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Five Open Books

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Description

Top is extremely loose and sloped with huge amounts of loose stuff. Be very careful moving around, setting up or tearing down belays, coiling rope, etc so as to not drop rock on climbers below.

Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

As of 27/06/22:

-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )

-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.

Descent notes

Walk up (away) from cliff front to obvious climber's trail that goes (climber's) left and down, then back to skier's left. One (optional) rap, which may be preferred if 3rd/4th class slab traverse is wet.

Routes

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Grade Route

Located in the leftmost dihedral of the five open books area, this route begins with a 4th class scramble up to a bush. Then it's two or three pitches of varied climbing with corners, cracks, friction slab, and a bulge. Be careful of loose rock at the top, and consider belaying from the trees to the right instead of the left. Walk off left to descend with an optional single rope rappel.

FFA: Tom Fender & Vic Tishous, 1966

Starts from a tree up the same 3rd class ramp as Munginella, but after having traversed further across the ledge the ramp reaches. Or can be reached from right as well by descending, then re-ascending around the foot of the cliff.

FFA: Jim Bridwell, David Bircheff & Phil Bircheff, 1966

FFA: Pete Spoecker & Steve Herrero, 1965

FFA: Jerry Anderson & Jim Pettigrew, 1970

FFA: Ed Leeper, Dave Trantor & Steve Herrero, 1964

FFA: Jim Bridwell & Vic Tishous, 1968

Areas

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781735608006

Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.

  • Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
  • Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
  • Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos

Author(s): Erik Sloan

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781467596916

A selective guidebook describing over 350 big wall routes in Yosemite Valley, covering Ribbon Fall, El Capitan, Camp 4 Wall, Yosemite Falls Wall, Rhombus Wall, Arches Wall, Washington Column, Mt. Watkins, Quarter Dome, Half Dome, Porcelain Wall, Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap, Panorama Wall, Jericho Wall, FireFall Wall, Glacier Point, 9 O’clock Wall, Sentinel Rock, Lost Brother, The Cathedrals, Wall of Ages, Leaning Tower, Fifi Buttress, and Valley West area.

Author(s): Erik Sloan and Marek Jakubowski

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781532379284

A selective guidebook describing over 750 of the very best free rock climbing routes in Yosemite Valley, from 5.4 to 5.14 (F3 to F8c), with everything from single pitch routes to 1,000m+ routes on El Cap.

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Wed 7 Jun
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