Routes in Midlands for selected grade

P1, E6 6c the obvious white shield left of the bottom pitch of Blind faith. Climb up below the wall, arrange gear in the crack on the left, climb up and right via a peg using some very small crimps (avoiding the section out left) before going straight up to the ledge above. P2, E5/6 6a. From the ledge. Move out left and go up the loose groove to the sloping ledge above. Climb straight up via the hanging fang block, stuck wire, to a sloping shelf handhold, hidden peg round to the left in a groovelet, (rest round to the right) before steep moves lead up and left onto a perched slab and belay. P3, E4 5b, move up and left above the belay and arrange gear, before pulling straight up through the dry stone wall section. Above, step left to a shot hole with a crack (gear) before moving back up and right to finish straight up more easily. Possibly E7 for the full route.

This is a bolted line situated to the left of Saul's crack, featuring cemented-up breaks. Despite the altered nature of the breaks, the route still offers enjoyable and engaging moves.

Start as for Solitary Confinement, but ascend directly to the high finish, bypassing the good edges on the left side.

Start as for Solitary Confinement, use the jug to link and finish as for Prisoner of Azkaban

Ascend the wall veering left, starting from the middle sloping hold.

Decent holds lead to flatties then a hard dyno.

Traverse along the line of sloping holds, starting up the arete and finishing up Baldy. A hard alternative finish is up Throwball at f7B.

Horizontal offwidth crack.

The sloping arete and wall with a skin-trashing hold.

From a poor pocket, mantel onto the left side of the boulder. The mantel on its own is f6A+.

A direct start to A Fist Full of Crystals, avoiding the use of the right-hand side slab.

From the tip of the Valkyrie flake, climb the wall past some useful flakes to a finish up the left arete. Wild and very reachy.

The impressive left arête of the Hawkwing buttress.

The hanging lower arete just right of the Headless Horseman traverse is reached via a very hard traverse from the right to the enticing pockets and a lovely balancy move to stand up in them. The arete above is much easier. Good cams under the roof protect (back-rope useful) and a very poor cam in the right-hand pocket just about serves for the rest.

Continue direct up the bald slab above the start of Thin Air to a finish just right of Piece of Mind.

R of the steps to the Upper Tier

Sit start. 6B+ from stand.

Start as for Crossdresser, ascend directly via the right arête and a high sidepull. The large foothold on the right is in.

#SD