Buttermilks Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Buttermilks 442 routes in Crag

16 15 29 21 3 22 17 26 23 19 27 24 28 1 18 2 20 25

1 The Peabody Boulders 2 The Egypt Boulders 3 The Birthday Boulders 15 Beehive Area 16 Lidija Boulders 17 Boy And Girl Rocks 18 Green Wall Boulder 19 Fit Homeless Boulder 20 Roadside Area 21 Stained Glass/flyboy Area 22 Never Trust A Man-Bun Boulder 23 Sharma Traverse Boulder 24 Lower Smoking Boulder 25 Upside Boulder 26 Grovel Roof Boulder 27 Bachar Boulder 28 Pinch Boulder 29 Backside Crags

Summary:

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Seasonality

Bouldering, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.318176, -118.587059

description

The Buttermilks is a world renowned bouldering destination near Bishop on the western edge of the Owens Valle, in the Eastern foothills of the Sierra Nevada Range.

approach

The Buttermilks are accessible by car from Bishop via Buttermilk Road.

where to stay

Accommodation is available in nearby Bishop.

1.1. The Peabody Boulders 88 routes in Area

8 4 10 3 5 6 9 2 1

1 Grandpa Peabody 2 Grandma Peabody 3 The Drifter Boulder 4 The Mandala Boulder 5 The Hunk Boulder 6 The Green Wall 8 Saigon Area 9 Sunshine Boulder 10 Womb Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.328778, -118.574777

1.1.1. Grandpa Peabody 13 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328196, -118.574773

description

A huge boulder holding some of the best and most recognised highball boulders in the world

1.1.2. Grandma Peabody 23 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328364, -118.574786

summary

Amazing highball bouldering on great quality rock

description

The smaller (but still huge) of the two Peabody boulders

approach

Walk up to the boulder from the parking lot

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Arete	V1 X	Boulder
2		★★ Go Granny Ho Sit start at good undercling/left facing flake. Climb up and left to underclings, make a move out left to some crimps, then a big move right to finish as for Go Granny Go.	V7	Boulder 13ft
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
3		★★ Go granny GO	{AU} V5	Boulder
4		★ Unnamed	V0-	Boulder
5		Unnamed2	V2	Boulder
6		Unnamed3	V2	Boulder
7		★ Unnamed4	V5	Boulder
8		★★ Baburre	V12	Boulder
9		★★★ Essential Peabody	V0	Boulder 26ft
10		★★★ North Face Direct Steep cranking on massive huecos before a committing sequence to turn the lip, finishing up a slab	V2	Boulder 20ft
11		★ Slipstream Sit start on dual underclings, then big moves on big holds	V4	Boulder 10ft
12		★★ Center Direct Start under the bulge matched on the large undercling into a series of steep, powerful moves on small holds.	V10	Boulder 13ft
13		★★ Direction	V13	Boulder
14		Direct North A direct variant of "Direction".	V14	Boulder
15		★ Thunderbird	V11	Boulder
16		★★ Baburre Short	V11	Boulder
17		★★ The Mystery	V12	Boulder
18		★★ Go Granny Go; Right Finish	V5	Boulder
19		★ West Corner	V4	Boulder
20		★★★ Southwest Arete	5.9 X	Boulder 39ft
21		Magnetic North One of the most classic lines in all of Bishop. Powerful moves with a crux just high enough to encourage self-doubt FFA: Jeff Sillcox FA: Jeff Sillcox	V8	Boulder 33ft
22		Tiers of Uncertainty	V12	Boulder
23		Too Tall to Fall Start as Tiers of Uncertainty but then trends left to join the arête at the top. FA: Miles Adamson, Jan 2020	V10	Boulder 40ft

1.1.3. The Drifter Boulder 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328845, -118.574790

1.1.4. The Mandala Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329101, -118.574934

1.1.5. The Hunk Boulder 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328858, -118.575114

1.1.6. The Green Wall 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328729, -118.575337

approach

walk up the hill from the car park and past Grandpa & grandma then out to the left. green wall, can't miss it!

