Ascents in Central Western Slope and Plains

Absolute classic!

Lucky last on the birthday link up with Bluff Mountain and Crater Bluff - 15 hours and 55 minutes car to car. Also better than I remembered. We managed to find the base in the light which was nice as the scrambling was more involved than I remembered. Climbed the whole route in the dark and then rapped down etc etc yay we are done. Walked back to the car and ate some left over pasta my dad had made. Then we got in the car and left. A fun 21 hours in the Warrumbungles with 3 hours of sleeping and 18 hours of walking, eating, faffing, and rock climbing. I always say birthdays are for suffering but this one was really just silly and fun. Thanks for skippin’ school Haz.

Number Two on the birthday link up with Bluff Mountain and Belougery - 15 hours 55 minutes car to car. Soloed to the base of the crux pitch then simuled to the top in one block. Even better than i remembered. This thing is all time! Descending Green Glacier took longer than the route and is kinda shit (but very pretty).

Birthday link up with Belougery and Crater Bluff - 15 hours and 55 minutes car to car . I got quite lost on the first pitch because i’m an idiot and ended up 15m below the abseil anchor with no rope left. Harry came up and sorted us out like the weapon he is. Simuled the rest of the route in about an hour twenty. We topped out, asked some walkers where the descent was, and then wandered down and made ourselves sandwiches.

Wow what a day to remember for a mix of reasons. Started walking from pinchmans at 6am in the dark and collapsed at the car at 6.30pm also in the dark. Didn't have too much trouble with route finding the whole day. The climbing itself was average quality with some sections having some nice moves. Gear was good in most places other than crux sections. Quite a large amount of loose blocks on every pitch. As for the grade it felt much harder than 14 through the crux sections meaning we both felt very unprepared for the difficulty. BUT I am not experienced in multi pitch climbing and have never climbed in the warumbungles. All in all was an epic day up at big rock, what more could you want!!

Sit start seems impossible. Fun climb starting in the big pocket and just going straight up at about v2-3

Maybe soft but pretty fun

No free lunch.

Followed the original route description with no issues. Hell of a day out!

Managed to not make it an epic, as a party of 5. We climbed in 2 + 3, worked well, enough room on the belay stances in general. We were overtaken by a party of 2, no issue with a bit of considered rope use. Walked out from Balor hut at 6am, started climbing at 7.30 (in the dark hard to stay on the track up and left after crossing the creek (find the cairns at the crossing), we ended up 30 meters below Cornerstone and had to scramble up, despite a reccie the night before). Topped at 15.30pm had a break and lunch. The descent very doable (it was dry), first a short abseil and a little scramble down the green track. Another short abseil (one bolt with homemade plate). Then a long walk/scramble down more green goodness to last tree (two jerricans of water there, one empty, the other broken but filled with disgusting looking water). From there down climb/walk/all fours to double bolt and chain anchor above waterfall (would hate to that part in the dark when wet). Instructions clear enough to make it with care to the last abseil (double bolt/chain) great views at last of the sun, and down to ledge. Walked off and found the track down just in the last light, walk out to the saddle and balor hut easy to find and fast.

Exactly as expected according to the description. Good fun!

Good addition to the bungles . Approx 30m of new climbing. The finger crack is great. The adventure begins on the approach.

Great line with a tricky top out

Fantastic problem

Worked out the bottom half and the top half, I couldn't put them together though. I also realised when I was perched on top of the boulder, why the photos have a ladder...

Didn't really want to do this one without a spotter. Found the perfect opportunity and roped Aidan into spotting me ☺️

Prometheus is Bound no more - we freed that motherfucker!!!!!! Holy dooooley this was a coming of age climb. My most gnarly to date.

18 hour mission - left camp at 8am, back at 2am. Type 1,2,3 fun, all in a day - 30 degs and sun does that. Only 2L water each, big L (defs sun stroke vibes). 2 parties of 2 but we sorta shared gear so ended up being kinda a 4.

