A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Ed MANU Daniel Mateos Gavin Hywel Rowlands Christoph Rauch Ben Meyrick Cualann Curon Joel M Matt Tranter
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Cardiff and Newport crags
773 in Area
-
1.1.
Dinas Rock 229 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Lower River 7 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Car Park 6 in Sector
- 1.1.3. Cheesy Rider Area / Road Side 45 in Crag
-
1.1.4.
Kennelgarth Wall 60 in Sector
- 1.1.4.1. Routes 8 in Area
- 1.1.4.2. Bouldering 52 in Area
- 1.1.5. Lower Cave Area 10 in Sector
-
1.1.6.
The Main Crag 77 in Sector
- 1.1.6.1. Routes 57 in Area
- 1.1.6.2. Bouldering 20 in Area
- 1.1.7. Regulation Wall 11 in Sector
- 1.1.8. River Blocs 13 in Sector
-
1.2.
Gilwern 243 in Area
- 1.2.1. Gilwern East 43 in Cliff
- 1.2.2. The Secret Gallery 5 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Gilwern-In-The-Woods 18 in Sector
-
1.2.4.
Tyla Quarry Upper 21 in Sector
- 1.2.4.1. The Cave Sector 12 in Sector
- 1.2.4.2. The Arête Sector 5 in Area
- 1.2.4.3. The Wall Sector 4 in Area
-
1.2.5.
Tyla Quarry Lower 25 in Sector
- 1.2.5.1. Entrance Wall 6 in Sector
- 1.2.5.2. Main Area 19 in Sector
- 1.2.6. Topdeckio 10 in Sector
- 1.2.7. Pear Buttress 10 in Sector
- 1.2.8. Main Wall 26 in Sector
- 1.2.9. The lookout Conning Tower 4 in Sector
- 1.2.10. Hindu Kush Area 20 in Sector
-
1.2.11.
Gilwern Lower - Gilwern West 61 in Sector
- 1.2.11.1. Tyre Sector 34 in Sector
- 1.2.11.2. Ivor Big gun Sector 5 in Sector
- 1.2.11.3. Gilwern Motor Museum 10 in Sector
- 1.2.11.4. Alpine Ridge Sector 7 in Sector
- 1.2.11.5. Finale Wall 5 in Sector
-
1.3.
Llangattock 7 in Area
- 1.3.1. The Lonely Shepherd Boulder 7 in Area
-
1.4.
The Valleys Sandstone 69 in Area
- 1.4.1. The Gap 50 in Crag
-
1.4.2.
Goitre Coed 5 in Area
- 1.4.2.1. Crapstone Villa 2 in Boulder
- 1.4.2.2. Plantation boulders 3 in Boulder
-
1.4.3.
Sirhowy 5 in Crag
- 1.4.3.1. The Rust Curtain 0 in Sector
- 1.4.3.2. The Dust Curtain 0 in Sector
- 1.4.3.3. Western Wall 0 in Sector
- 1.4.3.4. Upper Tier 5 in Sector
- 1.4.4. Navigation Quarry 6 in Area
- 1.4.5. Glynfach 3 in Area
-
1.5.
Llanbradach Quarry 36 in Crag
- 1.5.1. Upper Tier Left 17 in Sector
- 1.5.2. Upper Tier Right 19 in Sector
- 1.5.3. Luxury Walls 0 in Sector
- 1.5.4. Sinister Walls 0 in Sector
- 1.5.5. Cascade Walls 0 in Sector
- 1.5.6. Expansionist Walls 0 in Sector
- 1.5.7. Western Walls 0 in Sector
-
1.6.
Morlais Quarries 47 in Crag
- 1.6.1. Lower Tier 0 in Cliff
-
1.6.2.
Middle Tier 47 in Cliff
- 1.6.2.1. Great Wall 18 in Sector
- 1.6.2.2. The Ramparts 3 in Crag
- 1.6.2.3. Castle Bay 7 in Crag
- 1.6.2.4. Windy Wall 19 in Sector
- 1.6.3. Upper Tier 0 in Cliff
-
1.7.
Taff's Well Area 74 in Crag
-
1.7.1.
Pinnacle 13 in Crag
- 1.7.1.1. Back Wall 3 in Area
- 1.7.2. Calcite Wall 21 in Unknown
- 1.7.3. Lower Wall 23 in Unknown
- 1.7.4. Upper Wall 0 in Unknown
- 1.7.5. Castell Coch / Castle Quarry 17 in Crag
- 1.7.6. Taffs Well West 0 in Unknown
- 1.7.7. The Slabs (West) 0 in Unknown
-
1.7.1.
Pinnacle 13 in Crag
-
1.8.
Tirpentwys 31 in Crag
- 1.8.1. The Left Wall 4 in Sector
- 1.8.2. Main Wall 20 in Sector
- 1.8.3. Right Wall 7 in Sector
-
1.9.
Witches Point and Temple Bay 37 in Area
- 1.9.1. Ogmore 6 in Crag
- 1.9.2. Witches Point 22 in Crag
- 1.9.3. Temple Bay 0 in Crag
- 1.9.4. Castle Upon Alun 4 in Crag
-
1.9.5.
Ogmore Coastal Boulders 5 in Area
- 1.9.5.1. Conglomerate Area 5 in Area
- 1.10. Inland S E Wales 0 in Crag
- 1.11. Other Limestone Crags 0 in Area
- 1.12. Boulders 0 in Gym
- 1.13. Roc-Bloc 0 in Gym
- 1.14. Rock UK - Summit Centre 0 in Gym
- 1.15. Drumau Road 58 in Crag
- 1.16. Neath Abbey Quarry 149 in Crag
- 1.17. Dyffryn 47 in Crag
- 1.18. Craig y Pal / Glais 26 in Crag
- 1.19. Craig Cwm 64 in Crag
- 1.20. Cilfrew Edge 105 in Crag
-
1.1.
Dinas Rock 229 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Cardiff and Newport crags 773 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.632876, -3.493216
summary
A collection of disparate crags scattered around the Cardiff and Newport areas.
1.1. Dinas Rock 229 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.761073, -3.572569
description
A brilliant crag with some of the best climbing in SE Wales: mostly single-pitch routes upto 30m. Often steep, smooth face climbing; harder routes may need dusting off. Most of the routes are now sports routes. Also, some of the hardest bouldering in Wales.
approach
Take the A465 and Glyn Neath Rd (via B4242) to Pont Nedd Fechan. An unclassed road then follows the Afon Sychryd river upstream to a sharp R at a bridge, to car park.Climbers are asked to avoid parking in the residents parking areas on the apporach road, and wherever possible consider sharing transport to minimise the number of cars required. Take the track to the L from the car park for the main face, and continue up this track, over the hill and fork right, then right at the river to get to the main cliff.
For the roadside crags and Kennelgarth, take the right fork. It is also possible to reach the upper crags by scrambling up from the river at this point.
1.1.1. Lower River 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 51.759286, -3.578858
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
All Aboard
Down river from Boatman, is a dirty and muddy looking wall. Start on the low jug right of Lichen Up. Make a big move to a triangle slot and sharp sidepull, move up till tenuous last move of a poor gaston to a dirty jug. Looks pretty grim but after a bit of cleaning should be a worth wile problem. FA: Morgan Preece, 2013 | {FB} 6C+ | ||||
2 |
Lichen Up
Down river from Boatman, is a dirty and muddy looking wall. Start low on the obvious mini-prow. Do a few compression moves before heading right onto the face finishing up the centre via an undercut. Finish matching the obvious large spike. FA: Morgan Preece, 2013 | {FB} 6C+ | ||||
3 |
The Boatman's Traverse
Start left of the Boatman cave on good holds, traverse right on crimps to the jug. FA: David Cover, 2013 | {FB} 6A+ | ||||
4 |
★★ The Boatman
Follow the river downstream behind the car park, past the changing area, to find a small cave on the right side. Sit start on the left of the cave, with a crimp and an undercut, finish on the good jug. FA: David Cover, 2013 | {FB} 7B | ||||
5 |
★ Captain Jack
Left of the boatman from a left hand gaston right hand undercut climb straight up tp join boatman trav at its half way point beta includes a wicked knee bar. Finish as for the boatman. FA: Liam Fyfe, 2013 | {FB} 6C+ | ||||
6 |
★ Boatman Start
Start as for boatman then left hand pinch come into sidepull next to it and make a powerful move into captain jack. Finish as for this FA: Liam Fyfe, 2013 | {FB} 7A | ||||
7 |
★ Fyfes Traverse
Start on jugs of boatman trav, instead of staying high drop right hand back to cap jack start holds and reverse boatman start to gain left hand pinch at start of boatman continue up this to finish. FA: Liam Fyfe, 2013 | {FB} 7B+ |
1.1.2. Car Park 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 51.759555, -3.578281
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Splinch
In the car park pretty much opposite the bench is a wall with an obvious ramp feature. left of the ramp sit start and gain obvious pinch and either fire or gain a intermediate topout FA: Liam Fyfe, 2009 | {FB} 4 | 3m | |||
2 |
★ The Ramp
The obvious ramp feature sit start and follow to end topout. FA: Simon Rawlinson, 2009 | {FB} 6A | 2m | |||
3 |
★ Rampless
Just right of where the ramp is a small wall. Pull through the small crimps in the face from a sit FA: Liam Fyfe, 2012 | {FB} 6C | 2m | |||
4 |
★ Railed
Start in middle of the last wall in the car park. Pull left to gain the obvious rail topout FA: Liam Fyfe, 2009 | {FB} 6A+ | ||||
5 |
★ Car Park Original
