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1 15 30m
2 16 R 30m
3 14 30m

description

Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock. With modern gear it is not nearly the scare fest it used to be. Start at the gorgeous water streak up the middle of the face that commences off the slight ledge just above the path.

  1. 30m (15) Climb to the ledge. Marginal gear.

  2. 30m (16) The best pitch. Amazing climbing on incredible rock. Blast straight up the wall heading for the tree ledge.

  3. 30m (14) A wandering pitch, starting from the left hand end of the ledge, and heading up and left.

© (secretary)

Route history

16 Jun 1975First ascent: Keith Lockwood & Andrew Bowman

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75165, 141.83671

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

15,16 R,14 Assigned grade
16 private
16 RockGUIDE: Victoria
16 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
16 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
16 [15 - 16] grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 83 from 408 ratings.

Difficulty - 16

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 6 ratings.

Suggested Grade

16

Based on 6 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 258
Flash 11
Red point 20
Top rope 1
Tick 182
Attempt 8
Target 13

Comment keywords

scary runout intimidating committing fall tricky terrifying dry hands slabby easy crack pockets balancy face smooth bad cruisy technical mantle chimney epic polished rest weird fiddly contrived sunny fingers short interesting slippery feet stoked sweet super classic fun classy perfect pleasant lovely beautiful awesome incredible great superb good enjoyable nice wicked exciting rad brilliant amazing fantastic solid tired hard sustained crux challenging

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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