I swung leads with Sam (side note - STOKED I got to send this together with him, my first climbing friend in Sydney, and before he leaves for the other side of the world!) and we went well. Couple of linked pitches meant I had the gnarly traverse pitch 6 that is not for the faint of heart. Haz lead Ashton and went a high line, which the guide specifically warns against, so Sam and I decided on a lower line. I was going well, foot jugs and pro for 7-8m around the corner then my line turned a pro-less 18 with thin holds and fuck that - talk about the fear of god! Back climbed, went up and followed Haz's line which was dece. Next pitch was night fall and on run out choss blocks so I shat brix, but yelled the loudest I ever have on a climb (and thats saying something) when I got round the arete to solid rock and placed a bomber cam and nut. I don't know what that feeling was. Rest was smooth up, beautiful, serene gratitude for it all.

The descent was on brand for the day. couldn't find the rap to save our lives (lol eventually did), but made the rap longer and harder for ourselves and bashed back to camp. The relief, accomplishment, commeradarie, stoke, fatigue, confusion and elation was all evident. I don't even know but in love with the story.

I FUCKING LOVE THE BUNGLES.

CHEERS FELLAS THAT WAS ANYTHIN!!!!!

Super sick! was the first climb of Easter Bungles' 24, on the arvo of arrival. Ran up with Haz. Boys back together. Did an extra pitch on the approach pretty much as we were bashing/scrambling up and that was harder than solo'ing the first 3 pitches of the rib. rock broke onto my leg and was a bit scratched up, but the rest of the day was sensational. Beaut climbing and were side by side with the rest of the crew going up cornerstone rib - fun day out for all!

An interesting day where we started with 5 and ended the day with 3 (no one fell off! 2 members bailed at the top of pitch III). We started at around 8am and returned at 11pm for a 15 hour day.

Initially this was climbed as 2 parties of 2 and 3. Marlee and Erika were the first party. I was with Anna and Jessie. We did not climb the pitches as numbered here. I will number the 'official' pitches in Roman and our pitches in Arabic numerals.

Excellent climbing. Loved the exposure on pitch IV! I would argue the climb is sandbagged because the move on pitch IV is harder than 14. Perhaps a grade 15/16 move? The rock quality on much of the route, especially the final 2 pitches is somewhat dubious, but good quality placements can be found with a little investigating.

Anna led the first 2 pitches (combined pitch I/II/III).

Marlee then made an attempt at pitch IV, but was a little spooked by the moves off a directional nut she placed and retreated. I then had to catch up so the full party was on the belay ledge. I led pitch IV (as pitch 3) while Erika and Jessie elected to bail due to anticipated time constraints. This later proved wise.

Rope drag was substantial on pitch 3 and 4, but otherwise uneventful. Anna led pitch 5 (combined pitches VI/VII) and earned the glory of summitting first.

Descent down the Green Glacier was confusing. Our beta is as follows.

1. Descend the gully until you find the rap chains.

2. Abseil off the chains for around 35m until the terrain eases off.

3. Walk down the Green Glacier for a while, navigating some steep bits.

4. Once the greenery ends, you should keep walking until you end up on a ledge with rap chains on the left side (facing out). This is beyond the tree with chains and containers of radioactive water attached.

5. Rap down to another ledge, follow the track into the trees on the right (facing out), initially down then up briefly until you see a cairn on a rocky outcrop. There should be some chains there.

6. Rap down to the ground ~50m.

A brutal introduction to the Bungles. The approach and descent were arguably much harder than any of the climbing!

I completed this climb in 2 long pitches. Rope drag was noticeable but not the worst I've experienced.

Descent down the abseil gully in the dark was difficult. And finding the "easy descent" after the second abseil was very difficult, with numerous false starts. The descent after the second abseil is to the left (facing the wall) and you should re-emerge on the ledge that you start Endeavour Face/Vertigo on. We ended up leaving some tat on a tree to safely lower ourselves, which was then returned to us a couple of days later by our new friends at camp who smartly climbed and returned during the day!

had a great time on this with Khush, both got a few leads, something different to doing Cornerstone for a 3rd time!! some cool moves, good gear and topped at a similar time to the party on Cornerstone, had chats on the way up. down in the dark but at like 9pm ish.