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Chica Bonita Wall

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Access issues inherited from Southern Region

Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices. All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners. Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear. Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails. No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted. No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose. Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.

Approach

Take Bald Rock Fork Road down the steep hill and pass the Motherlode parking lot on the right. Continue past the Flat Holler parking lot on the left and eventually turn left into the Bob Marley/Drive-By parking lot. Walk back the way you came on Bald Rock Fork and take the trail on the left up hill to reach Chica Bonita.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Sarah Gross & Troy Davison, 2014

FA: Dan Beck & Matt Tackett, 2008

Small gear for slab up high.

FA: Dan Beck & Nicole Bunda, 2008

No anchors.

FA: Jason Haas, 2005

FA: Troy Davison, 2014

FA: Jenny Ryan, Mark Ryan, Keith Raker & O’Neil Arnold, 2009

FA: Jenny Ryan, Mark Ryan & Keith Raker, 2009

FA: Jason Haas & Matt Tackett, 2005

FA: Jared Hancock, Matt Tackett, Mike Cole & Mark Ryan, 2006

FA: Jesse New, Mike Cole & Jared Hancock, 2006

Great technical movement onto overhanging pockets.

FA: Don McGlone & John, 2006

FA: Blake Bowling, 2009

FA: Merrick Schaefer & Matt Tackett, 2005

FA: Jared Hancock, Karla Hancock, Mark Ryan & Jenny Ryan, 2006

FA: Mark Ryan & Jenny Ryan, 2006

FA: Aika Yoshida, Barry Brolley, Mark Ryan & JJ, 2008

FA: Jason Haas & Cory Weber, 2005

FA: Jason Haas & Matt Tackett, 2005

FA: Jordan Wood & Jason Haas, 2005

One of the best and longest in its class, is definitely worth a visit to Chica Bonita Wall. Climb the gorgeous right angling crack unti it ends with rap anchors.

FA: Matt Tackett & Jason Haas, 2005

Technical, slabby face climbing

FA: Nick Walker, Jared Hancock & Mark Ryan, 2006

Technical face climbing

FA: Amy Tackett & Matt Tackett, 2006

FA: Matt & Amy Tackett, 2005

FA: Don McGlone, 2007

FA: Matt Tackett & Don McGlone, 2007

FA: Don McGlone & Matt Tackett, 2006

FA: Natasha Fischer, Reece Nelson Ron Batemen & Matt Tackett, 2007

FA: Matt Tackett & Don McGlone, 2007

Technical, committing face climbing

FA: Dan Beck & Matt Tackett, 2007

FA: Dan Beck, Matt Tackett & Don McGlone, 2007

FA: Ben Strohmeier & Dan Beck, 2008

FA: Dan Beck & Matt Tackett, 2008

FA: Sam Elias & Beck Kloss, 2005

V3 boulder off the ground, 10c in the guidebook.

FA: Scott Curran, 2013

FA: Scott Curran, 2013

FA: Scott Curran, 2013

FA: Dan Beck, 2008

FA: Jason Haas & Cory Weber, 2005

FA: Kipp Trummel & Scott Brown, 2011

FA: Kipp Trummel & Russ Jackson, 2011

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Brendan Leader

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9780645299915

Onsight Photography:
Comprehensive Sport Climbing Crags of the Red River Gorge, Kentucky

The Red River Gorge in Kentucky is one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the world and the 2nd edition of The Red guidebook has all the info you need to plan your next climbing adventure.

  • 2nd edition adds 245 new climbs, 4 brand new crags, fresh action shots, additional topo shots and maps plus improvements to overall usability
  • Includes details and descriptions of 2,586 routes and 106 crags

Author(s): Dario Ventura and Mike Williams

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781938393327

Wolverine :
Selected from the area's more than 3,000 routes across 54 crags, Red River George Select presents enough classics to fill a lifetime of weekend climbing fun in Kentucky.
  • Index of classic routes highlights the grade of each climb and indicates if the climb is better suited to sport or trad climbing
  • Helpful icons help you plan your day with driving times, walking times, sun exposure, rain protection and kid-friendliness
  • GPS coordinates and detailed directions help you find your destination easily

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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