Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Lower Dream Canyon Plotinus Wall | |||||||
5.13a ~5.13a | ★★★ Lucid Dreaming - with Lizzy Jane | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mostly went up here to retrived a bail carabiner, but it looked cool so I tried it. Amazing route, just didn't have time to work it
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5.11a | ★★ The Scientist - with Lizzy Jane | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Almost felt as hard as Rise of the Slothes, so take that how you will.. classic granite slab
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5.11d | ★★ The Bobsled - with Lizzy Jane | 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thugguy underclings to a finger crack around a roof
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5.11b | ★★ Sleepless in Boulder - with Lizzy Jane | 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Golden Summer - with Lizzy Jane | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I accidentally thought this was a sports route and didn't bring any trad gear. It turned into ~6m runouts between bolts, so I switched to no-fall mode. Still a good climb
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5.11a | ★ Tooth Fairy Variation - with Lizzy Jane | 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Slightly stiff warm-up. I didn't expect it to be as technical as it was
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Mon 6th May 2024 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Lower Dream Canyon Plotinus Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Snooze Button - with Miyuki | 9 | |||||
one sit - reachy and stiffer than I expect for BoCan. possibly would have been easier had I not been tripping on ski pants or been able to see my feet (apparently I didn't have thermals in the car) but they were justified when the wind and rain turned into actual snow
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon The Narrows Avalon Second Tier Tarot Wall | |||||||
5.10a Hard | ★★★ The Tower | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Lust | 27m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.12c | ★★★ Fapanese Direct | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Awesome send!! Thought the holds at the lip of the roof would be better. I’m glad it ocurred to me to do the kneebar in the moment, as I’m sure that is the easiest beta and set me up nicely for the send!! Was a bit scared/nervous on the headwall but it all worked out great.
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Lower Dream Canyon Plotinus Wall | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Lucky Strikes — 2 attempts - with Ethan, Jake, Blair | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First go putting on draws for everyone to try. Second go was meant to be a beta burn but ended up clipping the chains (after some noises came out). Too boulder bro for my liking haha
#2ndgo
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5.10a | ★★★ Mr. Sandman - with Ethan, Jake, Blair | 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Night climb. Was seeping from the days before rain
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Lazy Day | 18m, 5 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Free Willie | 24m | |||||
Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Isn't Life Strange | 32m, 14 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ Talking Out of Turn | 35m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Is It Ready Yet...Moe | 21m | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Animal Riots Activist | 14m, 7 | |||||
Got it 2nd go. Great fun! One sequence wonder, but glad to have pushed through.
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Fri 22nd Sep 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.7 | Crack Corner | 15m | |||||
Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Cob Rock Area Cob Rock North Face | |||||||
5.7 |
★★ Empor
1
30
2
37
| 67m | |||||
5.7 |
★★ North Face Center
1
30
2
37
| 67m | |||||
Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon The Narrows Avalon Second Tier Tarot Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Tower - with Chrissy | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Flowy warmup up a meandery slab, to a rooflet, to a stem, etc. A tour of the basics of Boulder Canyon, basically.
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5.12c | ★★★ Fapanese Direct — 5 attempts - with Chrissy | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
First 12c outside of El Chonta this year! Very much up my alley. Easy climbing to slopers and a powerful-to-place kneebar on a roof, followed by intertwined crimp traversing and powerful moves on the lip of the roof. Pumpy climbing follows. Thank you Chrissy for the belay and video!!!
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Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Lower Dream Canyon Plotinus Wall | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Lucky Strikes - with Flo | 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Best flash of the year, and best in a long time! Flo went first and figured out the moves and set the draws. His beta fit my style perfectly. Bouldery first section followed by 5.11 pumpy climbing with thinnish feet. Excellent feeling, right when the sun was beginning to peek at the wall! Stoked! Flo got it straight after
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5.10a | ★★★ Mr. Sandman - with Flo | 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great way to start the day (7 AM session)! Flo set the draws on this long, varied, meandery expedition, and I did it next for warm up. Nice to be in a place in Boulder Canyon without view of the highway, and instead the sound and view of forests, mountains, and waterfalls.
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Across From The Bihedral Cascade Crag | |||||||
5.10b | Thunderhead | 21m | |||||
5.10c | Quick Silver | 21m | |||||
5.8 | Reunion | 23m | |||||
5.11b | Lightning Strike | 15m | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Spooked | 27m | |||||
5.10c | Rain Delay | 27m | |||||
Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Sport Park Surprising Crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Mercy Drilling - with Datus | 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
OMG!! Hardest flash all year!! I had seen Datus' beta, which definitely helped. Unique climb, as it could be a trad climb in that there is jamming in hands, fingers, and feet, with a powerful crux. I screamed through it all, and got through all of it! Incredible feeling. Definitely improved my day, as I had been distracted with other concerning things.
