Routes in Midlands for selected grade

Ascend the right-hand side of the arête, which has been up-graded due to the loss of some holds.

Enjoy the satisfying movements found between the breaks located just to the right of the thin crack of Little Weed.

Ascend directly up the steepest, most featureless section, avoiding both the large holds on the left and the good layaways on the right.

Begin seated and traverse along the crack until reaching a jug. Utilise it to shift your weight leftwards onto nice edges. Afterwards, transition back right to an elevated finish at the centre of the wall

The Groove, but finish by veering onto the left wall at the obvious crimps and then slapping the shelf to finish. Eliminate the sturdy square hold at the top of the groove

The three dimensional slug-trail on the wall round right.

The sit-start to Elephant's Ear has a burly arm-busting start.

From the right-hand end of the long elongated slot, climb straight up the steep wall by hard pulls on pebbles and desperate friction. The landing is hard.

The arete on its right-hand side and the high slab above.

Climb the rounded arete by laybacking to good gear and a though-provoking mantelshelf finish

Finger traverse left from the with increasing difficulty (V5 to here) and pull into the leaning corner with great difficulty. Once established, finish easily.

The slab is bold and precarious. A side-runner (placed on route) may stop you repeating the first ascensionist's bouncing trick but then the route is only really worth E4.

From the top of the flake on Licence to Run continue straight up to the hanging crack above past seeming blankness.

From the junction of Pincer and Guano Gully, rock up onto the slab, and continue direct via a sustained sequence.

Strange name, good route! The right side of the Elegy slab is at the limit of friction and the grade varies from E4 to E6 depending on how high you put the side runner in The Bulger. A wire in Elegy can also be used to reduce the swing potential.

Force a way into the hanging groove with great difficulty (and with overhead gear) then finish more easily through the shrubbery above.

Direct finish to Piece of Mind for those who find the easier/scarier rightward step to much to handle.

arête on R side

#mantel

#highball

sidewall past pocket

Sit-down start the steep wedge-shaped arete.

Gain the arete and cracks from powerful moves on the right wall.

Left of Puffed Up. Using the large obvious undercut and a couple hidden crimps from direct. Success or a potential back breaking landing awaits Please avoid using the obvious fragile bit of rock before the first rockover. Highball 7a+ and a potential modern classic.

Powerful moves up the sidewall lead to a harrowing exit.

Start on the right-hand jug of Tree-tastic, and head to the same top via a small sloping pocket to avoid the dyno. Grade a guess, and probably morpho!

#SD