description
(5.7) 150': Sidepull a wide crack to step over a bulge to start, then a few bolts on easy face lead to a steeper wall with a splitter crack. Jam the crack to more blocky crack and face climbing to a bolted anchor at a nice ledge.
(5.10c or 5.9 A0) 95': Easy fifth and a bolt to a ledge, clip the bolts here and either do 10c moves on a small blank section, or 5.9 A0. Four bolts spaced very close together makes for easy aid. A couple more bolts and face moves. Bolted anchor.
(5.9+) 105': A short 5.7 crack section, and then either right on bolts at 5.7 or left on harder slab with a 5.9+ section that isn't easily aided. Bolted anchor just above the roof.
(5.9) 120': Likely the best pitch, a finger crack section heads to ledge (skip the anchor) followed by a short, easy 5th section. Bolted anchor.
From the end, either walk off via the Swab Slab gully or continue on for three more pitches of "Yose University". For the latter, walk a little right then cut left on a nice ledge until you spot a couple bolts for the next climb.
Route history
| Apr 2022 | First ascent: Erik Sloan & Friends |
|---|
Warnings
Location
- Lat/Lon: 37.74538, -119.60006
Grade citation
| 5.7,5.10c,5.9,5.9 | Assigned grade |
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781735608006
Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.
- Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
- Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
- Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos
Author(s): Erik Sloan
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781467596916
A selective guidebook describing over 350 big wall routes in Yosemite Valley, covering Ribbon Fall, El Capitan, Camp 4 Wall, Yosemite Falls Wall, Rhombus Wall, Arches Wall, Washington Column, Mt. Watkins, Quarter Dome, Half Dome, Porcelain Wall, Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap, Panorama Wall, Jericho Wall, FireFall Wall, Glacier Point, 9 O’clock Wall, Sentinel Rock, Lost Brother, The Cathedrals, Wall of Ages, Leaning Tower, Fifi Buttress, and Valley West area.
Author(s): Erik Sloan and Marek Jakubowski
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9781532379284
A selective guidebook describing over 750 of the very best free rock climbing routes in Yosemite Valley, from 5.4 to 5.14 (F3 to F8c), with everything from single pitch routes to 1,000m+ routes on El Cap.
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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