Routes as trad in Du Toit's Kloof

Descent route.

A route up the large square-topped pillar to the left of the North West face of Du Toit's Peak

The route runs up the middle of the North-West face, breaking through the red overhangs in the centre. The initial 150m takes the the ramp to the left of that used by North by North-West, under the conspicuous triangular roof (but using the right-hand edge of the ramp). The broad pillar ahead is climbed up its left-hand side (jamming cracks), and crossed to the right on top. Thereafter, the excellent middle section of the wall is climbed in a line trending slightly to the right, through the only roof in this part. (North by North-West is crossed to the right of the A1 traverse, pitch 11. This leads straight up to the huge red overhangs, which are negotiated via the break seen from the valley, running diagonally through from right to left. Grey rock is reached, which leads with difficulty on to a steep wall to the left of the rock fall scar.

Start: under the enormous triangular roof, behind a tree where the Recess route goes up leftwards. Climb and scramble 15m diagonally to the right to ledges on the right-hand ramp.

1. [16] 35m

   Climb the right-hand side of the ramp to a tree.

2. [17] 40m

   Above the tree, swing to the right (F3) onto a nose, then continue up the right-hand side of the ramp.

3. [18] 40m

   Climb up to a recess tot he right of of a small blocky roof, then layback strenuously through the gap. Continue up the ramp.

4. [17] 30m

   Continue up clean rock to a big ledge Traverse 15m right to the left-hand side of a broad pillar.

5. [20] 35m

   Climb the jamming cracks strenuously to the top of the pillar From the right-hand side of the pillar, climb to a ledge (E3), then traverse 15m to the right to a stance below a jagged jamming crack. The route now heads for the crack system leading slightly to the right towards the triangular roof (the only roof on this part of the wall).

6. [21] 40m

   Ignore the jagged crack, climb the vertical wall on the left. Move to the right on flakes after 4m, then climb up a good thin crack for 10m (peg runner left in), until a thin traverse to the right leads to a break up on good holds trending diagonally to the right. Stance 10m up the break.

7. [18] 30m

   Continue up the break, which turns into a semi-chimney, and belay on the ledge to the right (left is the A1 traverse of N by N-W).

8. [22] 35m

   Take off up blocky rock rock from the right-hand side of the ledge, then climb the crack leading to the right-hand side of the red roof (bong left in place). Climb the flared crack in the block in the roof (3 nuts), up to a rail under the final roof, where a hanging stance can be made on the right to avoid rope drag.

9. [18] 15m

   Climb the small ledge on the right and up on tiny holds to a roof. Move left (tricky) and climb a crack to a ledge. Belay on the right.

10. [18] 35m

    Traverse to the right, past a block, the ascend the wall round the corner on square holds, with occasional runners, ending in a difficult mantelshelf move onto a ledge.

11. [18] 35m

    Above is a large coffin-overhang below all the other overhangs. Climb straight up to the left-hand edge of the overhang, up the crack leading past on the left, until a step to the right leads onto the top of the overhang. Climb up to a rail under smaller roofs, then traverse to the left for 10m (delicate) to a stance amongst blocks.

12. [19] 40m

    Traverse 15m to the left along rails, until flakes lead to a recess and up to a roof (good runner). Hand traverse to the left to a narrow ledge below a grey face. Directly below, through the red overhangs is the Bong pitch of N by N-W.

13. [21] 30m

    Climb the compact grey face from the left-hand edge of the grey face, with occasional good runners. Stance slightly to the right of the previous stance.

14. [18] 15m

    Follow a handrail round a corner to the right to a hidden crack leading to a roof. Traverse to the right along another rail to the skyline Move 20m to the right to a steep grey face to the left of the old rockfall scar.

15. [17] 40m

    Climb diagonally to the right to reach rails leading back to the left across the grey face, then climb steep blocky rock to a chimney.

16. [12] 20m

    Climb the chimney and traverse to the left under a roof to a ledge. The final ledge is one rope length higher. Two finishes are possible.

