Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Tectonic Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky | 18m | |||||
5.9 | Excellent, Slithers | 12m | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ Serpentine | 15m, 6 | |||||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Oompa Loompa Land | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Oompa | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10d | ★★ The Glass Elevator | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
sustained, warm up your fingers for pockets!
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | |||||||
5.11c | ★ Naked and Dead Alt Start | 15m | |||||
5.9 |
★ The Naked and the Dead P1
1
| 45m | |||||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Salt Lake City | |||||||
Ferguson Canyon The Watchtower Watchtower Tiers | |||||||
5.11b/c | ★ Drunk Punk Oi | 27m | ★ Good | ||||
5.12a | ★ Condor | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Uncensored Society | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Salt Lake City | |||||||
Ferguson Canyon The Watchtower Watchtower Main | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Extreme Unction | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.6 | ★ The Confessional | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships East Ship River Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Feel the Chi | 6 | |||||
★★ Time to Power (Pitch 1) | 30m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||||
I actually loved this climb. It flows really nicely, and when you get to the top, you look up at pitch two in awe of the amazing overhang. Hope I get to climb the whole thing one day
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5.8 | ★★ Time to Shower | 5 | |||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Picnic Lunch Wall Area Picnic Lunch Wall | |||||||
5.10a Easy | ★★ Honey Pot | 24m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Zebra Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Five Gallon Buckets | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Natural Bridge Region The Zoo | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Chimp | 18m | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Monkey in the Middle | 25m, 8 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ One Brick Shy | 8 | |||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Land Before Time Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ryanosaurus - with Mark Hoggard | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
jumpy feet to get off the ledge. Otherwise chill
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5.8 | ★★ Prehistoric Extermination - with Mark Hoggard | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
fun cruisy chill
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Sunnyside | |||||||
5.9 ~5.7 | ★★ Jacobs Ladder - with Mark Hoggard | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
pockethon!!
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5.9 | ★ Kokopeli's Dream - with Mark Hoggard | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
sequency set of moves on the arete. Fun look ing piece of rock
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Trundling Kentucky - with Mark Hoggard | 15m, 5 | |||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Tectonic Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
big pockets are fun
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5.10a | ★★ Plate Tectonics - with Mark Hoggard | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
bottom 2 mt was wet from all the rain which didn't induce heaps of confidence for polished starting feet..fun after that.
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Devil's Lake State Park | |||||||
The East Bluff Balanced Rock Area Box Canyon | |||||||
5.4 | Whamus | ||||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Shawangunks | |||||||
Peterskill | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Pencel & Johnny's Arete - with Kate Pechenkina, Alex | ||||||
Too exhausted, gave up after first few moves.
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5.10a | Nutmaster Direct - with Kate Pechenkina, Alex | 15m | |||||
Attempted direct campus start 5.10a variation. Can heel hook but can't reach the next hold. Maybe fresh?
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5.8 | ★★ Nutmaster - with Kate Pechenkina, Alex | 15m | |||||
Normal 8 variation from the right around the arête clean.
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5.8 | ★★ A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man - with Kate Pechenkina, Alex | 15m | |||||
Again to top out and move rope
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5.8 | ★★ A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man - with Kate Pechenkina, Alex | 15m | |||||
Some tiny holds. Went up left block to get onto wall. Anchor was at Nutmaster though.
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5.10b | Bent Crank Arm — 3 attempts - with Kate Pechenkina, Alex | ||||||
One hard move over the roof. No great holds, fell and got pulled up. Tried again after a break and still couldn't. Very tired after these attempts.
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5.8 | Off Limits - with Kate Pechenkina, Alex | ||||||
Fell. Wet crack too slippery.
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5.7 | ★★ First Day - with Kate Pechenkina, Alex | ||||||
Decent. Some moves. TRonsight.
