New South Wales and ACT Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. New South Wales and ACT 40,854 routes in Region

1 4 13 18 2 20 3 14 17 9 5 6 16 7 10 15 11 12 8

1 Northern Rivers 2 Mid North Coast 3 Hunter Valley 4 Northern Tablelands 5 Central Coast 6 Sydney Metropolitan 7 Illawarra and Shoalhaven 8 South Coast 9 Central Tablelands 10 Southern Tablelands 11 Australian Capital Territory 12 Snowy Mountains 13 Northwest Slopes and plains 14 Central Western Slope and Plains 15 South West Slopes 16 Riverina 17 Lower Western 18 Upper Western 20 Lord Howe Island Group

Summary:

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Seasonality

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.806142, 150.150172

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

1.1. Northern Rivers 409 routes in Region

3 13 2 11 1 10 6 8 7 9 4 12 14 15 16 17

1 Urbenville 2 Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield 3 Tweed Valley 4 Old Lismore Quarry 6 Lillian Rock 7 Island Quarry 8 Byron Lowtide Boulders 9 Cape Byron Light house Cliff 10 Rainbow Rock 11 Zen 12 Boonoo Boonoo Falls 13 Surf Rock 14 Lighthouse beach 15 Joggly point cave 16 Turners beach 17 Woodford Island

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -28.993470, 152.673559

description

The Northern Rivers region of Northern NSW

1.1.1. Urbenville 152 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.507652, 152.531220

summary

An area providing a number of different crags, each with their own unique style, from steep thuggery to delicate friction slab.

description

Sleepy Urbenville, best known for a place to ride dirtbikes could be transforming into the Catalunya of Queensland. And even though it's not in Queensland, we've adopted it.

access issues

You no longer need to contact the landowner for The Crown, Spot X etc. This was confirmed after a discussion with the general store owners, that the land has changed hands.

Make sure you close the gate on your way up to the treatment plant. There are cattle roaming the field.

approach

Urbenville is in NSW, 150 km south of Brisbane via Beaudesert. Turn R to Rathdowney at the traffic lights in Beaudesert. Through Rathdowney and past spectacular mountain scenery. 'Campbell's Folly', the cliffline just past Palen Creek is particularly awesome-looking, although it resides on private property and is largely chossy. Drive on past Mt Lindsay and into NSW. At Woodenbong, turn L to Tabulam on McPherson Street. It is about 13 km to Urbenville.

where to stay

Option 1: There is a basic campground at the northern entrance to Urbenville set amongst huge pine trees. The camp hosts are Tony/Kelly Jo who volunteer to maintain the site run by Forestry. The cost is $10/night with warm showers. You can reach Tony on (02) 6634 1424 and pick up shower keys at the local store. It is recommended you bring your own water.

Option 2: May 2023 - Toolum Falls Campground is Closed If you plan to climb at Battery Hill or Vesuvius, there is a campsite south of Urbenville, where it's an easy walk to The Pines. It's called Tooloom Falls Camp Grounds (see Google Maps or directions under Battery Hill section).

Option 3: It's possible to get a room in the Urbenville pub for about $30 a night.

1.1.2. Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: -28.402196, 153.263911

description

Mount Warning is a mountain in the Tweed Range in the Northern Rivers Region of NSW. It is very close to the border between NSW and Queensland. It stands at 1159 metres above sea level.

access issues

It is located in Wollumbin National Park.

approach

Mount Warning is accessible by the Summit Track hiking trail, which leads up the mountain to the summit.

1.1.3. Tweed Valley 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -28.286091, 153.329274

1.1.4. Old Lismore Quarry 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -28.793621, 153.262965

1.1.5. Angel Way 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

summary

climbing is banned in these areas... keep climbing gear in your pack.

description

Rock is crumbly

access issues

access difficult.

1.1.6. Lillian Rock 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -28.530564, 153.150706

description

Lillian Rock is a 317 metre high mountain in the Northern Rivers region of Northeast New South Wales.

approach

Lillian Rock is accessible by car via Lillian Rock Road.

1.1.7. Island Quarry 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -28.638788, 153.573690

summary

This crag is located on private land. Climbing here is illegal now as it is a community arts and eco centre.

access issues

Climbing is banned here.

where to stay

Byron Bay

1.1.8. Byron Lowtide Boulders 16 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -28.634132, 153.637871

summary

Small bouldering area on the point just below the walkway. Main boulder catches spray at high tide. Low tide is best, somewhat obviously.

description

Access either by parking at the lighthouse and walking down, or by parking at Wategos beach and walking along the rocks

approach

Access either by parking at the lighthouse and walking down, or by parking at Wategos beach and walking along the rocks.

1.1.9. Cape Byron Light house Cliff 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -28.642761, 153.636379

summary

Cape Byron Lighthouse Cliffs. Sea level cliffs below the lighthouse.

description

First 3 Climbs are based around the first solid grey gully with a 25m head wall at the back. Solid rock and gear low down , but gets more unstable higher up. 70m further on is " The Day sap ". A solid grey 15m face with good natural features .

access issues

2 to 3 hours either side of high tide

approach

Park at Tallow beach carpark, walk north along the beach. And scramble around to the cliffs

where to stay

Byron

ethic

Trad. Warning the cliff is shale. some holds are just sitting on the face. Care is needed placing gear. Belayers should never stand directly below climbers. Helmets are essential.

history

Explored and opened by Eric Milton 2023

1.1.10. Rainbow Rock 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.512089, 153.324141

summary

Private Property

description

Helmet and brush needed at this crag. Holds appear and disappear often. Needs lots of cleaning. Lots of ticks, march flies, mosquitoes and leeches.

access issues

Across farmers land - must ask permission - private property.

approach

Call for details and directions... walk up hill. Very steep at the end. Hard to find.

ethic

Sensitive area. Private Property. Permission for climbing or bolting required.

history

Called Rainbow Rock. First climbs established in 2000 by the owner of Wave Rock, Byron Bay (John Reilly)

1.1.11. Zen 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -28.451898, 152.668754

1.1.12. Boonoo Boonoo Falls 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -28.800954, 152.163074

description

Pronounced Bunna Boonoo. Boonoo Boonoo Falls is a spectacular waterfall located in Boonoo Boonoo National Park near Tenterfield in the Northern Rivers Region of Northern NSW.

© (gremlin)

access issues

Located in Boonoo Boonoo National Park.

© (gremlin)

where to stay

Camping is available at Cypress-Pine Campground in Boonoo Boonoo National Park.

© (gremlin)

1.1.13. Surf Rock 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top roping, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -28.336125, 153.577362

summary

sea cliff, windy. Some loose rock, helmet is a good idea, Some very sharp rock!!! cut though my 11mm rope when top roping an overhang. Use rope protectors over all edges. Most rock is pretty average.

description

Mostly Trad climbing.Sea cliff climbing, beautiful location. good surf. A place to climb when on the north coast of NSW... Better than nothing... If you dont like the climbs... go Surfing...

approach

Cabarita Beach - Headland... NSW. follow trail out to headland, when on wooden boardwalk climb over fence and head to right side of headland. there are 2 decent gullys, first climbs are in first gully.

where to stay

Cabarita has lots of accomadation.

ethic

Using carrots to bolt, they are least noticeable. Headland is public location. Minimal impact to environment is required here.

history

Found a bolted climb with a chain anchor... Most climbs are probably easier than graded. Grading is my best guess... feel free to adjust grades...

1.1.14. Lighthouse beach 93 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -28.867943, 153.592400

summary

Sun surf sand and bouldering.

description

Small outcrop on the headland with around 80 problems on volcanic basalt rock that is on the most part quite compact. Right on the beach with some sandy landings near the surf club end (southern). The remainder is rocky landings, but a good spot and a crash pad will definitely help. Nice holiday bouldering good fun easy moves that in places get a touch high off the ground. Salt spray can sometimes make walking around base very slippery and is best avoided around times of large swells! Sand levels change often by as much as a metre.

approach

North end of lighthouse beach Ballina. Park at the beach or ontop of crag at lookout. Climb, surf and swim at the beach. Grab a coffee/breakfast at the club house.

history

Seems like the kind of spot that would of attracted climbers at some point. Who knows the history? Just putting up whats been done by a few people over the past few years.

1.1.15. Joggly point cave 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -29.119628, 153.450609

description

A really cool cave with consistently hard moves throughout the route. So far there's only one route but potential for more. It's about 8 metres of cave climbing so either requires a lot of mats or a friend to help move some.

Holds might be prone to breaking especially at the end of the route although it's not a noticeable problem. The route can also be a little wet with water seeping into the cave so maybe bring a towel just in case.

approach

Go to Anson Ave and follow the track to Joggly Point. The cave is on the right of Joggly point by the sea.

Low tide is ideal but as long as it's not high tide you can probably get away with it.