17. [18] 45m

    a) 45m: Traverse 15m to the left to a stance and the corner of the wall. Round the corner, pass a huge flake, the continue diagonally to the left, climbing steeply to a traverse across an exposed grey face. Make difficult moves off a rounded ledge and up diagonally to the left on steep rock to the final ledge (reached directly below an enormous rectangular roof on the right-hand side of the tower above.

Traverse to the right for two rope lengths into the grassy bay above the North-West face. b) 45m (16): traverse to the right under the roof on pitch 16 and ascend a pleasant grey face to the walk off ledge. Finish to the right in the grassy bay.

"The climb should only be attempted by a leader capable of mastering the most difficult of present day (1977) G routes." "It is advisable for any party attempting this route to be familiar with the technique of prussiking.

Scramble up the first pitches of Renaissance or North by North-West to the big ledge. Start on the front of the Renaissance jam crack pillar.

1. Climb the crack/recess system and continue up to the top of the pillar. Scramble to the next ledge directly above.

2. The Dark Wall: Follow the vague break leading rightwards through steep grey rock. Stance in the recess.

3. Relief. Step right and climb directly up to the highest ledge. Start right of a long block.

4. Uncertainty. Climb up and left over uncertain rock, then up to a narrow ledge. Keep right and continue for 12m to a small narrow stance. Traverse 12m left to belay at a hollow slab (peg).

5. Climb leftwards for about 8m. Starting beneath a black roof rail 13m right to a recess which is climbed to a small ledge with grass and a block.

6. Climb up for 3m from the left end of the ledge to the roof, pass it on the right wall, and continue up and left. Go diagonally rightwards to reach more laid back rock (original Renaissance A4 pitch).

1. [13] 45m

   After an awkward take-off climb up the broken face.

2. [14] 40m

   Continue up the recess which is slightly left of the corner. Continue up to the base of an easy recess.

3. [12] 25m

   Climb up the recess to a ledge. Note: the first three pitches are pretty straightforward and obvious and leads you to the base of an enticing looking jam crack in grey rock. DO NOT climb this, but move a long way left as per next pitch.

4. [13] 40m

   Traverse left around the corner. Step across a gap and then walk left to the base of an easy looking recess.

5. [13] 30m

   Move up the recess and then over broken ground to a ledge. Walk right and scramble to the top of a pinnacle.

6. [17] 45m

   Tiles pitch - Climb right across a delicate slab, then up a corner to a small ledge. Climb up 3m, followed by a traverse to the left under a small overhang. Continue up a steep bulge (past an old peg) to a narrow ledge, then up slightly left and do a series of moves back up diagonally right to a stance. The 'Smith-Rutowitz Variation' to the original 'Tiles' pitch can be climbed as follows: 6a. 12 (20m) Walk left and climb the crack in a recessed corner to the stance. 6b. 16 (40m) Climb up on the right to the overhang above. Traverse right with hands at the level of a doubtful block to a ledge (full use of the block reduces the grade to 14). From the top of the 'Tiles' pitch or the 'S-R Variation' walk right along the ledge and scramble up between the wall and a distinct pinnacle.

7. [18] 20m

   From the top of the pinnacle perform an awkward take-off and pull-up. Move right and reach up high from a low lay-away hold. A piton can be found here (this section is about as hard as the 'normal route' gets). Then traverse 3m left and up to a rib/face to a stance (the 'Suitcase Stance').

8. [20] 10m

   From the stance descend a meter or so, then traverse right and up into a crack. Climb the crack to a semi-loose block and climb out on the left and up to a sloping stance. Note: the original line took the short, obvious, but off-balance and strenuous layback directly above the stance ( good cams/wires, climbing at grade 20). A slot hidden beyond the top of the layback helps one to heave up to a sloping stance.

9. [16] 30m

   From the stance, step up and left to avoid a small overhang. Pull up a short recess. Up 4m, then follow an inconspicuous traverse right for 5m. Climb the steep slab on the right, then move left and climb a crack to a stance below a Y-shaped crack.

10. [15] 45m

    After an awkward take-off climb the Y-shaped crack to a large platform. Move right, up an undercut flake, and then left to an edge. Climb easy ground to another large platform.

