Routes in Africa for selected grade

Got to be extra strong for this one. First pitch is a 23, there is a bit of everything to get to the anchor, climb it efficiently. Second pitch, mske your way to the roof move right over the cracks up and over to the anchor. First pitch has been open, second pitch haven't been open at the moment.

All the bolts on Avalon, except the top one which is still ok, were replaced in October 2005 with 10 mm stainless. It is fully bolted, but has no top anchors so take a friend 1.5, friend 2.5 and a few big wires and some slings for the top. It is easy to scramble off from the top of the route. The original route breaks left at the last bolt (26). Carry on up and right for the direct finish (28)

Climbs the overhanging blocky wall opposite 'Pasta Noises' and "Trundle Time'. Holes for about 5 bolts drilled, but no bolts added. Will need additional trad gear.

Takes a rising line on up the obvious leaning wall on the true right (east) side of the kloof, starting 20-30 m above the kloof base – access is best by an easy ab down the ramp of 'Cannon Fodder' ±50m downstream of the junction with Cedarberg kloof. An easy 15' stroll from Utopia. You can see 'Geomancer' from the top looking upstream from the top of the 'Cannon Fodder' slab. With a spare rope abseil off an obvious big tree on a flat ledge/block at the top of the 'Cannon Fodder' corner, down the slab to a perched belay about 10 m above a massive (meters across) chockstone. The climb starts off the slab beside a very white niche. Make hard moves to gain a corner. Move up the corner until you reach a point where there is a wicked slopey handrail just around the arete to left (place high gear in a corner before you go left) – reach the rail, cut loose and campus left then up with difficulty before you can step left to a jug rest. Face climb to a tricky hand-jam and bomber gear below the steep headwall. Continue up right and then slightly left up to before the ledges. Gets shade until 1-2'ish.

Climbs the row of 4 bolts about 3m right of the arête, heading for the break above.

“I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.” Bene Gesserit Litany Against Fear.

Like the Dune quote this route is dramatic. It weaves through the steep bowl between the top pitches of 'Boggle' and 'Project 22' and finishes just right of 'Boggle' chains. There is no fixed gear and, for the hard bits, the gear is bomber. There are great views of it from 'Frog Gully' or the 'Boggle' abseil.

Find your way to the tree on the sloping 'Cedarberg Traverse' ledge. This is halfway up the crag, about midway between Project 22 and Suicide. There are a few ways to get here: a) The easiest is to rap in from 'Boggle' chains, placing gear. The second then removes the gear and gets hauled into the stance. This is a good option to excavate wasps. b) Climb 'Cedarberg Traverse' . This is easy, but dirty and scrappy. c) Climb the first pitch of 'Boggle' and traverse right, beneath the big roof, passing the chains of the first pitch of 'Climbing In bed with Madonna'

1. [28R] 25m Climb just left of the tree to a ledge with large loose flakes then traverse left to a ledge beneath a pillar ('Suicide' stances here, then traverses out left to 'Boggle' ledge). Climb to a perch on top of the pillar, then continue diagonally right up the break to a rail. The climbing to here is bold, although relatively easy (21ish). Place bomber gear and rail right along the lip of the roof until able to pull through on jugs. Climb up to the next roof, step left then bust through, initially on big side pulls to gain a short, left-facing dihedral. Climb the blunt arête to the next overlap, then move left and up to the obvious finishing break. Fight the pump up then right to the arête to a shake. Suck up the exposure and do the last few moves diagonally left to the top.

On the left of THE POWERS THAT BE.

1. 20m 28 Climb up the wall past the bolts to the top.

A classic sustained route, a must do!

The third bolted line downstream from the big pool, starting at the undercling just left of the tree. A short bouldery route, pack in the power.

The kloof's classic line. A pumper all the way to the chains.

Was left abandoned because it shared a crux hold with Resident Evil. After the contravercial bolting of Minesweeper, the route was tried again and sent. The route shares one hold but is used conpletely differently than Resident Evil.

The last line in the kloof on the overhanging side.

Amazing to think this one was hiding for so many years, just like Homo Naledi. It’s big and steep and will blow your mind and your forearms. Starts at the top of the ramp in the Middle Sector. Belay is easiest from the stream. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.

Starts at a base under a jagged three step roof with three bolts of super sequential powerful climbing into six bolts of very sequential technical climbing. The falls are cleaner the harder you try, don't shout "take", just wip. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.

Ontop of the grassy ramp. Slightly overhanging broken crack system with a karate chop signature movement NEEDS REBOLTING.

Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings.

Starts from the ground not from cave. T-Pex direct. Much better from the ground. Don’t think it should ever be climbed from cave!

Crimpy cruxy.

Eliminate

Eliminate

Climb the scooped face up the middle.

Some fun roof climbing with interesting moves. Feels like a gym climb.

Starts on Keep Walking Johnny, then busts out left after Johnies crux to an arete. The line then joins Black Out for its last 3 bolts and ends on Black Out.