1.1.16. Turners beach 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -29.431723, 153.365101

description

Short wall next to the beach. Some problems can be done only by mid to low tide.

approach

Go to the end of harbour street. The boulder is on your left right next to the ocean

1.1.17. Woodford Island 23 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -29.484392, 153.176082

summary

Small area near M1 Motorway and not far from Yamba.

description

Short average sandstone with ocean views and shade in the afternoons, often gets a sea breeze. Mozzies can be bad here!

approach

From M1 highway turn off to Maclean. Cross the Bridge near showground and head towards Golf course. Drive past Golf club and turn left up Repeater Station rd, follow this until it turns from tar to dirt, park here (2WD) where mountain bike trails start and follow fire trail left from parking area down hill to power lines. More details on walk ins can be found by opening areas.

ethic

Please only leave sweat and chalk behind.

history

A small top rope area was developed here in the late 90's called (Little Lindfield) to teach some kids climbing, it has carrots along the top. Later some short sport routes where also added in various areas.

1.1.18. Life Bouy Strip 0 routes in Area

summary

Tip of cape byron just up from low tide boulders

1.2. Mid North Coast 1,089 routes in Region

1 2 3 4 6 5 7 13 8 11 10 9 12

1 Coffs Harbour 2 Valla beach headland 3 Middle Head 4 Grassy Head 5 Hat Head 6 South West Rocks 7 Crescent Head 8 Crowdy Bay 9 Boomerang 10 South Seven Mile Beach 11 Burgess beach 12 Seal Rocks 13 Centre Of Gravity Indoor Adventure Centre

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -31.150590, 152.568306

1.2.1. Coffs Harbour 703 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -30.177901, 152.979581

summary

The Glenreagh area (about 45 minutes NW of Coffs Harbour) offers an extensive sandstone escarpment with more than ten established crags and a variety of climbs from cracks to steep sport routes.

description

Although the area is described as 'Coffs Harbour', the majority of the climbing is located near the town of Glenreagh, 45 mins North West of Coffs.

The Glenreagh area offers an extensive sandstone escarpment with more than ten established crags. A summary of the crags is provided in the 'Glenreagh' subsection.

The Coffs Harbour area also includes a climbing area in the Nymboida Gorge, a remote, adventurous, multipitch, granite climbing area that has a challenging walk-in approach or can be accessed by paddling a renowned whitewater river. All of the routes are considered fairly serious undertakings requiring a full rack of traditional gear. The routes are up to 180m in length.

Boambee Headland is near Sawtell. A small cliff offers some bouldering traverses.

Coffs Harbour makes a great destination for combining climbing with a coastal holiday and it is possible to climb in the area year-round (by chasing shaded cliffs). The best temperatures are from about March to October.

approach

Half way between Sydney and Brisbane. Most of the crags are only about half an hour west of the Pacific Highway.

where to stay

The nearest bush camping is at the parking lot for Wonderland. Otherwise, the towns of Coffs Harbour, Woolgoolga or any of the other coastal villages offer everything from caravan parks and backpackers hostels to five star resorts. The ability to combine a combine climbing with a beach holiday is hard to beat.

ethic

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

1.2.2. Valla beach headland 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.593852, 153.013884

description

A tiny little cave of decent quality rock amid a cliff of choss. Would be a great little distraction on a road trip just a few minutes of the pacific highway. Only a couple routes but scope for lots of elimination problems.

approach

From the pacific highway drive down Valla beach road all the way to the beach, park at the lookout car park, walk left (north) along the beach for ~100m.

history

??? TBA

1.2.3. Middle Head 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.778824, 152.996908

summary

Ideallic location with bullet hard black rock overlooking beautiful sandy white beach.

description

Multiple areas including the caves, Carpe Diem and more. The cave area is only accessible at low-tide, we were gonna name it the lowtai wall.

access issues

This is a nudist beach area quite popular with mature males, please respect their space. The cave sector is accessible only at low tide.

approach

About 50m south of Middle Head Trail on Grassy head Trail, park and head to the beach, and walk southwards towards the rock outcrops. Carpe Diem wall is best accessed at the carpark south of the headland.

history

May have been an old climbing area? We don't know, but came across it last year after scouring the area hungry for rock. Rock outcrops

1.2.4. Grassy Head 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.794094, 153.002025

summary

A rocky headland with a great view, interesting features and scope for plenty of climbing and bouldering. Rock quality varies from solid bands to chossy, friable, actively eroding overhangs.

description

Probably best climbed in good weather with low wave action. While the rocky platform provides a good flat landing many of the routes here are high-ball climbs and extreme care should be taken when bouldering or descending. Pads and/or ropes are advised.

access issues

Park at the visitors parking in Grassy Head Holiday Park and walk to headland via trail or beach.

approach

There's a walking track over the grassy headland or you can rock hop from the southern end of the beach.

ethic

This area is frequented by locals, fishermen and tourists alike. While much of the rock here is solid there is also a fair amount of actively eroding rock, particularly the overhangs at the righthand end of Rock Band Wall. Grassy Head may be a culturally sensitive area. Please be respectful when climbing here and avoid unnecessarily damaging rock. http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/nswcultureheritage/grassyheads.htm

history

Unknown.

1.2.5. Hat Head 21 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering and Top roping

Lat / Long: -30.925710, 153.084324

summary

Hat Head NP is a stunning place between Crescent Head and South West Rocks. Also a great place for a swim, surf or dive.

description

The rock varies from adamellite ( a quartz monozoite) through to black sedimentary siltstones and well cemented conglomerate through the park

access issues

Low tide is preferable for most areas

where to stay

Camping in the National park is possible near most areas

ethic

No or very minimal fixed protection. A few anchor points exist at Green Island and Korogoro

1.2.6. South West Rocks 242 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.973991, 153.060911

summary

Quality granite bouldering in a stunning setting by the ocean with hundreds of problems.

description

South West Rocks is a small tourist town with a historic gaol on the headland at nearby Arakoon (Trial Bay). Surfing, boating, fishing, scuba diving and spear fishing are some of the activities that are popular in the region. Some great hiking can also be found along the headlands. The best time to visit for climbing is winter when it's not so hot and busy, plus this brings income to the town in the off season.

access issues

The area is part of the Arakoon National Park and Hat Head National Park ( south of Little Bay) and should be treated as such - respect the rules of the park.

approach

South West Rocks is roughly halfway between Sydney and Brisbane just off the Pacific Hwy. From South West Rocks follow signs to Arakoon and Trial Bay Goal.

where to stay

South West Rocks is mostly a retirement and tourist town. There are a large number of holiday rentals on offer and a few campgrounds at SWR and Arakoon. Can be very busy in peak holiday times!

ethic

Minimal chalk usage and no tick marks. Remember you are sharing park with other users. Be respectful. Clean up after yourself and other!

history

Climbing here started in August 1995 when a few trad lines were done by Anthony Alexander. This was shortly followed by Bouldering which is now the more dominate type of climbing done here.

1.2.7. Crescent Head 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -31.246644, 152.969796

summary

Roughly an hour from Port Macquarie, the Crescent Head area contains beaches with both sedimentary cliffs, boulder fields and individual boulders. Also great for swimming & surfing.

description

Black sedimentary rock. Rocks are very sharp in places so be careful while climbing. Most holds are not particularly sharp but there can be other sharp edges nearby.

There are definitely more routes in the area, just haven't had time to spend some time climbing them.

access issues

Low tide is best for climbing on the beaches. Much of the area is contained within a National Park.

approach

Take the turnoff for Kempsey and follow the signs to Crescent Head. Many of the beaches are along Point Plomer Road.

where to stay

There are national park campgrounds along the road, or other private campgrounds such as Waves Campground. All routes are within a 5 - 30 minute drive along the road.

ethic

Avoid fixed protection where possible. Most of the crags should be a safe bouldering height, and if not top rope anchors are not uncommon.

1.2.8. Crowdy Bay 26 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -31.724621, 152.798577

summary

Seaside climbing in a rather scenic national park.

description

Seaside climbing in a rather scenic national park. While only easy access areas have currently been climbed, there is potential on the many headlands south of Crowdy Bay campground.

access issues

The area is in Crowdy Bay National Park so the usual sensitivities apply. Keep a low profile, and clean up after yourselves.

approach

Use google maps with Crowdy Bay Campground, NSW as your destination. The following link contains directions from Port Macquarie (the closest major town) to Crowdy Bay:

https://www.google.com.au/maps/dir/-31.7194386,152.7931612/Port+Macquarie,+New+South+Wales+2444/@-31.5759088,152.6796784,11z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m9!4m8!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x6b9dff5c34ecc9c1:0x50609b490442e40!2m2!1d152.9!2d-31.433333!3e0

where to stay

Crowdy Bay Campground is the most convenient location. There are also plenty of motels and hotels at the nearby towns of Laurieton, West Haven, and Lakewood.

