A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Gibbs Keoni "Come on Obe" Onsaga Glen "Spray n Chuff" Tsie Richard Pattison Manolo Ruiz isra17 David Martin Adam Straw Kent Krauza Justin Case
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Red Rock
2052 in Crag
-
1.1.
Calico Basin 512 in Crag
-
1.1.1.
Red Spring Area 191 in Crag
- 1.1.1.1. Moderate Mecca 28 in Cliff
- 1.1.1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock / Red Springs Rock, Lower Tier 10 in Cliff
- 1.1.1.3. Red Spring Rock 14 in Cliff
- 1.1.1.4. Coco Crag 9 in Cliff
- 1.1.1.5. Cannibal Crag 23 in Cliff
- 1.1.1.6. Sweet Tooth Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.1.7. Riding Hood Wall 7 in Cliff
- 1.1.1.8. Ranch Hands Crag 13 in Area
- 1.1.1.9. Dickies Cliff 6 in Area
- 1.1.1.10. Gnat Man Crag 7 in Area
- 1.1.1.11. Happy Acres 8 in Area
- 1.1.1.12. Alternative Crag 9 in Crag
- 1.1.1.13. Existential Wall 5 in Unknown
- 1.1.1.14. Cowlick Crag 5 in Area
- 1.1.1.15. Hide-and-Seek Crag 1 in Crag
- 1.1.1.16. Cut Your Teeth Crag 3 in Crag
- 1.1.1.17. Strategic Arms Wall 21 in Area
- 1.1.1.18. Red Spring Bouldering 21 in Field
-
1.1.2.
Kraft Mountain 320 in Crag
- 1.1.2.1. West Kraft Boulders 11 in Field
- 1.1.2.2. Kraft Boulders 188 in Field
- 1.1.2.3. Kraft Crags 11 in Cliff
- 1.1.2.4. The Mall 0 in Cliff
- 1.1.2.5. Gateway Canyon 110 in Crag
-
1.1.3.
Calico Basin Bouldering 1 in Area
- 1.1.3.1. Mr. Smiley boulders 1 in Field
-
1.1.1.
Red Spring Area 191 in Crag
-
1.2.
First Pullout 247 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Ultraman Wall 10 in Area
- 1.2.2. The J Wall 3 in Area
- 1.2.3. The Hamlet 15 in Area
- 1.2.4. The Amusement Park 9 in Cliff
- 1.2.5. Panty Wall 23 in Cliff
- 1.2.6. The Slab 10 in Cliff
- 1.2.7. Tiger Stripe Wall 4 in Cliff
- 1.2.8. Tuna and Chips Wall 16 in Cliff
- 1.2.9. The Oasis 14 in Area
- 1.2.10. The Fixx Cliff 16 in Area
- 1.2.11. Dog Wall 8 in Area
- 1.2.12. Circus Wall 12 in Area
- 1.2.13. Meat Puppets Wall 9 in Area
- 1.2.14. Cactus Massacre 10 in Area
- 1.2.15. Universal City 6 in Area
- 1.2.16. Climb Bomb Cliff 4 in Area
- 1.2.17. Velvet Elvis Crag 5 in Area
- 1.2.18. Bowling Ball 1 in Area
- 1.2.19. Viagra Towers 5 in Cliff
- 1.2.20. Classic Rock Wall 21 in Crag
- 1.2.21. The Black Hole 5 in Area
- 1.2.22. Civilization Crag 17 in Crag
- 1.2.23. Jessica’s Wall 6 in Crag
- 1.2.24. Carly Quinn Crag 8 in Cliff
-
1.2.25.
Dante's Wall 10 in Crag
- 1.2.25.1. Right (Main) Wall 8 in Area
- 1.2.25.2. Left Wall 2 in Area
-
1.3.
Second Pullout 230 in Crag
-
1.3.1.
Second Pullout Boulders 18 in Area
- 1.3.1.1. Desert Rain & adjacent 1 in Field
- 1.3.1.2. The Gallery 0 in Sector
- 1.3.1.3. Meister's Edge Area 0 in Sector
- 1.3.1.4. Drainage Area 17 in Area
- 1.3.1.5. The Sanctuary 0 in Area
- 1.3.2. Iron Man Wall 9 in Crag
- 1.3.3. Tsunami Wall 12 in Area
- 1.3.4. Trundle Wall 6 in Area
- 1.3.5. Jane's Wall 11 in Area
- 1.3.6. Truancy Cliff 3 in Area
- 1.3.7. The Arena 2 in Area
- 1.3.8. Rescue Wall 3 in Area
- 1.3.9. Magic Bus 6 in Cliff
- 1.3.10. Kitty Crag 3 in Area
- 1.3.11. The Sandbox 9 in Area
- 1.3.12. Ethics Wall 4 in Area
-
1.3.13.
The Black Corridor 38 in Cliff
- 1.3.13.1. South Wall, Lower Level / Left Wall, Lower Level 10 in Sector
- 1.3.13.2. North Wall, Lower Level / Right Wall, Lower Level 13 in Sector
- 1.3.13.3. South Wall, Upper Level / Left Wall, Upper Level 8 in Sector
- 1.3.13.4. North Wall, Second Story / Right Wall, Upper Level 7 in Sector
- 1.3.14. Hunter S. Thompson Dome 9 in Area
- 1.3.15. Poser Crag 2 in Area
- 1.3.16. Meetup Wall 10 in Crag
- 1.3.17. Great Red Book Area 20 in Cliff
- 1.3.18. Meister's Edge Area 7 in Area
- 1.3.19. Sweet Pain Wall 10 in Area
- 1.3.20. Pet Wall 4 in Area
- 1.3.21. Stone Wall 8 in Area
- 1.3.22. The Observatory 4 in Cliff
- 1.3.23. The Gallery 20 in Area
- 1.3.24. Wall of Confusion 11 in Area
- 1.3.25. California 12a 1 in Area
-
1.3.1.
Second Pullout Boulders 18 in Area
-
1.4.
Sandstone Quarry 291 in Area
-
1.4.1.
Sandstone Quarry East 54 in Area
- 1.4.1.1. Parking Lot Area 1 in Crag
- 1.4.1.2. Front Corridor 17 in Area
- 1.4.1.3. Winston Wall 1 in Unknown
- 1.4.1.4. California Crags 11 in Area
- 1.4.1.5. The Pier 17 in Area
- 1.4.1.6. Americrag 7 in Area
-
1.4.2.
Running Man Wall Area 62 in Area
- 1.4.2.1. Boschton Marathon Block 4 in Area
- 1.4.2.2. Running Man Wall 30 in Area
- 1.4.2.3. Stratocaster Wall 24 in Area
- 1.4.2.4. B/W Wall 4 in Area
-
1.4.3.
Sandstone Quarry Central 71 in Area
- 1.4.3.1. Sandy Corridor 5 in Cliff
- 1.4.3.2. Sonic Youth Cliff 11 in Cliff
- 1.4.3.3. The Asylum 3 in Cliff
- 1.4.3.4. Broast and Toast Cliff 8 in Cliff
- 1.4.3.5. Numbers Crag 8 in Cliff
- 1.4.3.6. Common Time 4 in Cliff
- 1.4.3.7. Wake Up Wall 26 in Cliff
- 1.4.3.8. The Grindhouse 6 in Cliff
-
1.4.4.
Sandstone Quarry North 56 in Area
- 1.4.4.1. The Twinkie 7 in Area
- 1.4.4.2. The Marshmallow 2 in Area
- 1.4.4.3. The Bull Market 7 in Area
- 1.4.4.4. Satellite Wall 4 in Area
- 1.4.4.5. Avian Wall 4 in Area
- 1.4.4.6. The Trophy 14 in Area
- 1.4.4.7. Secret 13 18 in Area
-
1.4.5.
Sandstone Quarry Northeast 38 in Area
- 1.4.5.1. Blister in the Sun Cliff 4 in Area
- 1.4.5.2. The Beach 7 in Area
- 1.4.5.3. Mass Production Wall 7 in Area
- 1.4.5.4. The Hall of Fame 10 in Area
- 1.4.5.5. Holiday Wall 10 in Area
-
1.4.6.
James Brown Area 10 in Area
- 1.4.6.1. James Brown Wall 3 in Area
- 1.4.6.2. Next Wall 5 in Area
- 1.4.6.3. The Sweet Spot 2 in Area
-
1.4.1.
Sandstone Quarry East 54 in Area
-
1.5.
White Rock Spring Peak / White Rock Springs Area 40 in Crag
- 1.5.1. Sheep Skull Crags 6 in Cliff
- 1.5.2. Ledger Crags 3 in Cliff
- 1.5.3. Angel Food Wall 13 in Cliff
- 1.5.4. The Enclaves 3 in Crag
-
1.5.5.
White Rock Springs Bouldering 14 in Field
- 1.5.5.1. Stooge Boulders 12 in Field
- 1.5.5.2. Seinfeld 2 in Boulder
-
1.6.
Willow Spring 125 in Area
- 1.6.1. Nadia's Niche 3 in Area
- 1.6.2. N'Plus Ultra Area 7 in Area
- 1.6.3. Lost Creek Canyon (Hidden Falls) 25 in Area
- 1.6.4. Ragged Edges Cliff 24 in Area
- 1.6.5. Graduate Cliff 5 in Area
- 1.6.6. The Case Face 7 in Area
- 1.6.7. Sumo Greatness Slab 3 in Area
- 1.6.8. Mother’s Crag 5 in Area
- 1.6.9. Outhouse Wall 6 in Area
- 1.6.10. The Dark Thumb 2 in Area
-
1.6.11.
Willow Springs Bouldering 38 in Boulder
- 1.6.11.1. Mystery Canyon 6 in Sector
- 1.6.11.2. Red Rock Wash 4 in Area
- 1.6.11.3. Willow Springs Main Area 28 in Area
-
1.7.
Icebox Canyon 77 in Area
- 1.7.1. Sunnyside Crag 21 in Area
- 1.7.2. Buffalo Wall 2 in Area
- 1.7.3. Hidden Wall 1 in Area
- 1.7.4. Icebox Canyon, South Side 2 in Area
- 1.7.5. Refrigerator Wall 10 in Area
- 1.7.6. Smears For Fears Area 4 in Area
- 1.7.7. Bridge Mountain 1 in Area
- 1.7.8. Frigid Air Buttress 2 in Area
- 1.7.9. The Necromancer 8 in Area
-
1.7.10.
Icebox Canyon Bouldering 26 in Sector
- 1.7.10.1. Ice Box One 5 in Boulder
- 1.7.10.2. Ice Box Two 10 in Boulder
- 1.7.10.3. Buffalo Ball 3 in Boulder
- 1.7.10.4. Admiral Rock 4 in Boulder
- 1.7.10.5. Monoslabistic 4 in Boulder
-
1.8.
Pine Creek Canyon 156 in Crag
-
1.8.1.
Magic Mountain 23 in Crag
- 1.8.1.1. Dependent Variable Area 4 in Cliff
- 1.8.1.2. Magic Triangle Area / Magic Mountain, North Face 19 in Cliff
-
1.8.2.
Juniper Peak 6 in Crag
- 1.8.2.1. Jet Stream Wall 1 in Area
- 1.8.2.2. Crabby Appleton Area 5 in Area
-
1.8.3.
Mescalito / South Fork of Pine Creek Canyon 41 in Crag
- 1.8.3.1. Mescalito, South Face 8 in Cliff
- 1.8.3.2. Mescalito, East Face 19 in Cliff
- 1.8.3.3. Dark Shadows Wall 14 in Cliff
-
1.8.4.
Bridge Mountain / North Fork of Pine Creek Canyon 86 in Crag
- 1.8.4.1. Out of Control Area 6 in Area
- 1.8.4.2. Spectrum Area 8 in Cliff
- 1.8.4.3. Brass Wall 25 in Cliff
- 1.8.4.4. Beer and Ice Gully 10 in Area
- 1.8.4.5. Straight Shooter Wall 5 in Area
- 1.8.4.6. Stick Gully 6 in Cliff
- 1.8.4.7. Flight Path Area 10 in Area
- 1.8.4.8. Gemstone Gully Area 5 in Cliff
- 1.8.4.9. The Abutment 11 in Area
- 1.8.4.10. Eagles Nest 0 in Cliff
-
1.8.1.
Magic Mountain 23 in Crag
-
1.9.
Juniper Canyon 39 in Area
- 1.9.1. Rose Tower 1 in Area
- 1.9.2. Jackrabbit Buttress 4 in Area
- 1.9.3. Brownstone Wall 9 in Area
- 1.9.4. The Rainbow Wall 17 in Area
- 1.9.5. Wall of Cracks 3 in Crag
- 1.9.6. Ginger Buttress 3 in Area
- 1.9.7. Juniper Boulders 2 in Field
-
1.10.
Oak Creek Canyon 66 in Area
- 1.10.1. Solar Slab Area 15 in Area
- 1.10.2. Black Arch Wall 4 in Area
- 1.10.3. Eagle Wall Area 5 in Area
- 1.10.4. Upper Oak Creek Canyon 2 in Area
-
1.10.5.
Mount Wilson 20 in Area
- 1.10.5.1. Afterburner Cliff 5 in Area
- 1.10.5.2. Ramen Pride Cliff 3 in Area
- 1.10.5.3. East Face 9 in Area
- 1.10.5.4. Willy's Couloir 3 in Area
-
1.10.6.
Oak Creek Bouldering 20 in Sector
- 1.10.6.1. Oak Creek Proper 9 in Field
- 1.10.6.2. Oak Creek - hillside right 11 in Field
- 1.11. Mount Wilson 9 in Area
-
1.12.
First Creek Canyon 58 in Area
- 1.12.1. Indecision Peak - Lucky Nuts 2 in Area
- 1.12.2. Lotta Balls Wall 6 in Area
- 1.12.3. Mysterious Ampitheatre 5 in Area
- 1.12.4. Romper Room Area 9 in Area
- 1.12.5. First Creek Slabs 9 in Area
- 1.12.6. The Echove 5 in Unknown
- 1.12.7. Strawberry Hill 9 in Unknown
- 1.12.8. Slippery Peak Apron 3 in Area
- 1.12.9. First Creek Canyon Boulders 1 in Field
-
1.12.10.
First Creek Canyon - Bouldering 9 in Sector
- 1.12.10.1. Trieste Area 0 in Area
- 1.12.10.2. Lower First Creek 9 in Area
- 1.12.10.3. Upper First Creek 0 in Area
-
1.13.