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ East Rib	V3 R	Boulder 30ft
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		★★★ Green Wall Arete Climb left arête (first you come to from Grandma boulder).	V1	Boulder
3		★★★ Green Wall Essential Between the Arete and Centre. Sidepulls or crack down right to start, then up through delicate techy feet and shallow edges.	V2	Boulder 10ft
4		★★★ Green Wall Center	V6	Boulder

1.1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.1.8. Saigon Area 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329522, -118.575240

1.1.9. Sunshine Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328609, -118.575174

1.1.10. Womb Boulder 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329007, -118.574689

1.2. The Egypt Boulders 75 routes in Area

6 1 5 7 2 3

1 Tut Boulder 2 Rowell Rocks 3 Cave Rock 5 Corner Boulders 6 The Bowling Pin 7 Buttermilk Stem Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.328852, -118.576823

1.2.1. Tut Boulder 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329240, -118.577435

1.2.2. Rowell Rocks 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328819, -118.576814

1.2.3. Cave Rock 19 routes in Area

9

9 Robinson's Rubber Tester Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328670, -118.576618

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Cave Route	V6	Boulder
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		★★ Moonraker	V8	Boulder
3		The Buttermilker	V12	Boulder
4		★★ Pain Grain - Stand Start	V5	Boulder 16ft
5		★★ Pain Grain SDS	V7	Boulder
6		★★★ Soul Slinger	V9	Boulder
7		Dyno problem	V4	Boulder
8		★★ Inner Sanctum	V2	Boulder
10		One Mule Wonder	V8/9	Boulder
11		General Mills	V8	Boulder 20ft
12		Crimps Of Wrath	V10	Boulder
13		Lactose Intolerant	V5	Boulder
14		Little Forgotten	V10	Boulder 25ft
15		Shelter From The Storm	V6	Boulder
16		Gleaming The Cube	V8	Boulder
17		Gleaming The Cube, High Start	V5	Boulder 15ft
18		2D	V5	Boulder 15ft
19		3D	V8	Boulder 15ft

1.2.3.1. Robinson's Rubber Tester Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.328680, -118.576785

1.2.4. Soul Slinger Boulders 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.2.5. Corner Boulders 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329101, -118.577902

1.2.6. The Bowling Pin 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329620, -118.577220

1.2.7. Buttermilk Stem Boulder 20 routes in Boulder

4 3

3 Rowell Rock 4 Pothole Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328896, -118.576768

1.2.7.1. Rowell Rock 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.328786, -118.576861

1.2.7.2. Pothole Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.328867, -118.576625

1.2.8. Robinson's Rubber-Tester Slab 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

1.3. The Birthday Boulders 75 routes in Area

1 4 2 5 8

1 The Loaf 2 Iron Man 4 Pope's Rock 5 Birthday Boulders 8 Hero Roof

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.330225, -118.578396

1.3.1. The Loaf 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.330226, -118.578800

1.3.2. Iron Man 24 routes in Area

12 4 13

4 Hero Roof Boulder 12 Hager Boulder 13 The Golden Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.330061, -118.577933

1.3.2.1. Hero Roof Boulder 10 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329998, -118.578147

1.3.2.2. Hager Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.330154, -118.577749

1.3.2.3. The Golden Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329968, -118.577833

1.3.3. Golden Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.3.4. Pope's Rock 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.330134, -118.578518

1.3.5. Birthday Boulders 14 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.330038, -118.579005

1.3.6. Bulging Grain Boulder 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.3.7. Tortoise Shell Patinas 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.3.8. Hero Roof 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.329945, -118.578277

1.3.9. Ranger Rock 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.4. Wrangler Rock 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5. Dune 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.6. Skin Diver 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing and Trad climbing

1.7. Surveyor Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.8. South Mount Klieforth 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.9. The Owl 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.9.1. West Side 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.2. South Side 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10. The Slab 17 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.10.1. East Side 10 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.2. South Side 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.11. Wavelength Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.12. Windy Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.12.1. Left Side 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.12.2. Right Side 10 routes in Area

Summary:

1.13. The "Y" Bouder 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.14. Grouse Mountain 13 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.14.1. Gemstone Buttress 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.14.2. Diamondback Buttress 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.15. Beehive Area 18 routes in Field

2 3 4 1

1 Luminance Block 2 Brown Wall 3 Secrets Of The Beehive Area 4 Form Destroyer Roof Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.336501, -118.576681

1.15.1. Luminance Block 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.335995, -118.576991

description

Home to some of the tallest high-balls of the planet!

1.15.2. Brown Wall 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.337020, -118.576028

1.15.3. Secrets Of The Beehive Area 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.336938, -118.576025

1.15.3.1. Natural Melody Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.336772, -118.576153

1.15.3.2. The Flake Crack Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.337112, -118.575898

1.15.3.3. Queen Sweet Nectar Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.336836, -118.576016