1.2.9. Boomerang 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -32.335943, 152.549920

summary

Easy slabbing or extreme adventure.

description

Boomerang beach has 2 climbing areas to the North of the beach. Each of the areas varies in style and rock type. There is plenty to keep you interested here if you are up here on holiday and want a break from the beach.

approach

Park in the car park on the Northern end of Boomerang Beach, from here look to your left and you will see a rocky headland with a nice slab of black rock. You can see one of the areas from here and the others are in the zawn on the other side of this headland.

history

The original Boomerang Beach slab routes must have been done some time around 1980.

1.2.10. South Seven Mile Beach 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -32.313784, 152.525726

summary

Basalt bouldering by the beachside.

description

At the south end of the massive Seven Mile Beach in Booti Booti National Park, ocean erosion of the basalt headland has created some stunningly featured rock formations, many of which are climbable.

Be aware some of the rock has been eroded into thin strips which are friable - stick to the hard black / grey rock and avoid very thin features.

There are surely more climbs here waiting for first ascents!

approach

From the pubic parking at the The Ruins Picnic & Campground, take the path on to the beach and head towards the south end peninsula. Continue past the walking track directly onto the rocks off the sand. Some of the rocks may become submerged during high tide.

1.2.11. Burgess beach 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -32.199989, 152.542500

summary

Boulder and swim!

description

Small beach near Forster framed with rocky outcrops. Some rock is a bit chossy but it tends to be the lighter orange stuff. Keep to the sometimes sharp, dark rock and you will be fine. The Best rock is in the middle and southern end of the beach. Feel free to edit the location of these boulders as i am relying on my memory of the area. http://www.greatlakes.org.au/outdoors/beaches/burgess-beach

approach

Off the lakes way, easiest way is to turn into Kularoo dr and follow that right through to Lakeview cres.. turn left and then the first right is burgess road. As you come down the hill the car park is on your left.

1.2.12. Seal Rocks 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -32.432837, 152.527774

summary

Dramatic colliding basalt formations by the sea, begging to be scrambled and climbed. There are undoubtedly a number of great lines waiting to to be uncovered. Come at low tide.

access issues

Toilets can be found at the car park at the east end of Number One Beach.

approach

Park at the east end of Number One Beach. Stroll onto the sand and head east - soon you'll be scrambling.

history

Seal Rocks is Worimi country. No doubt some adventurous teenagers completed the traverse and who knows what other fantastic adventures long before records were kept.

1.2.13. Centre Of Gravity Indoor Adventure Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

http://www.centreofgravity.com.au/

52 Jindalee Rd, Port Macquarie, New South Wales 2444

1.3. Hunter Valley 2,186 routes in Region

6 5 3 2 4 1

1 Watagans 2 Port Stephens 3 Bulahdelah 4 Newcastle 5 Upper Hunter 6 Gloucester

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.189648, 151.458538

description

Whether it's bouldering, sport, trad or DWS climbing the Hunter Region has something for everyone. The region covers the Watagans to the west, Central Coast to the south, Bulahdelah to the north and Port Stephens to the East. The Watagans is made up of numerous sandstone cliffs in a National park. Port Stephens has some fantastic sea cliff climbing on quality granite like rock. Bulahdelah is made up of an alum/rhyolite rock. This rock is very stong and lends itself to some interesting featured climbing, inclucing the famous cave. The Central Coast has fine, compacted sandstone with some great sport climbing caves and bouldering areas. Also has some great trad spots along the Hawksbury. For more information see the Hunter Valley Rockclimbing guidebook.

1.3.1. Watagans 586 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.987905, 151.414682

description

The Watagans are comprised of a number sandstone cliffs. West of the M1 (Newcastle to Sydney) Freeway, the area is mainly National Park though some sections are in State Forests or on private property. The rock is softer and has more conglomerate bands than Sydney or Blue Mountains sandstones, but if you stick to the worn classic you should enjoy.

Monkey Face is the main area. It is a good place for beginners and is easy to set top ropes. It is often used by the Scouts and the Newcastle University Mountaineering Club.

history

Early climbing dates from the late 1950s and early 1960s at the Dora Pinnacles. Most climbing up to the early 1980s was club based, the most prominent being the Newcastle and Hunter Areas Scout Association, Newcastle University Mountaineering Club (NUMC), Avondale Bushwalking and Rockclimbing Club (ABARC) and the Newcastle Bushwalking Club (NBC).

1.3.2. Port Stephens 768 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.744061, 152.113287

description

Port Stephens climbing is on fine seaside granite. Most areas require trad gear but there are a few smaller sport crags thrown in. It is a great place to spend a summers day go for a climb and cool off with a swim. Port Stephens also offers a number of DWS crags.

1.3.3. Bulahdelah 429 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.411859, 152.223264

summary

A sign banning rock climbing in the state forest (pretty much everything south of the lookout ) has appeared in late December 2014. And the north area is on private property.

description

Bring loads of finger tape. The rock here is as hard as nails... and as sharp as them too. Loads of climbing to be had in all different styles. Almost every pinnacle, buttress and wall has been bolted and there are loads of quality climbs to test yourself on.

The rock can feel quite soapy and can be a bit difficult to read causing climbers to look like they are "washing windows" looking for holds.

There are new routes going up all the time and it is important to respect the bolters and keep of all tatted routes.

Rock fall is common outside of the caves, helmets recommended

access issues

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

approach

Starting at the golf course head up to the fire trail and briefly walk West. At approx 32°23'54.1"S 152°13'19.1"E there is a well worn track to the right which takes you to the Northern edge of the track. From there you can walk along the base of the cliff to all the climbs.

where to stay

Buladelah has several motels, cheap but basic rooms at the hotel, and a camping ground. Camping also possible in nearby Myall Lakes national park.

ethic

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

history

First recorded climbs date from 1980, therehas had a steady stream of routes added ever since, most notably by John Wilde and Vanessa Wills.

1.3.4. Newcastle 355 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.976033, 151.717232

description

Newcastle is a harbour city with a population of approximately 310,000 people. It is located 162 kilometres North East of Sydney and is on the NSW Central Coast.

approach

Newcastle is easily accessible by car via major highways.

where to stay

There are many accommodation options in Newcastle, ranging from camping to luxury hotels.

1.3.5. Upper Hunter 32 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: -32.238508, 151.186137

1.3.6. Gloucester 16 routes in Region

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -32.020136, 151.924570

description

Gloucester is a town in dairy and beef cattle country on the New South Wales Mid North Coast. Gloucester has a population of approximately 2300 people.

approach

Gloucester is easily accessible by car via either Thunderbolts Way or Bucketts Way.

1.4. Northern Tablelands 4,792 routes in Region

2 17 13 15 29 26 1 24 9 8 11 10 14 18 7 16 5 23 6 19 4 27 12 3 22 20 21

1 Stonehenge 2 Tank Traps 3 Dangars Gorge 4 Gara Gorge 5 Bakers Creek 6 Four Mile Creek Falls 7 Wollomombi Falls 8 Cathedral Rock National Park 9 Ebor Gorge 10 Mt Yarrowyck 11 Saddleback Mountain 12 Wallaby Rocks 13 Bluff Rock 14 Beulah 15 Gibraltar Rock 16 Uncarved Block R&D wall 17 Kwiamble National Park 18 UNEOAC Climbing Wall 19 Oaky Creek Falls 20 Green Valley 21 Bendemeer 22 Watsons Creek 23 Warrabah national park 24 Lake Copeton 26 Glen Innes and surrounds 27 Wooldridge Fossicking Reserve 29 Fernside (near Mount Mitchell)

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -29.863498, 151.715021

summary

World class granite bouldering, epic gorges, decades of trad history and plenty of sport to go round

1.4.1. Stonehenge 179 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -29.840939, 151.742446

summary

Park right next to the problem you're working

description

Stonehenge is a great bouldering spot with 170+ routes on some great shaped rocks. The rock is typical New England granite with lots of crimps, flakes and great friction. And where else can you park right next to the problem you're working?

The area is a recreation area complete with picnic area, barbecues, footy pitch, washrooms, water and a rifle range.

approach

Stonehenge is about an hours drive north of Armidale and about 5 minutes south of Glen Innes. It is 700 hundred meters north of 'Balancing Rock' which is sign posted.

history

Even though stonehenge has seen active bouldering for some time a lot of history isn't recorded so any feedback on history, routes, names and grades would be greatly appreciated!

1.4.2. Tank Traps 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -28.948496, 152.092350

1.4.3. Dangars Gorge 54 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Deep water soloing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: -30.681797, 151.743183

description

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Dunghutti.