Black Velvet Canyon 92 in Area
- 1.13.1. The Monument 12 in Area
- 1.13.2. Burlap Buttress 5 in Area
- 1.13.3. Whisky Peak 30 in Area
- 1.13.4. Black Velvet Wall 24 in Area
- 1.13.5. Western Spaces Wall 7 in Area
- 1.13.6. Main Boulders 10 in Field
- 1.13.7. Right Fork Boulders 1 in Field
- 1.13.8. Wet Dream 3 in Boulder
-
1.14.
Mud Springs Canyon Bouldering 1 in Field
- 1.14.1. Moonshine Boulder 1 in Boulder
-
1.15.
Windy Canyon 24 in Area
-
1.15.1.
Windy Canyon Bouldering 14 in Field
- 1.15.1.1. Le Cheval 6 in Boulder
- 1.15.1.2. Big Red 2 in Boulder
- 1.15.1.3. The Sting 2 in Boulder
- 1.15.1.4. Daily Dab Dose 1 in Boulder
- 1.15.1.5. The Slug 1 in Boulder
- 1.15.1.6. Lower Fish Head Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.15.1.7. Flat of Angles 1 in Boulder
-
1.15.1.
Windy Canyon Bouldering 14 in Field
-
1.16.
Scorched Earth Boulders 51 in Area
- 1.16.1. Pit Boss Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.16.2. Fired Up 5 in Boulder
- 1.16.3. Flame Retardant 1 in Boulder
- 1.16.4. Hot and Bothered 2 in Boulder
- 1.16.5. Grandall Randstaff 4 in Boulder
- 1.16.6. Bushwick Bill Memorial Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.16.7. Shotgun Arete 3 in Boulder
- 1.16.8. Fire in the Hole 1 in Boulder
- 1.16.9. Burnt Out 1 in Boulder
- 1.16.10. Strickland Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.16.11. FyreFest 3 in Boulder
- 1.16.12. Burnt to a Crimp Boulder 5 in Boulder
- 1.16.13. Smoke Show 3 in Boulder
- 1.16.14. Ashtray 1 in Boulder
- 1.16.15. I'm On Fire 2 in Boulder
- 1.16.16. Burning Rubber 1 in Boulder
- 1.16.17. Bait Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.16.18. Ticki Masala 1 in Boulder
- 1.16.19. Wacky Tabaccy 1 in Boulder
- 1.16.20. Opihi Man 1 in Boulder
-
1.17.
Illusion Crags 20 in Area
- 1.17.1. Left Side 6 in Area
- 1.17.2. Main Cliff 14 in Area
- 1.18. The Promised Land 14 in Sector
-
1.1.
Calico Basin 512 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Red Rock 2,052 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.108949, -115.467391
description
World class climbing on Aztec Sandstone just 20 minutes from Las Vegas. The climbing varies from 2200ft massive multi-pitch trad routes to 45ft single pitch sport routes with something for everyone. Expect the popular and accessible classics to be busy but worth the effort.
1.1. Calico Basin 512 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.158212, -115.416496
description
Calico Basin is the basin on the north side of the Calico Hills, approached by the Calico Basin Road, rather than the main Red Rocks loop road.
access issues
There has been some conflict with residents along Calico Basin Road, please only park in designated parking lots and stay on established trails.
1.1.1. Red Spring Area 191 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.144354, -115.421979
description
These are climbs generally accessed from the Red Springs Picnic Area parking lot, or another parking lot a short distance farther along Calico Basin Drive.
Since these climbs are not accessed from the main loop, but from Calico Basin Drive, you are not stuck driving the (longish) loop road.
|
1.1.1.1. Moderate Mecca 28 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.142523, -115.422666
description
An easily approached cliff with lots of single-pitch trad routes of moderate grade.
descent notes
Generally rappel off anchors. Often several climbs will share a rap anchor.
|
1.1.1.2. Jabba The Hut Rock 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
description
A low cliff band, about 100 yards right of the parking area.
descent notes
Most of the climbs top-out on the large terrace that is the base for Red Springs Rock. Can walk off either side, whichever is closer.
|
1.1.1.3. Red Spring Rock 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.142778, -115.420322
description
A series of buttresses rising from the terrace above Jabba the Hut Rock.
Routes listed right-to-left.
approach
Climb up the steep hillside.
|
1.1.1.4. Coco Crag 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping
description
A varnished wall up and right from Jabba the Hut, it is the right-end of Red Springs wall, but rather than being climbed from the terrace that goes up and leftwards, it is climbed from the gully up and right.
1.1.1.5. Cannibal Crag 23 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing
description
With an easy approach and a variety of good routes at many grades, this is a popular cliff.
approach
Follow the obvious trail west (rightwards) along the hillside. Cannibal Crag is the obvious prow sticking out low on the hillside, just to the left of the trail.
1.1.1.6. Sweet Tooth Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
approach
Directly up from tsunami boulder
|
1.1.1.7. Riding Hood Wall 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.149148, -115.426968
description
A large slabby buttress mid-way up.
|
1.1.1.8. Ranch Hands Crag 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
|
1.1.1.9. Dickies Cliff 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.1.10. Gnat Man Crag 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
1.1.1.11. Happy Acres 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.1.1.12. Alternative Crag 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Small cliff with lots of good climbing!!
1.1.1.13. Existential Wall 5 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
description
Five nice top rope routes with easy access just after Physcial Graffiti wall
1.1.1.14. Cowlick Crag 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.1.1.15. Hide-and-Seek Crag 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.1.1.16. Cut Your Teeth Crag 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.1.1.17. Strategic Arms Wall 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.1.1.18. Red Spring Bouldering 21 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 36.144155, -115.420526
1.1.2. Kraft Mountain 320 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.164792, -115.415344
description
Kraft Mountain is the mass that forms the northern side of Calico Basin, as a crag it includes a number of cliffs on both sides of Gateway Canyon, the canyon between Kraft Mountain and the the ridge north/north-east of it.
approach
From the parking lot/circle where Sandstone drive takes a 90 degree left turn, hike north towards the mountain, then around one side or the other to reach the various cliffs.
1.1.2.1. West Kraft Boulders 11 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
summary
Small group of small boulders.
approach
At the Cube, go left probably about 500 yards.
ethic
Don't climb after it rains.
1.1.2.2. Kraft Boulders 188 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 36.159973, -115.414798
description
Large, popular boulder field at the base of the south side of Kraft Mountain.
1.1.2.3. Kraft Crags 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
description
A low cliff in the middle of the south side of Kraft Mountain, though still a couple hundred feet up from the boulder field.
|
1.1.2.4. The Mall 0 routes in Cliff
description
A set of small south-facing cliffs on the south-east corner of Karft Mountain.
1.1.2.5. Gateway Canyon 110 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.171105, -115.422596
description
This is the canyon along the north side of Kraft Mountain.
approach
Approach from either end, walking around the east side of Kraft Mountain, or over the saddle along the west side of Kraft Mountain.
1.1.3. Calico Basin Bouldering 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
summary
Roughly covers bouldering from Cannibal Crag over to Ash Creek. (in between Red Springs and Kraft)
1.1.3.1. Mr. Smiley boulders 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
approach
Approach as for Alternative/Strategic/Fringe crags into Ash Creek. Boulders are across the canyon on the sunny side. Almost directly across from large dihedral boulder that marks the turn-off for Alternative crag.
1.2. First Pullout 247 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.147216, -115.427729
description
Climbs and crags generally most easily accessed from the first pull-out along the Red Rock loop road.
approach
Approach varies from cliff to cliff.
|
1.2.1. Ultraman Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Scent of an Ultraman | 5.7 | 110ft | |||
2 |
★★ Unknown Sport Climb
About 75ft left of Clutch Cargo/Ultraman | 5.6 | 100ft | |||
3 |
★★ Clutch Cargo
FA: Pier Locatelli & Scott Gordon | 5.9 | ||||
4 | ★★★ Ultraman | 5.8 PG13 | ||||
5 |
★ Speed Racer
FA: Ed Prochaska | 5.8 | ||||
6 |
★ Godzilla
FA: Ed Prochaska | 5.7 | ||||
7 | Rodan | 5.7 | ||||
8 | ★★ Science Patrol | 5.8 | ||||
9 | ★ The Hex Files | 5.6 | ||||
10 | Telletubby Scandal | 5.11 |
1.2.2. The J Wall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.150246, -115.430963
description
A short beautiful dark varnished wall below The Hamlet identified by the prominent 'J' on the wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The J Wall
Leftmost route, near the J | 5.12b | 43ft, 4 | |||
2 | ★★ Killer Joe | 5.10d | ||||
3 | ★★ Mind if I do a J? | 5.10b |
1.2.3. The Hamlet 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
description
A mostly low angle wall below Ultraman, identified by the large arch on the left side. Lots of good easy routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Mind if I do
The right-most of a trio of well-chalked climbs on the lower tier of the Hamlet, below the easier 5.6-5.9 climbs. Angular holds on an overhanging start lead up to an exciting slab finish. | 5.10a | 56ft, 5 | |||
2 | ★★ Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone | 5.7 | 89ft | |||
3 | ★★ Sweets to the Sweet | 5.7 | 89ft | |||
4 | ★ When the Blood Burns | 5.8 | 85ft | |||
5 | ★★ Thy Spirit of a Father Lost | 5.10a | 85ft | |||
6 | ★★ To Grunt and Sweat | 5.8 | 59ft | |||
7 | ★★ Perchance to Dream | 5.8 | 89ft | |||
8 | Moni's Money | 5.8 | ||||
9 | The Madness and the Method | 5.8 | ||||
10 | ★ Contagious Blasters | 5.5 | 69ft | |||
11 | ★ Passing Thru Nature to Eternity | 5.5 | 72ft | |||
12 | ★★ Some Strange Eruption | 5.6 | 79ft | |||
13 | Stand Dumb & Speak Not | 5.7 | 79ft | |||
14 | ★★ Sea of Troubles | 5.9 | 72ft | |||
15 | ★★ The Die is Cast | 5.9 | 82ft |
1.2.4. The Amusement Park 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 36.149426, -115.430475
description
A north facing wall where all climbs are graded 5.7 and are roughly 10 meters high.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Power Tower
FA: L. Gallia & D. Young | 5.7 | 36ft, 4 | |||
2 |
Bumper Cars
FA: L. Gallia & D. Young | 5.7 | 36ft, 4 | |||
3 |
★ Demon Drop
FA: L. Gallia & D. Young | 5.7 | 36ft, 4 | |||
4 |
Haunted House
FA: L. Gallia & D. Young | 5.7 | 36ft, 4 | |||
5 |
★ Cotton Candy
FA: L. Gallia & D. Young | 5.7 | 36ft | |||
6 | ★ Log Flume | 5.7 | 36ft, 4 | |||
7 |
★ Tea Cups
FA: L. Gallia & D. Young | 5.7 | 36ft, 4 | |||
8 |
Roller Coaster
FA: L. Gallia & D. Young | 5.7 | 36ft, 3 | |||
9 |
Tilt-A-Whirl
FA: L. Gallia & D. Young | 5.7 | 35ft |
1.2.5. Panty Wall 23 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.149738, -115.429797
description
With a generally easy approach, and several easy sport routes, this is a popular cliff.
Note: routes are described right-to-left.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Thong | 5.7 | 30ft | |||||
2 | ★ Butt Floss | 5.10 | 130ft | |||||
3 |
★ Cover My Buttress
FA: Todd Swain | 5.6 | 40ft | |||||
4 |
★ Scanty Panty
FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain | 5.5 | 98ft | |||||
5 |
★ Silk Panties
The right-most bolted route, about half-way up the ramp. FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain | 5.7 | 40ft, 5 | |||||
6 | ★★ The Last Panty | 5.7 | 45ft, 6 | |||||
7 | ★★ Black Lace | 5.7 | 49ft | |||||
8 |
★ Boxer Rebellion
Starts where the ledge turns into a ramp up to the right. FA: Albert Newman & Leo Henson | 5.7 | 50ft, 6 | |||||
9 |
★★ Sacred Undergarment Squeeze Job
2nd bolted line from the left, with 8 bolts up to an anchor. Lots of fun. FA: Mark Limage | 5.8 | 60ft, 8 | |||||
10 |
★ Brief Encounter
Left-most bolted line on the front of the cliff. FA: Albert Newman & Leo Henson | 5.8 | 65ft, 6 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★ Panty Line
FA: Nick Nordblom & Paul Van Betten | 5.10a | 70ft | |||||
12 |
★★ Panty Raid
Climb diagonally up rightwards to the obvious crack splitting the large varnished area on the front of the cliff. | 5.10a | 70ft | |||||
13 | ★ Edible Panties | 5.10 | 70ft | |||||
14 |
★ Viagra Falls
This is the rightmost bolted route on the steep section to the left. | 5.11d | 60ft, 6 | |||||
15 | ★★ Wedgie | 5.12a | 66ft, 8 | |||||
16 |
★★ Totally Clips
Left-most route on the steep section, starts about 40ft up the gully. | 5.11a | 49ft, 6 | |||||
The next 4 climbs (Panty Prow, Victoria's Secret, Panty-Mime, Panty Shield) are on a seperate pyramidal-shaped slab up the gully to the left of the main Panty Wall. | ||||||||
18 |
★ Panty Prow
Climb the rounded arete to the right of the face, then traverse to the anchor. A very committing feeling lead for a 5.6. FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain | 5.6 | 60ft, 6 | |||||
19 |
★ Victoria's Secret
Climb up the slab directly beneath the shared anchor. FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain | 5.10 | 45ft | |||||
20 |
★★ Panty-Mime
Slab climbing up the bolts on the left side of the slab, to the shared anchors. | 5.10d | 40ft, 6 | |||||
21 | ★★ Panty Shield | 5.10d | 50ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 |
The Great Red Roof
At the top of the gully is a small cliff with a huge roof split by an impressive thin crack. Also can be aided at A1. FA: Van Bettern, Nordblom & Mamusia, 1987 FFA: Tom Moulin, 2007 | 5.13b | 50ft | |||||
23 | unknown | 5.8 | ||||||
24 |
★ Panty Loon
FA: 2001 | 5.8 | 66ft |
1.2.6. The Slab 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.148788, -115.430199
description
Slab to the left of the arroyo on the way to Tuna and Chips. Mostly sport routes under 5.9
approach
See: Red Rocks A Climber's Guide II by Jerry Handren for directions (p. 347), but it is pretty obvious if you head toward Tuna and Chips.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Chuckwalla Slab | 5.7 | 49ft | |||
2 | ★ Slabulous | 5.7 | 59ft | |||
3 | ★ Slab One | 5.5 | 59ft | |||
4 | ★ Slab Line | 5.5 | 59ft | |||
5 | ★★ To Slab or Not | 5.5 | 59ft | |||
6 | ★ A Little Slab'll Do Ya | 5.6 | 49ft | |||
7 |
★ Slab Stick
3rd route to the left of What R Streek. Shares anchor with Slab Happy. | 5.7 | 46ft | |||
8 |
★ Slab Happy
2nd route to the left of What R Streek. Shares anchor with Slab Stick. | 5.7 | 46ft | |||
9 |
★ Smear Campaign
1st route to the left of What R Streek. FA: Jason Martin, Mark Fulmar & Glen Owen, 2007 | 5.8 | 49ft | |||
10 |
★ What R Streek
Go up the u-shaped black water streak at the far right of the slab. FA: Gene Scott, 2015 | 5.9 | 39ft |
1.2.7. Tiger Stripe Wall 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
description
A striped wall near the front of the Calico Hills -- down and a bit left from pull-out one, but clearly visible from the parking area.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | White Tigers | 5.10b | 69ft, 4 | |||||
2 |
★★ Action by the Fraction / Tigger
Climb the long thin seam in the middle of the wall. FA: Meyers & Stone, 1984 | 5.10c | 60ft, 1 | |||||
3 | ★★ A Fraction of the Action / Shere Khan | 5.10a | 90ft, 8 | |||||
4 | Bengal | 5.9 | 120ft |
1.2.8. Tuna and Chips Wall 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.148550, -115.429295
description
A tall (250') slab split up the middle by a deep chimney/gulley.