Climb the middle of the last wall in the carpark direct on good holds topout. FA: Jamie Bowden, 2008 | {FB} 5+ | ||||
6 |
★ Halfway
Just inside the fence is a clean wall. Climb and topout from obvious halfway holds. The sitter is a project and will be nails. FA: Liam Fyfe, 2009 | {FB} 6B | 3m |
1.1.3. Cheesy Rider Area / Road Side 45 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.759155, -3.577045
description
Morning sunshine and afternoon shade. Very sheltered area. Mixed grades on limestone and short walk in.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Evening Wall | VD | ||||||
2 | Flake Wall | HD 4a | ||||||
3 | Slickenside | E2 5c | ||||||
4 | Frizzy Bits | E2 5c | ||||||
5 | Jeepers Creepers | HVS 5a | ||||||
6 | Sense of Humour | E2 5c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
Fromage Frais
FA: Roy Thomas & Gary Gibson, 1998 | 5c | 15m | |||||
8 |
★★ Rob Roy
FA: Stephan Doerr, 1995 | 7a | 15m | |||||
9 |
★★ Cheesy Rider
FA: Roy Thomas & Gary Gibson, 1995 | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
10 |
★ Creme De Roquefort
FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 2009 | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
11 |
Creme de Rockfall
FA: Roy Thomas & Gary Gibson, 2009 | 6b+ | 10m | |||||
12 |
Scraping The Barrel
FA: Roy Thomas & Gary Gibson, 1995 | 5+ | 10m | |||||
13 |
Tapping The Keg
Succumbing to the ivy. FA: Roy Thomas, 1998 | 6a | 10m | |||||
14 |
Pinheads
Now under the cover of ivy... FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1998 | 6c | 10m | |||||
15 |
★★ Skin Ed
FA: Gary Gibson, 1997 | 7c | 15m | |||||
16 |
★ The Inflated Roundhead
FA: Martin Crocker & Roy Thomas, 1988 FA: Gary Gibson, 1997 | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
17 |
★★ Charlie's Rusks
Old school bolting. Has its own lower off trending left up the shallow scoop. Doesn't share the anchor with 'The Deflated Dickhead' FA: Gary Gibson, 1997 | 6c | 20m, 4 | |||||
18 | The Deflated Dick-Head | 6b | ||||||
19 | ★ Mr Potato Head | {FR} 6a+ | ||||||
20 | Pot Head | {FR} 5+ | ||||||
21 | The Dumbfounded Dunderhead | {FR} 6b | 10m | |||||
22 |
★ Smeghead
Rippled rock start | {FR} 4c | 10m | |||||
23 | Bonehead | {FR} 5b | 10m | |||||
24 | ★ The Democratic Republic of Maesteg | {FR} 6a | 10m | |||||
25 |
Connect One
First climb on next sector of rock. | {FR} 6a | 10m | |||||
26 | Southwest Guru | {FR} 6b | 10m | |||||
27 | ★ Deadly Nightshade | {FR} 6c | 10m | |||||
28 | Screaming Lampshades | {FR} 6c+ | 10m | |||||
29 |
Big Ears Takes Flight
Line left side of shallow cave. | {FR} 6b+ | 10m | |||||
30 |
★ The Wake
Line right side of shallow cave. | {FR} 6b+ | 10m | |||||
31 | ★ Bob’s Birthday Party | {FR} 6b+ | 10m | |||||
32 | ★ Cujo | {FR} 6c | 10m | |||||
33 |
★ Thinner
First line on this sector after the ivy. Left variation at the top of Running Man. | {FR} 7a | 12m | |||||
34 | ★ The Running Man | {FR} 7a | 12m | |||||
35 |
★ Miss Alto
Slab into the steep hanging corner. | {FR} 6b | 14m | |||||
36 |
For the Love of Ivy
Left leaning corner that crosses the line of Miss Alto. | HVS 5a | 14m | |||||
37 |
★ The Regulators
Left Variant finish to The De Regulators along a hanging arete. | {FR} 7c | 14m | |||||
38 | ★ The De Regulators | {FR} 7a+ | 14m | |||||
39 |
★ Beware of Poachers
Right Variant finish to The De Regulators | {FR} 6c+ | 14m | |||||
40 | ★ Open Roads | {FR} 6b+ | 14m | |||||
41 | ★ Squash the Squaddie | {FR} 6b+ | 14m | |||||
42 | ★ Thousand Yard Stare | {FR} 6c+ | 14m | |||||
43 | ★ Pugsley | {FR} 7a | 14m | |||||
44 | ★ Munsterosity | {FR} 7a+ | 14m | |||||
45 |
Morticia
Right most route in this sector. | {FR} 7a | 10m |
1.1.4. Kennelgarth Wall 60 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
1.1.4.1. Routes 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Technitis | {FR} 6c | ||||
2 | By Proxy | {FR} 7a | ||||
3 | Out Come The Freaks | {FR} 7a+ | ||||
4 | ★★ Fings Ain't What They Used To Be | {FR} 7b | ||||
5 | ★ Kennelgarth | {FR} 7b | ||||
6 | Siberian Husky | {FR} 7b+ | ||||
7 | Tufa | {FR} 8a+ | ||||
8 | Eugene's High Point | {FR} 7b+ |
1.1.4.2. Bouldering 52 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.1.5. Lower Cave Area 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Sangreal | {FR} 7b+ | ||||
2 | ★★ Watchmen | {FR} 7b | ||||
3 | ★★★ Rose-Line | {FR} 7b+ | ||||
4 | ★★★ Smashed Rat | {FR} 7c | ||||
5 | ★ Strider Direct | HVS 5a | ||||
6 | ★★ Sangria Finish | {FR} 7b+ | ||||
7 | ★★★ Rat On A Hot Tin Roof | {FR} 7b | ||||
8 | ★★ Basilica | {FR} 7b+ | ||||
9 | ★ The Dandelion Slab | {FR} 7a | ||||
10 | The First Step To Enlightenment | {FR} 5 |
1.1.6. The Main Crag 77 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing
1.1.6.1. Routes 57 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.1.6.2. Bouldering 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Dog Nut | {FB} 6C | ||||
2 | Return of the Midgets | {FB} 4+ | ||||
3 | Saturday Shuffle | {FB} 5 | ||||
4 | Roof Warrior | {FB} 5+ | ||||
5 | Tiny Hands | {FB} 6A | ||||
6 | ★ Goodbye Gary Goodtimes | {FB} 7A | ||||
7 | ★ Rampant Rabbit Return | {FB} 6C+ | ||||
8 | ★ Awesome Shed | {FB} 7B+ | ||||
9 | ★ Awesome Shed Direct | {FB} 7B+ | ||||
10 | ★★★ Mega Ten | {FB} 7C+ | ||||
11 | ★★ Boy Racer | {FB} 7C | ||||
12 | ★★★ Jet Blue | {FB} 7C | ||||
13 | ★★★ Butch Cassidy | {FB} 8A | ||||
14 | ★★ Jed Black | {FB} 8A+ | ||||
15 | ★ Berlin Sit Start | {FB} 6C+ | ||||
16 | ★★ How Soon Is Now | {FB} 7B | ||||
17 | Kim Jong | {FB} 6B | ||||
18 | The Sharp Cereal Confessor | {FB} 6B | ||||
19 | The Origin | {FB} 8B+ | ||||
20 |
The Origin sit
It’s powerful limestone climbing in bad holds and awkward positions. FA: Eliot Stephens, Apr 2021 | {FB} 8C |
1.1.7. Regulation Wall 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Rocknrolla | {FB} 6A | ||||
2 | ★★ Rocknrolla (Sit start) | {FB} 6C | ||||
3 | Slippy Slab | {FB} 6A | ||||
4 | Gay and Grey | {FB} 6A | ||||
5 | Rock Out | {FB} 4 | ||||
6 | 1 Inch Punch | {FB} 6A+ | ||||
7 | Boba Fet Touched my Wang | {FB} 6A+ | ||||
8 | Simon's Traverse | {FB} 6C | ||||
9 | Simons 'full' Traverse | {FB} 7B+ | ||||
10 | Green Room | {FB} 6B+ | ||||
11 | The Prow | {FB} 6A |
1.1.8. River Blocs 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Goonies Arete | {FB} 6A+ | ||||
2 | Green Fingers | {FB} 5+ | ||||
3 | Devolution | {FB} 4+ | ||||
4 | Solution Traverse | {FB} 5+ | ||||
5 | Pollution | {FB} 6A | ||||
6 | ★ Pauls Arete | {FB} 6C | ||||
7 | Gut Lord | {FB} 6A | ||||
8 | Pauls Problem | {FB} 6C | ||||
9 | ★★★ Evolution | {FB} 7A+ | ||||
10 | ★ Revolution | {FB} 6C | ||||
11 | ★★ Illiminution | {FB} 7A | ||||
12 | ★ Oh Heavan | {FB} 5 | ||||
13 | ★ Shangri-La | {FB} 6A |
1.2. Gilwern 243 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.808249, -3.101885
approach
20 mins
1.2.1. Gilwern East 43 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.804119, -3.092177
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Side Wind Her
Corner to top back diagonally right. Lower off. | S 4a | 10m | |||
2 |
Blossom
Climbs just right of the corner to top LO. Outside of fence next to severe 4a. | 6b | 10m | |||
3 | Bring out the Crimp | 6a+ | ||||
4 | ★ All the Pies Arête | 6b+ | ||||
5 | Cheapskate | 6b+ | ||||
6 | ★★ Black Night's Rein | 6a | ||||
7 | The Grey Wall | 6a+ | ||||
8 | ★ Black Night's Rein Direct Start | 6b | ||||
9 | The Slytherin (Easy Version) | 6c | ||||
10 | The Slytherin | 7a | ||||
11 | ★ Microwaves | 6c | 15m | |||
12 |
★★ Fergie's Folly
FA: Peter Blackburn | 6b | 15m | |||
13 |
Thorn in my Side
A trad climb. Steep bold moves lead to steadier climbing where the rock needs care. | E2 | ||||
14 | Quakering | 6c | ||||
15 | Mr Softy | 6a+ | ||||
16 | Pearlescence | 6b+ | ||||
17 | ★ Tallulah Dream | 6b+ | ||||
18 | In the Groove | 6c | ||||
19 | One Step Beyond | 6b | ||||
20 | Reach for a Peach | 6b+ | ||||
21 |
What's the Craic