Dunghutti land is thought to have extended over the entire Macleay River valley including the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park (OWRNP). The Dunghutti were comprised of six to eight dialect groups, two of which, the Nulla-Nulla and the Conderang. Throughout OWRNP a range of Aboriginal sites with traditional and contemporary value exist, such as individual places of significance, archaeological sites, mythological sites, ceremonial sites and contact sites. Archaeological excavations have established that Aboriginal people occupied the New England Tablelands for at least 4,200 years.

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

1.4.4. Gara Gorge 1,107 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -30.622020, 151.822325

description

All the cliffs on the Gara gorge 15 minutes from Armidale.

1.4.5. Bakers Creek 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.548840, 151.891320

summary

A strange mix of old-school trad routes on the walls around the falls and modern bouldering in the creek bed. Fine grained granite, large boulders

description

Deep gorge not far from Armidale, off Waterfall Way. Old neglected trad climbs with bouldering at their base. Perhaps 20 boulder problems established so far, with scope for more, and potential for bolted and naturally protected climbs as well. Access is steep and difficult, straight off the lookout.

access issues

From Armidale head east on the waterfall way for 20kms, then right at the sign post, onto dirt for a couple kms.

approach

From the lookout, jump the fence on the right and follow a faint track down to the right. Caution must be taken walking in as the decent is very steep. As you approach there is a promising looking boulder that you soon realize is the size of a house. Most established boulder problems are downstream of this (problem 'High times and down beats' is upstream of the giant block and 'One too many' sits against it), but future problems exist right through the gorge from the waterfall downstream.

history

Bob Harden and Doug McLean formed a climbing group called the Delta Club, a breakaway group from the University Of New England Mountaineering Club (UNEMC). Starts of climbs were marked with a Delta instead of the usual square. Some of these markings were still visible at Bakers Creek in the early seventies but have since been worn away. Two climbs were put up in 1964 by Harden and McLean. They are Bakercide (6) and Nitrocide(8).1967 produced only two new ones, Hardicide (14) by Thomas and the tricky Speleocide (12) by B.Douglas. Mills pioneered two new ones in 1969, the best being Klettercide (12). 1971 produced five, the best being Pissed Psychedelic Peanut (15) by A.Suters and Cornelius Corners (15) by Rob Dixon. In 1980, Austin Legler with Greg (Dulux) Pritchard did Basilisk (16). 1981 saw Al Stephens climb White Man’s Burden (20) with Clark and in 1985, Stephens made another brief visit to establish Cheesy Gland (20), a variant finish to Cornelius Corners. In 1986 Stephens with Larry Dixon eliminated all aid on ADP, now 21.

This history was documented in 'Waterfalls-A Rock climbers guide to the waterfalls of New England' by Al Stephens (1996).

After years of neglect, the area received a second wind after Artie Schultz heard from Rick Curtis that a few trad lines had been done there but no record of them existed (oh yes they did and now they are in this guide...). The new generation was after quality bouldering and it seems they found some.

1.4.6. Four Mile Creek Falls 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.570055, 151.938096

approach

Take the Grafton / Dorrigo road for 25km and turn right to Hillgrove. Near the old post Office pick up the Long Point Rd. and follow this for 5.9km until you cross a concrete bridge over Four Mile Creek, then turn right over a grid into private property. (Permission MUST be obtained from the property owners. Please don’t arrive before 9:00am. Farmers sometimes sleep-in.) Follow the track for about 1km from the homestead until just over the creek and park before the gate. Follow the creek down for a kilometre to the gorge. To enter the gorge walk one km. down the left side to a gully or abseil in down the right-hand side.

The climbs are described from left of the waterfall, around to right of the waterfall. The first climb described here is Skylite.

1.4.7. Wollomombi Falls 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -30.533920, 152.040002

summary

One of the most spectacular gorge systems in Australia. Long, serious, chossy adventure climbing in a remote setting.

description

Wollomombi falls was once believed to be the tallest waterfall in Australia. However, geographical revisions place them at second or third tallest, depending on the source. Regardless, the gorge is very spectacular with many sheer faces. Unfortunately, the quality of the metamorphosed mudstone deteriorates very quickly as you move away from the stream.

Activities around the gorge including hiking trails or canyoning trips down Wollomombi or Chandler Falls and continuing downstream thorugh a steep sieded canyon known as the 'Inaccessible Gulf'. The valley widens about 4km downstream of the falls. The upper reaches of the gorge should be avoided when water levels are high.

approach

The falls are near the tiny village of Wollomombi, about 40km. east of Armidale off the Grafton/Dorrigo Road (Waterfall Way). They are well signposted. Park at the car park/picnic area. Getting into the gorge is not easy. You can either abseil down the Wollomombi Falls Rap Route or scramble down into the gorge. The recommended scrambling route into the gorge requires no abseils but it is loose and dangerous. From the car park walk 100m towards the falls where there is a long grassy platform slightly below the rim of the gorge. At the far-left end of the platform is a gully and rib. Stick to the very loose rib. Stay on the rib, making a few detours around minor obstacles, until you pass a huge landslip on your left and finally reach a small saddle. The spur bluffs out beyond the next high point beyond the saddle. From the saddle, move down right, until you arrive at a steep, slippery watercourse. A scrubby steep spur to the right of the watercourse avoids the steep section in the gully. Once below this section continue on down the watercourse until you arrive at another steep section close to the gorge floor. From here move left into bushes and scree, down to the gorge floor. If you get lost you will have to abseil. Walk up the left-hand river past the junction to the base of the falls. If you are doing the Ridge, go straight up between the two rivers from the junction.

where to stay

There is a National Park campground at the falls.

ethic

Old School.

history

1960's

Rock climbing in the Armidale district is believed to have commenced around 1960 at Dangars Falls. Two climbers, John (Action) Lindsay and Hugh Spencer, at that time, climbed the waterfall face right of the water-course. This is of course the climb known today as Action. At the same time it is believed that they also climbed the orange pinnacle right of Action.

Looking for other great challenges, in 1961 Lindsay and party attempted and completed the first ascent of the Wollomombi-Chandler Ridge. Obviously other members of the Mountaineering Club thought they were a little crazy, as none of these climbs were recorded. No doubt Lindsay and others attempted/completed other climbs but unfortunately no records were kept.

The first recorded climbs were completed in 1964.

Bob Harden and Doug McLean formed a climbing group called the Delta Club, a breakaway group from the University Of New England Mountaineering Club (UNEMC). Starts of climbs were marked with a Delta instead of the usual square. Some of these markings were still visible at Bakers Creek in the early seventies but have since been worn away. Two climbs were put up in 1964 by Harden and McLean. They are Bakercide (6) and Nitrocide(8), both at Bakers Creek. 1965 saw the Delta club leap into action. John Davis and Mike Thomas joined Harden and McLean.

Apart from climbing at Bakers Creek, the group make excursions to Mihi Falls and Dangars Falls. Five new climbs were put up at Bakers Creek. The best being Davicide(13) by Davis, Punjacide(13) by I.Logan and the two aid climbs, ADP(M1) and ryocide(M1), both by Harden. Three climbs were completed at Mihi- the best being the classic Pull Up(15) by Davis. During the same year they made their first visit onto the big, scary wall of Dangars Falls. Harden put up the very run-out Toecap(13), while Davis climbed Goldfinger(16), a climb that hasn’t, at the time of writing this guide, had a second ascent !

In 1966 McLean with Dave Mills repeated Lindsay’s route, giving it the name Action (14), while the best route at Bakers Creek was Normacide (11) by Mills.

1967 produced only two new ones at Bakers Creek. Hardicide (14) by Thomas and the tricky Speleocide (12) by B.Douglas.

The only new route in 1968 was at Dangars, Nightcap (12) by Thomas.

Mills pioneered two new ones at Bakers Creek in 1969. The best being Klettercide (12). Noel Beynon with J.Street had a close look at the rock around Wollomombi Falls. They found and climbed Dono Dedit (8) During this year the Wollomombi-Chandler Ridge became a popular trip. Elaine Cantrill (Elaine’s Gorge-a canyon- is named after her) arrived on the scene, and swinging leads with R.Jones, put up the long Magnificent Obsession (9) on Oaky Falls. The same pair did the first route at Four Mile Creek Falls, Skylite (6).

1970's

The only new route in 1970 was Drednought (14) at Dangars Falls by N.Hughes and Beynon. This takes the corner right of Action and left of the Orange Pillar. Today it is quite loose and probably was then.

1971 produced eight climbs. Five at Bakers Creek- the best being Pissed Psychedelic Peanut (15) by A.Suters and Cornelius Corners (15) by Rob Dixon. Hughes and Beynon found the chossiest route in New England at Wollomombi Falls. It goes up a slabby wall onto the Wollomombi-Chandler Ridge, opposite the falls. It is appropriately titled Violet Crumble Bar (13). J.Street with Dick Gallimore did We Are Not Amused(12), the chimney next to the falls at Four Mile Creek Falls, while R.Jones with Gallimore did Nuttinge (14) at the same crag.

