I've tried this boulder in the past and always thought it was really hard, today I did it second try using a right ghost knee beta and fell in love with this boulder! Would be classic if it wasn't contrived! Def will repeat in the future!
Relatively easy access for an Alpine route and a good day out. Definitely a hard route to follow and straightened out a lot of the lines making it a bit harder for sure. Climbed as 5 long pitches.
It looks so intimidating when I was at the Emerald Lake but actual a lot of cracks to climb on. Loose rock approach toward the second buttress. I was exposed in the air looking down great views around me. We climbed the last two pitches following a crack ( and some slab with a small roof) on the right and finished up the Jackson-Johnson (5.9) with many fixed pins and pitons.
so there may have been an ascent of this boulder from a higher start..from Seth.. but every story has been different about it.. so not really sure what the deal is.. but I started on the nob crimpers on the face of the arete.. there is an undercling on the underside you can use to pull on too if you like that position better.. did a couple small moves to two big moves. there is room for lower start I guess.. I started where I did cause it felt natural and the low start is kinda awkward and pushes you into cookies corner then you like do this downward trav which I didn't like.. its a great v10 from where I did it ! two hard moves! one really big one!
Wow, crazy experience. Started trying last year, took me 2 or three days just to be able do all the moves. This year started started out a lil quicker, by my 2nd day this year (or it could have been third I can't even remember) I was made it up to the jug rest and fell dry firing of the slopey rail. Then the battle started. I went up there maybe 6 times after the first day of getting very close. Basically I would get to the jug like 3 times a session and 75% of the time fall because my skin was to dry/cold or my foot would pop off the smears. rarely did I feel like I was falling because I was too tired, always my third try of the day I would pump out but the first tries always felt really good,, in the end I probably made it to the jug more than 20 times... i stopped counting it got that bad. I was getting really frustrated and honestly just wanted to quit trying it for this year, but chad wouldn't let me ! credit goes to him ! ) really amped and feeling extra super fit ! Really amazing boulder with great movement, so satisfying
OMG!!!! First V7 in CO! And quite possibly the second best boulder I've ever done (Human Energy)! Outstanding moves on amazing rock and the best possible scenery as one tops out- Lake Haiyaha! Woo-Hoo-ed out loud as I topped out! Two days for this guy. On my first attempt today, I fell really awkwardly and experienced extremely sharp pain in my ankle... I hope it's OK! In any case, PSYCHED for the first big send of the season!
Usually I let this one right at the end of my sessions- today was no exception! Will attribute the send to the fact that I started campussing for the first time in over a year- HUGE move to a crimp, then keep the core tension high to match- that's it! Finally got it after Jake did his crazy beta to send it which didn't work for me
Two days for this one- pumped out the first! Crux is avoiding the dab and not pumping out at the end. Starts with a few good compression moves on slopers and crimps, then moves on to a very pumpy campusy traverse with a pumpy and psychological finish. Not stellar, but satisfied I could at least do this in a high gravity day!
Same day as magnum flash go I fell trying to cut my feet before the jump move, instead of jumping and cutting, then did the rest of the moves fast and did it from the ground my second try. Nice ass Boulder, really psyched to do it!
Did the V6 sit start variation. First V6 in Colorado! Truly amazing place. I can honestly say that this is probably the most beautiful bouldering area I have been to. The granite is unique- very featured and perfect texture. Beautiful summer day out catching up with Morgan and Alex, walked out in the rain (with a gorgeous rainbow to boot), as is traditional in the area. Looking forward to many more, hopefully soon. Perfect end of a busy week. Fingers crossed!
) really amped and feeling extra super fit ! Really amazing boulder with great movement, so satisfying
