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Phantom Spires

Seasonality

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F
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Description

A hillside above highway 50 covered with tiny crags and boulders, and a few main towering spires of granite.

Amongst a barren rock field you will find many traditional routes, along with some more difficult sport and mixed routes in an excellent, yet unsheltered setting that's almost eerie at times. Watching other parties climb is easy, since there are absolutely no trees surrounding the spires.

You can climb here from late fall to early summer before it gets too hot, and even in the winter on heavy drought years.

The black and white granite of The Phantom Spires will remind you of Yosemite, but like most Tahoe granite, isn't as glasslike.

Approach

The original developers hoofed it uphill from highway 50. Today we have the luxury of a rarely maintained logging road. Low clearance cars must park on Wrights Lake Road, which adds about a mile of walking each way to the approach. The dirt road is closed seasonally during snow cover, check with Eldorado National Forest's website for current status.

Ethic

Trad rules. Bolts are only tolerated on new lines where no traditional pro can be had. If in doubt, don't drill.

History

History timeline chart

These formerly phantom rocks were unleashed from their concealment by a forest fire in the 1980s.

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Lizard Head sector
 Aid climbing,  Top roping and other styles
6
4
30ft
1
 Trad climbing,  Rock climbing and other styles
32
66
110ft
5
21
106
72ft
4
True Grit sector
2
1
39ft
 Trad climbing,  Rock climbing and other styles
13
4
89ft

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Chris McNamara

Date: 2004

ISBN: 9780967239170

SuperTopo:
Focusing on top-rope, crags and multi-pitches in the 5.7 to 5.11 range, South Lake Tahoe Climbing is your guide to more than 250 of the best routes in the region.

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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