1974 saw Phil Prior arrive, and with Jill Kelman put up a direct start to Nightcap, which they named Copperhead (12). Rob Dixon dragged Bob Killip and Brian Birchall to Mihi to do Deception(14). Prior, at Bakers Creek, disappeared into the mank just downstream of Bakers Creek Falls, to produce Frigid Air (6).

In 1975, Al Stephens with Dixon added the first four pitches to We Are Not Amused (12) at Four Mile Creek Falls. At the same location Killip with Rob Stazewski completed The Killip-Stazewski Route On The East Face Of Four Mile (20). At Mihi Dixon, with Stephens, did Bird On A Wire (16). In 1978, a granite cliff,Flaky Buttress, downstream from Dangars, was discovered by Bob Killip. The result was Plain Sailing (14).

1980's

Dangars received two new ones in 1980. Stephens with Geoff Francis did the multi-pitch Slippery When Wet (13) during a drought, while on the opposite wall Birchall with Francis did Caprice (17). At Bakers Creek Austin Legler with Greg (Dulux) Pritchard did Basilisk (16). Back at Flaky Buttress (Dangars) Jack Lattanzio, with Ed Sharp, warmed up on Fairy Choss (8), and later that year returned with Mark Colyvan to complete Mystery Achievement (20).

1981 saw Dangars Falls yield Total Control (20) by Bayne and Colyvan, as well as Foolscap (18) by Birchall. Downstream, past Flaky Buttress Stephens and Rob Clark found The Richard Cliff and put up three great climbs, the best being Eavesdropper (19) by Stephens and Airs and Graces (19) by Clark. Stephens with Sharp had a Calculated Thrill (16) at Mihi after he did White Man’s Burden (20) with Clark at Bakers Creek. Near The Richard Cliff Pritchard found The Pritchard Cliff and soloed the only route to date, Pariah (5).

In 1982 Paul Bayne found another crag, Dynomight Buttress, near (before ?) Flaky Buttress. No one has been able to locate it since. At Flaky Buttress Stephens put up the great Bombora (20 M1). Bayne managed to eliminated most of the aid but left the grade the same. On Richard Cliff, the next crag down the gorge, Bayne with Stephens, did the powerful Lackluster Backbuster (23).

In 1985, Stephens made a brief visit to Bakers Ck. to establish Cheesy Gland (20), a variant finish to Cornelius Corners.

At Bakers Ck. in 1986 Stephens with Larry Dixon eliminated all aid on ADP, now 21.

1990's

No new routes were put up on or around any of the falls from 1986 until the drought of 1993 when Wollomombi Falls were completely dry! Ben Christian and Stephens did After the Rain (18). The drought continued in 1994 and once again Wollomombi Falls dried up. This time Gordon Low and Stephens with Tim Hill completed a line parallel to After the Rain, called God’s Of Thunder (18).

Most of this guide and the history was documented in 'Waterfalls-A Rock climbers guide to the waterfalls of New England' by Al Stephens (1996)

1.4.8. Cathedral Rock National Park 208 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.439276, 152.231590

1.4.9. Ebor Gorge 209 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.402597, 152.338711

summary

Lots of crack and aretes

description

Ebor Falls is part of Guy Fawkes River National Park. All the cliffs are in the National park as is the access to these areas and should thus be treated accordingly. Enough said!

Ebor is a township 77km east of Armidale on the Dorrigo road. The climbing area is just before the town on the Armidale side of the Guy Fawkes river on the cliffs around the falls.

The cliffs consist of short vertical basalt columns (10m - 20m) and virtually all the climbs are sustained cracks of varying size between the columns. The original climbing areas are called ‘Breakaways’ and are numbered 1 to 6 with the first being closest to the falls and the sixth being furthest from the falls.

The more recently developed cliffs have broken with tradition and been given more exotic names so that the very short ‘Dead Heroes Buttress’ is between the 4th and 5th Breakaways, ‘Solid Gold Buttress’ is directly below the left-hand end of the 4th Breakaway and ‘Pub Buttress’ and ‘Bondage Buttress’ are on the other side of the gorge.

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access issues

National Park

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approach

Take the Dorrigo road out of Armidale until just before the township of Ebor there is a sign posted road to Ebor falls on your left. Take this road past the graveyard to the first car park (on your right); park here for access to the 1st and 2nd Breakaways, and drive further on to the main car park and picnic area for access to the 3rd - 6th Breakaways, ‘Dead Heroes Buttress’ and ‘Solid Gold Buttress’. To access ‘Pub Buttress’ and ‘Bondage Buttress’ walk across the top of the First Falls and then proceed to the gorge rim on that side of the river.

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where to stay

Camping at the Ebor Falls rest area is banned but you can camp nearby at the Native Dog camping ground. To get there drive west towards Guyra for 12kms. It is part of Cathedral Rock National Park and camp fees apply. It is only an hour’s drive from Armidale so you can easily stay there. There are also an amazing variety of hotels, bed n’ breakfasts, pubs and caravan parks in Armidale.

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ethic

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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history

Ebor holds a rather special place in the history of New England climbing. Due to its pleasant nature, easy access and short well protected climbs it has been an ideal training area where many Armidale climbers have ‘pushed their grades and tested themselves on such classics as ‘Rooflet’ 19, ‘Backdoor Man’ 19, ‘Sleight of Hand’ 19, and ‘Luce’ 21, and as little as about 6 years ago an ascent of any of these test pieces signified your ‘arrival’ into the upper echelon of New England climbers. On the other hand Ebor has broken a lot of hearts. Almost everyone who has climbed there has had at least one of those days when the climbs cease to be inanimate crack lines and become vicious and spiteful beasts, hell bent on seeing you lying on your back on the ground with blood streaming out of your ears. On one such day (in May 1983) after falling off ‘Anxiety Attack’ a few times Paul Colyvan (Animal) in a fit of rage hitchhiked back to Armidale rather than spend a minute longer at the cliff waiting for everyone else to drive back.

Given the extremes of feeling for the place, which is so much a part of the character of the cliff, it is not surprising that the cliff drifts in and out of fashion from time to time. It always manages to attract a few visitors though, even in recent times, when it has been largely overlooked due to its lack of bolt protected wall climbs which are fashionable at present. Considering this lack of interest in recent years it is remarkable that some of New England’s hardest routes are at Ebor, in fact Ebor has always been well represented in the upper grades at any particular point in time and was often the scene of the first climb at a particular grade right from the time of its discovery as a climbing area.

1974

Anyway, the story begins in April 1974, when local, @bobkillip, records the first climb at Ebor on the Third Breakaway, ‘Luce’ 17M1, a thin crack that was aided to a roof which went free. Ironically now that the route is free at 21 the roof is considered about 19 (and some even insist that the roof is the crux). Shortly after that Jill Kelman and Al Stephens also did ‘Haggis Hole’ 13, also on the third breakaway, which was the only other route recorded at Ebor that year, despite Killip’s enthusiasm for the place. In reality Killip would have been climbing near his limit on most climbs at Ebor, since 17 was the highest grade in New England at the time, and no one else was capable of climbing at that standard. So it’s not surprising that development was slow at first, however, the interest was there and it prompted New England climbers to get into crack climbing, a trend which wouldn’t change significantly for nearly 10 years.

1975

In March the following year Killip returned to do ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’ 18 also on the third breakaway, which was New England’s first 18 (although now it is considered 19!). Before that however Al Stephens and Rob Dixon recorded the first route on the first breakaway in February with ‘Supermouse’ M2 and went on to do a few others on the same breakaway as the year progressed, the best of which is probably ‘The Joker’ 17 led by Dixon. Dixon along with mature age novice Brian Birchall and visiting Queenslander Trevor Gynther also added the first route on the second breakaway with ‘Chunder Chimney’ 12. Also of note from 1975 was Stephens’ route ‘Sundown’ M2 which made the first use of bolts on a climb (for aid) in New England. By the end of 1975 there were still only a total of 13 routes recorded at Ebor. In 1976 Richard Curtis arrived in Armidale and he, like Killip, was keen on hard jam cracks and provided a bit of healthy and friendly competition for Killip, who had dominated Armidale’s hard climbing scene for the past few years. Curtis was particularly keen on Ebor where he added many fine new routes, but the other important thing he was to do was to provide encouragement for Brian Birchall who improved dramatically and also acquired a taste for hard jam cracks such as those found at Ebor. The two teamed up for many first ascents at Ebor and elsewhere such as Kaputar and Gara gorge, although the newly discovered Gara granite areas where neglected somewhat in 1976 for the sake of Ebor. During the year Curtis led the superb ‘Narcissus’ 19 on the First Breakaway, ‘Anxiety Attack’ 19 on the Second Breakaway, freed the Killip route ‘Luce’ 20/21 which was the first climb in new England graded above 20 (it has since been upgraded to 21). That was on the 3rd Breakaway where he also added ‘Prime Cut’ 19/20 with an aid rest, which was overlooked in the description. He also did the testy ‘Knuckleduster’ 18 which was among the first climbs on the Fourth Breakaway. Birchall led ‘Fear and Loathing’ 17 and ‘Rattlesnake’ 18 on the Second Breakaway and the classic ‘Jugular’ 19 (later downgraded to 18) which was the first route recorded on the Fifth Breakaway.

