Dreadnought Gully All Trad climbing 25 routes in cliff

A shady outing for a hot day, starting in 'Dreadnought Gully' then taking the rock between the Dreadnought and Starless Buttresses. Nod and Norm did it years ago but detoured around some challenges on the second pitch. Nod and Kieran have now straightened it out with the addition of a comforting bolt.

1. 25m (14) Up grey rib directly opposite Dreadnought, finishing up the roof crack left of the chains. Belay, then walk up the gully 20m to where the Dreadnought Buttress abuts the main cliffline at a corner.

2. 40m (16) Climb the water-polished line 3m left of the corner, trending right after about 10m. Continue trending up the grey wall right of some yellow patches of rock, then straight up centrally via a distinctive line of white spots (no, it’s not chalk) followed by a bulge, where a BR shows the way.

3. 40m The gothic headwall above features an obvious black water streak. Traverse right from the gulch and follow black streak to the top.

This is an easier version of The Catacombs. A pretty shady climb.

1. 30m As for The Catacombs – finishing via the chains (?M1) if you don’t want to do the grade 14 roof.

2. 30m Up the steep juggy crack as for The Catacombs second pitch for about 12m, then trend right up the grey wall just left of the corner. Belay in the chasm behind the top of Dreadnought Butttress.

3. 15m Climb the upper side wall of the chasm, left of a gnarly chimney.

4. 40m Follow the prominent steep crackline up the headwall, left of the final pitch of The Catacombs.

Fun climbing. Good for a hot day as its mainly in the shade.

1. 25m (14) Up first pitch of The Catacombs. Belay then walk up 20 meters, under the giant chockstone until you can see a big corner crack.

2. 13m (15) Climb corner crack and belay at top. Watch out for loose block at the top.

3. 30m (16) Climb directly up face for around 5 meters with no holds into crack. Climb crack and traverse right onto slab. Slab starts on a corner ledge and goes up for around 20 meters past bolt. Belay from top of giant round boulder roughly 8 meters above bolt. In the first section it's a bit run out if you're into that sort of thing.

I will go back next trip and install some anchors so lowering off is an option instead of having to climb the headwall (super easy).

This one is on the L side of the gully, opposite all the other routes. You need to scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought to find it. Out the roof on the L, past a hidden BR. Very bold getting to bucket, around which you need to place a long sling for your next piece of pro.

High up on the Dreadnought Buttress. Approach as for Short Time. Start at the gully 1.5m right of an arete and left of Short Time. Take the overhang, up to small roof, BR, then L to arete. Over bulge, then up until you find a bollard good enough to rap off.

Takes the southwest arete of the Dreadnought Buttress, from a ledge above Intergalactic Space Patrol. Approach the ledge via a crack just right of Cranking for Jesus.

This route used to have a cairn of boulders - from which you would lean across the Dreadnought Gully void to reach the opposite wall - but they're no longer there (seeing that they would be built on a downward sloping ledge, that's not too surprising, and it's probably not a great OH&S practice either). Apparently this route used to have a fixed wire too. Even with those things in place, it would probably still be a Moorhead sandbag.

Once you're past the bouldery start, the difficulties soon ease.

Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully! To reach the start of the route, scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought, to the big chockstone in the depths of the gully.

Up short corner, then to the arete past bolt, then up and left to thin crack, then through overhangs to bolt, before moving up into left-facing corner.

The original version of Last Temptation. Climb the short arete, then up to roof. Break right over the hanging slab and join Great Temptation at its redpoint crux (also the point where the ledge is nearest). Finish as for that route.

Access via the chockstone halfway up the grade 4 access wall. You can also get here from the top of Dreadnought p1. Hand traverse, then the very overhung crack.

The opposite wall is very close, so this route requires a very capable trad leader, or you might consider preplacing (easily done by leaning over from ledge then coming down the line from there). Also a good belayer is essential, and don't belay from the ground as there is no margin for excess ropestretch.

Starts on the small stance 5m up and left from the DRB above Dreadnought pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of Great Temptation. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top.

Start at the back of Dreadnought Gully, 1m L of a 'D' chipped in the rock.

1. 12m (24) Launch up steep crack weakness 2m R of HaL to DRB.

2. 16m (23) Continue up marbled bulging crack above. This pitch often seeps but is still climbable.

3. 20m (-) The corner to the top is part of the original route but not really worth doing. If you do, you might need to fashion some sort of abseil to get off the top.

I nearly called this "Dreadnought Variant Left Hand Direct Variant Start". Start up Dreadnought and continue up the right seam to the top out of Dreadnought Variant.

Main left-trending diagonal, beginning with a reachy dynamic start, then trending reachily left across jugs to a cruxy exit, which is just a tad reachy. Short people often find Dreadnought easier. May well be 23.

Start as for Dreadnought Variant but then stretch right to jugs, bolt and unique pillar pinch, finishing up and slightly left via a thin crux section. Powerful.

Start 1m right of Dreadnought Variant and climb up past small pocket to slopey horizontal breaks. Past 2 bolts then traverse right to join No Exit near the top, and finish as for that route.

Start 10m R of Dreadnought below bottomless crack.

1. 15m (25) Extremely bouldery face leads to crack finish. Beware of the name!

2. 30m (23) Sensational. Thin corner, L on slab, up thin crack, then diagonally L. Rap off the top of Dreadnought p2.

Start 8m R of NE. Or you can avoid the crux start by starting further R.

1. 25m (22) Hard boulder problem start leading to more moderate crack weakness. At top of crack, veer left up nose below arete.

2. 8m (21) The flake on the arete to the next ledge.

3. 20m (-) Step L onto the front of the arete, spectacular over bulge, then easily to ledge.

4. 22m (-) Easily up. It's also possible (and maybe better) to simply traverse R and find a bollard to rap off.

Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on Dunes Buttress).

1. 25m (14) Bad rock and bad pro. From the ferny cave at Lawrence's first belay, traverse L, then go up diagonally L for 10m to ledge.

2. 20m (-) Steeply to ledge, step R off boulder, then traverse back L and up to the summit of Dreadnought pinnacle.