A trad climb. Ascend the chimney and crack. Difficult to protect until the crux, where a good nut placement protects the steep pull up the finishing crack. | E2 | ||||
22 | ★ Petering Out | 6b | ||||
23 | ★ The Golden Tower | 6c | ||||
24 |
★★★ Half Pipe Dream
A great line that is ruined slightly by the somewhat chossy and dubious looking finish. FA: Paul Tucker & Pete Blackburn, 2012 | 6c | 20m | |||
25 | ★★★ Magic Carpet | 6b | ||||
26 | ★★ Original Start (Life on Planet Earth) | 6c | ||||
27 | Life on Planet Earth | 6b+ | ||||
28 | ★★ The Plumb | 5b | ||||
29 | Asteroids | 5a | ||||
30 | Scorpion | 6a+ | ||||
31 | Thug Life | 6c | ||||
32 | Garden of Eden | 6a+ | ||||
33 | ★ Superposition | 7a | ||||
34 |
★★★ Sidewinder
15/08/18 - The bolts have been stripped. The route is likely to be doomed to the usual obscurity. | 6b+ | ||||
35 | Firepower | 7a+ | ||||
36 |
Crackatoa
A trad route. Climb the twin cracks with adequate protection to a hard move or two to reach a ledge. | E2 | ||||
37 | ★ Talking Hands | 6b+ | ||||
38 | ★ Hand in Pocket | 6b | ||||
39 | ★ Inch Pinch | 6b+ | ||||
40 | The Imp | 7a+ | ||||
41 | ★ Dolphin Snoggin' | 6a | ||||
42 | Periscope | HVS | ||||
43 | ★ The Plumb Direct | 6a |
1.2.2. The Secret Gallery 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | A Sip Full Of Sap | 5b | 12m | |||
2 |
Mysteries Of The Kingdom
Steep wall to left of rock scar. | 6c | 14m | |||
3 |
Profound And Hidden
Up to thin high crack finish | 6c | 14m | |||
4 | Darkness Into Light | 6c | 14m | |||
5 | Sap Is Rising | 5c |
1.2.3. Gilwern-In-The-Woods 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Orange Blorenge Blancmange
1st lefthand route to the top. | 6a | 14m | |||
2 |
The Welsh Are Coming
Takes roof then right | 6b | ||||
3 | ★★ Vanity Of Small Differences | 6c | ||||
4 | ★ Crimpa-Lean Sheet | 7b+ | ||||
5 | ★ Mystery Rawl Wall | 7a | 13m | |||
6 |
★★ The Two Hundred Year Echo
hard start | 6a+ | 13m | |||
7 | ★★★ God Bless Asia Bibi | 7a+ | 13m | |||
8 | ★ Throw In The Kitchen Towel | 6c | 14m | |||
9 | The Woodsman | 7a | 14m | |||
10 | ★ Iron To Defeat Napoleon | 6a+ | 10m | |||
11 |
The White Stuff Left-hand
Keep to the left of the bolt line of The White Stuff | 6b+ | 10m | |||
12 | ★ The White Stuff | 5c | ||||
13 | Rompa Stompa | 6b | 12m | |||
14 |
★★ Book End Rib
Climb a hard rib to start | 6b+ | 10m | |||
15 | Bristol Viking Raider | 5b | 12m | |||
16 | The Remains Of The Day | 6a | 7m | |||
17 | The Sweetest Flight | 5c | 7m | |||
18 | The Stoned Ape Hypothesis | VS 5a | 7m |
1.2.4. Tyla Quarry Upper 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.2.4.1. The Cave Sector 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Put Your Back Into It | 5b | 13m | |||
2 | ★ Don't Laugh At My Scone | 5a | 14m | |||
3 | The Great Satan | 5b | 13m | |||
4 | Pretty Picture Book | 5b | 13m | |||
5 |
★ Purple Sue
To the right of Pretty Picture Book: climb the left edge of the square-cut cave then track diagonally rightward above the cave to end at a perched ledge. Well bolted - six bolts and ring anchors. | 5a | 15m | |||
6 |
Tyla Death Us Do Party
Start 6 m right of the square cave at the mid level. Climb the niche 3 m and move left above the block (direct is very hard) towards the cave. Climb the easiest line of least resistance on large flakes blocks and edges to the mud bank finish (8m). Dubious rock, mud and dubious spaced gear. Caution possibly serious. NB. The first section has been retro bolted. | E2 5c | 14m | |||
7 | Remember To Breathe | 6b+ | 13m | |||
8 | Chill To The Bone | 6b | ||||
9 | Hot To The Touch | 6c | 13m | |||
10 |
All In For The Draws
To the right of Hot To The Touch: Pull over the initial bulge (crux) then proceed amiably up and right to finish as for Fromage Not Farage. An awkward start that might prove tricky for the elderly. Well bolted - six bolts and shared ring anchors. | 4c | 11m | |||
11 | Fromage Not Farage | 3c | 10m | |||
12 | Dodgy Foot Syndrome | 4a | 10m |
1.2.4.2. The Arête Sector 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Seeking Sunshine | 6a | 11m | |||
2 |
The Pervasive Grey
The undercut arete started at Seeking Sunshine. | 6a | 12m | |||
3 | When Will You Dry? | 5b | 13m | |||
4 |
Mass Civil Disobedience Or Mass Extinction
Shares a lower off with "Watch Out, Watch Out…" | 5b | 10m | |||
5 |
Watch Out, Watch Out, The Wiki Wonkers Are About
Start in corner, up the wall above direct. Clipping the anchor (crux) | 5c | 10m |
1.2.4.3. The Wall Sector 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
There Is A Renaissance Man In Toulouse
Caution is advised. The obvious grey groove with some unstable rock. | 5a | 15m | |||
2 |
★ The Tremenal Tremors
The flake and leaning wall. Harder at the start and approaching the anchor | 5c | 15m | |||
3 |
★ Pan narrans
Follow the clean face, with the mid-height breaks | 6b | 16m | |||
4 |
★ (d) rock
Trend right of the initial overhang, then continue up the bare looking section | 6a+ | 16m |
1.2.5. Tyla Quarry Lower 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.2.5.1. Entrance Wall 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bhaktapur
Bolts chopped as of 11.7.20 Bolts replaced August 2020. | 4b | 9m | |||
2 |
Lo Manthang
Bolts chopped as of 11.7.20 Bolts replaced August 2020 | 5c | 8m | |||
3 |
Back From The Berbers
Bolts chopped as of 11.7.20 Bolts replaced August 2020 | 4a | 10m | |||
4 |
Evening Class
Bolts chopped as of 11.7.20 Bolts replaced August 2020 | 6a+ | 8m | |||
5 |
Musical Groove
Bolts chopped as of 11.7.20 Bolts replaced August 2020 | 6a | 8m | |||
6 | Twats | VS 4b | 12m |
1.2.5.2. Main Area 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Riding Bareback
Between Entrance Wall and the left end of the Main Area, on the east wall. The left route | 4b | 10m | |||
2 | Riding Horseless | 3a | 10m | |||
3 |
Lost Credentials
Climb up ledges | 4a | 11m | |||
4 |
★ No Credentials
Keep to the rib | 5a | 11m | |||
5 | Take The Mantle | 5c | 9m | |||
6 |
★ A Lovely Day
A travelling route, starting as per "Take The Mantle" moving right into the groove, and finishing on "Plus One" | 5a | 12m | |||
7 |
Plus One
The smooth wall, and a rock up on the left. Finish easily | 5b | 11m | |||
8 |
★ Dry-line
A more direct partner of "Plus One" | 5b | 11m | |||
9 |
Out Of Bulk
A direct line. Questionable anchor. 10mm non-stainless bolts | 4a | 11m | |||
10 |
My Timeline
Starting from the grassy ledge, and sharing an anchor with "My Naughty Valentine". 10mm non-stainless bolts. | 5c | 11m | |||
11 |
★ My Naughty Valentine
Trend left from half-height | 5c | 12m | |||
12 |
Timeliness
10mm non-stainless bolts. | 5b | 12m | |||
13 |
The Tumble
Up and around. spiral up rib. | 6a | 9m | |||
14 |
★ The Tumble (alternative)
Keeping right of the rib above the holes. | 6a+ | 9m | |||
15 |
Your Dinner Is Ruined
Questionable rock. Caution. Keep close to the bolts. | 5b | 10m | |||
16 | Too Hot In Chang Mai | 4a | ||||
17 | Quarry Goggles | 5b | 10m | |||
18 |
Saving Obscurity
Needs cleaning. 10mm non-stainless bolts | 5c | 10m | |||
19 |
Lost Obscurity
Needs a lot more cleaning. 10mm non-stainless bolts. First and third bolts are krab-breakers. | 5c | 10m |
1.2.6. Topdeckio 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
A small quarried amphitheatre left of Pear Buttress and at a higher level, rimmed with gorse, with a pleasant grassy base, and a nice outlook. Some bouldering potential and one or two higher bits of rock. The crag is roughly rectangular, with narrow side walls and a longer back wall. There are currently four trad mini-routes on the right hand side of the back wall, centred around a short crack leading to a groove which bears leftwards past a high prow. Three more routes lie above a short grass slope on the small, right-hand, East-facing side wall. At the time of writing (Oct 2017) wooden stakes are in place upslope from the top of the climbs. These come with no guarantees!