1976

Bob Killip’s only significant contribution at Ebor in 1976 was to steal a route on the 4th breakaway which Curtis had cleaned and not had a chance to climb yet. Killip called the route ‘Rooflet’ 18 (it has since been upgraded to 19). This marked the end of the ‘friendly’ competition between Curtis and Killip. Other routes worth mentioning from 1976 are Jill Kelman’s ‘Double Trouble’ 16 on the 4th Breakaway and Phil Prior’s middle grade classic ‘Caballero’ 14 (since upgraded to 16 after some enthusiastic cleaning years later). The new 2 volume green guide ‘Rockclimbs in New England’ by Bob Killip and Brian Birchall came out in the later part of 1976 and featured 40 routes at Ebor up to grade 19, 27 of which had been added in that year and another 10 were added after the deadline for the guide to bring the years total to 37 new routes and one aid elimination. This was Ebor’s finest hour!

1977

In 1977 Birchall left for Melbourne and Curtis continued on his merry way cleaning up many great climbs at Ebor such as ‘Backdoor Man’ 19 and ‘Sleight of Hand’ 19 on the 4th Breakaway and ‘Affection Injection’ 18 and ‘Bash Street’ 20 on the First Breakaway. He also discovered the 6th Breakaway and did the first easier routes there. Joe Friend arrived in Armidale late in the year and did his only significant routes here, the off width ‘Blinky Bill’ 20 on the First Breakaway and the thin crack ‘Inspiration Point’ 18 on the 5th Breakaway. Killip although still around only made sporadic appearances and led nothing of interest at Ebor in 1977. There were 19 new routes in 1977.

1978

In 1978 both Curtis and Killip left Armidale and Birchall returned from Melbourne but it was Joe Friend who was to dominate the scene in 1978 doing many new routes in Gara Gorge but Ebor apparently didn’t interest him and no new routes were recorded here in 1978.

1979

1979 was a year of general slackness. After Friend left, Birchall was in charge of shop and very little in the way of new routes was done (only 4 at Ebor), the most significant being the rattly fist crack ‘Fidget’ 17 on the 4th Breakaway. It was, however, a period of consolidation after the grade pushing and exploration of the previous few years and it allowed everyone the chance to get out and repeat routes.

There was also a new younger crowd of climbers such as John Lattanzio, Greg Pritchard, Ed Sharpe and later in the year Mark Colyvan, who were keen to push their grades and there was no better place than at Ebor under Birchall’s guiding hand.

1980

1980 saw even more new-comers to Armidale in Paul Bayne and Austin Legler (from the USA). Al Stephens, who had done very little in the past few years jumped into the limelight again with Rob Clark who arrived in Armidale the previous year. The other important development in 1980 was the arrival of ‘Friends’ to New England which had immediate applications at Ebor, and later in the year the use of chalk became common.

The first route to be done in 1980 was Paul Bayne’s lead of an old problem which had been previously attempted by Dick Curtis to give ‘Anyone for Tennis’ 20MO. A couple of months later, also on the Fourth Breakaway, Mark Colyvan led the slippery off width ‘Resurrection Shuffle’ 18M0 and a little later still, visitor Tony Dignan led the classic test piece ‘Brown Buffalo’ 20. However it was the Second Breakaway which received the most attention and yielded many new routes in the latter part of the year.

Clark and Stephens did the classic line ‘Amphetamine Annie’ 18. Austin Legler did ‘Anthrax’ 19M0 (& later freed it at 20) and Lattanzio and Colyvan did many new middle and easy grade routes, the best of which was ‘Hitman’ 15. All in all there were 22 new routes for the year bringing the total to 95 at Ebor at the end of 1980. Lattanzio and Legler left Armidale at the end of the year and Pritchard left early in the next.

At the beginning of 1981 the hardest climb in New England was ‘Demon Dropout’ 21 (later upgraded to 22) put up in 1978 and while Ebor’s hardest was ‘Luce’ 20/21 (later upgraded to 21) freed in 1976. So there had been no advancement in grades at Ebor for 4 years and for 2 years in the rest of New England; that was to change in 198Early in the year Greg Pritchard, Ed Sharp and Al Stephens developed Dead Heroes Buttress and did quite a few routes here, the best of which was ‘Daroof’ 17 led by Stephens. In March Colyvan freed his own route ‘Resurrection Shuffle’ at 18 and later in the same day, along with Ed Sharpe, freed ‘Anyone for Tennis’ 20 under controversial circumstances by preplacing 2 pitons that weren’t present on the first ascent, to protect the scary top section. After much criticism Colyvan removed the pegs and led it free again without them. About midway through the year the new guide book by John Lattanzio and Greg Pritchard came out entitled ‘Climbers Guide to the N.E. Tablelands’ It contained 116 routes recorded at Ebor, although 3 were mistakes (and one omission) so there were 114 routes at this point up to grade 20/2Later that year after the new routing frenzy at Dome Wall had died down, interest reverted to Ebor and Colyvan led (and then freed) the classic offhand crack ‘Lethal Dose’ 21 while also on the 6th breakaway Birchall and Clark took turns on ‘Toxic Shock’ 20 which was one of Clark’s last routes before he left Armidale for Hobart. Right at the end of the year Colyvan led Birchall and Killip up ‘Chemical Warfare’ 22 to bring the years total number of new routes up to 25 along with 4 aid eliminations..

1982

Interest continued at Ebor in the early part of 1982, particularly on the first breakaway where Stephens led ‘Bombay Duck’ 20MO (freed a couple of weeks later, at 21, by Lattanzio, who had returned to Armidale to live), and Colyvan led ‘Pretty Vacant’ 20, ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’ 19 and the desperate flared crack ‘Power Play’ 23MO (freed by Colyvan shortly afterwards at 23). The 4th Breakaway yielded ‘Domination Quickstep’ 19 by Lattanzio and ‘Transactional Burnout’ 20 by Birchall. Colyvan left Armidale for Sydney early in 1982. However he returned later in the year to do ‘Arsenic and Old Lace’ 24 on the 6th Breakaway, which was New England’s first 24. Interest in Ebor waned as the year went on and a total of only 9 routes and 3 aid eliminations were recorded during 1982.

1983

1983 marked the beginning of New England climbers interest in bolt protected walls and slabs and consequently they have been pretty lean years at Ebor since then. During 1983 Colyvan returned to do ‘Blue Murder’ 21 on the Second Breakaway while Stephens led ‘Solid Gold’ 20MO, the first route on Solid Gold Buttress (freed later that same day by Colyvan at 20).

Later in the year Solid Gold Buttress was the scene of a rather unfortunate accident and rescue involving Brian Birchall, a 30 ft ground fall, a variety of popped runners and an unfinished new route. 1983 also saw Mark Colyvan lead the classic ‘It’s My Party’ 22 on the Third Breakaway on yet another of his semi-_regular visits, and Paul Bayne leave Armidale. During 1983 there were 8 new routes along with one aid elimination to bring Ebor’s total number of routes at the end of 1983 up to 137. 1984 sees the return of Richard Curtis to live in Armidale and he frees his old route ‘Prime Cut’ at 20 (which no-one knew had any aid in it, it just so happens that the couple of ascents it had also found it necessary to rest on the rope!) and added ‘Little Wonder’ 18 to the First Breakaway. He also took visitor Kevin Lindorff here so he could do the arête ‘Chocolate Barbarian’ 23, which was the first bolt protected face climb here, although poorly bolted, since the bolt spoils another naturally protected route.

1984 yielded a total of 4 new routes and one aid elimination; In 1985 Stephens does the classic bolt protected face route ‘Sucking Faces’ 20 on the first breakaway.

Curtis and Animal (Paul Colyvan) visited the other side of the gorge and did ‘Snatch and Grab’ 18 (led Curtis) and ‘Grab the Snatch’ 21 (led Animal) on Bondage Buttress. They were the only 3 new routes done in 1985.

1986 saw a couple of aid eliminations of interest with Lattanzio freeing ‘Supermouse’ at 22 and Stephens freeing all but the start of ‘Sundown’ now 20M.

