Gloucestershire Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Gloucestershire 870 routes in Region

Summary:

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Seasonality

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.759581, -2.478527

1.1. Haresfield Beacon 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.772338, -2.251681

1.2. Wye Valley 867 routes in Region

12 2 1 13 6 7 9 5 4 8 10 3

1 Biblins Cave 2 Symonds Yat 3 Wintour's Leap 4 Wynd cliff 5 Wyndcliff Quarry 6 Shorn cliff 7 Black Cliff Quarry 8 Dayhouse Quarry 9 Tintern Quarry 10 Ban-y-Gor 12 Huntsham Crags 13 Near Harkening Rock

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.759581, -2.663080

1.2.1. Biblins Cave 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.834330, -2.657438

summary

South west facing limestone roof. If any bats are spotted at the cave please report to crag moderator immediately and make sure to read the access details below! And have fun.

description

Only from May - September.

Access:

Park as for Doward Campsite car park. DO NOT DRIVE DOWN TO BIBLINS CAMPSITE, PARK AND WALK PAST GREEN BARIER.

DO NOT DRIVE PAST GREEN BARRIER. (Driving past the green barrier could stop ambulances from reaching Biblins Campsite which is very very bad!)

Walk downhill past a low green barrier and then straight into the woods. Go down past the quarry on the right, keep going down in till the main path goes off right, and you will see a slightly rocky path in front of you, follow this down until you reach some limestone "steps", scramble down and the cave will be on the left.

DO NOT VEAR FROM PATH OR REMOVE ANY VEGITATION!.

Natural England have been great to work with in unbanning the cave for bouldering here, however there are many RULES THAT MUST BE STUCK TO, or the cave will be banned again almost instantly.

Rules:

1.Bouldering only! No gear, no routes, no bolts, no top roping.

1. No removal of any vegetation no matter how minimal, with no exceptions what so ever. This is a nature conservation site and an SSSI (site of special scientific interest) so although a plant or tree may look ordinary, some of them are the only know locations in the country.

3.Only allowed to climb from May - September each year because of possible hibernating bats. There are no bats currently present in the cave but if you see any please report to crag moderator (James Squire) immediately.

1. Stick to the paths (see access details), no cutting corners or walking off on tangents. Try and avoid stepping on plants or ferns, or snapping twigs off trees.

2. Stick to the cave area and walls either side, as this is the only area unbanned, do not climb in Arthurs Cave which is a tourist attraction about 500m from this cave.

6.General bouldering rules e.g. don't drop litter etc. http://www.climbingworks.com/

1.2.2. Symonds Yat 127 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.839249, -2.636673

1.2.3. Wintour's Leap 249 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.662217, -2.664195

summary

Long limestone routes in a storied location

description

Wintour's leap has many long trad routes well worth a visit. The limestone here is sometimes loose and a tad dirty, but the routes are the longest you'll find anywhere near here. Some real classics exist.

access issues

There are multiple access issues, see UkC for current advice.

approach

Park near the old (sadly closed) pub in woodcroft. Currently scramble down the easy way is the prefered entry, check UkC for updates.

ethic

Trad, often with fixed pegs or threads. Some sport routes.

1.2.4. Wynd cliff 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.672562, -2.682923

summary

Nice crack lines with the best views in the wye valley

description

Wyndcliff is one of the smaller crags in the wye but very worthwhile. Strong lines from hs to e2 dominate with lots to do in the popular vs and hvs grades. Almost all lines are solid cracks

approach

From the lower wyndcliff carpark cross the road and head onto the wyndcliff walk. As soon as you can split right do so to find a path to the 300 stairs. Go up the stairs and path until the rocks become visible. Paths on the left and right of the main track go to the respective sides of the crag. If you hit the metal staircase, turn around you've gone too far.

ethic

Trad with some tatt and pitons

1.2.5. Wyndcliff Quarry 72 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.673190, -2.680908

summary

A very convenient beginner crag in the Wye valley, with short routes and generally easier grades. Mostly sport climbing.

description

The Wyndcliff quarry is one of the most popular beginner crags in the area and as such can attract a large crowd. Routes are often heavily bolted, very short and accessible to beginners, making this a safe and easy place to learn.

Not the most exciting crag in the area, but a nice easy day out.

access issues

Currently none. If there is limited parking at the base of the cliff, further parking exists 200m up the road.

approach

Approach is only by car. Drive to the Wye valley then follow the A446. The crag is roadside between Tintern and Chepstow. Currently you can park at the base of the cliff. It is obvious from the road and only 20m away.

where to stay

Many options exist for accomodation. This crag is close to residential and tourist areas.

ethic

Mostly sport climbing, with a few trad routes thrown in. Contact locals before equiping new or existing routes.

1.2.6. Shorn cliff 111 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.689277, -2.665828

1.2.7. Black Cliff Quarry 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.681241, -2.677371

1.2.8. Dayhouse Quarry 0 routes in Crag

1.2.9. Tintern Quarry 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.679352, -2.657993

1.2.10. Ban-y-Gor 205 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.670177, -2.659598

1.2.11. Cockshoot Quarry 0 routes in Crag

1.2.12. Huntsham Crags 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.846547, -2.636536

summary

10 minutes from the main road with a slight bush bash

description

Beautiful sandstone boulders on the border - what more could you want?!

access issues

November to March fully closed for deer season - any other times at the discretion of the farmer

1.2.13. Near Harkening Rock 0 routes in Crag