The face climbs tend to be run-out.
descent notes
Descent from routes that go all the way up is to walk-off to climber's right, descending past "The Oasis".
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unknown multipitch
Start at the face to the left of The Minnow pillar.
All three pitches have bolted anchors. Descend by rapping each pitch. I think this route might be named Ahi, but can't find a citation anywhere. | 5.8 | 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
The Minnow
Short climb on a small buttress to the left of the main cliff. TR from bolted anchor on top, scramble up left side to reach top & set TR. | 5.8 | 30ft | |||||
3 | ★ Dolphin Safe | 5.7 | 110ft, 4 | |||||
4 | ★ Tuna and Chips | 5.7 | 200ft, 2, 3 | |||||
5 | ★ Albacore Man | 5.7 | 100ft, 4 | |||||
6 |
(top-rope)
There's a "stray" anchor between "Albacore Man" and "Chips and Salsa" which can be used to TR the wall between the two climbs. | 5.6 | ||||||
7 |
★ Chips and Salsa
Climb the crack in the middle of the formation, then the chimney/gulley above. | 5.3 | 210ft, 2 | |||||
8 | ★ Left of Waterstreak | 5.7 | ||||||
9 |
★ Waterstreak
Uses holds on either side of the water streak on the wall, zig-zagging as appropriate. | 5.8 | 50ft | |||||
10 |
★★★ Waterstreak (Variation)
Climb directly up the (smoother) water streak. | 5.10- R | 50ft | |||||
11 | ★ Right of Waterstreak | 5.8 | ||||||
12 | ★★ Tuna Cookies | 5.7 | 250ft, 2 | |||||
13 | Chips Ahoy! | 5.9 | 250ft, 2, 2 | |||||
14 |
Fishbreath
At right end of wall, go up very shallow gulley to cracked face, then move left to anchors of P1 of Chips Ahoy when possible. | 5.5 | 120ft | |||||
15 | ★ Unknown | 5.8 | ||||||
16 | ★ Unnamed | 5.7 |
1.2.9. The Oasis 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.148598, -115.429003
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hang Ten | 5.11d | ||||||
2 | Tropicana | 5.12b | ||||||
3 | The Sands | 5.12a | ||||||
4 |
★ Pad's Passion
Bolts start towards the top of a chimney. Overhung start yields to easier climbing and then veers left to the chains. | 5.8 | 30ft | |||||
5 | Lizardry | 5.8 | ||||||
6 | Diamond Dance | 5.7 | ||||||
7 | Crack Bar | 5.8 | ||||||
8 | ★★ Casino | 5.12a | 45ft | |||||
9 | ★★★ My Thai | 5.12a | 45ft | |||||
10 | ★ Snack Crack | 5.11d | 45ft | |||||
11 | ★ The Warming | 5.10d | 45ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 | ★★ Money | 5.10c | ||||||
13 | ★★ Insecure Delusions | 5.12b | ||||||
14 | ★ Serious Libation | 5.8 | 40ft |
1.2.10. The Fixx Cliff 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Whiff | 5.10 | ||||
2 | Snow Blind | 5.11 | ||||
3 | Stand or Fall | 5.11- | ||||
4 | ★ Crack | 5.11 | ||||
5 | ★ Free Base | 5.11 | ||||
6 | ★★ Saved by Zero | 5.11 | 66ft | |||
7 | Red Skies | 5.11+ | ||||
8 | The Geezer | 5.11 | ||||
9 | Cocaine Hotline | 5.11 | ||||
10 | Reach the Beach | 5.11 | ||||
11 | Eight Ball | 5.11 | ||||
12 | One Thing Leads to Another | 5.11 | ||||
13 | The Skagg | 5.11 | ||||
14 | Running | 5.11- | ||||
15 | Outside the Envelope | 5.11 | ||||
16 | The Bindle | 5.11 |
1.2.11. Dog Wall 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Wok the Dog | 5.7 | ||||||
2 | ★ Cat Walk | 5.10b | 49ft, 4 | |||||
3 | ★★ Pleasure Dog | 5.10b | 49ft, 4 | |||||
4 | ★ Man's Best Friend | 5.10 | ||||||
5 | ★ Dog Logic | 5.11b | 49ft, 4 | |||||
6 | ★★ No Dogs Allowed | 5.12b | 50ft, 5 | |||||
7 |
★★ Cujo
Climb the light colored streak of rock for a crimpy and pumpy great line. | 5.11d | 49ft, 5 | |||||
8 | ★★ Poodle Chainsaw Massacre | 5.11c | 45ft, 4 |
1.2.12. Circus Wall 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.147028, -115.429195
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Human Cannonball
Starts left of the "High Wire" diagonal crack | 5.10a | 4 | |||||
2 | High Wire | 5.10a | ||||||
3 |
Carful of Clowns / Careful of Clowns
Starts behind and just left of a bush | 5.10b | ||||||
4 |
★★ Clown Face
Just left of the water streak, goes into the big hole and then back out right to the anchor. | 5.10b | ||||||
5 | Lion Tamer | 5.11a | ||||||
6 | Circus Boy | 5.13a | ||||||
7 | Main Attraction | 5.12c | ||||||
8 | Sideshow | 5.12b | ||||||
9 | ★★ Crowd Teaser | 5.11d | ||||||
10 | Tight Rope Walker | 5.12a | 10 | |||||
11 | Elephant Man | 5.11b | ||||||
12 | Big Top | 5.10d |
1.2.13. Meat Puppets Wall 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Blanc Czech | 5.11c | ||||
2 | Hodad | 5.12- | ||||
3 | Crawdad | 5.11 | ||||
4 | Yellow Dog | 5.11- | ||||
5 | Ranger Danger | 5.10- | ||||
6 | Meat Puppet | 5.11- | ||||
7 | Gay Nazis for Christ | 5.12 | ||||
8 | Green Eagle | 5.12- | ||||
9 | The Max Flex | 5.11c |
1.2.14. Cactus Massacre 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.146756, -115.427559
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Cactus Hugger | 5.10c/d | 11 | |||
2 | ★★ Cactus Pete | 5.10a | 10 | |||
3 | ★★ Cactus Massacre | 5.11 | ||||
4 | ★★ Cactus Root | 5.11c | ||||
5 | ★★ Cactus Killa | 5.11a | 60ft, 8 | |||
6 | Cactus Head | 5.9 | ||||
7 | ★★ Over a Barrel | 5.10c/d | 70ft, 10 | |||
8 | ★★ One Flew Over a Cactus Nest | 5.10b | 70ft, 11 | |||
9 | ★★ Never Kiss a Cactus | 5.8 | 70ft, 10 | |||
10 |
End of the Cactus
The right-most climb of the wall, up the arête around the corner from the other climbs | 5.5 |
1.2.15. Universal City 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Prime Ticket | 5.11b | ||||
2 | ★ Cameo Appearance | 5.11c | ||||
3 | Celebrity Roast | 5.12b | ||||
4 | Star Search | 5.11c | ||||
5 | Quiet on the Set | 5.10c | ||||
6 | Ed MacMayonnaise | 5.8 |
1.2.16. Climb Bomb Cliff 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Climb Machine | 5.9 | ||||
2 | Climb Traveler | 5.5 | ||||
3 | Climb Warp | 5.11- | ||||
4 | Climb Bomb | 5.11+ |
1.2.17. Velvet Elvis Crag 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Black Tongue | 5.11 | ||||
2 | Isis | 5.11 | ||||
3 | Velvet Elvis | 5.12- | ||||
4 | Climb Bandits | 5.10 | ||||
5 | ★★ Claw Hammer | 5.9 |
1.2.18. Bowling Ball 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Take the Skinheads Bowling | 5.12 |
1.2.19. Viagra Towers 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Top roping and Trad climbing
description
A smallish cliff at the bottom of the main wash.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Knocking Knees | 5.10b | 40ft | |||
2 | ★★ Viagra Corner | 5.6 | 60ft | |||
3 | The Shaft | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
4 | Woofers | 5.8 | 40ft | |||
5 | Wingers | 5.6 | 40ft |
1.2.20. Classic Rock Wall 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.145763, -115.428194
summary
A new crag with varied climbing styles. Located in a canyon which provides full protection from the sun.
approach
About 5 minutes southeast of the first pullout parking lot.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Dirty Clings Done Dirt Cheap
FA: Aaron Batman, 21 Feb 2022 | 5.10a | 45ft, 6 | |||
2 |
★★ High-Hueco to Hell
FA: Aaron "The Batman" Geistfeld, Feb 2022 | 5.10c/d | 45ft, 6 | |||
3 |
★★ I'll Send It That Way
This route has had some rocks break on it since it’s newer and the holds are more hidden so wear a helmet until this route is cleaned better FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, Feb 2022 | 5.10a | 50ft, 5 | |||
4 |
★★ I Would Climb Any-cling for Love
Permadraws at the top FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, Feb 2022 | 5.11- | 55ft, 8 | |||
5 |
★★ Climber's Paradise
Permadraws at the top FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, Feb 2022 | 5.10b | 50ft, 5 | |||
6 | Climber of 5.9 | 5.9 | 50ft, 8 | |||
7 |
Save On Sight
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld | 5.8 | 45ft, 8 | |||
8 | Pretty High for a Climb Guy | 5.8 | 95ft, 11 | |||
9 | Truly Chossy Gri-gri | 5.11- | 36ft, 8 | |||
10 |
★★ Bolt Climb Rock and Fall
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, Julia Parrot & Katie Johnson | 5.10b/c | 85ft, 10 | |||
11 | Climbing on Broken Choss | 5.10b | 75ft, 9 | |||
12 |
★★ Un-break My Hold
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, 2022 | 5.10d | 75ft, 9 | |||
13 |
★★ Pour Some Beta On Me
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, Feb 2022 | 5.11b | 85ft, 9 | |||
14 |
Don't Stop...... Belaying
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, Feb 2022 | 5.9 | 85ft, 9 | |||
15 |
Wannabe (my belayer)
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, Feb 2022 | 5.8 | 75ft, 8 | |||
16 |
Sends in Low Places
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld | 5.8 | 40ft, 5 | |||
17 |
Routebusters!
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, 2022 | 5.10c/d | 40ft, 5 | |||
18 |
★ Oops I Sent It Again
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld, Feb 2022 | 5.8 | 55ft, 10 | |||
19 |
★★ Climbing On A Prayer
FA: Aaron “The Batman” Geistfeld | 5.10a/b | 60ft, 7 | |||
20 | ★★ Another Bolt In The Wall | 5.11b | 50ft, 6 | |||
21 | Sweet Climb O' Mine | 5.10c/d | 45ft, 6 |
1.2.21. The Black Hole 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
summary
Climbing area above Civilization Crag
approach
To access the upper routes, walk through the canyon at Civilization crag. Squeeze past a large boulder and turn left in the second gully. Once at the top of the gully, take another left and walk 15 meters. You will now see the Civilization crag walls on your left and the Black Hole canyon on the right. Head down the canyon to find the routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Epic Curious | 5.8 | 49ft | |||
2 | Is this now? | 5.9 | 49ft | |||
3 | Wash Away the Rain | 5.9 | 49ft | |||
4 | Strangers to Ourselves | 5.10a | 59ft | |||
5 | The End | 5.10 | 49ft, 4 |
1.2.22. Civilization Crag 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.145606, -115.426459
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Fall of Rome
The route climbs the left hand line on the tallest part of the main wall. Work the arete and the face barely right on small crimps up the vertical wall for three bolts, and then enjoy the near vertical 5.8 face to anchors. | 5.10b | 66ft, 6 | |||
2 |
★★ Manifest Destiny
Climbs the center line on the tallest part of the main wall. Step across to two good crimps, then work straight up the vertical varnish face along a series of breaks. Work through the break and onto the high angle slab above, and work this to the anchor. | 5.10a | 66ft, 6 | |||
3 |
★★ This is Sparta
The right route on the tall part of the main wall. Step across into the chimney and work it for a bolt, then pull left onto the face and up past a small bulge and four more bolts to anchors. | 5.9 | 66ft, 5 | |||
4 |
★ Babylon
The most center route on the main wall. Pull up onto the face to the right of the chimney, and work up past bolts to a big break with a massive horn of rock. Step above this and head to the anchors. | 5.8 | 66ft, 4 | |||
5 |
★★ Evil Empire
Splitter at a sport crag. Reminiscent of Yin+Yang but thinner, more smearing, and much smaller pro. A good excuse to visit Civilization Crags and the best rock on the cliff. Not much real crack climbing on this one, more of a V3/4 boulder problem with good gear, but it's an exciting line that will reward those that are adept at placing pro quickly from smears. Worthwhile. | 5.11 | 49ft | |||
6 | Byzantium | 5.10b | 46ft, 6 | |||
7 | Mongol Horde | 5.10a | 36ft, 5 | |||
8 | ★★ Ming Dynasty | 5.9 | 36ft, 4 | |||
9 |
★★ Conquistador
Climbs the blank looking far right face of the main wall. Pull up through underclings and sparse feet to the first bolt, then crimp up to another undercling. Work the crimps to the right of the prominant flake to the last bolt, then traverse left into the flake. A few moves and the chains are yours. | 5.10d | 49ft, 4 | |||
10 | Meerkat Manor | 5.7 | 75ft | |||
11 | ★★ East India trading co | 5.7 | 50ft, 5 | |||
12 | ★★ The three kingdoms | 5.7 | 70ft, 8 | |||
13 |
★ Super Tsardom
60 | 5.4 | 60ft, 6 | |||
14 |
★ Five Charter Oath
The first of three routes (from the left) on the east face around the corner from Super Tsardom. | 5.8 | 55ft, 7 | |||
15 |
Sultans and Viziers
The second of three routes (from the left) on the east face around the corner from Super Tsardom. | 5.9 | 55ft, 6 | |||
16 |
★★ Umayyad Caliphate
The second of three routes (from the left) on the east face around the corner from Super Tsardom. Goes through an overhang. | 5.10a | 60ft, 7 | |||
17 | ★ The Sun Never Sets | 5.7 | 52ft |
1.2.23. Jessica’s Wall 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
summary
A small, sheltered wall of short moderates, located just below The Chasm.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lil’s Juicy Juice | 5.8 | 30ft, 4 | |||
2 | Here Comes the Sun | 5.9 | 36ft, 4 | |||
3 | Light Blue | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
4 | Big Head | 5.10a | 30ft, 4 | |||
5 |
Angel Tears
Second clip is sketchy, stick clip recommended. | 5.10c | 30ft, 4 | |||
6 |
Flying Trapeze
Follow the left leaning seam at the right edge of the wall. | 5.10a | 30ft, 4 |
1.2.24. Carly Quinn Crag 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
New crag as of early 2021. Still shedding/cleaning up as of late 2022.