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Rooter
Towards the R end of the long back wall, 2m left of Human. Nothing to write home about. Scooped slab to scrappy ledges and a short wall. Easy but unprotected first half. | VD | 10m | |||
2 |
Human
Short wide crack and left-trending groove, left of an arete. | VD | 10m | |||
3 |
Leaf-eater
Start as for Human and make one move up the wide crack; then step left and climb the arete. Quite good. | S 4a | 10m | |||
4 |
Shouter
The groove and short wall a few metres right of the arete of Leaf-eater. | VD | 10m | |||
5 |
Warmaker
No gear worth the mention! Start 3m right of the groove of Shouter, and climb a vague, blunt arete (good side-pull slot on right) to a small overhang. Avoiding suspect stacked blocks on the right, pull through the overhang to a ledge. Stake belays above the slope. | E3 5b | 7m | |||
6 |
Planter
The left-hand side of the small E-facing wall which forms the R wing of the quarry. | HS 4a | 10m | |||
7 |
Glass
The middle of the wall, starting up a short, wide crack. Finish direct. | S 4a | 10m | |||
8 |
Mandachuva
Start as for Glass, and place a nut in the top of the wide crack; then step right and climb the right-hand side of the small wall. Boldish start, even with the side runner. | VS 4b | 10m | |||
9 |
Aweary Two Front Teeth Man
The crack between the two walls and arete above | S 4b | 9m | |||
10 |
Ellie's Lips
The seperate wall right of Mandachuva | VS 4b | 9m |
1.2.7. Pear Buttress 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
description
A compact buttress further on from the Main Wall that might prove to be useful if the crag is busy. Approach - Walk past the main wall for 100m.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Geneva Spur
The thin crack 5m left of Wayne Fell In Do Do. P1. Climb the crack to the muddy bank. Belay on the Blocky headwall on the right. Arrange a good belay. P2. Walk right and pull over the block and climb more easily up left to finish. | HS 4a | 30m, 2 | |||
2 |
Wayne Fell in Do Do
The narrow rib. | 4a | 10m | |||
3 | Jetison Bilge | 5a | ||||
4 | Fruitless Pair | 6b+ | 10m | |||
5 | La Poire | 6b | ||||
6 |
Posh and Becs
Direct and bold boulder problem start to first clip using a lovely crimp, reach to sloper and side pulls. Avoids any of the ledges on apples and pairs for the full tick. Stickclip use for some or coming in from right (Apples and pears) drops a grade. | 6c | 10m | |||
7 |
Apples and Pairs
Follow a series of blind corners staying clear of poor rock to the right. | 6a | 10m | |||
8 |
Welcome to Sport Mountain
25m right of Apples and Pears. Now bolted July 2020 | 4b | 9m | |||
9 | ★ Florence Nightingale | 3b | 9m | |||
10 | Iron Bolt Hill | 3c | 9m |
1.2.8. Main Wall 26 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
description
The left-hand side of the main area is composed of a fine wall of flowstone which, although not very tall, offers some sustained and enjoyable pitches. The right-hand side is less appealing but the climbs are a bit more challenging than first appearances might suggest. Approach - This section is 200m further along from the Hindu Kush Area.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Jug Fest
An enjoyable little line that starts on the far left of the wall and heads up and right and then back left on good flowstone. | 4b | ||||
2 | Black Tide | 5c | ||||
3 | Porcellena | 5c | ||||
4 | Destination Brynmawr | 6a | ||||
5 | ★★ Tea Leaves | 6b | ||||
6 | ★ Battle of the Bulge | 6c | ||||
7 | ★ Nose Job | 6c+ | ||||
8 | ★★ Flow Job | 6b | ||||
9 | ★★ All Things Bright And Beautiful! | 6a+ | ||||
10 |
★ Diagnosis Made Easy
Move up into small scoop, sink hand into pocket above then powerful move to undercling(crux), blast to the top before your forearms wilt. 7a in the new GWR guide. | 7a | ||||
11 | ★ Pwll Du Crack | 5c | ||||
12 | ★ Go with the Flow | 6a | ||||
13 | There's No Business Like Flow Business | 5c | ||||
14 |
Gilwern Traverse
Starting from the rockfall around the arête to the left of 'Jug Fest' then traverse just above ground level across and down to the start of 'All Aboard My Dingy'. Long and sustained but with interesting moves. | 5 | 30m | |||
15 | The Brexit Legacy | 6a | ||||
16 | Should I Stay | 6c | ||||
17 | Article 50 | 6c+ | ||||
18 | Should I Go | 6b+ | ||||
19 | Sailing to Freedom | 5c | ||||
20 | Whatever Floats Your Boat | 6a | ||||
21 | A Paddock Full of Ponies | 5c | ||||
22 | On White Horses | 5a | ||||
23 | Crack Me Up | 4a | ||||
24 | All Aboard My Dingy | 4c | ||||
25 | Rounding the Mark | 5b | ||||
26 |
Thick As A Brick
Start within 10 m right of Rounding the Mark. P1. Climb or variously scramble to the upper crag above. P2. Climb cautiously and with suspicion the rock of the middle front face of the right buttress starting by a wide crack, ledge and thin deteriorating upper ledges, on sometimes poor/suspect rock. Two pieces of spaced gear. Mid sized cams and wires essential for the route and belay. 23m ( 13m for pitch2) | VS 4a | 23m, 2 |
1.2.9. The lookout Conning Tower 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
The Blocky skyline Buttress above and before Main Wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Perfumed Punch
P1.Climb/scramble on the best rock (15m) to a stance at a single bolt below the prominent buttress arête. P2. (10m)Climb the left face of the buttress via a bulge and ledges with an unusual awkward steep pull into a crack system. A single bolt protects the crux sequence. Finish up or back towards the arête to a ledge. Surmount the final stepped block more easily. Sit like a sage and gaze at the wonderful view. | E1 5b | 25m, 2 | |||
2 |
★ Too Hoot To Who
This route climbs the arete of the skyline buttress. It is gained from the quarry base 8m right of 'Rounding the Mark' and is 2 pitched full height route. P1. Scramble up left or right on the best quality rock for 15m (est) to a single bolt belay stance below the Lookout/Conning Tower buttress above. Add gear as necessary. P2 (8m) (est) from a position directly below the arête climb up blocky ledges to a groove with overlap above and below the arête proper. Set very small wires and cams before going for the crux arête via a committing side pull move at halfway to crimps. Finish over bulges to perch on the vantage point, wink and hoot on about the awesome view. Be aware of snappy and loose holds throughout at times. | E3 6a | 25m, 2 | |||
3 |
Escapism Route
Climb right from the belay bolt below Perfumed Punch up right wards over block arête towards the obvious deep crack 4m right of the arête. Climb it and using holds just right. | VS 4b | 13m | |||
4 |
Cyanide Cracks
P1. Scramble up any of the various rock faces of your choice with little protection. Cross the choss to below the right hand cracks in the upper wall by an historic quarry spike ( just left). A belay can be set here, 6m (?) right of the stance bolt on Perfumed Punch ( 10m). P2. Climb through the weakest point selecting the only few secure holds ( small wires in the ‘good’ crack hard to place) amongst some big loose risky stuff and pull with difficulty onto a good ledge. Two good cracks now house good wires. Climb anywhere here to the top on small holds by the crack with caution ( 10m) to a tough pullout and scramble broken ground to a spike and wires belay. | HVS 4c | 25m, 2 |
1.2.10. Hindu Kush Area 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
A long low crag that has a number of good little pitches that are technical and sustained. This makes for more of an experience than might first be anticipated. The rock is good and the crag base is flat and grassy. Approach - This is the first wall encountered on the approach from the road.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Health Freak | 5b | 7m | |||
2 | ★ Cod Liver Oil | 6b | 8m | |||
3 | ★★ Glucosamine & Chondroitin | 6c | 8m | |||
4 | ★ Green Energy | 7a+ | 12m | |||
5 | ★ Fuelled by Pies | 7a+ | 8m | |||
6 | ★ Johnny Takes a Tumble | 6a | 8m | |||
7 | ★ The House that Jack Built | 6a | 8m | |||
8 | ★ Snap Crackle 'n' Pop | 6a | 9m | |||
9 | ★ White Noise | 5a | 9m | |||
10 | The Road to Nowhere | 5a | 8m | |||
11 | ★ Back, Crack and Sack | 5a | 9m | |||
12 | ★ Take me up the Hindu Kush | 5c | 8m | |||
13 | ★ To Dai or not to Dai | 5c | ||||
14 | ★ Brittle Biscuit | 4c | 8m | |||
15 | Tad | 5a | 6m | |||
16 | Smidgen | 5b | 6m | |||
17 | ★ Scintilla | 5c | 6m | |||
18 | ★ Under a Blood Red Sky | 5c | 8m | |||
19 | ★ The Event Horizon | 6a | 10m | |||
20 |
Khyber Pass Traverse
Keep for an empty crag day or risk being shot at. This high level traverse crosses most/all lines. Mostly good rock/some loose. Escapable; though at times unprotected/not suitable for novices. The second will have to down climb on some of the harder climbing. Climb event horizon for 4/5 bolts/lower off. Start leftwards traverse and finish pitch 1 at lower off of To Dai/not to Dai or similar. Clip/sling a sapling in passing. Follow a high line to finish at Glucosamine and chondroitin lower off or thereabouts. Belays can be taken regularly. Abseil from Glucosamine anchors. | 6a | 2 |
1.2.11. Gilwern Lower - Gilwern West 61 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
description
Below the road near the Main Area. First acquaintances may be off-putting...but bathed in the ochre light of a summer evening's sunset could make it feel like Majorca. Adventurous rock and rudimentary cleaning to good lower offs will appeal to experienced climbers of good judgement and strength.
1.2.11.1. Tyre Sector 34 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Coming Unstuck
A hard start leads to easier but sustained climbing on fragile concretions. | 6b | ||||
2 |
I'm Stuck,I'm Off.
Climb wall on left side at hard | 6b | 8m | |||
3 |
Stig of the Dump
Right side. Hard | 6a+ | 8m | |||
4 |
Stickle Brick
Not long. Scary in action of clipping 3rd bolt. | 5c | 8m | |||
5 | Stick it up 'em | 6a | ||||
6 | Stick it to 'em | 6a+ | 9m | |||
7 |
Evostick
Pleasant wall climbing at right side. | 4b | 9m | |||
8 |
William James Memorial Route
The nice looking wall to the right of the diseased tree which is just to the right of Evostick. Climb the deceptively hard rib to the good slot in the bulge. Move steeply right wards through the bulge to a monster hidden side hold and finish more easily. Still without lower off 03/08/18 | 6c+ | 14m | |||
9 | Rubber Blubber | 6c | ||||
10 | Tyre and Brimstone | 6a | ||||
11 | Funeral Tyre | 6a+ | ||||
12 | Tyred Out | 6b | ||||
13 | Retyred | 5b | ||||
14 | Too Tyred? | 6b | ||||
15 |
Walls Have Ears
A sustained pitch. Make a difficult move past the first bolt until a ramp line leads right. Now the crux. Step high to reach positive holds. Continued delicate climbing leads past a bulge and easier climbing. | 15m | ||||
16 | Pirelli Times | 7c | ||||
17 | ★ Don't worry be snappy | 7b+ | ||||
18 |
★ Dim Tipio Anghyfreithlon
The fine open groove to the left of Its been a Goodyear There is a really hard long move past the second bolt to a good fingerhold, continue with more difficulty to a breather at the third bolt. Move slightly right at the fourth and up to the belay. | 7b | ||||
19 | It's been a Goodyear | 6b+ | ||||
20 | Dunlop Special | 6b | ||||
21 | Retread | 6b | ||||
22 | Remoulded | 6c | ||||
23 | Tyre Times | 6c | ||||
24 | Locking nut | 6c+ | ||||
25 | Onto the Canvas | 5b | ||||
26 | Bald patch | 5b | ||||
27 | Mal Alignment | 5b | ||||
28 | Get tracking | 6a | ||||
29 | Wear and Tear | 6a | ||||
30 | Majorca With Tyres | 5a | ||||
31 | Wheel and Tyre | 6a | ||||
32 | ★★★ Rimmed | 5c | ||||
33 | Torque Wrench | 6b | ||||
34 | ★ Running Hot, But Cool In The Zone | 5b | 11m |
1.2.11.2. Ivor Big gun Sector 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
description
Further along @ 100m
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ivor Biggun
p1 12m, p2 13m difficult wall to a bolt belay then start over a block and direct | 5c | 25m, 2 | |||
2 |
Everybody Wants One
p1 12m , p2 12m | 5c | 24m, 2 | |||
3 |
A Dying Art
A highball? between Everybody Wants One and \Pimp My Ride is a shallow groove to climb and leads to Pimp My Ride LO. | E2 5c | 6m | |||
4 | Pimp My Ride | 6c | 7m | |||
5 |
Your Wheels Ain't Fly
3rd route right of the multi pitch. | 6a+ | 10m |
1.2.11.3. Gilwern Motor Museum 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
upper tier further along
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Slow Lane | 6a | 10m | |||
2 |
Middle Lane Hogger
Pumpy jug pull in ragged crack then right to a ledge | 6c | 10m | |||
3 |
Fast And Furious
Overhanging thin crimpy pulls on calcite and edges | 7b | 10m | |||
4 | Riding Shotgun | 6a+ | ||||
5 | Drive-by Shooting | 6a | ||||
6 | Driven 2 Destruction | 6a | 12m | |||
7 |
Junk Yard Jete
just left of overhang | 6c+ | 12m | |||
8 |
Chassis Chase
A low roof and then gigantic spans | 7a | 12m | |||
9 |
Need For Speed
Long pulls through roofs and conglomerate holds lead to spaced moves | 7b | 12m | |||
