Routes in South-West England for selected grade

Stick clip the thread first? Then dyno from the stance at the back of the cave to the lip! F.A. done without pre-clipping the thread.

7c/7c+. Climb the easy opening sequence of 'Was It You’ to the thin break and natural peg and compose yourself for a direct assault up the holdless wall where the parent route wimps-out leftwards. At the thin horizontal seam make a ‘baby bouncer’ between the parent’s bolt and the peg on Tour de France. The final attack is made without any protection until the final bolt of the parent can be clipped, however a slightly safer option is to first, tenuously clip the peg on Tour de France with a long reach out right. Finish at the in-situ lower off.

Hard rockover onto heel hook and slopey nothings for hands. One poor peg protects.

Hard crimping passed pair of pegs, then scary upper section. Has been done ground up.

Very hard (and dirty) crimping past single ring bolt to top out of Slap Stick.

An eliminate up the lower wall between What About Me and Rancho Cucamonga. Start behind the budleia (if it's still there) and gain and pinch a poor sidepull. Placing the other foot on, dynamically gain an intermediate crimp and then go again out right for a bigger but dirty flat hold. Less positive holds above and to the right of this lead to a big move from a finger jug to the sanctuary of a niche and good wires. From the good break above (good hex and or cams) finish more direct to the left of Rancho, or to suit.

Left hand line past two pegs and a great dynamic move for a sloper.

Hard, just off vertical climbing up wall left of the groove. Peg in the belay stops you rolling down to the car park if you come off.

The right hand side of the Pathos arête. Start up the bulging arête as for Pathos and Academic. Follow Pathos onto the grassy ledge then step up and right back onto the arête, fix a Friend 3.5 in the shallow slot and stretch to clip the peg (new and good) on Pathos. From the cam slot leave Pathos via a long reach to a big sloper on the arête. Continue up the right hand side of the arête via a series of hard snatches between small holds to the sanctuary of a good flat hold. Fix the final protection if desired (a slider 1, which can be borrowed from the first ascensionist) and make the final easier moves to a large ledge. Continue up the arête to the lower off of Academic and Eros.

Style of FA – Headpoint (process started before the reinstallation of the Pathos peg)

Also worth noting that second ascensionist Martin Crocker, climbed an easier and slightly safer left hand variation. From the big sloper this moves up the left-hand side of the arête with feet on the Pathos slab. This is E5 6b.

Easy to first gear (peg) the hard 45 degree roof section and crux lurch over the lip protected by staples.

Bolt after crux is pulling in and out. No glue in bottom hole, is a staple bolt.

F7b+ climbing.

E7 without the bolt (A Smith June 2001). Follow Tunnel vision to start, then head up crimpy wall above (no side runners in 2B) to weird final rock over.

E7 without the bolt (F7a+ with)

F7c climbing.

Finger-searing on crystals right of 'The Arete' move quickly on.

Traverse right to left under Bitter and Twisted, following the diagonal crack. Finish on the big sidepull as you round the corner. New ring lower-offs installed 24.09.2020. as the left staple lower-off was loose.

1. 4b, 20m.

2. 5c, 20m.

3. 6c, 35m.

Climb Pink Ginsane direct without the traverse into Think Pink.

1. 5a, 25m.

2. 6c, 20m.

3. 6b, 18m.

A super direct between Bristol Diamond and FKD. Start as for FKD at the footledge. Take a hard direct line to a small side hold. Excellent small wires in the crack above. Make a hard rock up left onto a reasonable foothold and make tenuous moves to the fingerjug just below the peg on Bristol Diamond. Finishing up right of the crack.

Head up Black Snake Moan to the break, then make hard moves up in to Brean Topping and then to the top pocket of Chulilla, finish as for Chulilla

Starts under the roof on round boss low down on the left-hand-side of the prow. Shimmys under roof and ends on jugs on the face of right-hand-side.

Incredible ascent video of Anna Hazelnut on youtube

Adds some tough moves above the hard climbing on Avenged

Front face of buttress with desperate and height-dependant finale. Starts 3m to the right of the double bolt belay of "Too hot to touch". Pull through the starting roof, and climb to the thin break benath an overlap. Continue up to the next wide break, and navigate the final face to the pig tail lower off.

Reverse of the Porthole - from the low crimps make your way back through some hard moves and a big span to the porthole, finish up the obvious line

The greatest roof crack in the world-kletterblock.de reported