approach
Located roughly below Civilization crag. Approach from First Pullout parking to Viagra Towers, then keep hiking another 200 meters down the wash until you find two large, varnished, square cut boulders. Head up into the rocks here for about 50 meters.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Miss Carly Quinn
Leftmost bolt line. Climbs a slab to a small crux roof below the anchor. | 5.9 | 66ft, 10 | |||
2 |
The White Dog
Cruisy, well bolted slab to the first anchor. The extension above is The Great White Dog. | 5.6 | 46ft, 6 | |||
3 |
The Great White Dog
An extension of The White Dog to a second, higher set of anchors. There are 6 bolts, then the first anchor, then two more bolts, then the second anchor. | 5.10a | 66ft, 9 | |||
4 |
Lunch With Leslie
Lotsa bolts. | 5.7 | 66ft, 11 | |||
5 |
Morning Walk
An easy chimney crack, then a slab to the anchors. | 5.6 | 66ft, 9 | |||
6 |
Keeping Up With Carly
The bolt line just left of a prominent flake. | 5.10a | 49ft, 7 | |||
7 |
Full Body Wag
Take care of the big cactus right at the base of the climb. Crux between first and second bolts, so best to stick clip second bolt. | 5.10b | 66ft, 8 | |||
8 |
Off the Leash
Another climb with a cactus at its base. Follows the arete/crack at the right end of the wall. Avoid the chossy rock to the right of the crack. | 5.10c | 59ft, 9 |
1.2.25. Dante's Wall 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.144947, -115.424726
summary
Sport crag. South-west facing corner. Main wall faces West.
description
Excellent rock; moderate routes; morning shadow on main wall.
approach
After Civilization Crags. Slightly complex approach. See Red Rocks A Climber Guide II.
history
All routes from 2014 (Michael Kimm)
1.2.25.1. Right (Main) Wall 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
summary
Main wall on right side of corner. Routes described right to left (going up)
|
1.2.25.2. Left Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
summary
Routes right to left (going down)
1.3. Second Pullout 230 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.152542, -115.434720
description
This is the set of cliffs that are generally most easily accessed from the 2nd pull-out (Calico Hills overlook 2) along the Red Rock Canyon drive.
Note: The "Running Man Wall", "Stratocaster Wall", and "B/W Wall" are all described under the "Sandstone Quarry" section. (Handren describes them under 2nd pullout, though suggests approaching at least Running Man Wall from Sandstone Quarry. Here they are grouped under Sandstone Quarry.
|
1.3.1. Second Pullout Boulders 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.3.1.1. Desert Rain & adjacent 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
1.3.1.2. The Gallery 0 routes in Sector
1.3.1.3. Meister's Edge Area 0 routes in Sector
1.3.1.4. Drainage Area 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.3.1.5. The Sanctuary 0 routes in Area
1.3.2. Iron Man Wall 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Iron Man | 5.10d | 90ft | |||
2 | Iron Maiden | 5.11c | 70ft, 7 | |||
3 | Rust Bucket | 5.9 | 39ft | |||
4 | Test of Time | 5.10a | 56ft | |||
5 | Ferrous Wheel | 5.10d | 45ft | |||
6 | Easiest Path | 5.8 | 56ft | |||
7 | Brandi Whine | 5.8 | 50ft, 5 | |||
8 | Particle Man | 5.9 | 30ft, 3 | |||
9 | Oxosis | 5.11b | 45ft, 4 |
1.3.3. Tsunami Wall 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.151934, -115.435146
description
Park at second pullout. Walk right (use the magic schoolbus boulder as a landmark when you drop into the wash) until you go past the boulder. Follow large constructed cairns through the wash along well defined track towards first pullout. You'll see it on the left. Alternatively, walk from first pullout. About the same..
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Poseidon Adventure | 5.12b | ||||
2 | ★ Barracuda | 5.13c | 33ft | |||
3 | Land Shark | 5.12b | 33ft | |||
4 | ★★★ Angler | 5.12c | 33ft | |||
5 | ★★ Threadfin | 5.12c | 33ft, 6 | |||
6 | SOS | 5.13a | 33ft | |||
7 | Man Overboard! | 5.12d | 33ft | |||
8 | ★★ Aftershock | 5.12b | 33ft | |||
9 | ★ Abandon Ship | 5.12b | 33ft | |||
10 | Women and Children First | 5.6 | 33ft | |||
11 | Tremor | 5.10b | 33ft | |||
12 | ★ Low Tide | 5.10b | 33ft |
1.3.4. Trundle Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Before Its Time | 5.12b | ||||
2 | Standing in the Shadows | 5.12a | ||||
3 | ★★★ Master Beta | 5.13a | ||||
4 | ★★ Pocket Rocket | 5.11d | ||||
5 | ★★ Life out of Balance | 5.11c | ||||
6 | Bone Machine | 5.11c |
1.3.5. Jane's Wall 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ See Dick Fly | 5.10d | 52ft | |||||
2 |
★★★ Idiots Rule
Pumpy with great moves. Use a clip stick for the first one (It is easy to clip without, but reachy and very high off the ground). | 5.11d | 6 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Pigs in Zen
Stellar route with very varied movements. Has an interesting boulder to pull the roof and continues with reachy moves through big holds to a smaller crux up top guarding the chains. Very pumpy | 5.12c | 6 | |||||
4 | Naked and Disfigured | 5.12b | ||||||
5 | Stealin' | 5.12b | ||||||
6 | ★ Every Mother's Nightmare | 5.12b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | Playing Hooky | 5.10a | ||||||
8 |
Doctor's Orders
The crux features an interesting sequence of movement. | 5.10b | ||||||
9 | Been Caught Setalin' | 5.11a | ||||||
10 |
★★★ Mannish Boys
Easy climbing to an obvious left hand vertical rib, tensiony moves at that crux. Very easy finish. | 5.11a | ||||||
11 | ★ Half baked | 5.9 | 43ft, 4 |
1.3.6. Truancy Cliff 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ditch Day | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Playing Hooky | 5.10a | 30ft | |||
3 | ★ Doctor's Orders | 5.10b | 30ft |
1.3.7. The Arena 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Shadow Warrior | 5.13a | ||||
2 | ★★ Gladiator | 5.12c |
1.3.8. Rescue Wall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Airlift | 5.11c | ||||
2 | Jaws of Life | 5.12a | ||||
3 | ★ 911 | 5.11d |
1.3.9. Magic Bus 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
description
Magic Bus is the ovalish varnished wall (with a triangular cut-out on the lower-right side) sitting perched on top of the first layer of slabs just across the gully from the 2nd pull out. It is a warm, south-facing wall with generally easy routes on it; in many ways the approach is the crux of this wall, but picking it out from the parking lot can help for having an idea of where you're heading while negotiating the gullies and slabs on the way.
descent notes
Rap/lower off anchors.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Electric Koolaid
The left-most bolted route. The first bolt is high, very high. Most of the climbing to it is easy -- 5.2/5.3 stuff, but unless you're quite tall and reachy, one very high up (15' or so) 5.7ish move must be done to clip the first bolt, making the start very committing. | 5.9 | 45ft, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Blonde Dwarf
Starting just right of "Electric Coolaid", climb the right sloping crack until it turns vertical and peters out in the slight scoop in the face, then follow two bolts up and leftwards to the shared anchor. | 5.9 | 45ft, 2 | |||||
3 |
★ Neon Sunset
Climb the closely spaced bolts up the center of the wall. | 5.8 | 45ft, 9 | |||||
4 |
★ Zipperhead
Climb the thin crack about 10ft right of Neon Sunset until it runs out, then up a seam, then run out to a bolt, then to the anchor for whichever adjacent route you choose. | 5.8 | 45ft, 1 | |||||
5 |
★ Technicolor Sunrise
Start on the left side of the triangular cut-out, and follow the bolts up and generally right-wards to an anchor. | 5.8 | 45ft, 5 | |||||
6 |
★ Ken Queasy
Start a couple feet right of the triangular cut-out at a wide crack in the lower rock. Climb up this and a thin seam through the nearly solid varnish to a bolt. Then, continue up the wall past two more bolts to anchors. | 5.8 | 50ft, 3 |
1.3.10. Kitty Crag 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Suffering Cats | 5.11c | ||||
2 | ★ Titty Litter | 5.10d | ||||
3 | ★★ Nine Lives | 5.11d |
1.3.11. The Sandbox 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sand Wedge | 5.11b | 50ft | |||
2 | ★★ Sand Buckets | 5.11b | 50ft | |||
3 | ★ Sand Rail | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
4 | ★★★ Sandblaster | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
5 | ★★★ Sand Boxing | 5.12d | 60ft | |||
6 |
★★★ Samadhi
In between Generations and Sand Boxing. Climb towards very large hueco feature then top out. | 5.11d | ||||
7 |
Generations
Right of Crimson Crimp, left of Samadhi. Sandy jugs lead to scoop, kneepad helpful. Then long move / jump right to snag a brick jug, mantle, and top out. Originally given 13a/b, but grade has yet to settle. | 5.13a/b | ||||
8 | ★★ Crimson Crimp | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
9 | Rubber Biscuit | 5.13a |
1.3.12. Ethics Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Ethical Behavior | 5.11 | ||||
2 | ★ Mind Field | 5.11c | ||||
3 | ★★ The Laying on of the Hands | 5.11d | ||||
4 | Rafter Man | 5.12a |
1.3.13. The Black Corridor 38 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.155535, -115.436145
description
This is a long, narrow, corridor with sport climbs along both sides. It is divided into an upper and lower tier by a scramble up some boulders about half way along the canyon. Almost entirely a sport-climbing area (one mixed climb).
1.3.13.1. South Wall, Lower Level 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.155368, -115.436144
description
This is the left wall as you enter the the canyon, it is less steep than the rest of the walls in the canyon, having most of the easier climbs.
1.3.13.2. North Wall, Lower Level 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.155344, -115.436055
description
This is the right side as you enter the canyon, covered in impressive huecos on steep terrain.
Climbs are described from right to left (as you encounter them).
1.3.13.3. South Wall, Upper Level 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.155849, -115.436279
description
This is the left side of the canyon as you face in, above the boulders.
1.3.13.4. North Wall, Second Story 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.155838, -115.436206
description
This is the right-side of the canyon as you face in, above the rock-scramble.
Routes are described from right to left.