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Sat 18th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Below The New Wave | |||||||
5.6 | Sixth Sense | 9m, 5 | |||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
New Wave Wall | |||||||
5.9 ~5.8 | ★★ Night Crawlers | 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Upper Yosemite Falls | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Lost Arrow Spire Tip | 76m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Epic day out in an absurd position with Yosemite falls putting on a show with peak flow of the year after all the snow melt.
Ethan and I brainstormed this one the night before and decided it sounded like a good idea - no real beta to go off we just took everything and went. 3500ft of elevation with a big pack was a slog, had a lot of tourists in awe of whatever we were doing. Crazy amount of fixed ropes at the top (6) definitely needs a garbage disposal job. Fixed the 80m rope - which was clutch, a 70m would've required coming off rappel onto some extremely suspect traversing. Mixture of free and aid on the first pitch - 3 x #4s were again a good call. Second pitch was the technical aid, which is absolutely eased of all hooks by God's greatest gift in Yosemite - a rack of totems. Trusting a half engaged totem took a hot second, but it's bomb as the package says. Also turns out carrot bolts (rivets) back in Australia aren't so special, they exist here too - but they don't take plates, just nuts or actual rivet hangers which of course we didn't have. Sick position on the pitch then a bolt ladder to finish. Got to the top, figured neither of us have ever rigged a tyrolean before but it was pretty easy to figure out. The rope access course I did before coming here actually paid off here in making it easier. Jugging the tyrolean was the hardest part of the day. Everything went perfectly??? We were both shocked. Yosemite animal bingo was on fire on the walk off. Saw a Marmot, peregrine, brown bear and cub, California king snake, Alex Honnold on his bike at camp 4. |
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Fri 17th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Natural Bridge Region Roadside Crag | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Valor Over Discretion | 15m | |||||
5.10b | ★★ A.W.O.L. | 15m | |||||
5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | |||||
Fri 17th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Along Road 211 Supercrack Buttress | |||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Incredible Hand Crack | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hung once. Gnarly roof!
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5.10b | ★★ Gorilla Crack | 34m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Estrenando cams!!!
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Fri 17th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ The Nutcracker Suite | 180m | |||||
Fri 17th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
The Parking Lot Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Chloe's Breakfast Special | 33m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 17th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Waterfall gives you a great mist on a hot day.
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Thu 16th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Northern Gorge Region Fortress Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Calypso I - Direct Start - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sequency direct start with a bazillion chalked up holds. The crack itself was pleasant but there were some laybacky sections. Pretty good overall
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5.7 | ★ Calypso II - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | |||||
sandy locks and jams
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5.8 | ★★ Snake - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | |||||
some good moves with a tricky sequence when the crack widens..
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5.6 |
★★★ Bedtime for Bonzo
- with
Mark Hoggard
1
2
| 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Fun but too short. Also polished af
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5.7 | ★★ Party Time - with Mark Hoggard | 43m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
a lethargic copperhead creeped out of the base of the crack shortly after Mark started climbing. Made for some spicy climbing and realisations of primordial shit.. good movement on this one
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5.4 ~5.6 | ★ American Crack - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | |||||
Moist start but dry otherwise
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Thu 16th May 2024 - Salt Lake City | |||||||
Little Cottonwood Canyon Boulders Secret Garden All Thumbs Boulder | |||||||
V0 | ★★ Direct North Face Of Shothole | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V1 | Where Have The Holds Gone | 3m | |||||
Thu 16th May 2024 - Salt Lake City | |||||||
Little Cottonwood Canyon Boulders Secret Garden Goldy Area | |||||||
V0 | ★ The Offwidth | ★ Good | |||||
Thu 16th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Seasame Street | ||||||
Thu 16th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Jimmy Cliff Right | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ The Junco | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 16th May 2024 - Salt Lake City | |||||||
Little Cottonwood Canyon Boulders Secret Garden Copperhead Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Lances Dihedral | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V4 | ★★ Twisted | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V0 | ★ Slab 2 | 6m | |||||
V0 | Slab | 6m | |||||
Thu 16th May 2024 - L'escalade Fitness | |||||||
Climbing Routes Toprope Area | |||||||
5.10 | 56-White — 2 attempts | 15m | |||||
5.8 | 56-Yellow | 15m | |||||
5.9 | 44-Green | 15m | |||||
5.8 | 40-Yellow | 15m | |||||
5.7 | 42-Red | 15m | |||||
5.7 | 40-Red | 15m | |||||
Wed 15th May 2024 - Potash Road | |||||||
Wall Street Reflector Post #5 | |||||||
5.11b ~5.11c | ★★ Fernando | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Nervous In Suburbia | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 15th May 2024 - Potash Road | |||||||
Wall Street Reflector Post #6 | |||||||
5.10a ~5.10b | ★★ Ananab | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Onsight and then #barefoot
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5.11b | ★★★ Static Cling | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 15th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | Hawleywood | 24m, 8 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Holey Gully | 21m | |||||
Wed 15th May 2024 - Denver | |||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Canal Zone | |||||||
5.10a Easy | ★★ Buckets of Rain - 10.a | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
trust your feet for the last move, with the side pull no issue.
