description
About 12 single rope Rapels
Description is for climber facing the cliff
Locate the rap anchor a few meters to the left
Rap diagonally to the left towards a distinct triangular block, NOT steight down
The next anchor is to the left hand side
Rap towards the groove with the tree Do not pass the tree stop 3-4meters before.
Look left it's not super obvious but that's where the next Rap anchor is
Take care with the rope on this rap that it doesn't get caught on the trees 20m or so below. Flake it on yourself /harness.
From this point on the raps are straight forward down the face. Easy to locate, even with a headtorch if you are rappeling in the dark.
Apart from maybe rap 8 or 9 where the face becomes less slabby. The Rap is a little bit more to the left
Very good Route!
Heaps of chossy rock to look out for though
Made me feal a bit that I was climbing in the mountains...
We linked 3-4 easy
And 7-8 in a mega 70m long pitch
I would suggest not linking 1 with 2
The start of 2 can be a bit commiting, Nicer to have the belayer next to you, to stop you for decking
We aided the bolted pitch
Could have been fun to try climb it, but not fun if we wasted that time and got caught out in the dark for the last couple of pitches
Especially when you need to do 12Raps to get out Rumor has it to better Rap than do the walk off..
Route history
| 1954 | First ascent: W. Harding, J. Davis & B. Swift |
|---|---|
| 1965 | First free ascent: F. Sacherer & E. Leeper |
Warnings
Location
- Lat/Lon: 37.71733, -119.63610
Grade citation
| 5.6,5.8,5.8,5.7,5.10c,5.8,5.7,5.8,5.7,5.8,5.7 | Assigned grade |
| ★★★Scott Godwin | |
| 5.10a [5.9 - 5.10b] -- | grAId |
| 5.10c (or 5.9 A1) | ★★★Philip Armstrong |
| 5.9 A1 or 5.10c | ★★★ Rock Climbing Yosemite Free Climbs |
| 5.9 A1 or 5.10c | ★★★ Rock Climbing Yosemite's Select |
| 5.10c or 5.9 A0 | ★★★ Yosemite Ultra Classics |
Seasonality
Quality
Overall quality 82 from 57 ratings.
Difficulty - 5.10c
Based on 3 ratings.
Suggested Grade
Based on 3 ratings.
Tick Types
Comment keywords
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Erik Sloan
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781467596916
A selective guidebook describing over 350 big wall routes in Yosemite Valley, covering Ribbon Fall, El Capitan, Camp 4 Wall, Yosemite Falls Wall, Rhombus Wall, Arches Wall, Washington Column, Mt. Watkins, Quarter Dome, Half Dome, Porcelain Wall, Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap, Panorama Wall, Jericho Wall, FireFall Wall, Glacier Point, 9 O’clock Wall, Sentinel Rock, Lost Brother, The Cathedrals, Wall of Ages, Leaning Tower, Fifi Buttress, and Valley West area.
Author(s): Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781735608006
Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.
- Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
- Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
- Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos
Author(s): Erik Sloan and Marek Jakubowski
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9781532379284
A selective guidebook describing over 750 of the very best free rock climbing routes in Yosemite Valley, from 5.4 to 5.14 (F3 to F8c), with everything from single pitch routes to 1,000m+ routes on El Cap.
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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