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Dreamworld

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Description

Dreamworld are the obvious boulders 40m from the road, on your R as you approach the Horn car park. Park at the lowest end of the Horn carpark. Wander back down the road for 100m. The path, sometimes marked by a cairn, drops down the embankment and goes between the two biggest boulders. There's a little scrambling for the last 20m but it's still only a 3min access!

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

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Routes

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From Continental Drift to Injustice are located on this boulder

The right arête of the west-most face. A cruxy start. An optional cam for the upper groove (just R of the arete) is useful.

Start between 'Continental Drift' and 'Buffalo Soldier', head up and right to clip the 2nd bolt on CD, then left to BS, finishing right over semi-detached block/flake.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Anthony Bishop

The first 2/3 of this was retro-bolted during the retro-bolt of 'Spaceman Spiff"

Starts 2m right of "This is not our land". Up on good flakes past 6 glue in m10 g304 stainless bolts. Fun, good warm up for "This is not our land" but better protected.

Was originally a very bold trad route, but was inadvertently retro-bolted and renamed to 'The Day After Invasion Day' in 2012, presumably as a result of an incorrect topo in the 2006 guidebook, which showed 'Spaceman Spiff' as being several meters right of the climb's actual location.

FA: Bill Ottaway & Kiersten Price, 1989

The left side of the left dyke, wandering rightwards slightly as it goes up. Three carrot bolts. Harder if you're short.

The left arête of the west-most face. 3 carrot bolts, one fixed hanger and a couple of sling placements.

Grade varies greatly dependant on height, grade 21 if over 6', much harder if shorter.

The severely overhanging dyke on the underside of the boulder to the left of 'This Is Not Our Land' and 'Injustice'. One carrot and three fixed hangers.

FA: Gerhard Horhager

The east face of the 'This Is Not Our Land' boulder, and opposite to 'Beware the Strathbogie'. Two carrot bolts.

5m right of 'Needlepoint For Beginners'.

The wall covered in protrusions, left of 'Eat Your Vegies'. Starts as for 'Needlepoint For Beginners', but then steps over the void to the juggy wall opposite.

A good brush often will be more useful than chalk, boulder located on the map. You can get here through the tunnel that starts on the left of the Main Wall.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff

Date: 2006

"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.

The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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Wed 7 Jun
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