The easiest route up Devils Tower and likely the most climbed route up the tower. Newer crack climbers often struggle, frequently insisting it's severely sandbagged.
This climb is best recognized by the right-leaning pillar on the left flank of the south face.
Approach: from the parking lot, go up the paved trail and take the branch that goes counter-clockwise around the tower. Walk along the path until you encounter a pair of metal viewing tubes. Follow the obvious climbers trail until it reaches the cliff, at the base of the "bowling alley".
There are a number of variations to exactly where the climb starts, and how the pitches are counted. The following seems to be a common choice:
5.5 Climb one of a number of cracks up to a bolted anchor (80 ft), sling this with a long runner, then traverse left on 4th class terrain to a tree below the base of the leaning pillar. Belay off the tree or build a gear anchor on a comfortable ledge below the tree. (Some split the traverse into a seperate pitch.)
5.6 (70ft) Leaning Column -- Climb up to the base of the leaning then up the left side of the pillar to a bolted anchor.
5.7 (70ft) Durrance Crack -- Climb up a pair of cracks to another bolted anchor atop a pillar. Often combined with the Leaning Column.
5.6 (30ft) Cussin' Crack -- Climb the off-width to a small ledge, then traverse right and up an easy short crack to the next ledge and another bolted anchor.
5.5 (40ft) Flake Crack -- Climb the flake-filled crack to an off-width finish to another bolted anchor on another bid ledge. Often combined with Cussin' Crack.
5.5 (40ft) Chockstone Crack -- Climb up the chockstone-filled chimney to a steep finish over a chockstone boulder. And, guess what, another bolted belay on another good ledge.
There are two popular finishing options:
8 Sep 1938 | First ascent: Jack Durrance & Harrison Butterworth |
---|
5.7 | Assigned grade |
5.10a [5.10a - 5.10b] ++ | grAId |
5.6 | Classic Rock #07 Devils Tower/Black Hills: Needles, Wyoming and South Dakota |
Overall quality 72 from 43 ratings.
Author(s): Sam Lightner
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9781493016129
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
Login to see the timeline!