11. [15] 45m

    Above and to the right is a big corner/recess, capped by an overhang. That is where you want to be. Traverse right and then angle delicately across the white slab to enter the recess about 15m above the level of the ledge. Move up the recess until it is possible to traverse right (before a seemingly more obvious traverse line), exiting around the corner to a stance on a large ledge.

12. [12] 20m

    Walk right for a short distance and choose the easiest line up a very pleasant yellow face to a narrow ledge. Note: an alternative line not as far right provides delightful climbing at about grade 16.

13. [16] 30m

    Walk left along the ledge for 10m to its left-hand end. There is a shallow recess capped by a roof up and left. Don't be intimidated - go up and left around the corner. Ascend the recess for about 3m then step left onto a corner. Traverse left under the roof and up to a small ledge. Climb up and out right on a water-worn face to a stance. You are at the top of the route.

Start about 8m left of 'D’ Ascent to Hell'. Climb up the face to the base of the vertical crack just right of the arête and follow this to a ledge.

Start below the long overhang about 10m up. On the right is a bush, start below and right of this on a brown face. Climb up and left then straight up to the bush, thru the break, then easily to the top.

One of the better routes in this sector. Has 3/4 distinct cruxes

Start at the base of a small right facing corner. Climb into this then up thru steep blocky rock to gain a good ledge. Climb the left tending break, skirting the overhangs at the top.

Start below the prominent nose with the triangular roof. Climb up to the right facing thin corner and beyond to the overhang. Traverse right till able to access a platform below a chimney. Climb up to a chimney with a crack to the left. You can either climb the sweet crack (harder) or the chimney to a ledge. Climb a short ramp to access the continuation of the chimney to the top.

Start below the left-hand side of the recessed face. Head up the indistinct dihedral-tricky for the grade. Climb the wide crack/ layback, exit right at the roof and up easier ground.

Start left of the right side of the recessed face. Climb up to the ledge and head right up the blocky break to access the crack. There is a bolted rap point at the end.

Start below the arete to the right of the recessed face. Climb between two tall blades of rock to some horizontal prongs. Move left onto the arete and left to a seam. Pull on beautiful incut holds to the rap station.

Start 4m right of 'Helter Swelter' Climb through a few overlaps to access the base of twin cracks. Climb the left crack to finish at the rap station. Line is pretty direct start to finish.

Head for the recess above. The route tends left.

Start just right of Hot Stuff. Climb to the left of a prominent projecting block to gain the block arête to the right of the 'Hot Stuff' recess. Follow the v-shaped grove up the featured arête and then straight up easier ground to the top. Belay by two convenient Protea bushes.

Start below the fridge size blocks. Climb beyond these and straight up.

Start at the base of a small right facing corner, climb this up to the ledge where you will find the crux. Pull thru this and climb diagonally right up the ramp.

Start 10m left of the right-hand end of 'Heatwave Wall' up the gully.

Start climbing from the left up a featured ramp, heading for the vague open book. Once at the tree climb the break on the right-hand face skirting the overhangs by keeping right.

Fantastic climbing for the grade

1. 17 25m

   Start 3/4m left of the acute corner, climb the slab past the lose/ keyed block. Above and left is a diagonal break/ crack. Climb through this then easy scrambling over large blocks to Stance at the base of a prominent lay-back crack/ corner.

2. 18 18m

   Climb the crack/ corner then easier ground to access a vegetated slope. There is a massive block to your right, behind this is an abseil point.

From the Burnout Wall walk through some shrubs and trees towards the scree belt. Reconnect with the vined wall. The route starts on the left-hand side in an acute corner. Climb up towards the protruding blocks to top out on Lucifers Ledge.

Access the Lucifer Ledge. Start on the left-hand side of the Burnout Wall. Climb the corner passing a bush to the roof. Exit left to access the face and go directly up overhanging terrain and up to a bottomed (small ledge 0.5X 0.5m) left-facing corner at the very top. Veering left drops the grade and the quality of the route dramatically.