10 |
Mystery Trad Route X
Bolted old peg line passing left of brown rock | 6c+ | 12m |
1.2.11.4. Alpine Ridge Sector 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hurry, Muttley!Huttley!
leftwards route steep. crux end overhang. | 6c | 12m | |||
2 |
Wacky Races
Big holds. tough finish | 6b+ | 12m | |||
3 |
As High As A Kite
Big holds to roof and pull left. back right for exposure and lo | 6a+ | 12m | |||
4 |
The Driverless Flightless Car
Straight up to a ledge then left | 6a+ | 12m | |||
5 |
Crash Test Dummy
left line | 6b+ | 12m | |||
6 |
Brunette
central line | 7a+ | 12m | |||
7 | Caramel Wall | 6c+ | 12m |
1.2.11.5. Finale Wall 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Final Countdown | 6a+ | 6m | |||
2 | The Final Fantasy | 5c | 6m | |||
3 |
★ The Book of Revalations
The small groove. | 4c | 7m | |||
4 |
We Are All Finished
The small groove. | VD | 8m | |||
5 |
Next Step Clydach
The wall right of the groove, and left to the anchor | S 4a | 9m |
1.3. Llangattock 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 51.822909, -3.135579
summary
Limestone escarpment south of Crickhowell in the Usk valley
1.3.1. The Lonely Shepherd Boulder 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 51.822089, -3.134507
summary
Standalone boulder in the middle of the Lonely Shepherd quarry
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The Lonely Traverse
Start on right side of boulder on good jug, move up and traverse along lip until you top out on the far left FA: O. Keynes | {FB} 7B | ||||
2 |
★★ Pandemonium direct
straight up right arete FA: Liam Fyfe | {FB} 7B+ | ||||
3 |
★★ Study in Scarlet
sit start in the middle of the main overhanging face on a good left hand crimp and right hand gaston, up directly to lip and mantle top out FA: H Garner | {FB} 7A+ | ||||
4 |
★★ Study in Scarlet stand
starting with both hands match on the edge | {FB} 6C | ||||
5 |
★★★ Lonely scarlet
as for lonely traverse but top out on study in scarlet finish rather than on the left of boulder | {FB} 7B | ||||
6 |
Slice and dice
hughs arete into study in scarlet topout | {FB} 6C+ | ||||
7 |
Hugh's arete
Sit start on left arete and straight up | {FB} 6A |
1.4. The Valleys Sandstone 69 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.639931, -3.253444
1.4.1. The Gap 50 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.657984, -3.332427
summary
Hard sandstone makes for good edges and nice cracks. Different to the usual limestone of the area
description
The Gap is a nice sandstone quarry offering routes at a range of grades. It can be popular.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
As It Was
FA: Roy Thomas, 1994 | VS 4c | 10m | |||||
2 |
★ Kabuto Mushi
FA: Roy Thomas & Eugene Travers-Jones, 1993 | 6a+ | 10m | |||||
3 |
★ Yikes
FA: Martin Crocker, Roy Thomas & Mick Learoyd, 1993 | 6b+ | 12m | |||||
4 |
★★ So Uncool
FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6c | 15m | |||||
5 |
★ Just Hanging Around
FA: Roy Thomas & Graham Royle, 1990 | E1 5b | 15m | |||||
6 |
★ Bluster
FA: Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6b | 15m | |||||
7 |
★ Fluster
FA: Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★ Marlin on the Wall
FA: Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
9 |
★ Don't Blame Me
FA: Matt Hirst, 2005 | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
★ Sumo no Shiro
FA: Roy Thomas & Eugene Travers-Jones, 1993 | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★ Canine League
FA: Roy Thomas & Simon Coles, 1994 | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
12 |
★★ Sleeping Dogs Lie
FA: Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
13 |
★ Don't Bark Yet
FA: Matt Hirst, 2004 | 7a | 15m | |||||
14 |
★ Generation Gap
FA: Graham Royle & Roy Thomas, 1993 | 5c | 20m | |||||
15 |
★ Mister Faraday
FA: Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6a | 20m | |||||
16 |
★★ Poker in the Eye
FA: Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
17 |
★ Grout Expectations
FA: Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6a | 20m | |||||
18 |
★ Shackles of Love
FA: Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6a | 20m | |||||
19 |
Fill That Gap / Frightening Looking Flake
Formerly 'Frightening Looking Flake' (E2 5c), the flake of which fell down. Now bolted. FA: Roy Thomas, 1992 Set: Roy Thomas, 2021 | 6b | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
★ Ring of Confidence
FA: Roy Thomas, 1993 | 6b | 20m | |||||
21 |
★★ Get Flossed
FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1994 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
22 |
★★ Loctite
FA: Andy Sharp & Pete Lewis, 1989 | 7b | 20m | |||||
23 |
★★ Land of the Dinosaurs
FA: Roy Thomas, Gareth Davies & Mick Learoyd, 1990 | 6b | 18m | |||||
24 |
★★ Momentary Lapse of Reason
FA: Tony Forster & P. Harding, 1989 | 7b+ | 18m | |||||
25 |
★★ Rattle those Tusks
FA: Roy Thomas & Mick Learoyd, 1990 | 6b | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
26 |
★★ Mad at the Sun
FA: Martin Crocker & Roy Thomas, 1990 | 7c | 20m | |||||
27 |
★★ Leave it to Me
FA: Matt Hirst, 2007 | 6c | 18m | |||||
28 |
★★ Salmon Running, Bear Cunning
FA: Pete Lewis & Andy Sharp, 1990 | 7a | 18m | |||||
29 |
★★ John West
Short extension of 'Salmon Running, Bear Cunning'. FA: Eugene Travers-Jones, 1992 | {FR} 7b | 20m | |||||
30 |
★★ Anything You Can Do
FA: Andy Sharp & Pete Lewis, 1990 FA: Gary Givson & Roy Thomas, 1992 | 7b | 20m | |||||
31 |
I Can Do Better
Direct finish to 'Anything You Can Do'. FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1992 | 7b | 20m | |||||
32 |
★★★ Encore! Magnifique!
FA: Martin Crocker & Roy Thomas, 1993 | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
33 |
★★★ Pleasant Valley Sunday
FA: Andy Sharp & Pete Lewis, 1989 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
34 |
★★★ One Track Mind
FA: Andy Sharp & Pete Lewis, 1989 | 7a | 20m | |||||
35 |
★ Greased Balls
FA: Roy Thomas, 1994 | 6b | 20m | |||||
36 |
Rain and Tears
FA: Roy Thomas & Mick Learoyd, 1990 | E1 5b | 18m | |||||
37 |
Full Bag
FA: Roy Thomas & Mick Learoyd, 1990 | 6b | 20m | |||||
38 |
★★ Controlled Emission
FA: Paul Donnithorne & Emma Alsford, 1993 | 6c | 20m | |||||
39 |
★ Sperm Wail
FA: Martin Crocker & Roy Thomas, 1990 Set: Sep 2021 | 7a | 20m | |||||
40 |
★ Scrotum Oil
FA: Roy Thomas, 1994 | 6c | 20m | |||||
41 |
Naked Truth
FA: Roy Thomas & Gary Gibson, 1990 | 5c | 20m | |||||
42 |
★ Pick Up the Pieces
FA: Roy Thomas, 1991 Set: Sep 2021 | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
43 |
Retro Butt-In
FA: Roy Thomas, 1992 | 5+ | 15m | |||||
44 |
★ Perfect Scoundrels
FA: Tony Penning, Pete Lewis & Andy Sharp, 1990 FA: Gary Gibson, 1994 | 6c | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
45 |
Butt Out
FA: Roy Thomas & Matt Hirst, 2004 | 6a | 15m | |||||
46 |
Per Rectum
FA: Roy Thomas & Matt Hirst, 2004 | 5b | 10m | |||||
47 |
Stool Sample
FA: Nick O'Neill & Roy Thomas, 2005 | 5c | 10m | |||||
48 |
As It Is
FA: Roy Thomas, 1994 | 5c | 10m | |||||
49 |
Turd Strangler
FA: Matt Hirst & Roy Thomas, 2004 Maint: Jun 2018 | 6c | 10m | |||||
50 |
★ Di Horrea
FA: Roy Thomas & Matt Hirst, 2004 | 6b | 15m |
1.4.2. Goitre Coed 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 51.654340, -3.326026
summary
Broken escarpment with some decent boulders above Abercynon. A short walk from The Gap sport climbing and bouldering area.