1.3.14. Hunter S. Thompson Dome 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Walking the Vertical Beach | 5.9 | ||||
2 | Chrome Dome | 5.10a | 79ft | |||
3 | ★ Crazy Eights | 5.8 | 85ft, 9 | |||
4 | ★ Mother's Milk | 5.8 | 70ft, 7 | |||
5 | Gonzo Dogs | 5.10- | ||||
6 | ★ Runout Rodeo | 5.10 | ||||
7 | Fear and Loathing II | 5.10+ | ||||
8 | ★ Liquid God | 5.11 | ||||
9 | Pretty in Pink | 5.12a |
1.3.15. Poser Crag 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Special Guest Posers | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★ Tin Horn Posers | 5.11c |
1.3.16. Meetup Wall 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Member's Profile | 5.7 | 52ft | |||
2 | ★ Let's Meetup | 5.7 | 59ft | |||
3 | ★ Safety First | 5.6 | 52ft | |||
4 | ★ Message Board | 5.7 | 59ft | |||
5 | ★★ No Teaching! | 5.7 | 59ft | |||
6 | ★★ Count Me In | 5.8 | 49ft | |||
7 | ★★ Upcoming Meetups | 5.10a | 49ft | |||
8 | Sponsors Wanted | 5.9 | 49ft | |||
9 |
★★ Sally
Located opposite the main slap of meetup wall, to the left of "The Pumpkin King". Shares the same style of varied, interesting holds and beautiful erosion features. | 5.9 | 26ft | |||
10 |
★★ The Pumpkin King
Located opposite the main slap of meetup wall. Very interesting rock features including pockets, slopers, flaring side pulls. | 5.10b | 36ft |
1.3.17. Great Red Book Area 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
description
The large red wall with a huge left-facing corner at the top of the hills, facing the 2nd pull-out.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The liner
Hand crack on the left side of the wall | 5.6 | 100ft | |||||
2 |
★★ Cognitive overlap
FA: Kris G & Rosie F | 5.10a | 260ft, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | ★★★ Reservations Required | 5.10a | 250ft, 3, 23 | |||||
4 | ★★ The Front Matter | 5.9 | 230ft, 2, 19 | |||||
5 | ★★★ The Great Red Book | 5.8 | 270ft, 2 | |||||
6 | Animal Boy | 5.11+ | 240ft, 3 | |||||
7 | Tomato Amnesia | 5.9 | 240ft, 2 | |||||
8 | Abandoned Line | 5.10+ | ||||||
9 | ★ See Spot Run | 5.6 | 60ft | |||||
10 | Chips Ahoy | 5.9 | 120ft | |||||
11 | ★ Elementary Primer | 5.7 | 70ft | |||||
12 | ★ Stone Hammer | 5.8 | 200ft | |||||
13 | Seams Novel | 5.7 | 80ft | |||||
14 | Chips Away | 5.10+ | 200ft | |||||
15 |
★ Ground-up Vocabulary
P1: 5.8+, 12b to chains P2: 5.7, 7b to chains Can rap or walk off. | 5.8 | 160ft, 2 | |||||
16 | Dangling Participles | 5.8 | 90ft, 14 | |||||
17 | Question of Balance | 5.9 | ||||||
18 | Subject Verb Agreement | 5.8 | 90ft | |||||
19 | Chairman Mao's Little Red Book | 5.8 | ||||||
20 | Sandstone Cowboy | 5.10 | 180ft, 2 |
1.3.18. Meister's Edge Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sand Man | 5.11 | ||||
2 | ★★★ Meister's Edge | 5.11a | ||||
3 | ★ Yucca | 5.11+ | ||||
4 | Jonny Rotten | 5.11- | ||||
5 | Jonny Jamcrack | 5.8 | ||||
6 | ★ Shut up and Dance | 5.10 | ||||
7 | Malice Alice | 5.10 |
1.3.19. Sweet Pain Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Sweet Pain | 5.11d | 49ft, 5 | |||
2 | ★★ The Gambler | 5.11b | 40ft, 5 | |||
3 |
★★ Sour Pain
This newer route is not in the black book, but is named and graded on the wall. A super route following some great flakes. Height requires verification. | 5.11b | 66ft | |||
4 | ★★ Glitter Gulch | 5.11a | 66ft | |||
5 | ★★ Slave to the Grind | 5.11b | 66ft | |||
6 | ★★ Sister of Pain | 5.11c | 66ft | |||
7 | ★ Lee Press-on | 5.12c | 40ft | |||
8 | ★ Pain in the Neck | 5.10a | 59ft | |||
9 | Pain Relief | 5.9 | 60ft, 6 | |||
10 | A-Cute Pain | 5.8 | 50ft |
1.3.20. Pet Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
summary
From Sweet Pain, scramble 50 yards up the gully to a small cliff on the left.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Desert Hamster | 5.11c | 30ft, 5 | |||
2 | Teika | 5.12a | 30ft, 5 | |||
3 | Turkey Brain | 5.10d | 30ft, 4 | |||
4 | Trey Dog Boogie | 5.11c | 30ft, 5 |
1.3.21. Stone Wall 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Purple Haze | 5.10d | 66ft | |||
2 | ★★ Haunted Hooks | 5.10d | 82ft | |||
3 | ★★ Roto-Hamer | 5.10c | 66ft | |||
4 | ★★ Nirvana | 5.11a | 66ft | |||
5 | Stonehenge | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
6 | ★★ Stone Hammer II | 5.10 | 70ft | |||
7 | Birthstone | 5.10d | 66ft | |||
8 | ★★ April Fools | 5.10b | 66ft |
1.3.22. The Observatory 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
A large triangular slab with a clear right ridge/arrete that continues upwards above the cliff.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Witches' Honor | 5.8 | 160ft, 2, 3 | |||||
2 | Which Hunters? | 5.10 | 150ft, 4 | |||||
3 | Warlock | 5.9 | 150ft | |||||
4 |
★ Bewitched
Easy climbing, but little to no protection beyond the bolts. Not a good choice for a beginning leader. | 5.3 PG13 | 150ft, 6 |
1.3.23. The Gallery 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.156811, -115.438553
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ The Glitch | 5.12c | 59ft | |||
2 | ★★ Nothing Shocking | 5.13a | ||||
3 | ★★★ Who Made Who | 5.12c | ||||
4 | ★★★ Where the Down Boys Go | 5.12d | 60ft | |||
5 | ★★★ The Gift | 5.12d | ||||
6 | ★★★ Yaak Crack | 5.11c | 49ft | |||
7 | ★ The Sissy Traverse | 5.13b | ||||
8 | ★★ Minstrel in the Gallery | 5.12c | 70ft | |||
9 | ★★ A Day in the Life | 5.11c | 49ft | |||
10 | ★ Social Disorder | 5.11d | 49ft | |||
11 | ★ Gridlock | 5.11a | 49ft | |||
12 | ★ Running Amuck | 5.10c | 33ft | |||
13 | ★ Pump First, Pay Later | 5.10b | 33ft | |||
14 | ★ Gelatin Pooch | 5.10a | 33ft | |||
15 | ★ Buck's Muscle World | 5.9 | 25ft, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Sport Climbing Is Neither | 5.9 | 25ft, 3 | |||
17 | ★ The Goode Dude Climb | 5.7 | 45ft, 5 | |||
18 | Trad Climbing is Both | 5.6 | ||||
19 | ★ Range of Motion | 5.10d | 35ft, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Unknown | 5.11a |
1.3.24. Wall of Confusion 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.157026, -115.438896
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Resin Rose | 5.11+ | ||||
2 |
★★★ Makulu
Huge Jugs to the right of the shit covered crack Resin Rose | 5.11d | 66ft, 5 | |||
3 |
★★ Super Guide
Pocket pulling to the right of Makulu | 5.11a | 66ft, 5 | |||
4 | Body English | 5.12c | ||||
5 | ★★★ Fear and Loathing III | 5.12a | 60ft, 9 | |||
6 | ★★★ Promises in the Dark | 5.12b | 55ft, 7 | |||
7 | Big Damage | 5.12b | ||||
8 | ★ Sudden Impact | 5.11c | ||||
9 | ★★ Desert Pickle | 5.11c | ||||
10 | ★★ American Sportsman | 5.10c | 49ft | |||
11 | ★ The Runaway | 5.10+ | 49ft |
1.3.25. California 12a 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ California 12a | 5.12c |
1.4. Sandstone Quarry 291 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.162570, -115.444523
1.4.1. Sandstone Quarry East 54 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
1.4.1.1. Parking Lot Area 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
summary
Large slabby crag overlooking parking lot to the east
approach
Less than five minutes walk from end of parking lot to the east.
1.4.1.2. Front Corridor 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
1.4.1.3. Winston Wall 1 route in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
5 minutes South from the Sandstone Quarry parking lot. Easily identified by the light tan rock with an obvious change to red rock about half way up. Has a 4th class scramble down to a small gully to access routes.
1.4.1.4. California Crags 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.4.1.5. The Pier 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.4.1.6. Americrag 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.4.2. Running Man Wall Area 62 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.158481, -115.440294
1.4.2.1. Boschton Marathon Block 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.160858, -115.443238
1.4.2.2. Running Man Wall 30 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.156447, -115.438114
1.4.2.3. Stratocaster Wall 24 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 36.156123, -115.437439
1.4.2.4. B/W Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.4.3. Sandstone Quarry Central 71 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.165269, -115.452970
1.4.3.1. Sandy Corridor 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
1.4.3.2. Sonic Youth Cliff 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
1.4.3.3. The Asylum 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.4.3.4. Broast and Toast Cliff 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.4.3.5. Numbers Crag 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.4.3.6. Common Time 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
1.4.3.7. Wake Up Wall 26 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.165846, -115.453540
1.4.3.8. The Grindhouse 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.164916, -115.452443
description
Receives sun until mid-day, then shade until the sun sets. In the warmer months this cliff goes in the shade around 2:00 pm, making it possible to climb until the park closes. It is easily seen from the parking lot of the Sandstone Quarry. Since this is a new area (summer 2008) the routes will have to be climbed some in order to become crisp and clean.
approach
Approach as for Sonic Youth - head west off of the main trail and go up a small ridge just right of the boulder in the Sandstone Quarry. Walk the ridge heading towards the Sonic Youth cliff. NOTE: as you are walking the ridge you are parallel to The Grindhouse. Descend the gully and instead of turning right to go to the Sonic Youth wall, turn left and skirt along some slabby rock that descends into a wash. Walk 75 yards or so and the rock will curve gently to the right. A natural stair case will lead up to the base of the cliff.
1.4.4. Sandstone Quarry North 56 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.169348, -115.453136
1.4.4.1. The Twinkie 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.169326, -115.453240
1.4.4.2. The Marshmallow 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.4.4.3. The Bull Market 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.4.4.4. Satellite Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.4.4.5. Avian Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.4.4.6. The Trophy 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.4.4.7. Secret 13 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.4.5. Sandstone Quarry Northeast 38 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.4.5.1. Blister in the Sun Cliff 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.4.5.2. The Beach 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
1.4.5.3. Mass Production Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
1.4.5.4. The Hall of Fame 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.4.5.5. Holiday Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.4.6. James Brown Area 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
1.4.6.1. James Brown Wall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
1.4.6.2. Next Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.4.6.3. The Sweet Spot 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.5. White Rock Spring Peak 40 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.169590, -115.485976
description
The large mass of light-colour/whitish rock that is seperate from both the Calico Hills and from the main Red Rocks formation, with Willow Springs creek being between it and the main formation.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5 | Rosie's Day Out | 5.9 | ||||||
|
1.5.1. Sheep Skull Crags 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | It's a Love Thing | 5.9 | 180ft, 2 | |||
2 | Dust to Dust | 150ft | ||||
3 | Intestinal Flu | 5.8 | 100ft | |||
4 | Black Glass | 5.9 | 180ft | |||
5 | Pneumonia | 5.8 | 150ft | |||
6 | Pencil Lead | 5.10b | 120ft |
1.5.2. Ledger Crags 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 36.163930, -115.490322
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ulysses | |||||
2 |
★ The Ledger
Park at White Rock Trail Head (there's a small dirt lot right next to Scenic Route Drive) if you want to cross country or at the main trailhead lot if you wish to take the trail to the gully. Approach: You can cross country the flats (with lots of small gullies) or use the gully which White Rock Loop crosses and goes up the mountain right next to The Ledger. Descent: There are 3 possible routes out:
Pitches:
Protection: Up to Camalot #3 FA: Tom Kaufman, Phil Jones, Betsy Herbst, Steve Jones, Joe Herbst. December 1974 & Joe Herbst | 5.7 | 250ft, 3, 2 | |||
3 | ★★ Holed Up | 5.10b | 230ft |
1.5.3. Angel Food Wall 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.168880, -115.490130
description
The white pyramid-shaped east/north-east facing wall on the lower-right flank of White Rocks Springs Peak. It has a number of long moderate multi-pitch climbs.
descent notes
Descend the gully to the (climber's) left, one rappel needed.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Psychomania | 5.10d | 500ft | |||||
2 | Sandy Hole | 5.6 | 600ft | |||||
3 | Eigerwand | 5.9 | 700ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 | ★★★ Tunnel Vision | 5.7 III | 750ft, 6 | |||||
5 |
★★ Group Therapy
FA: Joe Herbst, Betsy Herbst, Randal Grandstaff & Matt McMackin, 1974 | 5.7 | 750ft | |||||
6 |
★★ Group Therapy Variation
Variant final pitch. | 5.8 | ||||||
7 | Stilgar's Wild Ride | 5.8 | 750ft | |||||
8 | Rude Rocks | 5.10a | 220ft | |||||
9 | ★★ Goobies for Gumbies | 5.10+ | 150ft | |||||
10 | ★★ Healy's Haunted House | 5.8 | 650ft | |||||
11 | ★★ Purblind Pillar | 5.8 | 950ft, 6 | |||||
12 | Echolalia | 5.9 | 600ft | |||||
13 | Lean Lady | 5.6 | 600ft |
1.5.4. The Enclaves 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
summary
A collection of gritstone style routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Bollocks | 5.10d | 45ft | |||
2 | Scian Dubh | 5.11c | 25ft | |||
3 |
★★★ Saracen
mostly sport with a couple optional pieces. | 5.12c |
1.5.5. White Rock Springs Bouldering 14 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 36.175466, -115.480202
1.5.5.1. Stooge Boulders 12 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
description
Accessed from parking at lost creek and hiking back towards the Owl. A couple quality lines but fragile rock.
1.5.5.2. Seinfeld 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.175466, -115.480202
1.6. Willow Spring 125 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.154158, -115.496837
|
1.6.1. Nadia's Niche 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Nadia's Nine | 5.9 I | ||||
2 | Dark Star | 5.11+ | 80ft | |||
3 | Wheat Thick | 5.11b |
1.6.2. N'Plus Ultra Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ N'Plus Ultra | 5.10- | ||||
2 | The Abdominizer | 5.11 | ||||
3 | Lucky Charms | 5.7 | ||||
4 | ★★ Geezer’s face | 5.7 | ||||
5 | ★★ Pillar Talk | 5.7 | ||||
6 | ★ Big Iron | 5.11c | ||||
7 | ★★ Sleeper | 5.9 |
1.6.3. Lost Creek Canyon (Hidden Falls) 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Killer Klowns | 5.10+ | ||||||
2 | ★★★ Left Out | 5.10+ | 82ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | ★★ Black Track | 5.9 I | ||||||
4 |
★★ Stupid Foot
Removed bolts line close to the crack | 5.11a | 60ft | |||||
5 | ★★ Bigfoot | 5.10a | 60ft, 4 | |||||
6 |
Camel Toe
Climb the right side of the face via three bolts - can be climbed without gear by belaying below Buffalo Balls | 5.10a | 60ft, 3 | |||||
7 | Buffalo Balls | 5.11d | 30ft, 3 | |||||
8 | Possum Logic | 5.9 | ||||||
9 | The Pocket Philosopher | 5.10- | ||||||
10 | ★★ Bighorn Buttress | 5.11 | ||||||
11 | Bighorn Buttress Variation | 5.9 | ||||||
12 | ★★★ The Threat | 5.10+ | ||||||
13 | Flight Line | 5.12c | ||||||
14 | Mind Bomb | 5.11+ | ||||||
15 |
Tholian Web
FA: John Martinet | 5.10b | 50ft | |||||
16 | ★★ Little Big Horn | 5.9 | 80ft | |||||
17 | Grippitty Gravity | 5.10 | ||||||
18 | Sportin' a Woody | 5.11+ | ||||||
19 | Captain Hook | 5.11+ | ||||||
20 | ★ Captain Curmudgeon | 5.11 | ||||||
21 | Captain Crunch | 5.10 | ||||||
22 | Tuckered Sparfish | 5.10 | ||||||
23 | Rock Rastler | 5.12+ | ||||||
24 | ★ Heatwave | 5.10 | ||||||
25 | Hot Climb | 5.10 |
1.6.4. Ragged Edges Cliff 24 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.157706, -115.498437
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Kemosabe | 5.10 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Tonto
A nice hand crack,and corner that run to the right of the large chimney/arch feature to the left of Ragged Edges. A fun, quality route. FA: Joe Herbst & Betsy Herbst | 5.5 | 99ft | |||||
3 | Vision Quest | 5.12d | ||||||
4 | ★ Bodiddly | 5.10 | 56ft | |||||
5 | Bodacious | 5.10 | ||||||
6 | ★★ Plan F | 5.11a | 160ft, 2, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | ★★★ Ragged Edges | 5.8 I | 160ft | |||||
8 |
★★ Ragged Edges (P1)
First pitch of Ragged Edges. | 5.7 | 49ft | |||||
9 | ★★ Chicken Eruptus | 5.10b | 160ft, 2 | |||||
10 | Gun Boy | 5.11+ | ||||||
11 | ★ Sheep Trail | 5.9 | ||||||
12 | ★ Dense Pack | 5.10 | ||||||
13 | Twelve Pack | 5.10+ | ||||||
14 | Why Left | 5.11b | ||||||
15 | Why Right | 5.11b | ||||||
16 | Sheep Dip | 5.11 | ||||||
17 | Just In Case | 5.5 | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Plan F (Variation) | 5.10a | ||||||
19 | ★ Go ahead and Jump | 5.7 | 100ft | |||||
20 | ★ Ok OK OK! | 5.6 | ||||||
21 |
Lethal Weapon II
FA: Joe Herbst | 5.8 | 98ft | |||||
22 |
★★ Revoked
FA: Joe Herbst | 5.5 | 130ft | |||||
23 |
★★★ Diplomatic Immunity
FA: Joe Herbst | 5.5 | 98ft | |||||
24 |
★★ Crooked Crack
FA: Joe Herbst | 5.6 | 49ft |
1.6.5. Graduate Cliff 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Walk to School | 5.7 | ||||
2 | ★★ The Graduate | 5.10 | ||||
3 | G.E.D. (General Equivalent Diploma) | 5.9 | ||||
4 | Acid Jacks | 5.11 | ||||
5 | Circle Jerks | 5.11d |
1.6.6. The Case Face 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Territorial Imperative | 5.10 | ||||
2 | Just in Case | 5.5 | ||||
3 | ★ Space Case | 5.7 | ||||
4 | Head Case | 5.8 | ||||
5 | ★★ Hard Case | 5.9 | ||||
6 | ★★ Soylent Green Jeans | 5.9 | ||||
7 | ★★ Sterling Moss | 5.10 |
1.6.7. Sumo Greatness Slab 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Sumo Greatness | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★★★ Ice Climb | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Dean's List | 5.11 |
1.6.8. Mother’s Crag 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mike’s route | 5.7 | ||||
2 | ★★★ Motorcycle Mama | 5.5 | ||||
3 | Yo mama | 5.6 X | ||||
4 | Crag hag | 5.7 | ||||
5 | Dream girl | 5.4 |
1.6.9. Outhouse Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Tricks Are for Kids | 5.10 | 100ft | |||
2 | ★★★ Spiderline | 5.7 | ||||
3 | Rasting Affair | 5.10- | ||||
4 | Sin City | 5.11 | ||||
5 | ★ Jam Session | 5.11- | ||||
6 | Karate Crack5.9+ | 5.9 | 50ft |
1.6.10. The Dark Thumb 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Land of the Free | 5.11c | ||||
2 | Home of the Brave | 5.11+ |
1.6.11. Willow Springs Bouldering 38 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 36.159286, -115.503683
description
Numerous areas of bouldering at the Willow Springs pullout.