Sit start on the left with a crimp and a side pull. Go directly up

Sit start on the big edge on the corner. Move diagonally right

Stand start on the very left hand side of the crag.Without using the roof traverse well below it staying low.top out in the open book on the far end of the crag just before jonnie cash

Stand start.Climb the arete of the main overhang by hugging it all the way up then top out

To the far right, the last face before the path heads up again, between two small bushes / trees. Sit start on low crimp/rail for both hands (bad feet), move up to big side-pull and end with a big dyno to a slopy edge to the far right. May not use the obvious rail on top. Move to the right of the buldge on the top rail.

The blade like curving arête gives sensational climbing. How classic? Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Up the middle of the wall. Starts with some cool moves up a mini arête then sustained technical stuff all the way to the chains. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Up the middle of the obvious stellar red wall. A bouldery start (don’t cheat by starting on the left), and pumpy mid-section, then a crazy rail right then back left to some trickery. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Starts in the corner and heads up through the big roofs. Full set of spectacular moves makes for a magical finale.

The beautiful technical red face (see photo) then wild moves through the roof. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

Start a few meters right of Slaughterhouse 5. pre-clip 2nd draw to avoid awakward fall under the roof.

A good 160m from the narrow gully are the unmistakable compact 40m wide ‘grey slabs’, with very few holds on it. Stolen Goods takes the obvious weakness at its centre via some technical footwork and a leap of faith. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Name written on the rock.

Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Low in the grade.

Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move.

26-28 Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like the FA; opened at 28.

The shortest climb in the gully, on the right. Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder (do not use this boulder during your ascent). 28 Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top.

Start as for 'Kannie-Ballistic' but head up straight through the roofs.

A few metres right of 'Heroes' is a right trending line. Hard for the short but 27 for those with a wingspan. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Start on the blocky arête right of 'The Bovenator'. Up past some reachy cruxy stuff then with sustained interest up the face to the chains.

Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top.

The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The only line with ring bolts. Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29.

Start 2 m left of 'Freak On'. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs.

Start up the first 5 bolts of 'Big Bad Wolf' then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A rest before the crux detracts from the climb. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.

The blank wall left of the leaning pillar. Hard start then a tricky traverse to the left.

Tackles the short prow with some poor holds! Bouldery and fun.

The arête behind the tree. Super technical on-balance moves, low in the grade.

he hard-looking face climb to the right of 'Cactus Palace'.

SA‟s most famous sport climb. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. Please brush the holds when you are done.

The line that should have been here first! Start up 'Welcome to Ovamboland' for 2-3 bolts then move left onto 'Karfoefeling'; then after clipping 2 bolts on the face above the last roof/overlap section, move back onto 'Welcome to Ovamboland' at the juggy break (rest) on the slabby part. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag!

A crimpers delight! Climb first couple bolts of 'Bikini Red' then branch left and up the crimpy wall. Was opened at 26 but apparently its not. MCSA Bolts

Mega power problem just right of the arête. Stick clip the first bolt.

The obvious arête, probably very good.

Clip 'Blockbuster' first bolt, then continue straight up as 'Blockbuster' trends slightly right. Low in the grade.

The steep and thin orange slab at the top of the approach chasm, just right of 'Wizards' arête. Use 'Wizards' lower-offs.

A fantastic line. Takes the right hand edge of the eye-catching face.

Breaks through the roof 20m right of 'Urisk the Rustic Brownie'.

Starts just right of the arête from a great ledge. Involves a long dyno and a very fingery headwall. An awesome climb in an awesome place.

Starts from the chains on the left of the ledge. Power moves take you steeply left and up the headwall. Was opened at 27.

Climb straight up from the third bolt of 'Fudge Beats Burfee' through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Start on the pocket at waist height, bad foot grips, slap out left then top out on top of the boulder. ( Boulder nexto it is out ) A big armspan helps alot.

Sit start on a boulder 8m down from the Living the Dream Boulder

As you enter the complex, from the escarpment side, the first problem on the left, starting on pockets, one move wonder – could be soft.

Sit start L.H on a sloper, R.H on a small slopey edge. Move up the face, slapping up the arête to T.O.

Start as for E.C. Move to a flat jug in the middle of the boulder. Use crimps to move up the middle of the face.

Sit start as above, but use the arête feature to top out.

Stand start using pockets and crimps. Go up to the midway undercling/roof. T.O tending slightly right.

Sit start R.H on a small sharp (side pull)crimp, L.H low down on a good side pull crimp. Move up using the face only to T.O.

Stand start under the overhanging arete, side pull L.H, crimp RH. Move up to a jug then ,use the arête to T.O over the lip.

Do not use the slab in front for the feat.

Stand start matched on a good crimp. L.H up to a 2 finger pocket, slap up using slopers to T.O. Pads are needed.

Sit start with both hands on underclings. Move up to the lip, then traverse left- deadpointing to a jug with the left hand to T.O

Sit start on left of the boulder. Traverse over to the right and top out.

Start on big jug and climb left on awesome slopey crimps.