1.4.2.1. Crapstone Villa 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Bindi Roof
Start matched on undercling at the back of the roof with feet on the footblock and work your way out to the lip and a difficult top out | {FB} 6B+ | ||||
2 |
★★ Bindi Roof (no footblock)
Eliminate version of Bindi Roof without big footblock to start. Uses toehooks on the lip instead | {FB} 7A+ |
1.4.2.2. Plantation boulders 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Helium
Leftmost boulder in the area. Sit start on bad edge and work way up easier slopers to top out FA: David Cover | {FB} 6B+ | ||||
2 |
★ Hydrogen
Sit start to helium from the bottom left arete FA: David Cover | {FB} 7B | ||||
3 |
Plantation Arete
straight up the obvious arete | {FB} 6A |
1.4.3. Sirhowy 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.611713, -3.151057
1.4.3.1. The Rust Curtain 0 routes in Sector
1.4.3.2. The Dust Curtain 0 routes in Sector
1.4.3.3. Western Wall 0 routes in Sector
1.4.3.4. Upper Tier 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Outsider
FFA: Alan Rosier & Rob McAllister, 30 Jun 2015 | {FR} 5b | 12m | |||
2 |
Prison Sex
Nice chimney climb next to Jambi. | {FR} 5c | 12m | |||
3 | Rosetta Stoned | {FR} 6a | 20m | |||
4 | Hooker with a Penis | {FR} 6a+ | 20m | |||
5 | Jambi | {FR} 6c | 12m |
1.4.4. Navigation Quarry 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.637249, -3.320893
summary
A south west facing quarry, climbable all year around.
description
The name comes from a pub in the area that is it close nowadays.
access issues
BMC Reported Restricted Access Seasonal Restrictions Dates: 1 March to 1 August Reason: Nesting Birds BMC have been advised that Barn Owls could be nesting at this crag. If so these birds have special protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act. Avoid climbing the routes on the Left Hand Retaining wall "Left Over" to "Half man-Half Machine" inclusive.
approach
Park at The Navigation pub (now closed), cross the A470 and follow a dog walkers path southwards.
history
Once one of the best sport crags in the area.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Leftover | {FR} 5a | 8m | |||
2 | Threadsearch | {FR} 4a | 8m | |||
3 | Octopod | {FR} 3c | 8m | |||
4 |
Death Twitch
FA: R.Thomas, 1987 | {FR} 6a | ||||
5 | Death Wish | {FR} 5c | ||||
6 | Fly me to the moon | VS 5a | 25m |
1.4.5. Glynfach 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
summary
A small quarried crag set above in the hills hosting a small number of routes of which some are intense, but well bolted.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Fach Roo
Pumpy and overhung crimpy climbing. Good quality. | {FR} 6a+ | 8m, 4 | |||
2 |
★★★ Killer Arete
The king line of the crag and one of the top fifty lines in South Wales sport climbing. Beautiful moves up steep jugs and great holds. | {FR} 6b+ | 15m, 6 | |||
3 |
Psychotherapy
Crimpy and technical climbing. | {FR} 7a | 10m, 2 |
1.5. Llanbradach Quarry 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.597628, -3.233988
1.5.1. Upper Tier Left 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Rorama | {FR} 6c | ||||
2 | Three Men in a Goat | {FR} 6c | ||||
3 | Once Bitten | {FR} 6b | ||||
4 | Twice Shy | {FR} 6a | ||||
5 | Hollow Feeling | {FR} 6b | ||||
6 | Practice What You Preach | E3 5b | ||||
7 | Pampered | {FR} 6b | ||||
8 | You Change Me | {FR} 6c+ | ||||
9 | Nappy Rush | {FR} 6b | ||||
10 | Torch the Earth | {FR} 7b | ||||
11 | ★★ Dirty as a Dog | {FR} 6b | ||||
12 | Desert Storm | {FR} 7a+ | ||||
13 | Twenty Second Chance | {FR} 7a+ | ||||
14 | Sixty Seconds Go See | {FR} 7a | ||||
15 | Roaring Forties | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
16 | Between the Lines | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
17 | ★ Hallowed Harrovians | {FR} 6b+ |
1.5.2. Upper Tier Right 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Missing Quarter | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
2 | Saboo | {FR} 6c | ||||
3 | Dandelion | {FR} 6b | ||||
4 | Burdock | {FR} 6b | ||||
5 | Blinded By Love | {FR} 6c+ | ||||
6 | The Laughing Policeman | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
7 | Fair Cop | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
8 | Aptitude Test | {FR} 7a | ||||
9 | The Merthyr Infill | {FR} 6c | ||||
10 | My Blue Bell | {FR} 6b | ||||
11 | All Sand Together | {FR} 6c+ | ||||
12 | Red 'erring | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
13 | ★ Plaque Attack | {FR} 6c | ||||
14 | Incidentally | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
15 | Cop the Lot | {FR} 7a | ||||
16 | Caerphilly Cop Out | {FR} 6c+ | ||||
17 | I Am What I Am | {FR} 6b | ||||
18 | You Are What You Is | {FR} 6c | ||||
19 | Is it What You Are That Is? | {FR} 6c+ |
1.5.3. Luxury Walls 0 routes in Sector
1.5.4. Sinister Walls 0 routes in Sector
1.5.5. Cascade Walls 0 routes in Sector
1.5.6. Expansionist Walls 0 routes in Sector
1.5.7. Western Walls 0 routes in Sector
1.6. Morlais Quarries 47 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.779217, -3.381777
summary
Easy walk in.
description
Old limestone quarry, rock is generally good with some loose sections. Belays can be difficult and are often on stakes which should be backed up.
approach
Limited parking on the road next to the Aberglais pub. (speak to pub owners for permission to park in their car park). Short walk from here onto a large old stone Bridge, straight after crossing the bridge look left for a path leading through the woods up to the crag.
ethic
The place is a mess so please don't add to the waste. Look out for broken glass. If you can help clear some rubbish.
1.6.1. Lower Tier 0 routes in Cliff
1.6.2. Middle Tier 47 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
1.6.2.1. Great Wall 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Old Friends
FA: 2001 | VD | 13m | |||||
2 | ★ To The Batmobile | HVS 5b | 15m | |||||
3 | Grace Under Pressure | E1 5b | 15m | |||||
4 | ★ Phobia | E1 5b | 18m | |||||
5 | ★ The Rattling Finish | E2 5c | 17m | |||||
6 | ★★ Blade Runner | E3 5c | 18m | |||||
7 | ★★ Morlais in a Tramps Vest | E5 6a | ||||||
8 | ★ Rogues Gallery | E5 6b | 18m | |||||
9 | ★ No Mercy | E6 6c | 21m | |||||
10 | ★★ Partners in Crime | E5 6c | 18m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
Fly Arete
Can be wet and muddy, wait until later for it to dry. | HS | ||||||
12 | Massascent Groove | VD | ||||||
13 | Ledge Way | VD | ||||||
14 | Tiptoe | S | ||||||
15 | Spectacle | S | ||||||
16 | Serpant | VD | ||||||
17 | Lost Groove | D | ||||||
18 | Two Corners | VD |
1.6.2.2. The Ramparts 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Short easy climbs
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dirty Corner | D | ||||
2 | Sixties Groove | VD | ||||
3 | Easy route | M |
1.6.2.3. Castle Bay 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
summary
A great grag, some classic routes here.
description
Two faces here, one is the bulging cliff face and the other is a vertical slab with some crack lines.
approach
All climbs are approached the same. Ask permission from the pub owners if you park in the car park. Road parking available.
history
There's an old castle with some remains left intact on the top. The area is an old open mine.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Gold medal | VS | 16m | |||||
2 |
Top Cat
Start in the wide crack, climb out and slightly left. Continue into the corner then top out. | S | 16m | |||||
3 | Name Game | HS | 16m | |||||
4 |
Great Corner
Obvious corner to the right, follow it all the way up on good gear and good holds. | S | 16m | |||||
5 |
Castle Wall
A well protected crack line slightly to the right of great corner. Can be started from the ledge at great corner for a easier start. | VS | 20m | |||||
6 |
Arisk
The next crack along from castle wall up the otherwise blank wall. Follow cracks to the top. | VS | ||||||
7 |
Wall Cracks
Final crack to the right on the blank wall. | HVS |
1.6.2.4. Windy Wall 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Griptight | HS 4b | ||||||
2 | Gripfix | HS 4b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | Parting Company | S | ||||||
4 | Windy | HVS 5a | ||||||
5 | Pullover | HVS 5a | ||||||
6 | Breezing | HVS 5b | ||||||
7 | Overdrive | E1 5a | ||||||
8 | Oxo | VS 4b | ||||||
9 | Philanderer | VS 4c | ||||||
10 | Blue Buska | E3 5c | ||||||
11 | Grease Monkey | VD | ||||||
12 | Groovy | S | ||||||
13 | Pull Through | S | ||||||
14 | Blockhead | S | ||||||
15 | Tree Corner | S | ||||||
16 | Split Buttress | VD | ||||||
17 | Fork Left | VS 4c | ||||||
18 | Fork Right | S 4a | ||||||
19 | Sting | VD |
1.6.3. Upper Tier 0 routes in Cliff
1.7. Taff's Well Area 74 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.537613, -3.260333
summary
Nice little quarry that is quite guarded from the elements. Long pitches by quarry standards.
description
Taffs Well is an easily accessed quarried crag north of Cardiff. It features some nice routes which can be quite long and technical. Many of the routes are technical slabs, with a few micro roofs thrown in.
approach
Park just of the roundabout connecting the A470 and the B4262. The crag is obvious as youre driving north up the A470. It is two miles before the town of Taffs Well proper
where to stay
No camping option, but near to towns and cities.
ethic
Sport climbing on quarried limestone.
1.7.1. Pinnacle 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.542223, -3.260208
description
West facing limestone pinnacle just off the A470 in Taffs Well. Routes are generally shabby and low difficulty.
There can sometimes be some dust, ivy, and brambles on the route so if you can please take the time to clean the route.
Midges can be a problem here so bug spray is recommended.
approach
Park on Forest Road Taffs Well. There is a small gap in the hedge opposite the junction for Forest Road, the crag is about a 50m walk from the road.
ethic
There are gardens within earshot so try to keep a low profile.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Scurvy Rubber Ducky, Arrr!
FA: A. J. Rosier, R. McAllister & A. Rosier, 25 Apr 2018 | 4c | ||||
2 |
★★ Crusty Barnacles
FA: R. McAllister & A.Rosier, 25 Apr 2018 | 5a | ||||
3 |
★★ Poppin’ in the Poop Deck
FA: A. Rosier & R. McAllister, 2013 | 5c | 11m | |||
4 |
★★ Megalodon
FA: A. Rosier & R. McAllister, 2013 | 6a | 12m | |||
5 |
★★ Kiss the Gunner’s Daughter
FA: A. Rosier & R. McAllister, 2013 | 5c | 13m | |||
6 |
★★ Angry Pirate
FA: A. Rosier & R. McAllister, 2013 | 5c | ||||
7 |
Sponge Bob
FA: A. Rosier & R. McAllister, 2013 | VD | ||||
8 |
★ Sharktopus vs Megapotamus
FA: A. Rosier & R. McAllister, 2013 | 4c | ||||
9 |
★★ Yar!