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5.12a/b | ★★★ Curve of Binding Energy — 2 attempts - with Datus | 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great powerful boulder problem on good holds at the bottom followed by chill climbing the rest of the way. Glad I ditched Shakedown Street (12c that was shredding my fingers and just wasn't a ton of fun) for this one!
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon The Bowling Alley | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ A Tall Cool One — 2 attempts - with Mellow Patrick | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tried this Sunday last week with Matt. It had started raining but went for the onsight attempt anyway. Passed the crux and my foot slipped on easy terrain! Got it second go, in my first try today
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5.10b | ★★★ Splitting Hares - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warming up. Interesting moves on curtain-like terrain. Flowy in a way.
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5.11b/c | ★★ Shady Deal - with Mellow Patrick | 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Looks insecure when belaying, but feels OK when climbing because it is exceedingly well bolted. Tricky crux for sure- uncomfortable moves to not-great holds at the end! Stemmy and precise.
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5.11b | ★★ Father Figure - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thin feet at times, cool, long moves. If only it were longer!
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5.10d | ★★ Happy Ending - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very cool route! Did it as the last climb of the day at dusk. Jug hauling pretty much all the way!
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon The Dome Area Elephant Buttresses Third Buttress | |||||||
5.7 |
★★ Standard Root
1
2
| 54m | |||||
Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon The Dome Area Elephant Buttresses Second Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Classic Finger Crack | 15m | |||||
Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Across From The Bihedral Cascade Crag | |||||||
5.10a Easy | ★★ Spooked | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Upper Dream Canyon Lost Angel Main West Face | |||||||
5.12c | ★★ Archangel | ||||||
Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Across From The Bihedral Cascade Crag | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Rain Check - with Ceci Cerrilla, Maddie, Sam | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun and varied climbing at the grade. Thoroughly enjoyed it.
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5.10a | ★ Respect - with Ceci Cerrilla, Maddie, Sam | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
Decent route, found a little knee bar around the crux. Gear pre-placed.
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Security Risk Area The Bihedral The Riviera | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Topless Etiquette | 21m, 6 | |||||
5.9 | Bosch Blanket Bingo | 18m, 6 | |||||
5.11d | Silver Glide | 18m, 6 | |||||
5.10a | New Lease on Life | 15m, 6 | |||||
5.7 | Monte Carlo | 12m, 4 | |||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Sport Park The Clock Tower Upper Wall | |||||||
5.10d | The Big Dipper | 18m, 9 | |||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Sport Park The Clock Tower Chicken Wall | |||||||
5.10a | Mommy Blocker | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Weasel in the Chicken Coop | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Chicken Hawk | 20m, 6 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Rubber Chicken | 15m, 7 | |||||
5.10b | ★ Chicken Delight | 14m, 7 | |||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon The Narrows Avalon Second Tier Tarot Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Lust - with Joe Lee | 27m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.10+ | ★ Cannabis Sportiva - with Joe Lee | ★ Good | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Joint Venture - with Joe Lee | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Animation - with Joe Lee | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Easter Rock | |||||||
5.13a | ★★ Nevermore - with Datus | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Had a session this past Monday as well as past Friday on this beast. I did all the moves within one session! Very psyched to be projecting this. Climbs up Tell Tale Heart, including its crux, to break out roght to a V6/7 sloper boulder problem. The slopers are baaaaad. Definitely a low percentage boulder problem for me, so I need to build endurance to get there really fresh!
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5.12a | ★★★ Empire Of The Fenceless — 2 attempts - with Datus | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Excellent climb! Was inspired by Datus's well-executed send! I had a session where I placed draws, tried Nevermore twice, then warmed down on this this past Monday. Then today I placed draws on it, then tried Nevermore one time, then sent! Balancy and insecure climbing followed by pumpy and balancy moves. What follows is a strenuous reach/throw to an OK crimp. Did the first part quickly and went dynamically for the cruz crimp! Very psyched to get this one. I feel it's one of the more solid 12a's I've done this year (I think this is #22?)
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Security Risk Area The Bihedral Upper Tier | |||||||
5.9 | Hold The Line | 30m | |||||
5.8 | Dan 's Line | 30m | |||||
5.9 | Hold The Line | 30m | |||||
Wet conditions, didn't hold the line 100%.
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Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Easter Rock | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Elanor - with Florian | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Got on this after sending Tell-Tale Heart! It looked onsighteable, so why not try it out? Psyched about the OS. Crimpy layback moves on smeary feet followed by big moves on big holds. Redpoint crux is a big move to an OK 2-pad hold that guards the anchor. Stoked! Florian got TTH right after for the send train!
