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Routes in Wye Valley for selected grade

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Symonds Yat Hollow Stone Area
S UKT:4a Golden Fleece Trad
Symonds Yat Long Stone Area
S UKT:4a Azoic Trad
VS UKT:4a GMT Trad
Symonds Yat Bowlers Hole Buttress Rectangular Bay
S UKT:4a Lethargy Trad 10m
S UKT:4a Bookworm Trad 10m
S UKT:4a Clptrap Trad 10m
Wintour's Leap
VD UKT:4a Corner Buttress Route 1

Four contrasting pitches split by good belay ledges. The difficulties on the second pitch are 'traditional' meaning probably harder than VDiff! Start at a tree at the base of a vertical corner that is at the beginning of The Easy Way Down.

  1. 23m. Climb the corner with a thin crack, and another couple of corners above it, to a huge flat ledge with various tree belays.

  2. 4a, 10m. Can be avoided on the right. Walk right to a well defined hand crack. Boulder up the fun wall and overlap just to its left and then the more technical polished groove in the next wall. Belay at a tree and cracks in the short wall above.

  3. 18m. The buttress above is climbed via an excellent crack just left of two small trees. Belay on good ledges above.

  4. 12m. Climb a thin hand crack up the centre of the final buttress just right of a tree. Belay at the top on flat ledges.

Trad 63m, 4
VD UKT:4a Corner Buttress Route 2

Like its near neighbour, there is lots of entertainment to be had on this route including some tough but avoidable moves on the third pitch and a fine arete on the fourth. Start at a corner 5m down and right of the beginning of The Easy Way Down.

  1. 10m. Climb the slightly earthy corner to ledges (on The Easy Way Down) and belay at a tree.

  2. 18m. Just to the right is a short rectangular section of rock, above which is a wide crack. Gain the wall right of the crack and climb it boldly to a ledge above the wide crack. Head up right of a tree to a corner and take this to a huge flat ledge. Walk right to belay at a 3m well-defined hand-crack.

  3. 4a, 10m. Nip up the hand-crack and then move over to below a short well-scratched finger-crack. Climb the crack - hard - and then easy ground to belay below a short slab just right of a tree.

  4. 18m. Climb the short slab and move up to under the blocky arete of the buttress above. The arete, started on its right-hand side, is excellent. Belay on good ledges above.

  5. 12m. The crack-line up the final buttress gives a fine finish. Belay at the very top of the crag on flat ledges.

Trad 64m, 4
S UKT:4a Direct Route (Severe Finish)

The Severe finish to the 'Direct Route' on the third pitch. Climb the steep wall behind the belay for 15m.

Trad 60m, 3
S UKT:4a Terry's Left Hand Finish
Trad
VD UKT:4a Bottle Buttress

Nice route with meandering traverses.

Trad 80m, 4
S UKT:4a Central Rib Route 1
1 S 4a 24m
2 S 4a 12m
3 S 12m
4 S 4a 15m

Tree belay at end of 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Peg, nut and stake belay at end of 2nd pitch. The second pitch is the standout. Beware the polish.

Trad 63m, 4
Wynd cliff
S UKT:4a Monsoon
Trad
S UKT:4a Syrphus
Trad
S UKT:4a Expo
Trad
HS UKT:4a Green Symphony
Trad
VS UKT:4a Brown Coda
Trad

Showing all 17 routes.

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