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Tupameros Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 3

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Access issues inherited from Sandinista Cliffs

Sandinista is split into East and West in the GGLMP. Everything East of the tourist trail is "Designated".

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A few interesting moves down low.

Start: Starts almost immediately left of where the tourist track swings back right and cuts up through the cliff line. A small tree and stump is at the base. The route is marked with a white square.

  1. 18m (22) Up a few metres (crux) on flakes and pockets, step right to the slabby closed orange corner, and up this to a ledge. Traverse 5m right.

  2. 25m (18) Follow the stepped line up and left to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff (alt leads), 1983

The crux pitch is a gem. The rest is very average. Best to skip the first two pitches and walk in via 'Hamster Roof'.

Start: Starts 6m left of the tourist track. The shallow orange corner with a gum tree growing out at 2m.

  1. 10m (21) Up the shallow blocky corner to step left.

  2. 20m (21) The short diagonal crack which tends left to meet the easier rightward leaning line, and so to a ledge.

  3. 15m (21) Crux. Walk 5m left to the large 35 degree overhanging right facing corner. Up this with difficulty, then step right at top onto juggy grey wall and onwards to ledge. Scramble off to the left to exit.

FA: Jeff Lamb & Kevin Lindorff (Var leads), 1983

Start: Starts 2m right of the top pitch of 'Firepower', which is 10m left of 'Hamster Roof'.

  1. 15m (21) Up the crazily overhanging flake and beyond to the terrace.

  2. 15m (21) Wander up right easily.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1990

Starts 5m left of 'Mujahideen' at a left leaning corner.

  1. 15m (21) Left and up the corner to the crack and overhang at 5m. Move left on the ledge then up on a good slope to a few steep juggy moves up and right to an inverted V corner and big ledge.

  2. 20m (21) Up closed corner, left-ward under the overhang then left and then left and up to join 'Mujahideen' near top of its second pitch. Finish as for that climb.

FA: Simon Atkins & Michael Woodrow Alts

Start: Starts at the little grey undercut corner a little way left of 'Mujahideen'.

  1. 20m (20) Up, then tend left taking the line of least resistance to the big ledge.

  2. 10m (20) Crux. Take the twin face cracks on the rightward facing wall (left of the impressive blank corner). Move around left and up to big ledge.

  3. 15m (15) Traverse easily left to the prominent line. Up this.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1980

Initialled. Varied and interesting, especially with the direct finish.

Start: Starts about 15-20m left of 'Mujahideen', at an aesthetic rightwards leaning layback crack/groove.

  1. 25m (22) 2 bolts plus trad. Up the groove then straight up blocky corner to the bulge (without stepping left onto the nose above the initial groove which was how it was originally climbed, pre bolts). Negotiate the bulge and up a few metres to a ledge. There is a double bolt rap anchor for those not wanting to bother with the significantly easier second half of the climb and the long scramble off.

  2. 40m (17?) The major right facing corner starting on ledge. (the top of this pitch is the same as for Tupamaros).

FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff (Alt leads), 1983

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, 2016

Start: From the terrace below the final section of 'Gunboat Diplomacy' take the prominent overhanging flake which is a five metres right of the last pitch corner pitch of 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. When the flake peters out, move up left to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983

Un-repeated? Short, smooth and hard.

Start: The right hand hanging corner from the terrace above 'Gunboat Diplomacy' and 20m left of 'Guinea Pig Flake'.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990

Another trademark HB roof climb. Shitty looking rock but climbs well.

Start: The flaky roof on the right side of the terrace immediately above Gunboat Diplomacy's first pitch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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