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5.8 | ★ Holiday Road | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
ending is hard between the last bolt and the anchors, I may have cheated but couldn't find any holds.
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5.8 | Venice Beach | 23m | Average | ||||
Nice route, lots of ledges
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5.8 | ★ Ripple | 23m | Average | ||||
Hard start with a high first bolt
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Wed 15th May 2024 - Indian Creek Canyon | |||||||
Trick Or Treat Wall | |||||||
5.10 | ★★ Q | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tue 14th May 2024 - Castle Valley | |||||||
Castleton Tower | |||||||
5.9 III |
★★★ North Chimney
1
2
3
4
| 120m | |||||
Tue 14th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Triple Corners | |||||||
5.8 | Sun Bowl | ||||||
Tue 14th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
The 5.8 Crag | |||||||
5.7 | ★ The 5.8 Crack By The Road | ||||||
5.8 | The Terrace | 12m, 4 | |||||
Mon 13th May 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy - with Sascha | 170m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A great last route of the trip. I'll be back
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Mon 13th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Fool Effect - with Mark Hoggard | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
packs a lot of variety. Bouldery start, techy slab, powerful layback, and a roof to finish it off. Sick! Saw Joe while belaying Mark lol
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval - with Mark Hoggard | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
pretty burly for a slab. Found the perfect thumb pinch hold..
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Totally-clipse - with Mark Hoggard | 23m, 5 | |||||
gnaaaaarly move in the middle using slopey small pad for both hands..uhhh..
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Mon 13th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.10b R | ★★★ Angel's Arete - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
gorgeous arete! Some really sweet moves. Would be mad scary to lead on trad..
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5.8 | ★★ Zag - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
found the start to be quite demanding but maybe it was just sore muscles from super crack..
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5.7 | ★★ Easily Flakey - with Mark Hoggard | 85m | |||||
rip big red nut. Got to learn to commit to laybacks hey..
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Oompa Loompa Land | |||||||
5.10c Hard | ★★★ Loompa | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 13th May 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Left End | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ EGBG | 27m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 13th May 2024 - Boulder | |||||||
Eldorado Canyon State Park Eldorado Canyon North Redgarden Wall Ruper Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Ruper - with Miyuki | 170m | |||||
led p1, seconded p2. classic, would come back for this
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Calavera Lake | |||||||
Planet Space Ball | |||||||
V0- PG13 | Do It For Mel — 2 attempts | 6m | |||||
V0+ | May Gription Be With You | 3m | |||||
V0 | Darth Crack | 3m | |||||
V0 | Moranis Face | 3m | Average | ||||
Mon 13th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Misdemeanor | 33m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 13th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Idiots Deluxe | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I think I missed some of the jugs
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Thou Shalt Not Covet | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good |