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Balgone Heughs All Sport climbing 35 routes in crag

  • Grade context: UK
35
FR
5c6a+6b+6c+7a+7b+

Description

Bolted routes along a 15m high outcrop in a sheltered setting, only 25 minutes walk from North Berwick Law. bolts replaced on the majority of existing lines with 12mm glue ins and many new lines added Autumn 2013. More new lines added 2021/22.

Approach

(56.039698, -2.694459)

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Pooh Buttress Back to contents

20m left of the head of the approach path, up and left past the bird-feeder barrel is a short, slightly hidden buttress.

2
{FR} 6b+ Poo Sport 8m
3
{FR} 6c Piglet Sport 8m

Left Hand Buttress Back to contents

5
{FR} 6c The Guns of Balgone Sport 10m
6
{FR} 7a+ ★ Heuthanasia Sport 13m
7
{FR} 6c ★ Heugh Know Nothing (Jon Snow) Sport 15m
8
{FR} 7a The Entheughsiast Sport 17m
9
{FR} 7a+ ★★★ Statement of Heuth Sport 15m
10
{FR} 7a ★ Heugh and Cry Sport 15m
11
{FR} 6b+ Resination Sport 12m
12
{FR} 7b Knee Barred Sport 15m
13
{FR} 6a+ Resin D'etre Sport 15m

Overhang Buttress Back to contents

15
{FR} 6c+ Rumble in the Crumble Sport 12m

Central line on the buttress with a technical lower wall leading to a powerful finish. Beware the crumble.

16
{FR} 6b Freakin' with the Creakin' Sport 12m

Clip the first bolt of Rumble and climb up and right to a delicate exit at the right end of the roof.

17
{FR} 6c+ Eekin' out the Creakin' Sport 10m

Climb Freakin’ to the 3rd bolt then direct over roof.

Hinge Buttress Back to contents

19
{FR} 6b+ ★ The Wanderer Sport 17m
20
{FR} 7a+ Clementina Sport 17m

An eliminate line between The Wanderer and Jungle Boogie. Pull through the first bulge using the obvious side pull (crux) and tackle the second bulge head-on, without escaping left onto The Wanderer.

21
{FR} 7a Jungle Boogie Sport 17m

Right Hand Buttress Back to contents

23
{FR} 6a+ I.V. Line Sport 10m
24
{FR} 5c Ivy Wall Sport 15m
25
{FR} 6a The Curling Pond Sport 15m
26
{FR} 7a ★ Sting in the Tail Sport 15m
27
{FR} 6c Epoxia Sport 15m
28
{FR} 6c The Wasp Direct Sport 15m
29
{FR} 6b The Wasp Sport 15m
30
{FR} 6a+ ★ Pheasant Corner Sport 15m
31
{FR} 7a+ ★ Bloodsport Sport 15m
32
{FR} 7a+ ★ The Killing Fields Sport 15m
33
{FR} 7b ★ Get orf my Laaand Sport 15m
34
{FR} 7b+ ★ Go Ape Sport 15m
35
{FR} 6c+ ★ Mr Fox Sport 15m
36
{FR} 6c+ ★★★ Heughvenile Antics Sport 16m
37
{FR} 7b ★ Glueorious Twelth Sport 20m
38
{FR} 7a+ Walk on by Sport 15m
39
{FR} 6c ★ Bullrush Sport 15m
40
{FR} 7b+ ★ The Beast of Balgone Sport 15m

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Scottish Sport Climbs Guidebook

Author(s): Andy Nisbet

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9781907233159

A comprehensive sport climbing guidebook for Scotland, including 3 dry tooling areas, describing over 1,300 routes across a wide range of grades from F3 to F9a.

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Mon 29 May
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