1.6.11.1. Mystery Canyon 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.159286, -115.503683
1.6.11.2. Red Rock Wash 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.6.11.3. Willow Springs Main Area 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.7. Icebox Canyon 77 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.143797, -115.496055
1.7.1. Sunnyside Crag 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Whipper | 5.10 | ||||
2 | Backlash | 5.11 | ||||
3 | ★★ Whiplash | {AU} YDS_ALT:5.11 | ||||
4 | Meteor | 5.11 | ||||
5 | Cold September Corner | 5.8 | ||||
6 | Mr. Freeze's Face | 5.10 | ||||
7 | ★★ Shady Ladies | 5.7 | ||||
8 | ★★ Magellanic Cloud | 5.9 | ||||
9 | ★ Van Allen Belt | 5.7 | ||||
10 | Knotty Behavior | 5.10 | ||||
11 | Tie Me Tightly | 5.10 | ||||
12 | ★★ Mercedes | 5.11- | ||||
13 | Water Dog | 5.11+ | ||||
14 | Pit Bull | 5.10 | ||||
15 | Hot Dog | 5.10 | ||||
16 | Water Logged | 5.9 | ||||
17 | ★★ Mister Masters | 5.9 | ||||
18 | Gotham City | 5.12 | ||||
19 | ★★ Spring Break | 5.11+ | ||||
20 | ★ Tarantula | 5.12- | ||||
21 | Crossfire | 5.11 |
1.7.2. Buffalo Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Buffalo Wall | 5.11 A3 | ||||
2 | Tatanka | 5.10 A3 |
1.7.3. Hidden Wall 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Blitzkrieg | 5.10+ |
1.7.4. Icebox Canyon, South Side 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Quiffle's Wiggle | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★ Weenie Juice | 5.10 |
1.7.5. Refrigerator Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Music to My Fears | 5.10 | ||||
2 | Unfinished Symphony | 5.11- | ||||
3 | Strawberry Shubert | 5.10 | ||||
4 | ★★ Breakaway | 5.10+ | ||||
5 | Earth Juice | 5.10+ | ||||
6 | ★★ Kisses Don't Lie | 5.12- | ||||
7 | ★★ Amazing Grace | 5.9 | ||||
8 | ★★★ Grape Nuts | 5.10c | ||||
9 | Swing Shift | 5.10 | ||||
10 | Greased Lighting | 5.10 |
1.7.6. Smears For Fears Area 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Romeo Charlie | 5.10- | ||||
2 | Rojo | 5.11+ | ||||
3 | ★ Smears for Fears | 5.11 | ||||
4 | Lebanese JoJo | 5.9 |
1.7.7. Bridge Mountain 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ The Northeast Arete | 5.6 |
1.7.8. Frigid Air Buttress 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Frigid Air Buttess
FA: Larry Hamilton & Joe Herbst | 5.9 IV | 980ft, 8 | |||
2 | ★★ Burlesque | 5.9 |
1.7.9. The Necromancer 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Fold-Out | 5.8 | 250ft, 2 | |||
2 | ★★★ Sensuous Mortician | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Black Magic Panties | 5.10 | ||||
4 | ★★ Hop Route | 5.7 | 250ft, 3 | |||
5 | Crawford's Corner | 5.10 | ||||
6 | Unknown 1 | 5.10+ | ||||
7 | Unknown 2 | 5.10 | ||||
8 | Unknown 3 | 5.11 |
1.7.10. Icebox Canyon Bouldering 26 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 36.146907, -115.487647
1.7.10.1. Ice Box One 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.146794, -115.485474
approach
Main trail, left onto Dale's Trail, then when in wash, right for about 50 yards. Boulder is on the right.
1.7.10.2. Ice Box Two 10 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.146907, -115.487647
1.7.10.3. Buffalo Ball 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
1.7.10.4. Admiral Rock 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
1.7.10.5. Monoslabistic 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
1.8. Pine Creek Canyon 156 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.125164, -115.493726
description
These are the various crags and cliffs best approached from the Pine Creek Canyon parking lot, just over 10 miles along the loop road.
A number of the classic Red Rocks moderate multi-pitch climbs are found in this area, including "Birdland", "Dark Shadows", and "Cat in the Hat"
approach
Varies from section to section, but all start by heading up the main Pine Creek Canyon trail.
|
1.8.1. Magic Mountain 23 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Magic Mountain is the small peak on the left side, in front of Juniper Peak
1.8.1.1. Dependent Variable Area 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
description
An east-facing area at the base of Magic Mountain, at the very entrance to the canyon.
1.8.1.2. Magic Triangle Area 19 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
description
This is the North Face of Magic Mountain, a wide area with several attractive pillars, including one that has a clear triangular shape to it, ascended by "The Magic Triangle".
|
1.8.2. Juniper Peak 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Juniper Peak is the large peak on the left (south) side of the canyon.
1.8.2.1. Jet Stream Wall 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
1.8.2.2. Crabby Appleton Area 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.8.3. Mescalito 41 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.123624, -115.495056
description
Mescalito is the smaller (1000') steeper red-capped peak in the center of the canyon, that splits the canyon into its north and south forks.
1.8.3.1. Mescalito, South Face 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.121952, -115.493321
description
This is the side of Mescalito facing southwards, into the south-fork of the Pine Creek Canyon.
Routes given from right-to-left as encountered entering the canyon.
1.8.3.2. Mescalito, East Face 19 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
This is the face of Mescalito as viewed from the parking area and approach. It runs from the buttress on the left side that Cat in the Hat ascends the opposite side of, until it wraps to the front to the right edge of the formation to the cone of bushy and low-angled outcrops at the base of the north-east corner.
Routes described left-to-right (south-to-north).
descent notes
Many of the initial routes (up to C11H17NO3) finish somewhere along Cat in the Hat, and are descended by rappelling this route.
|
1.8.3.3. Dark Shadows Wall 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.123865, -115.495305
description
This is a high wall rising almost directly out of the canyon floor, on the north side of Mescalito.
|
1.8.4. Bridge Mountain 86 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
description
Bridge Mountain is the peak that forms the north side of the canyon.
|
1.8.4.1. Out of Control Area 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
1.8.4.2. Spectrum Area 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
The tall (about 250m) buttress south-facing buttress. It has a low right-curving arch in the center, then a 2nd higher one about half-way up near the right side.
The classic, Birdland, goes up this wall.
|
1.8.4.3. Brass Wall 25 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
This is recognizable by a large triangular area of dark varnish on the south-east flank of Bridge Mountain. It is generally sunny and warm, making it a popular winter weather location.
|
1.8.4.4. Beer and Ice Gully 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.8.4.5. Straight Shooter Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
1.8.4.6. Stick Gully 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
description
The first (left-most) major gully slanting up and rightwards on the east-face of Bridge Mountain.
1.8.4.7. Flight Path Area 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
1.8.4.8. Gemstone Gully Area 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
description
The 2nd major gully slanting up and right on the east-face of Bridge Peak.
1.8.4.9. The Abutment 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.8.4.10. Eagles Nest 0 routes in Cliff
1.9. Juniper Canyon 39 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.117850, -115.488817
|
1.9.1. Rose Tower 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Olive Oil
A Red Rocks Classic! Approach: from Pine Creek parking lot, follow the main trail just past an old home foundation. Take a left here on the Oak Creek trail. This trail eventually forks right after about 15 minutes. Take a right on a faint trail heading to Juniper Canyon. Head for the Rose Tower, a rounded top pink formation by going into the second of two gullies. The first gully is the descent. The climb starts bout 250 yards up this gully after going over some boulders and a small creek, at a small clear beneath a left-facing, left-leaning chimney in a corner.
Descent: Head north off the Rose Tower (the other side of where you came from) with 1 short exposed down-climb, then hike south down the gully (gully east of Rose Tower). FA: George Urioste, Joanne Urioste & John Williamson, 1978 | 5.7 PG | 980ft, 6 |
1.9.2. Jackrabbit Buttress 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Geronimo | 5.7 | 600ft | |||
2 |
★★ MysterZ
FA: Phil Broscovak & Jimmy Newberry | 5.7 III | 1100ft, 8 | |||
3 | ★ Sweet Crude | 5.9 | 700ft, 6 | |||
4 |
★★ Buffon's Needle Problem
FA: Dave Custer & SRuff, Jan 2015 | 5.10 | 1000ft, 7 |
1.9.3. Brownstone Wall 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | High Anxiety | 5.10 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★★ The Nightcrawler
FA: George & Joanne Urioste | 5.10c/d | 540ft, 5 | |||||
3 | Time's Up | 5.11+ | ||||||
4 | Bad Guys Approaching | 5.10+ A0 | ||||||
5 | ★★ The Black Dagger | 5.7 | ||||||
6 | Paiute Pillar | 5.9 | ||||||
7 | Cat scrach fever | 5.8 | ||||||
8 | ★★★ Sweet Thin | 5.9 | 730ft, 7 | |||||
9 | ★★★ Armatron | 5.9 | 500ft, 4 |
1.9.4. The Rainbow Wall 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Brown Recluse | 5.11 | ||||
2 | The Kor Route | A | ||||
3 | Sauron's Eye | 5.10+ A4 | ||||
4 | ★★★ Original Route | 5.12 | 1000ft, 14 | |||
5 | ★★★ Rainbow Country | 5.12+ | ||||
6 | The Swainbow Wall | 5.10 | ||||
7 | ★★ Desert Solitaire | 5.9 A3+ | ||||
8 | Battle Royale | 5.9 A2 | ||||
9 | Crazy World | 5.7 A4 | ||||
10 | Emerald City | 5.10 A2 | ||||
11 | The Big Payback | 5.10 A3 | ||||
12 | Sergeant Slaughter | 5.12 | ||||
13 | Bird Hunter Buttress | 5.9 | ||||
14 | Paiute Pillar | 5.9 | ||||
15 |
Dreefee
Repetitions
FFA: 2013 | 5.13d | 12 | |||
16 |
Synthetic Happiness
A mixed bolt/gear line. | 5.13c | 9 | |||
17 | What Dreams May Come | 5.13+ |
1.9.5. Wall of Cracks 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Cloud Tower
Start 100 m right and downhill from Crimson Crysalis in a chimney. Pitch 1: 5.8, 35m, chimney and crack to double bolt belay Pitch 2: 5.9, 35m, follow crack to ledge and head left up to the crack that leads to the crux pitch dihedral. Either belay from rappel anchor (25m, step left on ledge) or build an anchor at the base of the crack Pitch 3: 5.10, 30m, hand crack and face climbing trending left to ledge below dihedral with double bolt belay Pitch 4: 5.12a, 30m, face climb past two old bolts into the techy, pumpy finger/tips dihedral. Final hand jams lead to stance with 3 bolt belay Pitch 5: 5.10, 40m, steep hand and fist crack that gets wider towards the top but face holds and a thin crack within the crack prevents any serious off width action. Build belay on gear Pitch 6: 5.something, 15m, tunnel through the chimney to reach a stance in the west side. Belay on old slings and gear Pitch 7: 5.11d, 35m, up the steep waving crack over several buldges to rappel anchor Gear: 3-4 C3#0.1-#0.3, 2 C4#0.4-#0.75, 3 #1-#3, 1-2 #4, set of stoppers Descent: rappel on the west face with single 70m rope via 6 newly bolted anchors to the ledge, walk left to the second anchor. Rap to the ground from there. | 5.12a IV | 880ft, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★★ Crimson Chrysalis
One of the best 5.8's in the world.