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5.12b | ★★★ Tell-Tale Heart — 5 attempts - with Florian | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5.12 #21 in 2023! Two sessions: one on 6/8/23 and another today. Started climbing with Florian- great dude to climb with Sent it after placing draws on it and getting flash pumped and falling at the crux. Because these morning sessions are pre-work sessions, there is no such thing as properly resting before burns. Got on it the second time today expecting not to send. I found a sneaky lean-forward rest at the right hand gaston on the crux, and got a lot back- enough to clear the remainder of the crux moves! Don't let your guard down after the rest post-crux- make sure you rest, as you can still fall on the last bit! I know I almost did. Balancy moves at the start lead to a leanback rest, and crux is flexy, big tensiony, shouldery moves on overhanging good edges and slopers. Redpoint crux is going for the last left hand sloper off of another sloper from a splits stance. Solid and classic!
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5.10d | ★ Warm Up - with Florian | ★★ Very Good | |||||
OS'd this years ago (also on 6/8/23), so logging it now as an OS. We used it, as the name suggests, as a warm-up for Tell Tale Heart. 7 AM climbing in rainy afternoons/evenings make for really nice conditions! Watch the crack/transition between the wall on the left and the dihedral- some rope can get stuck there when giving slack for the anchor, and you need to take harder on the anchor than you would think! Techy dihedral with no real hard moves.
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Unfamiliar Strangers | 26m, 10 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Animation | 30m, 10 | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Baby Dog | 27m, 14 | |||||
Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Animal Riots Activist - with Amber, Justin, Alli | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quick dusk climb after photo sesh with Justin's camera! Seems much easier than last time I was here, but still not easy! I'll probably get it next time
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Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Sherwood Forest | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Prince of Thieves — 2 attempts - with Ben | 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quickest 12b in a while! Rode the send train kicked off by Ben after he did his best OS ever! This is #20! Also in a drizzle, just like #19! A couple of boulder problems separated by 5.10 climbing.
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon The Narrows Avalon Second Tier Three Walls | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Free Fall - with Matt, Ella, Flo, Ken | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This is #19. Eveloped in the mist of the Rocky Mountains, I stood on the verge of clipping the anchoors, and thus having climbed more 5.12s than I ever had in a single year, now surpassing my previous best year, which was 2013. Light rain washed away all the self-chasing, all of the nostalgia for better times, and all of my previous life, given my personal circumstances. I now walk uncharted territory, unafraid and excited about the challenges that lay ahead. Did it on my first go of the day whilst placing draws! It felt sooooo much easier than when I was close to sending it a couple of years back. Stuck everything perfectly, and had to do no big effort at the crux. Easy 12a for sure, but 12a nontheless. Clutch moment to get it, as the harder rain began soon afterwards!
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Sport Park Surprising Crag | |||||||
5.10a | Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive - with Heiko | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 ~5.9 | Double Down - with Heiko | 6 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Dutch Oven - with Heiko | ||||||
5.10b ~5.10a | ★ Wavy Gravy - with Heiko | ||||||
5.10a ~5.9 | ★ Vitamin V - with Heiko | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Chasing Sticks - with Heiko | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fri 23rd Dec 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Hillbilly Rocks Hillbilly Rock 1 | |||||||
5.10b | I'Ll Be Dipped | 15m | |||||
Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Animation | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Cob Rock Area Cob Rock Boulder | |||||||
V15 | FA The Player | ||||||
Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Joint Venture | 27m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Contrived
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5.7 | ★★ Baby Dog | 27m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Familiar Strangers | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Days Of Future Passed | 21m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Nip And Tuck Nip | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Finger Crack | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Finger Crack | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Finger Crack | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon The Dome Area The Dome | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ East Slab Alternate | ||||||
Mon 11th Jul 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Easter Rock | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Empire Of The Fenceless — 9 attempts - with Jason Williammee | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond The Boulderado | |||||||
5.5 | Mons | ||||||
Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Easter Rock | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Tell-Tale Heart | ★★★ Classic | |||||
With jenny
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Thu 16th Jun 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Easter Rock | |||||||
5.11c | ★ The Riddler | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Upper Dream Canyon Lost Angel | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Aaarête (AAArete) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 30th May 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Cob Rock Area Sherwood Forest | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Sheriff's Tariff | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 28th May 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Cob Rock Area Sherwood Forest | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Maid Marian | ★ Good | |||||
Mon 9th May 2022 - Boulder | |||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Animal World Lower Animal World | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Animal Riots Activist - with Alex Popinga | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Chickened out instead of clipping the 5th bolt under the lip.
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5.12a | ★★ Animal Riots Activist - with Alex Popinga | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Managed to do the hard clip and find the beta over the lip.
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5.12a | ★★ Animal Riots Activist - with Alex Popinga | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One hang at lip.
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