Routes in Midlands for selected grade

From the lowest point of the crag, climb the centre of the wall, go leftwards round a bulge onto the terrace and exit up from here

Start in centre of wall and climb rightwards on good hidden hand holds to gain a terrace. Climb up the crack and then step left (avoid getting a bush in the face) to gain top.

Follow the shallow leftward-tending groove and step right to a peg runner. Pull over the overlap at its widest point and finish direct.

Start up Dead Heat crack. Trend left into deep groove and then rightwards onto ledge of Dead Good. Top out via groove 1m left of Dead Good groove.

The obvious steep, long crackline that rises up from directly above the cave. Start on the left wall and join the crack at about 4 metres, an alternative start can be made direct through the overhang at 5c but with no change in overall grade. Classic of the crag for mere mortals; i.e. those who won't lead a badly protected E3 like 'Live Evil!!'

The thin crackline to the right of Live Evil.

Climb the face between Little Job and Odd Job on it's right hand side. Eliminate cracks and bridging on the climbs either side for holds and gear placement. Use the two threads and some poor cam and nut placements for protection. Finish up final loose groove shared with Odd Job. Poorly protected but escapable.

The centre of the wall to the right. Pull up to the ledge and move steeply up left of the trees to the fine finishing wall. Allegedly there was an old peg but not visible in 2021. There is a thread runner on the top wall.

Pull through the low overhang with difficulty and continue on small holds to the first belay of Oak Tree Wall Direct. Finish as for Oak Tree Wall Direct.

A bold but escapable pitch. Start between Eliminate G and Oak Tree Wall Direct directly below a black streak. Make a powerful pull over the low overhang onto the slab and climb boldly straight up left side of black streak, to meet the traverse of Oak Tree Wall Direct. Continue up and diagonally right on positive but spaced holds before easier climbing leads straight to a long ledge. Finish up the slab and bulge to good nut belays on flat ledges.

Follow a narrow slab right to a steep flake. Move up and left via a hard rockover onto the slab. Take the right side of the slab to finish at a tree.

Start as for Direct Route but climb directly up through the bulges above on small sloping holds. A bold lead.

The short overhanging unprotected arete is climbed by big moves on good holds. Shortlived but very exposed!

A steep and direct line up the centre of the buttress. Start in the middle of the Fifty Foot Wall beneath short twin cracks.

1. 12m 5A - Forceful climbing up the steep wall via the cracks gains a belay.

2. 18m. Continue more easily up the short walls above to reach a belay on the ledge beneath the overhanging section of The Nose.

3. 24m 4C. The Nose Direct. The thin overhanging crack provides a strenuous climbing onto the slab above. Follow this to a ledge and then easier climbing up the clean rib leads to the top.

HVS 5a, 5a, 4c. This is the right arete of the obvious large, brown buttress behind the fence on the approach to cul de sac quarry. Start at a broken down fence and climb up and right on steep scarily loose rock to a steep scarily loose crack. Follow this more easily to a ledge and traverse right to belay by a detached block. Peg and friend belay. Traverse back left to a short steep groove which is climbed to an obvious ledge system. Traverse left above the void in a wild position (you guessed it, on scarily loose rock)to a brown groove. Climb this (more solid now) to a good nut and friend belay beneath a final overhang. Climb over the overhang to an easy but scarily loose, finish. A brilliant adventure in complete contrast to everything else here. Its in the West Mids rock guide at VS.

Scale the wall situated to the left of the cave. The bolts may occasionally be absent or unavailable.

Ascend directly from the point where Dream of White Horses, Not veers left.

A spiralling ascent of the Pinnacle, starting up Perambulator Parade. Gain the break in the hanging slab and traverse it to join the arête. Step up, gain the higher break on the front face and traverse this to join Baldstones Arête.

Start as for Baldstones Face. Cross the face diagonally to the arête. Step down onto the right wall and traverse off right.

The pleasantly technical wall on the far right.

The right-hand side of the wall utilises a useful pocket and a horizontal break though it is all over far too soon.

The fine airy flake corner in the right wall of great chimney. Gain it via either of the cracks below. Take big cams.

Crack School No. 6 in BMC Definitive Guidebook.

Crack School No. 4 in BMC Definitive Guidebook.

The crack 3m right of Browns Crack has a unique 'hands off' rest.

Excellent & varied jamming with good protection makes this a coveted route. Climb the crack for what will be the first of many times.

The amazing splitter crack through the roof on creaky flakes.

The awkward and oft-green groove is squirmed to a rounded exit. The route is not popular though, if you happen to find it dry, then jump aboard.

The fine delicate arete is not over endowed with gear and requires commitment and neat footwork. Start on the left, move onto the front face (wires) then press on and stay cool.

Direct start up the lower crack.

Immediately right of the nose

arête on L side

wall, undercuts

L of crack

slab R of crack

use anything

mantel hold at mid height

arête

R-L