Descent: rap the route. FA: Jorge & Joanne Urioste, 1979 | 5.8 IV | 810ft, 9 | |||||
3 | Hook, Climb, and Whimper | 5.10 |
1.9.6. Ginger Buttress 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Ginger Cracks
Descent: Rappel off the back of the tower, watch for cacti on the ledge below - the fine spines can get into the rope sheath. Follow the zig-zag trail down to the slab below and rappel 3 more times down " Power Failure". FA: Mark Moore & Lars Holbek, 1977 | 5.9 | 920ft, 7 | |||||
2 | ★★★ Unimpeachable Groping | 5.10b | 760ft, 7, 15 | |||||
3 | ★★ Power Failure | 5.10 | ||||||
|
1.9.7. Juniper Boulders 2 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Black is Back | V6 | ||||
2 | Community Service | V10 |
1.10. Oak Creek Canyon 66 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.097662, -115.482482
1.10.1. Solar Slab Area 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.104019, -115.488197
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Feather
hard technical corner | 5.13a | 40ft, 4 | |||
2 | ★★ Red Zinger | 5.10+ | ||||
3 | ★★ The Friar | 5.9 | 320ft | |||
4 | The Friar Variation | 5.7 | ||||
5 | Horndogger Select | 5.8 | ||||
6 |
★ Solar Slab Gully
This climbs the gully to the right of lower solar slab.
Rappel the route (should go on a single 60m rope). | 5.3 | 500ft, 4 | |||
7 |
★★ Solar Slab
Approach via Johnny Vegas or Solar Slab Gully. Both are easy, Johnny Vegas is great value, too. Descent - Either do some soloing to the right of the route facing the wall, or follow cairns up and left to the Black Orchard Gully walls. A single 70m rap, (double ropes, on rope stretch just!) or multiple 20-30m raps will get you down to the slabs. From here, it's a ~hour walk down (trend UP the canyon, but down the slabs), and then back down through the canyon to the car. This descent is more tiring than the walk out, but can avoid scary scrambling and abseil madness. A single rack to 3 will get you there with some inspiring runouts if you choose to link pitches. Climb pitch 1 further than the original finish, anchor on the block half way up pitch 2. This lets you get to the p3 anchor with a 70m rope. A few other pitches can be linked (you might need to simul ~5m), making for an enjoyable day out. | 5.6 III | 1200ft, 9 | |||
8 |
★★ Johnny Vegas
Starts behind pillar that looks like it has a boulder perched on it, left of the Solar Slab Gully.
| 5.7 | 390ft, 4 | |||
9 |
★★ Beulah's Book
FA: Randal Grandstaff & Dave Anderson | 5.9 | 530ft, 4 | |||
10 | Bossa Nova | 5.11 | ||||
11 |
★★★ The Black Orpheus
FA: Jorge & Joanne Urioste | 5.10a IV | 1800ft, 11 | |||
12 |
★★★ Sundog
FA: Prochaska & Urioste | 5.9 | 1000ft | |||
13 |
★★★ Sunflower
FA: Martinet/Granstaff | 5.9 III | 980ft | |||
14 | ★★ Going Nuts | 5.7 | ||||
15 | ★ Solar Flare | 5.10 | 500ft, 5 |
1.10.2. Black Arch Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Tuscarora | 5.12+ | ||||
2 | ★★ There and Back Again | 5.8 | ||||
3 | Black Widow | 5.11 | ||||
4 | Black Betty | 5.10 |
1.10.3. Eagle Wall Area 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Chicken Lips | 5.10b | 820ft, 7 | |||
2 | ★ Rainbow Buttress | 5.8 | 880ft | |||
3 |
★★★ Levitation 29
FA: George Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Bill Bradley, 1981 FFA: Lynn Hill, John Long & Joanne Urioste, 1981 | 5.11c | 980ft, 9, 20 | |||
4 | ★★★ Eagle Dance | 5.10c IV | 1100ft, 11 | |||
5 | ★ Dances with Beagles | 5.11 | 430ft |
1.10.4. Upper Oak Creek Canyon 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Catwalk | 5.6 | ||||
2 | Oakey Dokey | 5.10 |
1.10.5. Mount Wilson 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Aid climbing and other styles
1.10.5.1. Afterburner Cliff 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.10.5.2. Ramen Pride Cliff 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.10.5.3. East Face 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Alpine climbing and other styles
1.10.5.4. Willy's Couloir 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
1.10.6. Oak Creek Bouldering 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.10.6.1. Oak Creek Proper 9 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
1.10.6.2. Oak Creek - hillside right 11 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
1.11. Mount Wilson 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: 36.087243, -115.484442
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Lady Wilson's Cleavage | 5.9 IV | ||||
2 | Son of Wilson | 5.10- | ||||
3 | Dirtbagger's Compensation | 5.10- | ||||
4 | ★★ Resolution Arete | 5.11 | ||||
5 | Blue Diamond Arete | 5.9 | ||||
6 | ★★ Dogma | 5.11 | ||||
7 | ★ Woman of Mountain Dreams | 5.11a/b V | 17 | |||
8 | Gift of the wind gods | 5.10d | ||||
9 | Coltrane | 5.10 |
1.12. First Creek Canyon 58 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.076931, -115.480187
|
1.12.1. Indecision Peak - Lucky Nuts 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.076322, -115.475803
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lucky Nuts | 5.9 | ||||
2 | Mudterm | 5.9 |
1.12.2. Lotta Balls Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.077770, -115.477752
approach
Park at the signed First Creek trailhead. It's about 1.5 miles hike along a maintained trail at first which eventually divides into various tracks along First Creek.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Power to Waste
FA: Matt Herman, Mark Herman, Derek Willmott & Mandy Kellner, 1995 | 5.8 | 100ft, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Trihardral
FA: Joe Herbst, Betsy Herbst, Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Randal Grandstaff, 1976 | 5.8 | 480ft, 3 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Lotta Balls
An excellent route with a unique and freaky crux on P2. P1) 100ft, 5.7, climb the broken face with cam placements in horizontal breaks, then move across to the left facing corner for a few moves, then follow the diagonal crack up and right to a bolted anchor. P2) 160ft, 5.8, straight up the varnished face with bizarre balls for holds, easy to the first bolt, then the balls reduce in size up to the 2nd bolt, and reduce in size further for the crux up to the crack above. The crack turns into a dihedral, follow the crack to a bolted belay. P3) 200ft, 5.7, climb the right facing corner above and move left on to the face between 10-20 feet below the roof. The angle backs-off quickly. Continue until you have no rope left and set a trad belay in the crack. P4) you're probably left with 40 foot of 4th class or maybe 5.0 climbing to the top. Descent: The descent gully is on the other side of the pinnacle you climbed, however, the safest access is to walk up and right through bushes to the highest point and down to a large tree with rappel slings. Three abseils lead down, something like 40m from tree, 20m from tree, 27m from bolts. Follow cairns and a vague track down to your packs. FA: Joe Herbst, Betsy Herbst, Randall Grandstaff & Tom Kauffman, 1977 | 5.8 II PG | 480ft, 3, 2 | |||||
4 |
★★ Bruja's Brew
FA: Todd Swain & Debbie Brenchley, 1999 | 5.9 PG | 490ft, 4, 1 | |||||
5 |
★★ Black Magic
Start on a boulder. P1) 140ft, 5.8, climb a flake to the left facing corner and bolt. Horizontal traverse left, climb right facing corner to a second bolt, the horizontal traverse back right. Climb the shallow corner/crack up to a single bolt anchor with a thread below, you can also supplement with cams above. P2) 150ft, 5.6, basically climb straight up the face, the challenge is finding gear placements, maybe wander slightly left and return right to a double bolt belay in white rock. P3) 100ft, 5.8, it looks intimidating, almost overhanging. Move right to a crack and climb to a roof, place a cam with extended sling then step out right and traverse to a bolt, then up a short steep wall to a very laid-back slab. Wander up and set a trad belay in the crack. Expect a bit of rope drag. P4) 100ft, low 5th class, straight up the crack to the top. Descent: Walk left to a saddle between Lotta Balls Wall and the main cliff. Continue down the gully on the other side down to a large tree with rappel slings. Three abseils lead down, something like 40m from tree, 20m from tree, 27m from bolts. Follow cairns and a vague track down to your packs. FA: Jorge Urioste & Joanne Urioste, 1978 | 5.8 PG | 500ft, 4, 3 | |||||
6 | Kick in the Balls | 5.8 |
1.12.3. Mysterious Ampitheatre 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: 36.078058, -115.478025
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Straight Shot | 5.11+ PG | ||||
2 | Gin Ricky | 5.10 | ||||
3 | ★★ Rob Roy | 5.10 I PG | ||||
4 | Mai Tai | 5.10+ R | ||||
5 | Friendship Route | 5.9 |
1.12.4. Romper Room Area 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.078192, -115.478195
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Guise and Gals | 5.4 | 75ft | |||
2 | Girls and Buoys | 5.5 | ||||
3 | ★★ Kindergarten Cop | 5.7 | 130ft | |||
4 | Magic Mirror | 5.5 | ||||
5 | Buzz, Buzz | 5.4 | ||||
6 | ★ Doobie Dance | 5.6 | ||||
7 | ★★ Romper Room | 5.7 | ||||
8 | Algae on Parade | 5.7 | ||||
9 |
★ Rising Moons
First pitch is an easy, protectable chimney for 150 ft. Second pitch starts on a face but quickly moves left into a dank overhanging corner. Protection is back farther in the corner. Do not be tempted to follow the right leaning flake because it will peter out after a couple of placements and then you will have a long scary traverse left back into the corner. Protection gets sparse until you pull back onto a face up to bolted anchors. 140 feet. Third pitch is an off width splitter crack, completely exposed for ninty feet. A number five cannot be placed until the very top so don't count on big gear to help you where you need it most. The first opportunity to protect is about 35-40 feet up in a small flake on the right side of the offwidth. A .75 cam will work there. A fall before reaching the protectable flake would be deadly and would probably blow out the anchor too. Fortunately the crack stays very wide so you can jam your shoulder and knee in to keep yourself feeling somewhat safe. Rock quality is excellent. Definitely not for a beginning leader. Single bolt at the top with a nice crack for pro. | 5.5 PG | 380ft, 3, 1 |
1.12.5. First Creek Slabs 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.078358, -115.479684
description
Good long easy slab routes
approach
Another 5 minutes walk beyond Lotta Balls wall from the road.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Smiley Face | 5.7 | 200ft | |||||
2 | Smooth Sailing | 5.8 | 200ft | |||||
3 | Falling Stars | 5.7 | 200ft | |||||
4 |
★★ Rising Moons
FA: Jono McKinney, 1990 | 5.5 | 380ft, 3 | |||||
5 |
★ Sunset Slab
FA: Homer Morgan, Howard Booth, Dan Allison & Joe Herbst, 1967 | 5.7 | 1000ft, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Big Sky
FA: Matt Clarke & Larry DeAngelo, 2005 | 5.7 | 1000ft, 6 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Lady Luck
FA: Catherine Connor, Jodie Bostrom, Larry DeAngelo & M Miller, 2008 | 5.7 | 1000ft, 7 | |||||
8 |
Romanian Rib, Left Side
FA: Karsten Duncan, Raluca Duncan & Larry DeAngelo | 5.7 | 1000ft, 6 | |||||
9 |
★ Romanian Rib
FA: Unknown, 1975 | 5.7 | 1000ft, 6 |
1.12.6. The Echove 5 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.078725, -115.481203
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Panda Pillar | 5.8 | ||||
2 | Comeback Corner | 5.9 | ||||
3 | ★ Hot Flash | 5.8 | 1300ft, 11 | |||
4 | Tin Pan Alley | 5.9 | 1100ft | |||
5 | Karsten's Pyramid | 5.9 | 1300ft |
1.12.7. Strawberry Hill 9 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.079866, -115.481232
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Margaritaville | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Berry Nice | 5.6 | 700ft | |||
3 | Strawberry Hill | 5.5 | ||||
4 | ★ Fine Whine | 5.9 | ||||
5 | Rolling Thunder | 5.9 | ||||
6 | Squeeze of Lime | 5.7 | 500ft, 4 | |||
7 | Under Raps | 5.10c | ||||
8 | Country Quencher | 5.7 | 550ft, 5 | |||
9 | Guitar Man | 5.10b | 200ft |
1.12.8. Slippery Peak Apron 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.081615, -115.486367
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Red and the Black | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Real Domestic Chickens | 5.10 | ||||
3 | Advance Romance | 5.6 |
1.12.9. First Creek Canyon Boulders 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Nest
FA: Daniel Woods, 2013 | V15 |
1.12.10. First Creek Canyon - Bouldering 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.12.10.1. Trieste Area 0 routes in Area
1.12.10.2. Lower First Creek 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.12.10.3. Upper First Creek 0 routes in Area
1.13. Black Velvet Canyon 92 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 36.037597, -115.463043
1.13.1. The Monument 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 36.040021, -115.462421
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Desert Crack
Steep fingers to tight hands. If you're here you're probably more interested in the roof. A black totem/0.2 BD is very helpful for the start. FA: Paul Van Betten & Sal Mamusia, 1987 | 5.12+ | 2, 1 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Desert Reality
The classic roof pitch that is best climbed by aiding Desert Crack (the finger intro) if you aren't up for the full 5.13- rig, and ripping it on lead from where the roof begins. Don't lower off the top anchor! Backjump to clean. There are a few meandering approach trails, so go up the Black Velvet Canyon track until you're certain you can see it (on the right) and pick a trail that looks good. Stays in the shade from early afternoon - perfect for a hot day. FA: Paul Van Betten & Richard Harrison, 1984 | 5.11d | 2 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Desert Gold
Begin by climbing an approach pitch (5.9 PG13) on the left wall below the massive roof. This is actually quite enjoyable. Traverse right on a thin foot ledge towards loose blocks, or continue up a massive hollow flake and then move right. This leads to a bolted belay at a sloping stance. 35 meters. Clip a bolt off the belay with a long runner and step left around the arete into a junky corner. Up this a few moves and then back onto the arete. Stretch right to the crack, place pro, and commit to the short but surprisingly steep finger crack. There is basically one move of each size - tips through hands - on the way to the roof, so no matter your hand size, there's a crux for you! Under the roof, cop a pumpy rest and avoid clipping the lowering bolt; instead launch outwards. #2 Camalots quickly widen to #3 Camalots at the lip where a jug awaits for pulling over to the top. For many this "11d" section proves to be the crux. Backjump and lower from the bolt under the roof to clean. FA: Paul Van Betten & Richard Harrison, 1984 FFA: Stefan Glowacz, 1987 | 5.13- | 1 | |||||