Larry Dixon from Dorrigo began developing Pub Buttress on the other side of the gorge with ‘Damp Monkeys’ 18 being the first route, and probably the best to date. A total of 5 new routes and 2 aid eliminations for the year.

The only activity in 1987 has been Larry Dixon and Al Stephens continuing development of Pub Buttress and bolting some of the arêtes on the second breakaway such as ‘Modern Electrics’ 17 (by Dixon) and ‘Ilean’ 20 (by Stephens), making use of their new power drill. A total of 13 new routes were done in 1987 to bring the total number of routes recorded at Ebor at the end of 1987 to 162 with grade 3 being the easiest and grade 24 being the hardest.

I am tempted to say that the future at Ebor looks fairly bleak however stranger things have happened than crack climbing returning to favour and if recent developments with power drills and aretes continue, Ebor may yet be dragged into the modern era of face climbing. We’ll just have to wait and see.

Mark Colyvan 1 Jan 1988 1988, the Bi-Centennial year, produced four more crack-lines, the best being ‘Tough Customer’ 21 by Jack Lattanzio and Mark Colyvan. Two bolt-protected routes were also established; Tadpole’s ‘It Pays To Belong’ 20 ,and the very beautiful ‘Dream Of The Devil’ by Mark Colyvan. This climb being the first to have fixed hangers at Ebor.

In December 1989 the summer heat melted something in Al Stephens’ brain causing him, with Mark Colyvan, to bolt up ‘Dead Calm’ 22 at the 1st Breakaway . The Nymboida was very low that summer so Larry Dixon and a group of Rafting Guides visited Ebor and did ‘Old Punks and Young Hippies’ 16 on the 2nd breakaway.

1990 saw only two climbs established, both on the 2nd breakaway and both using bolts; ‘Rage’ 21 by Stephens, Gavin Dean and Anita Gordon, and ‘Steel Magnolias’ 24 , equal to the hardest grade at Ebor so far, by Mark Colyvan, Dean and Stephens.

There were no new routes at Ebor during 1991, 1992, and 1993. Many repeats were done during this time at both the First and Second Breakaways, with occasional visits to the Fourth.

Three routes were completed in 1994. At the First Breakaway Brian Cork led Scott Cleland up ‘Biscuit’ 12, and Cleland led Stephens up ‘Nought’ 18.

At the Second Breakaway Gordon Low led Al Stephens, Brian Cork and Toby Waters up ‘Sex and Intrigue’ 20.

1995 saw a new climbing style developing at Ebor, “Shimmying up a fridge”. Gordon Low used this style at the 2nd Breakaway to complete ‘New Blue Dress’ 24, equal to Ebor’s hardest.

In 1996 Gordon Low with Ben Christian, again perfected this technique by leading Ebor’s hardest climb to date, ‘The Proverbial’ 26, at the Third Breakaway.

What’s next? There are many more arêtes to be “shimmied” but they will all be very hard. If you can perfect the technique it will be worth the effort.

Al Stephens 27 Aug 1996

In 98 James Langston with Al Stephens added Funky Monkey.

Either not much happened after this or a lot of history has been lost.

In 2006 the NPWS wanted to ban climbing here but in consultation with the UNEMC future climbing here is secure. In 2007 Liam Jackson and Todd Free added some bolts around the lookout as part of this agreement.

©

1.4.10. Mt Yarrowyck 307 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: -30.461179, 151.374702

summary

Mt Yarrowyck is granite bouldering and climbing. There is a lot of climbing that has been done and still more to be discovered. The boulders range from 2m to 15m high and the roped climbing is up to 2 pitches long.

description

The Mt Yarrowyck Nature Reserve west of Armidale is best known for it’s Aboriginal rock art and it’s isolation. However this area also offers some superb bouldering on exceptionally high quality granite. The boulder fields are extensive and the environment and landings usually friendly. The rock is featured with unusual crystalline pockets, heinous slopers and the arch-typical granite crimper. These combine to offer problems ranging from V0 slabs to steep pocketed test-pieces. The best time to climb is from March through to November. Winter days can be cold with single digit temperatures not unusual whilst pleasant summer mornings can give way to scorching midday sun. The area is serviced by the NPWS who maintain a toilet and some BBQs but drinking water is not available so be warned, particularly if you intend to visit in the summer months.

Jeff Gracie.

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Anaiwan.

Bullcorronda is the First Nations name for Mount Yarrowyck. It is regarded as a ceremonial meeting site and is directly associated with nearby bora grounds as well as being linked to story sites in other parts of the Tablelands. Cultural features of the area include art sites, symbolical engravings on the rock and historically there were tree carvings, burial sites and stone arrangements.

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

access issues

The majority of the bouldering and climbing at Yarrowyck is located on private property, and the land owner was a climber and has granted access to all climbers anytime, EXCEPT for all crags east of the ridge line which are too close to the land owners house and are off limits, in particular 'Captain Pugwash Memorial Buttress'.

Please do not leave garbage around, leave gates as you find them and do not harass stock. Climbing at Yarrowyck is a privilege, not a right.

The access tracks are in the Nature Reserve which is managed by NPWS which takes you to the Aboriginal Rock Art site. Bouldering or climbing in the reserve is not clear so please avoid this and check the boundaries when exploring.

https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/mount-yarrowyck-nature-reserve

https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/topics/parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/park-management/documents/mount-yarrowyck-nature-reserve

approach

Yarrowyck is about 30 minutes west of Armidale.

From Armidale take the Bundarra Rd from Richardsons Hardware store and the Sale yards for about 30 minutes.

When you get to the T-intersection at Thunderbolts Way, turn right and after about 1km turn right into the car park of the Mt Yarrowyck Reserve.

history

It wasn’t until 1975 that the potential of the boulder fields at Yarrowyck was realized. Although the crags higher up the hill had long been a focus of local attention, the numerous problems on the low lying boulders had gone largely unnoticed. Development following the initial reconnaissance's yielded a number of area classics including Killop's Killer , Burchill's Bomber, Latanzio's Lurch and Bayne's Claim To Fame. The main protagonists at this time being Bob Killop, John Latanzio, Brian Burchill, and Paul Bayne. Unlike other bouldering areas at that time the problems at Yarrowyck focused mostly on boldness rather than technical difficulty.

By the mid 80s the focus of the Armidale climbing scene had again returned to roped climbing with the popularity of the ‘practice boulders’ all but a fond memory. However the bouldering at Mt Yarrowyck returned briefly to the limelight in the early 90’s following the arrival of the now infamous Carl Schultz. Although Carl's bouldering passion was seen by some as an oddball activity, he pioneered a number of extremely difficult problems in the Armidale area, many of which are yet to see repeats. It was in 1997 that the Yarrowyck area underwent a full bouldering renaissance after being rediscovered by Armidale locals Ben Christian, Gordon Low, and Jeff Gracie. The new problems all focused on technical difficulty and included the development of the Sharpest Mono Area with it’s classic problems, 'Pocket Fest' (V2), and 'The Sharpest Mono in the World' (V3). Development went into overdrive in early 1999 when the mist finally cleared from Christians’ ‘bouldering goggles’ allowing him to at last realize the true potential of the area (something that Gracie had been telling him for years). The first focus of attention was 'The Trackside Boulder' where 'New Beginning' (V4) and 'Jingoism' (V7) both saw quick ascents.

1.4.11. Saddleback Mountain 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.452556, 151.330036

description

An undocumented bouldering area on private land with apparently ~200 established problems from the early 2000's

access issues

Private land, unknown details

history

James Scarborough, Cameron Barrie, Kyle Dunsire similar vintage to Yarrwocyk

1.4.12. Wallaby Rocks 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.642095, 151.468049

summary

Worth a trip just for the highball sentinel boulder

description

A mixed bag of tumbled granite with a few gems

access issues

Crown land, should be no access issues, avoid crossing the western boundary onto farm land.

approach

From the Matilda's BP service station at Uralla, drive west on East street which becomes Kingston Road for 3km until you cross the bridge over Kentucky creek. The boulder field is obvious on the left with the Sentinel boulder clearly enticing you. Park after the bridge on the north side just down Wallaby Rocks road.

history

It seems like everyone has scouted this for years, and it probably has seen some sends before. Recorded history kicked off in Apr 2016

1.4.13. Bluff Rock 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -29.167188, 151.998922

summary

This cliff is situated on private property and is also the location of a significant Aboriginal massacre site. Climbing here is considered extremely offensive by the Aboriginal community of this area.

description

Routes listed here are for historical record only and are described from left (east facing) to right (north face).

access issues

Access to this area is prohibited. The cliff itself and the approach to it is private property and the Aboriginal owners do not want climbing on their land. Please respect their wishes.

history

Bluff Rock was the site of an appalling 1844 Aboriginal massacre by European colonisers. For more detailed information read:

https://monumentaustralia.org.au/themes/conflict/indigenous/display/23416-bluff-rock-massacre

https://researchdirect.westernsydney.edu.au/islandora/object/uws%3A783/datastream/PDF/download/citation.pdf

Climbing history has been poorly recorded due to the access issues.