FA: A. Rosier & R. McAllister, 2013 | 5a | 9m | |||
10 |
★★ Jurassic Shark
FA: A. Rosier & R. McAllister, 2013 | 5c | 9m |
1.7.1.1. Back Wall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.542187, -3.260084
summary
Short micro routes
approach
Scramble up steep path to the left of Pinnacle main wall or walk around to the right
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Toxic Badger Dust
FA: R. McAllister & A. Rossier, 21 Jul 2020 | 6a | ||||
2 |
Bermuda Tentacles
FA: R. McAllister & A. Rosier, 21 Jul 2020 | 6a | ||||
3 |
Slabasoreass
FA: R. McAllister & A. Rosier, 21 Jul 2020 | 6a+ |
1.7.2. Calcite Wall 21 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.537829, -3.259224
description
Calcite Wall with some friable rock. Some long 35metre pitches. South west cliff which gets hot in the summer.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Red Organised Man | {FR} 6b | ||||||
2 | Red Square | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
3 | Organised Chaos | {FR} 6c | ||||||
4 | The Melty Man Cometh | {FR} 7a | ||||||
5 | Trebanog Calling | {FR} 6a | ||||||
6 | I'm Alright Jack | {FR} 6b | ||||||
7 | Ye Old Campaigner | {FR} UK:E5 | ||||||
8 | La Confidential (P1) | {FR} 5a | ||||||
9 | La Confidential | {FR} 7a | ||||||
10 | Crowman | {FR} UK:E5 | ||||||
11 | Kings of New York (P1) | {FR} 6b | ||||||
12 | Kings of New York | {FR} 7a | ||||||
13 | Tainted Turd | {FR} 5c | ||||||
14 | Painted Bird | {FR} UK:E6 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 | Minnesota Nice | {FR} 7a+ | ||||||
16 | Minesota Spice | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
17 | Melting Man | {FR} 7a | ||||||
18 | ★★ Ghengis Khan | {FR} 6c+ | ||||||
19 | ★★ Taurus Bulbous | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
20 | Bulbous Tara | {FR} 4b | ||||||
21 | Hirsuit Uvulva | {FR} 6a |
1.7.3. Lower Wall 23 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.536869, -3.258132
description
Right of the base of Calcite Wall. Well shaded.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pilgrim | {FR} 4c | ||||||
2 | Tirpentwnys Style | {FR} 4c | ||||||
3 | Mega Mix | {FR} 5c | ||||||
4 | Gwesty Cymru 7 Inch Mix | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
5 | The Twelve Inch Version | {FR} 7a | ||||||
6 | Daggers | {FR} 6c | ||||||
7 | Gaze Over By There | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
8 | Look Over Yonder | {FR} 6c+ | ||||||
9 | Wet Afternoon | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
10 | Open Groove | {FR} 6b | ||||||
11 | Ulrika KA KA KA (P1) | {FR} 6b+ | ||||||
12 | Ulrika KA KA KA | {FR} 6c+ | ||||||
13 | D'ya Hear Ma Dear | {FR} 6a+ | ||||||
14 | Good Gear, Good Cheer | {FR} 6b | ||||||
15 | ★★★ No Beer, No Fear | {FR} 6a+ | ||||||
16 | Not My Fault | {FR} 6c+ | ||||||
17 | Foot and Mouth | {FR} 6b | ||||||
18 | Id-iot | {FR} 6b | ||||||
19 | CJD | {FR} 6b | ||||||
20 | Get Down on This | {FR} 6c | ||||||
21 | Get Thee Hence | {FR} 6c+ | ||||||
22 | Matts Ice Bucket Challenge | {FR} 6c | ||||||
23 | Tidy asToolbox | {FR} 6c+ | ||||||
|
1.7.4. Upper Wall 0 routes in Unknown
description
Above the Lower Wall and right of Calcite Wall
1.7.5. Castell Coch 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.535639, -3.255283
description
Right of Calcite Wall and beyond Lower Wall towards Castell Coch. Shaded. Short routes.
approach
Access from east off the A470 junction roundabout for Taffs well. Through the gate and then on the path bearing right. Pass some stone steps and then follow the valley to the quarry.
ethic
The crag is VERY close to Castell Coch, so try not draw too much attention and keep a low profile.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Slippery Lip Trip
Traversal FA: A. Rosier, D. Emanuel & B. Danby, 2009 | 6b | ||||
2 |
Lungworms
FA: R.McAllister & A.Rosier, 14 Jul 2020 | 7a | ||||
3 |
The Crawling Chaos
FA: A. Rosier, 2009 | 7a | ||||
4 |
Avoiding Chaos
FA: A.N.Other | 6c | ||||
5 | The Chaos Games | 7a | ||||
6 |
Play the Joker
FA: R. Thomas, N. O'neill 2009 & N. O'Neill, 2009 | 6b+ | ||||
7 |
Games of Ambivalence
FA: J. Maddison & H. Andrews, 2009 | 6b+ | ||||
8 |
★★ The Warmth of a Man
FA: D. Emanuel & R. Thomas, 2009 | 6a | ||||
9 |
Ass in the Hole
FA: R.Thomas, N. O'neill, E. Rees & N. O'Neill, 2009 | 6b+ | ||||
10 |
Royal Flush
FA: R. Thomas, 2009 | 6b+ | ||||
11 |
Savant
FA: D. Emanuel, 2009 | 6c+ | ||||
12 |
Stalag Luft
FA: D. Emanuel & K. Davies, 2009 | 5c | ||||
13 |
A Ride on the Chocolate Unicorn
FA: D. Emanuel & K. Davies, 2009 | 5c | ||||
14 |
The Dark Art of Banana Magic
FA: D. Emanuel & D. Hannam, 2009 | 4a | ||||
15 |
R2 Sucking D2 Licking Deep inside a Half-Cooked Chicken
FA: D. Emanuel, 2009 | 4a | ||||
16 |
For Fonting Friends
FA: J. Maddison & H. Andrews, 2009 | 4a | ||||
17 |
★★ Dissertation Distraction
FA: M. Walter, 2009 | 4a |
1.7.6. Taffs Well West 0 routes in Unknown
description
Both slab and overhanging wall in an enclosed area with good shade. Park at Heol Berry off the Pentyrch Road.
1.7.7. The Slabs (West) 0 routes in Unknown
description
Pass the quarry area (Taffs Well West) and continue along path. Sun until mid afternoon
1.8. Tirpentwys 31 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.700246, -3.076176
summary
All year round easy access crag with sustained and crimpy climbing
description
Quarried crag in a quiet valley. Great for kids.
approach
Turn off the A4043 from Pontypool. Pass Plas y Coed pub. Park at Tirpentwys Tip old entrance.
ethic
Newly cleaned and equipped crag
history
Newly cleaned and equipped crag
1.8.1. The Left Wall 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.699741, -3.076703
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Shrew | 5b | ||||
2 | Yank my Chain | 4b | ||||
3 | Paw Me | 4c | ||||
4 | ★★ By Default Line | 5b |
1.8.2. Main Wall 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.700292, -3.076140
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Brown Dirt Cowboy | {FR} 6a+ | ||||
2 | ★★ Where Theres Muck There's Brass | {FR} 6a | ||||
3 | Mucky Ducky | {FR} 6a+ | ||||
4 | Let's Get Down and Dirty | {FR} 6a+ | ||||
5 | Dirty Deeds Done Dirt Cheap | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
6 | Choosey Suzie | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
7 | ★★ Lundy Boy | {FR} 6b | ||||
8 | ★★★ Supertramp | {FR} 7a | ||||
9 | ★★ Strawberry Jam | {FR} 7b+ | ||||
10 | ★★ The Cragmeister | {FR} 6b | ||||
11 | ★★ Rocky | {FR} 6a | ||||
12 | ★ The Tactless Teacher | {FR} 6b | ||||
13 | ★ Hail Mary | {FR} 7a | ||||
14 | ★ Twisted Logic | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
15 | ★ Leading Edge | {FR} 6a | ||||
16 | ★ Mental Mantles | {FR} 5c | ||||
17 | ★ Diamond Dog | {FR} 6b | ||||
18 | ★ The Chimney Finish | {FR} 6a+ | ||||
19 | ★ Flakes and Chips | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
20 | Ledge and Brace | {FR} 5a |
1.8.3. Right Wall 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.700677, -3.075747
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fledgeling | 6a+ | ||||
2 | The Yolk's On You | 6a | ||||
3 | You've Had Your Chicks | 6a | ||||
4 | Crumblin Towards England | 5a | ||||
5 | Crumblin at the Seams | 6a | ||||
6 | Crumbin at the Edges | 6a | ||||
7 | ★ Tirpentwys Taverse | V3 |
1.9. Witches Point and Temple Bay 37 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 51.464154, -3.605015
1.9.1. Ogmore 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.457071, -3.632162
Western Access Follow the B4524 from Ogmore by Sea towards Southerndown (Dunraven Bay) until it reaches a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after the sign marking the boundary of Southerndown). Park above the cliffs in a grassy area bounded by concrete post next to the "Barn". Descend a grassy gully towards the sea to reach a narrow path running westwards. When facing out to sea, a pinnacle is visible to the east (left). This marks the start of Exposure Explosion and is more or less directly above the line of Jumping Jack Flash.
