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D Minor Pinnacle

Seasonality

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Description

The completely separate pinnacle at the L end of the Organ Pipes.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Descent notes

Rap stations atop Cadenza and Aardvark.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Chris George, 1974

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975

Start at the top end of the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, opposite Lemmington. The thin crack over low overlap then R-facing flake to chains.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ed Neve, 1975

Start just R of Aardvark original start. The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above.

FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966

FA: Alec Campbell, 1966

FFA: Dave Jones & Rich Heap, 1996

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow it into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse 5m right to a tricky exit.

FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975

Follow the seams straight up from the start of Cadenza to the break, then finish up Cadenza. Take care as gear is hard to see and place.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

Thin and glassy. Start 2m R of The Philosopher. Climb past 2 bolts, join The Philosopher, then at first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of D Minor. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though. Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the Quaver chimney.

  1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into Quaver. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of D Minor.

  2. 10m (20) Up arete left of D Minor - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Allen, 1964

Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

1 10 25m
2 14 10m

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964

Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

Essentially the right arete of D Minor. Start 2m R of D Minor. Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.

FA: Tony Dignan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

Good line up right side of D Minor Pinnacle. Start below bulging crack on arete right of D Minor.

  1. 16m (16) Climb line past bulge.

  2. 14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974

Warning Flora and Fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

The little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

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