4 | Violent Stems | 5.12- | ||||||
5 | Clipper | 5.11- | ||||||
6 | Scumby | 5.8 | ||||||
7 | Seduction Line | 5.11 | ||||||
8 | No Name | 5.10 | ||||||
9 | Chinese Handcuffs | 5.11+ | ||||||
10 | Lizard Locks | 5.11 | ||||||
11 | All the Right Moves | 5.10 | ||||||
12 | Cornucopia | 5.10 |
1.13.2. Burlap Buttress 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 36.037401, -115.464345
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Children of the Sun | 5.10 | ||||||
2 | Unknown 1 | ? | ||||||
3 | Unknown 2 | 5.11c | ||||||
4 |
★★ Arrow Place
The first ascent party found a native American arrow head on a ledge, presumably shot at a bird and missed, then not retrievable. FA: Dick Tonkin, Jorge Urioste & Mike Ward, 1979 | 5.9 | 260ft, 3 | |||||
5 | K-Day | 5.12 |
1.13.3. Whisky Peak 30 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.034772, -115.463759
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Schaeffer's Delight
P1 has been re-bolted and good single pitch itself. Bring a few cams if just climbing P1, the final bolt leads to easy ground but still ~30 feet short of the anchor. Full rack required for P2 & P3. FA: George Urioste, Mike Petrilak & Mike Ward, 1984 | 5.7 | 400ft, 3, 7 | |||||
2 | ★★ Flared crack right of Schaeffer's Delight | 5.8 | 130ft, 2, 1 | |||||
3 | Crown Royal | 5.8 | ||||||
4 | ★★ Rain Dance | 5.10+ | ||||||
5 | ★ Bourbon Street | 5.8 | 650ft, 7 | |||||
6 | ★★★ Frogland | 5.8 | 960ft, 6 | |||||
7 | Back to Basics | 5.7 | ||||||
8 | First Grader | 5.6 | ||||||
9 | As the Toad Turns | 5.10+ | ||||||
10 | Romance Is a Heart Breakin' Affair | 5.10- | ||||||
11 | Kenny Laguna | 5.10+ | ||||||
12 | Perplexity | 5.10+ | ||||||
13 | ★★ The Misunderstanding | 5.9 | ||||||
14 | Miss Conception | 5.10 | ||||||
15 | Return to Forever | 5.10+ | ||||||
16 | ★ Mazatlan | 5.10+ I | ||||||
17 | ★★ Ixtalan p1 | 5.11c | 66ft, 7 | |||||
18 | ★★ Ixtalan | 5.11c IV | ||||||
19 | ★ Matzoland | 5.12a | ||||||
20 | Cabo San Looseness | 5.10 | ||||||
21 |
★★ Sand Felipe
A bolt ladder for some reason. But pretty good climbing. | 5.10 | 130ft, 16 | |||||
22 | Sandblast | 5.10 | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Triassic Sands | 5.10b III | 730ft, 5, 2 | |||||
24 | Cole Essence | 5.11 | ||||||
25 | Archeoptryx | 5.11 | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Wholesome Fullback | 5.10- | 250ft | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Delicate Sound of Thunder | 5.11b | 240ft, 2, 10 | |||||
28 |
★★ Our Father
Climbs up the right side of the Wholesome Fullback pinnacle. FA: Rich Wheeler, Joe Herbst, R. Grandstaff & Vern Clevenger, 1977 | 5.10d | 210ft, 3 | |||||
29 | Tales from the Gripped | 5.11 | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Only the Good Die Young | 5.11 |
1.13.4. Black Velvet Wall 24 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Spark Plug | 5.10 | ||||
2 | Cutting Edge | 5.11 | ||||
3 | Smooth as Silk | 5.10+ | ||||
4 | ★ Refried Brains | 5.9 | 640ft | |||
5 | American Ghostdance | 5.12- | ||||
6 | Sandstone Samuri | 5.11 | ||||
7 | ★★ Rock Warrior | 5.10 II R | 900ft | |||
8 | ★★ The Prince of Darkness | 5.10c III | 660ft | |||
9 | ★★★ Dream of Wild Turkeys | 5.10a IV | 1000ft, 10 | |||
10 | Yellow Brick Road | 5.10 | 430ft | |||
11 | ★★ The Gobbler | 5.10- | 240ft | |||
12 | ★★★ Fiddler on the Roof | 5.10+ PG13 | 790ft | |||
13 | Early Times | 5.10- | ||||
14 | Johny Come Lately | 5.10+ | ||||
15 |
★★★ Sour Mash
Sour Mash is one of Red Rocks finest climbs. With varied climbing, tons of thin cracks, face climbing cruxs, and an intriguing traversing roof to crack. It features a mix of styles, between traditionally protected and well-bolted pitches. The bolted cruxs with the fifth pitch being the crux pitch. Small cams to #3 Camalot are good to have. The start is easily identified by a large and deep arch on the R side of Black Velvet Wall. The route follows discontinuous cracks through the R edge of the arch's roof and then angles slightly back L as it ascends the steep wall above.
Descend via rappelling off the middle of the giant roof. | 5.10a | 650ft, 6 | |||
16 | My Little Pony | 5.11+ | ||||
17 | Velveeta | 5.10+ | ||||
18 | Malicious Mischief | 5.10 | ||||
19 | Chalk Is Cheap | 5.10+ | ||||
20 | ★★★ Texas Tower Direct | 5.12d | 560ft | |||
21 |
★★★ Epinephrine
This is it. THE classic red rocks route. And it's just as good as everyone says it is. Original route description said 18 pitches, but it can be done in as little as 11 with some boldish soloing in the upper segments.
FA: Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Joe Herbst, 1978 | 5.9 | 2200ft, 16 | |||
22 | Texas Hold'em | 5.11 | ||||
23 | Lone Star | 5.10+ | ||||
24 | Yellow rose of texas | 5.11a |
1.13.5. Western Spaces Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Stick for Toys
FA: Brad Stewart & Dan Meyers | 5.10+ | 570ft | |||
2 | Tranquility Base | 5.10+ | ||||
3 | Desert Solitude | 5.10+ | ||||
4 | The Breathing Stone | 5.11+ | ||||
5 | Western Spaces | 5.11- | ||||
6 | Black Sun | 5.10 | ||||
7 | Mr. Natural of the Desert | 5.10+ |
1.13.6. Main Boulders 10 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Freedom Fighter | V5 | ||||
2 |
Squoze
Immediately to the left of Sleepwalker. FA: Jimmy Webb, 6 Dec 2018 | V15 | ||||
3 |
Sleepwalker
First attempted by Nalle Hukkataival. FA: Jimmy Webb, 15 Dec 2018 | V16 | ||||
4 |
Return of the Sleepwalker
Sit start to 'Sleepwalker'. FA: Daniel Woods, 30 Mar 2021 | V17 | ||||
5 | ★★★ The Little V4 | V4 | ||||
6 | ★★★ Natasha's Highball | V2 | ||||
7 | ★★ Red Dragon | V7 | ||||
8 | ★★★ The Little Toe | V4 | ||||
9 | The Podiatrist | V5 | ||||
10 | The Podiatrist Sit | V7 |
1.13.7. Right Fork Boulders 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Gunga Galunga | V10 |
1.13.8. Wet Dream 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 36.035978, -115.462826
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Wet Dream
FA: Ethan Pringle | V12 | ||||
2 |
Wet Dream Right
Same start as Wet Dream but to the right. FA: Ethan Pringle | V11 | ||||
3 |
Abaddon
Zander Waller suggests V9 for the route (2023). | V12 |
1.14. Mud Springs Canyon Bouldering 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.14.1. Moonshine Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Moonshine Right
SDS on right side of boulder on decent edge feature. make your way up then traverse left following the arete edge to the apex to top out. | V4 |
1.15. Windy Canyon 24 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Rock climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: 36.017383, -115.467157
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Diet Delight | 5.8 | ||||
2 | Ain't No Saint | 5.10 | ||||
3 | Slabotomy | 5.9 | ||||
4 | ★★ Jubilant Song | 5.8 III | ||||
5 | Jubilant Song Variation | 5.5 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Hot Fudge Thursday
FA: Jorge/Joanne Urioste | 5.8 | ||||
7 | The Aid Crack | 5.10a | 50ft | |||
8 | Jackass Flats | 5.5 | 300ft | |||
9 | Action by Knight | 5.10 | 300ft | |||
10 | Brown Kisses | V2 |
1.15.1. Windy Canyon Bouldering 14 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
access issues
Lots of cholla, ticks, and fox tails, so not a very dog friendly area.
1.15.1.1. Le Cheval 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
approach
In the wash.
1.15.1.2. Big Red 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
description
Large reddish / pink boulder
approach
in prominent red gully up and left from the Sting.
1.15.1.3. The Sting 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
1.15.1.4. Daily Dab Dose 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
1.15.1.5. The Slug 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
1.15.1.6. Lower Fish Head Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
1.15.1.7. Flat of Angles 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
description
Prominent slightly overhanding prow, alone at top of gully.
approach
From warm up boulder / Le Cheval, look southwest towards other mountain. There are a series of gullies. Find pink/red breakaway at top of gully. Flat of Angles is in the gully one over to the right, high up alone on the right side. No obvious trail, only burro trails.
1.16. Scorched Earth Boulders 51 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 36.005005, -115.458578
1.16.1. Pit Boss Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.004999, -115.455668
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Low | V0 | ||||||
2 | Slow | V1 | ||||||
3 | Burnt Ends | V3 |
1.16.2. Fired Up 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.003608, -115.457883
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | White Heat | V0 | ||||||
2 | White Light | V0 | ||||||
3 | White Trash | V0 | ||||||
4 | Up in Smoke | V7 | ||||||
5 | Up in Flames | V5 |
1.16.3. Flame Retardant 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.004071, -115.456761
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Flame Retardant | V0 |
1.16.4. Hot and Bothered 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.003248, -115.459317
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hot | V4 | ||||||
2 | ★ Bothered | V2 |
1.16.5. Grandall Randstaff 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.006900, -115.457899
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Brown Eye of Sauron | V4 | ||||||
2 | The Grate Roof | V1 | ||||||
3 | ★★★ Grandall Randstaff | V4 | ||||||
4 | Very Strong Jimmy | V6 |
1.16.6. Bushwick Bill Memorial Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.007671, -115.456031
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Talkin Loud Aint Saying Nothing | V1 | ||||||
2 | Size Aint Shit | |||||||
3 | Let a Bro be a Bro | V7 | ||||||
4 | Damn it Feels Good to be a Gangster | |||||||
5 | Gangsta of Love | |||||||
6 | Life in the Fast Lane | V1 |
1.16.7. Shotgun Arete 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.003429, -115.460219
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Shotgun Arete | V2 | ||||||
2 | Shots Fired | V1 | ||||||
3 | All Guns Ablazing | V3 |
1.16.8. Fire in the Hole 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.003282, -115.460153
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Fire in the Hole | V3 |
1.16.9. Burnt Out 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.003165, -115.458991
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Burnt Out | V1 |
1.16.10. Strickland Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.004996, -115.455566
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pro-Pain | V2 | ||||||
2 | Pro-Pain Assasseries | V4 | ||||||
3 | Pro-Pain Money | V2 |
1.16.11. FyreFest 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.006637, -115.457467
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Blaze of Glory | V4 | ||||||
2 | Hot Diggity Dog | V6 | ||||||
3 | Fyre Fest |
1.16.12. Burnt to a Crimp Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.003262, -115.459096
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | arete project | |||||||
2 | Burnt to a Crimp | |||||||
3 | Smoke Meat not Drugs | V5 | ||||||
4 | Pyrotechnique | V8 | ||||||
5 | project |
1.16.13. Smoke Show 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.003295, -115.459227
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Smoke Show
FA: john heiman | V3 | ||||||
2 |
Smokey the Burro
FA: john heiman | V0 | ||||||
3 | stinky | V14 |
1.16.14. Ashtray 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.003323, -115.459219
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Ashtray | V5 |
1.16.15. I'm On Fire 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.003386, -115.459907
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Im On Fire | V4 | ||||||
2 |
Youre Not on Fire
harder low start still undone | V5 |
1.16.16. Burning Rubber 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Burning Rubber
Big ol' Slab | V0 |
1.16.17. Bait Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.004576, -115.459499
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Coyote Bait | V7 | ||||||
2 | ★★★ Shark Bait | V5 | ||||||
3 |
Bait and switch / Jailbait
Crouch start to master bait. Left hand side pull right hand crimp | V5 | ||||||
4 | ★ Master Bait | V8 |
1.16.18. Ticki Masala 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ticki Masala | V3 |
1.16.19. Wacky Tabaccy 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.002314, -115.460121
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Wacky Tabaccy | V5 |
1.16.20. Opihi Man 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.002384, -115.457981
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Opihi Man | V4 |
1.17. Illusion Crags 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 36.004063, -115.462916
1.17.1. Left Side 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Changelings | 5.6 | ||||
2 | Chameleon Pinnacle | 5.4 | ||||
3 | Morph Out! | 5.7 | ||||
4 | Mirage | 5.7 | ||||
5 | Arm Forces | 5.9 | ||||
6 | French Bulges | 5.7 |
1.17.2. Main Cliff 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Smoke and Mirrors | 5.9 | ||||
2 | David Copperhead | 5.8 | ||||
3 | Who, Deany? | 5.8 | ||||
4 | First Lady of Magic | 5.9 | ||||
5 | Deez Guys | 5.8 | ||||
6 | Con Jurors | 5.7 | ||||
7 | Sore Sirs | 5.8 | ||||
8 | ★ Spell Me | 5.11 | ||||
9 | Illusions of Grandstaff | 5.11 | ||||
10 | Petit Deceit | 5.8 | ||||
11 | Shell Game | 5.9 | ||||
12 | Magician's Hat | 5.9 | ||||
13 | ★ Slight of Hand | 5.9 | ||||
14 | ★ False Perception | 5.10+ |
1.18. The Promised Land 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.180735, -115.520630
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Hieroglyphic Prophesy | 5.12d | 70ft | |||
2 | ★★★ Confrontation | 5.13b | ||||
3 |
Spectrum
FA: Jonathan Siegrist, 2014 | 5.14c | ||||
4 | The Burning Bush | 5.13a | 50ft | |||
5 | Sacred and Profane | 5.14b/c | ||||
6 | Smite by the Sword | 5.13c | ||||
7 | Day One | 5.13b | ||||
8 | Crown of Thorns | 5.13d | ||||
9 | Fistful of Dreadlocks | 5.13a | ||||
10 | Wandering in the Wilderness | 5.12b | ||||
11 | Truth or Dare | 5.12a | ||||
12 | The Promised Warm Up | 5.11b | ||||
13 | Under the Gun | 5.12d | ||||
14 | Smite By The Gun | 5.12b |