Southerndown Access Follow the B4524 a little further to a sharp left-hand bend at the "Three Golden Cups" pub, but go straight on down the smaller road sign-posted "Beach". Park in the car park at the base of the hill (parking fee in spring and summer) and walk out to the concrete slipway. Turn back west (right if facing out to sea) to walk into the crag. Note that it is only possible to walk all the way along the base of the cliff at dead low water on spring tides, due to the cut off points round Davy Jones' Locker and Scutch.
summary
Sea Cliff climbing
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ exposure explosion | HVS | 84m | |||
2 |
★★★ Pluto
Climb the prominent groove. Swing left near the top, to finish up the left arête. It is also possible to finish direct at a slightly harder grade. | VS 4c | 27m | |||
3 |
★★★ Pinocchio
Climb a leftward rising crack/corner line below and right of the overhangs to a ledge beneath a steep wall. Traverse left past a crack above and climb the bulging wall to a chimney. Climb the chimney, step left along the lip of the overhang. Continue up left to a crack which is followed to a pinnacle. The climb finishes up a short chimney on the right side of the three overhangs | HVS 4c | 36m | |||
4 |
Flash Harry
13m right of Tusker Chimney. Climb via a groove to an obvious crack 1½m right of Tusker Right Hand, thence to the top. | HS 4a | 24m | |||
5 |
Elephant Wall
Start as for Wave Band to the ledges. Step right and climb the knobbly wall to the horizontal break and a possible stance. Step up and right at the break and climb a short groove and steep wall above. | VS 4b | 35m | |||
6 |
Abbey Road
Airy climbing up the first of the right-facing corners. Bridge up the cave for 4m then traverse right onto the wall. Climb to the overhang and follow the awkward right-hand groove to the next overhang. Step left and up to finish. | HVS 5a | 27m |
1.9.2. Witches Point 22 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.442649, -3.604476
description
Limestone sea cliff which is primarily sport climbing.
approach
Climbs can be climbed at high tide although access via the beach is cut off, however alternative access is via the top of the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Stone Wings Cliff | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Liassic Lark
Chalked crack lines that run into an intimidating roof. | 7a | 15m | |||||
3 |
★ In Search of Bedrock
A continuation of Liassic Lark trending left as a second pitch. 22 metre rap. | 7a+ | ||||||
4 |
★★ Help, Help Me Rhondda
FA: Eugene Travers-Jones, 1993 | 7c | 12m | |||||
5 |
★★ The Dai Vinci Coed
FA: Rob Lamey, 2013 | 7c | 15m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Methuselah
FA: Dave Pickford, 7 Aug 2016 | 8a | 16m | |||||
7 |
★★★ This God is Mine
FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1994 | 7b+ | 17m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Masada
FA: Eugene Travers-Jones, 1995 | 8a+ | 17m | |||||
9 |
★ Stone Wings
FA: Pat Littlejohn & S Robinson, 1979 FFA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1994 | E5 6a | 17m | |||||
10 |
The Uninvited Guest
FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1994 | 7b+ | 17m | |||||
11 |
★★ Mr. T
FA: Martyn Richards & Andy Sharp, 2013 | 8a+ | 20m | |||||
12 |
★★ Super Size Me
FA: Simon Rawlinson, 2013 | 7c+ | 17m | |||||
13 |
★★★ Staple Diet
FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1999 | 7b | 17m | |||||
14 |
★★ Tragic Moustache
FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1993 | 7a | 17m | |||||
15 |
★★ Five O'Clock Shadow
FA: Roy Thomas & Gary Gibson, 1996 | 6c+ | 17m | |||||
16 |
★★ Magic Touch
Diagonal left trending face climb starting off large boulder. FA: Pat Littlejohn, 1979 | 6b | 20m | |||||
17 |
Pelagic Mush
Same start point as Magic Touch but directly up. Start off boulder. FA: Roy Thomas & Gary Gibson, 1993 | 6a+ | 17m | |||||
18 |
★ Sideburn
4-5 metres right of Magic Touch | 6b+ | 17m | |||||
19 |
Spear the Bearded Clam
FA: Roy Thomas, 1998 | 6b | 15m | |||||
20 |
★ Slurp The Savoury Oyster
FA: Roy Thomas, 1998 | 5c | 15m | |||||
Dunraven CliffThe largest section of cliff. | ||||||||
22 |
★ Tufa at the Top
FA: Roy Thomas & Gary Gibson, 1992 | 7a | 12m | |||||
23 |
★★★ Hanging by a Thread
Classic. Easy ramp to high first bolt before hitting steep terrain. | 6c | 22m | |||||
24 |
★★★ Edge-More
FA: Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas, 1993 | {FR} 7b+ | 22m |
1.9.3. Temple Bay 0 routes in Crag
1.9.4. Castle Upon Alun 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.467450, -3.572143
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bush Trimmers Corner Link-up to Knee Trembler
Start in Bush Trimmers Corner, then above the crystals traverse left into Knee Trembler. | {FR} 6a | 15m, 8 | |||
2 |
Jump on The Gravy Train
FA: Roy Thomas | {FR} 4c | 6m, 2 | |||
3 |
Off the Rails
FA: Roy Thomas | {FR} 4c | 8m, 3 | |||
4 |
The Fat Controller
FA: Roy Thomas | {FR} 5c | 8m, 4 |
1.9.5. Ogmore Coastal Boulders 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
summary
Limestone bouldering with a mixture of crimps and slopers. Some problems are recorded but there is plenty more there. Not all is great but there are some really nice lines if you have a bit of an imagination.
1.9.5.1. Conglomerate Area 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Old Mans Beard
Start matched on the jug rail beneath the roof. | {FR} 7A | ||||
2 | ★★ Mushroom Roof | {FR} 7B | ||||
3 |
★★ BYOB
Alternative start to mushroom roof | {FB} 7B+ | ||||
4 | Robbosite | {FB} 6A | ||||
5 | ★ Robbosite full traverse | {FB} 6B+ |
1.10. Inland S E Wales 0 routes in Crag
1.11. Other Limestone Crags 0 routes in Area
1.12. Boulders 0 routes in Gym
summary
Indoor climbing and bouldering centre
description
Boulders is a indoor climbing and bouldering centre. They have have over 120 routes reaching heights of up to 12m. There is a good mix of top rope and lead routes. There are also 4 auto belays and 1 dedicates speed climbing auto belay.
The bouldering area comprises of the 4.5m high main room, the Rhino, a 3m high vertical warm-up/beginners wall, a horizontal cave) and a 45° woodie.
There is also a training area with endurance walls, campus boards, woodies, digital training boards, finger boards, rock and gym rings, and a moon board.
Boulders also have their own shop and cafe.
1.13. Roc-Bloc 0 routes in Gym
summary
Cardiff's first dedicated bouldering gym
description
Roc-Bloc is a new dedicated bouldering gym. It has a a good range of well set routes ranging from VB to V10. Roc-Bloc have a kilter board, and a training area with endurance boards, finger boards etc.
Roc-bloc also have a small cafe, men and women's changing/locker rooms with showers, parking, and a bike shelter.
1.14. Rock UK - Summit Centre 0 routes in Gym
description
Rock UK's Summit Centre is a climbing and bouldering gym located in Treharris. Their climbing walls have some of the highest indoor walls in South Wales with over 120 routes.
Summit Centre also has a cafe and community gym.
1.15. Drumau Road 58 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.664713, -3.848480
1.16. Neath Abbey Quarry 149 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 51.673090, -3.844118
1.17. Dyffryn 47 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.685511, -3.841015
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sub Prime Market | 4b | ||||
2 | Serendipity | 5c | ||||
3 | Enigma | 6b | ||||
4 | Who Dunnit | 6a | ||||
5 | You Dunnit | 6b | ||||
6 | Pocket Battleship | 5c | ||||
7 | Light Cruiser | 6a+ | ||||
8 | Dirty Deeds | 5c | ||||
9 | Get Yer Fist In | 5c | ||||
10 | Leave it to Me | 7a | ||||
11 | Flue Liner | 6a | ||||
12 | Pot Black | 6b+ | ||||
13 | Slab Happy | 6b | ||||
14 | Repetitive Stain Inquiry | 6a+ | ||||
15 | Porno Text King | 6b | ||||
16 | Silent Mode | 6a | ||||
17 | Rotters Club | 5c | ||||
18 | Bad Bad Boy | 6b | ||||
19 | Down the Drain | 5b | ||||
20 | Our Man from Hyder | 5b | ||||
21 | Mind Like a Sewer | HVS | ||||
22 | Off to Oz | 5b | ||||
23 | Ed's Triumph | 5c | ||||
24 | Vagabond | 6a | 9m | |||
25 | Nick's Dilemma | 6a | ||||
26 | Playing Away | 6a+ | ||||
27 | A Bit of Nokia on the Side | 6b | ||||
28 | Barbara | 6b | ||||
29 | Milky White | 6a | ||||
30 | Why Did I Bother? | 6b+ | ||||
31 | Predictive Text | 6b | ||||
32 | Baggle Brook Affair | 5b | ||||
33 | Nifty Fingers | 6a | ||||
34 | Lip Service | 6a | ||||
35 | Family Day | 6b | ||||
36 | Affairs of Man | 6b | ||||
37 | Supply on Demand | 6b | ||||
38 | Demolition Gang | 6a | ||||
39 | Birthday Bulge | 5b | ||||
40 | Ed's Folly | 6a | ||||
41 | Manky Groove | 5c | ||||
42 | Memory Man | 6b | ||||
43 | Gathering Gloom | 6a+ | ||||
44 | Ockers Delight | 6b | ||||
45 | Nick to the Rescue | 6c | ||||
46 | Damp Digits | 6a+ | ||||
47 | Straight and Narrow | 6a+ |
1.18. Craig y Pal 26 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.690294, -3.870633
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Crackin Saw | HVS 5b | ||||
2 | Bee Good | 6a+ | ||||
3 | Punching Holes In The Pension Fund | 6a+ | 9m | |||
4 | Actuarial Reduction | 6a+ | ||||
5 | Six Year Enhancement | 6a+ | ||||
6 | The Gwyn Evans Memorial Mini-Roundabout | VS 4c | ||||
7 | Maximum Traffic Flow Management | 6a | 9m | |||
8 | A.V.C's | 4b | 9m | |||
9 | SIPP | 6a | 9m | |||
10 | Draw Down | 6b | ||||
11 | Chocolate Flake | 5c | 9m | |||
12 | That's No Teddy Bear | 4c | 9m | |||
13 | Crawling Stone | E1 5a | 9m | |||
14 | Three Year Fear | 6b+ | ||||
15 | Out to Pasture | 6b | ||||
16 | Golden Handshake | 6b+ | ||||
17 | Mond Melts Hiroshima | 5c | ||||
18 | Nice in Glais | 6a | ||||
19 | Ice In Glais | 6b | ||||
20 | Spare The Birch | 4c | ||||
21 | Confidently Clipping The Corroded Contents of Goi'sGrandadsCabin | 5c | ||||
22 | Creaking Flakes | 5c | ||||
23 | Friends in High Places | E1 5b | ||||
24 | Pension Fund | 6a | ||||
25 | Ass Bandit | 6a+ | ||||
26 | Life Time Average | 6a | 9m |
1.19. Craig Cwm 64 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.730714, -3.911180
1.20. Cilfrew Edge 105 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.682795, -3.786681