★★★ Morfydd 19

Grade context: AU
Length: 30m
Ascents: 744

description

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at Arapiles. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch. Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle. Rap anchor at the top.

Route history

29 Jun 1968	First ascent: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75763, 141.84482

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

19	Assigned grade
19	★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs
19	★★ RockGUIDE: Victoria
20	★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
21 [20 - 21] ++	grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 83 from 367 ratings.

Difficulty - 19

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 23 ratings.

Suggested Grade

19
20

Based on 23 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight	174	174
Flash	19	19
Red point	55	55
Top rope	1	1
Tick	74	74
Pink point	6	6
Attempt	90	90
Target	7	7

Comment keywords

fingers smooth jamming lip face pinch shady slippery feet rest slopey interesting crack awkward bridging hands flake epic undercling dry steep bad easy stout roof technical jugs sharp layback amazing enjoyable stoked beautiful fantastic ripper perfect classic rad sweet lovely classy good super cool superb brilliant great awesome wicked fun nice tough sustained overhung tired difficult pumped solid hard struggle desperate dyno crux challenging sandbag crank committing scary fall terrifying intimidating tricky

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Buy

ⓘ

Arapiles 444 Of The Best Climbing Guide

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Buy

ⓘ

Sublimb Climbs

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Buy

ⓘ