I strongly recommend breaking this route in 2 pitches. The crux is a 23 traverse that is very far away from the anchor which leaves the second in a terrifying situation of rope pulling you in the wrong direction while performing the crux. Amazing route though. Traverses, cracks, roofs and vertical technical climb on the same route! Lots of fun! The crux is protected by bolts.

Start up the left crack/seam

Start up the 2nd last crack/seam. Below and slightly right of the diving board.

Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Step out left onto the Arête and climb up to the roof. Clip the bolt and move right onto the Arête, CLimb up to the top. A ring bolt awaits.

Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Climb the corner to the roof. Rail left for 3 m, pull into the bushy crack and up to finish. There is a belay bolt at the top.

Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Climb the corner to the roof. Clip the bolt and pull thru onto the face. Follow the thinner right-hand crack to finish just right of the block. The top is technical and on small gear, your belayer can't see you. There is a belay bolt at the top.

Start below the recess on the far left side of the crag. Climb up the recess (not the best rock to get there) to the ledge. Climb the break on the left, to access the diagonal right tending crack to access a rail. Rail left to the layback feature continue up to the last rail and then straight to the top.

On the lower band of rock, start on blocks a few meters left of the scramble up to 'Holey Smoke' Head leftwards and through a bulge to gain the upper right tending break. Climb the crack to top out.

Start left of the chimney. Climb the smooth face past the wide rail, shortly after move left onto a small plaform on the outermost face. Follow the right break, then straight to the top.

Start left of the chimney. Climb the smooth face to the wide (fist size) rail, rail a few meters left till under a large block. Pull over the block and continue up to another rail and rail slightly left to join 'Sceptre' below the awkward recess, climb this to top out.

Climb the arête to the right of the chimney.

Climb the crack to the top, A #3, #4 and #5 are very useful. Amazing finish! Amazing route.

Climb the easy looking off-width on the right of the crag. Two #'4s will reduce the terror factor.

Starting on the lower band of rock on the right. Start below a red corner, climb up to this and to the top. It seems you can climb out left or right of the red corner.

Start 5m right of 'Gemstone' below a flaring crack.

Climb up to the base of the crack and straight up to a hand rail. Traverse 2m left to finish up a slab corner.

Climb the left crack.

Climb the middle crack.

Climb the obvious corner.

On the left-hand side part of the ledge step (1-2.5m) over a gap and climb the break to the top

Start on the furthermost part of the prominent ledge. Climb the break to the top

Start 2m left of 'Taratus'. Climb the crack/ break.

Start below the twin cracks, climb the crack/s to the top.

On the right of the main ledge climb the break, keeping on the left Aretê

On the set back face on the right. A direct strenuous start leads up to a crack. Climb the crack and stem to top out.

Start on the block below the low overhang on the far right of the crag. Pull up of the block onto the juggy face and follow chicken heads and gargoyles to the top

Start on the lower tier on the face to the left of the prominent open book. Start on the left-hand side. climb diagonally right then up to the crack above. There are loose flakes at the base of the crack so be careful. When the crack gets hard exit right and up to finish.

Start below the large brown open book, Climb the open book to top out.

Descent: Walk down the Cape Town side.

Descent: Walk down the Cape Town side.

Climb the obvious crack. Gets some of the first sun in winter. Descent: Walk down the Cape Town side.

Descent: Walk down the Cape Town side.

Short but engaging start to finish-technical

, one of the best in the 'Valhella Area'

Start: the next column right of 'Valkyrie' Climb the obvious crack to the top.

Start: The next pillar right of 'Ragnarök' Climb the finger crack to the left of the inset face, up to a wide rail. Climb through the centre of the teeth and up, exiting right.

Climb the wide crack to the base of the twin cracks. Climb the right finger crack into the next wide crack to finish.

Start: Above 'Synthesis' Climb the hand crack to the top.

Start below the short arete left of 'Magma'.

Start below a recess ±5m left of Wicked Wall's large corner. Climb the recess staying right of the arête, climb the crack onto easier ground moving diagonally left for the corner crack made by a block. Climb the stepped arête, then onto the face moving right. The route finishes up the rotten groove to the right. A much better finish is using that of 'Moses' Tablet' up the right facing corner.