1.4.14. Beulah 670 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.484800, 150.929000

summary

Rolling terrain covered in (almost) unclimbed granite boulders and domes.

description

Beulah is the Axelsen Family Station. The station is 3000 acres in size and has rolling hills covered in granite boulders as well as 3 large domes up to 70m in height.

access issues

Access to Beulah is closed.

history

The first boulder problems and routes were scrubbed in 2005. The following year more potential problems were scrubbed, GPS'd and left for another time. The idea for the Festivus began in early 2007 and the first Festivus saw 7 people out in August sending some scrubbed lines. The second annual saw attendance double and the date change to Easter. The third annual event became the a full blown Beulah Rock Festivus complete with sponsorship, prizes, events and climbers from all over Australia. 2010 had 60 people from all over coming out for 4 days of perfect weather and a 132 new problems sent! Access to Beulah is now closed.

1.4.15. Gibraltar Rock 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: -29.599052, 152.370324

description

Gibraltar Rock is a mountain in Northern New South Wales.

1.4.16. Uncarved Block R&D wall 18 routes in Gym

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.538618, 151.687906

summary

Closed.

1.4.17. Kwiamble National Park 145 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -29.152761, 150.979838

summary

Lots of great quality scultped river granite

description

This guide is very much a draft / work in progress pulling bits from various sources into something coherent. Feel free to add more...

Be wary of paper wasps which tend to build nests in many shady underclings.

access issues

This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park

approach

Roughly 35 mins north of Ashford or 80 mins North of Inverell in northern NSW

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park/Visitor-Info#Getting-there-and-parking

where to stay

In the park is a nice spacious campground Lemon Tree Flat:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/camping-and-accommodation/campgrounds/Lemon-Tree-Flat-campground

history

History, especially for bouldering is essentially lost in time. Many parties have been coming here for decades.

Scraps of info sourced from all over the place:

http://www.jottie.com.au/bouldering/McIntyre261204/

http://www.jottie.net/bouldering/McIntyre-99/index.html

http://www.jottie.net/bouldering/McIntyre-280505/STILL0001.html

http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/1300/McIntyre-Falls-Bouldering

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Australasia/Australia/New_South_Wales/North_Western/MacIntyre_Gorge/

http://upskillclimbing.blogspot.com.au/2008/01/climbing-report-macintyre-falls.html

1.4.18. UNEOAC Climbing Wall 28 routes in Gym

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: -30.491549, 151.638822

summary

Cheap and convenient

description

This gym is run by the University of New England Outdoor Adventure Club. See our Facebook group or website for more info:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/291508959441/

https://uneoac.org/climbing-information/

history

The wall was built back in the 90's, in 2014 it was renovated and extended with a sick bouldering cave and viewing mezzanine.

1.4.19. Oaky Creek Falls 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.575386, 152.069258

approach

Take the Grafton/Dorrigo road from Armidale. Turn right onto the Kempsey Rd. just past the Wollomombi Bridge. Continue along this till you come to the turn off to the Oaky Hydro-Electric power station. At the power station is a vertical railway line. The climb on the falls is upstream of this, access being down the road near the railway or (gulp) abseil the falls. Only one climb exists here, Magnificent Obsession.

1.4.20. Green Valley 0 routes in Area

description

Area of potential 15 minutes north of Bendemeer. Rock is the very sharp, large crystal granite that Bendemeer is famous for.

access issues

West side of the road is crown land along the gully. East side is also crown but may have a long lease held by Gunnalong station. Maybe keep in eye site of the fence till i can completely clear this up.

approach

Park on the western side of the highway near the large dam and Green valley road.

1.4.21. Bendemeer 130 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.884854, 151.163602

summary

Granite

description

Bendemeer area is predominantly granite boulders. The greater area may yet uncover some hidden gems. The boulders are scattered throughout the landscape, with only small clusters grouped. The banks of the macdonald yield many problems

access issues

All climbs listed here are on public access land, crown, TSR, or river access. Many great areas around bendemeer are on private land but due to fear of liability or theft these areas are strictly of limits. Unless you like been shot at while climbing..

approach

Bendemeer is approximately 40 km north of Tamworth and 70 km south of Armidale on the new england highway.

where to stay

The caravan park or hotel. http://www.bendemeerhotel.com.au http://www.bendemeertouristpark.com.au/

ethic

Please close all gates that you enter into and out of TSR, please don't spook stock and Above all PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE ANY RUBBISH! This is the easiest way to get locals off side!

history

Little history is known of any climbing in the area, as fare as we know. No known climbing north of the Moonbi hills and south east of Beulah...

1.4.22. Watsons Creek 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.749938, 151.036744

summary

Granite

description

An area north west of Bendemeer, holds granite of varied quality. A mixture of Private and Public land. The Public land is two old mining areas that have been made into national parks. The den mountain watsons creek national reserve is huge and has heaps of potential but can at times be difficult to access. The nature reserve in watsons creek has not been fully explored but only has yielded small sharp boulders.

access issues

Both reserves are public access. All private property access is closed unless you have direct permission from the owner.

approach

From Bendemeer head north-west on the Watsons creek road till the t intersection at Longford station. Follow the road to the left and follow the Watsons creek road. Once you are back on the tar you are in the village of Watsons creek.

1.4.23. Warrabah national park 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.563525, 150.971066

summary

Granite, of good quality along the river. Varying quality in other areas.

description

A spot with plenty of potential, loads of boulders and swimming holes. http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Warrabah-National-Park

access issues

National park

approach

With a 4x4 (river crossing) from the Armidale travel to Uralla. Then turn off at the kingstown road. Travel towards Kingstown till you get to the retreat turn off, to the left. Turn and head to the retreat. When you come over the river at the retreat turn right into pringle road. turn into glen barra road and and follow that right through to the namoi river. cross the river and turn right and continue into the national park. Alternatively you can travel to Manilla and between manilla lookout and the manilla bridge is the sign and turn off for the park heading north. follow that through 40km to the park. It feels longer.

history

Unknown

1.4.24. Lake Copeton 1,419 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -29.922117, 151.012497

summary

Plenty of quality granite, much that is unexplored.

description

Lake Copeton is approximately 20 minutes drive south from Inverell. Mainly bouldering, but there may also be some DWS potential. It is a large area that is only partially explored so there are possibly some undiscovered beauties in there.

access issues

None known at this stage. Some rock formations may have significance to traditional owners so I would leave the drills at home.

approach

The main access is either by the "long side" (leaving via Warialda road from Inverell, or the "short side (leaving via the Bundara Rd from Inverell)

where to stay

It is a huge camping area. You can camp for free in some areas or pay to have the luxuries of the camp ground on the long side.

ethic

Its a bouldering area. If you found a route worth bolting you should get permission from the local authorities.

history

Not much is known of previous climbng in the area so feel free to contribute!

1.4.25. Doctors Creek 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

summary

Unknown area somewhere near Armidale, mentioned in Screamer mag 10, Jul-Dec 1981. The closest Doctors Creek I can find is near Narrabri

1.4.26. Glen Innes and surrounds 16 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -29.738672, 151.761244

1.4.27. Wooldridge Fossicking Reserve 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.631679, 151.473172

description

A nice creek with camping and good rock but limited potential. There has been probably a dozen problems and a couple routes put up with no recorded history.

approach

From the Matilda's BP service station at Uralla, drive west on East street which becomes Kingston Road for 3.5km (directly passing 'Wallaby Rocks') then turn right onto Devoncourt road and follow the signs to the Fossicking area for another 2km.

where to stay

There is free camping with toilets here:

https://www.uralla.com/Explore/Things-to-Do/Fossicking/Wooldridge-Fossicking-Area

1.4.28. Jigsaw 1 route in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

summary

TBC.

1.4.29. Fernside (near Mount Mitchell) 153 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -29.657088, 152.048945

summary

Take Old Grafton Rd on Glen Innes side the crag becomes obvious on right after a few kms, there is an obvious lay-by/parking bay just before the first descent sign. Some larger buttresses with a few obvious trad lines plus the blank sections for those interested in developing routes, everything here requires a lot of cleaning.

1.4.30. Telecom 4 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

summary

Local small boulder field, sensitive access, tbc.

1.5. Central Coast 1,803 routes in Region

33 32 1 2 4 3 5 6 29 7 10 9 8 11 31 12 13 15 14 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 26 21 28 27

1 Palmdale 2 The Entrance Baths 3 Berrys Head 4 Mossy forest 5 Forresters Beach 6 Way Out West 7 West Gosford 8 Apex boulders 9 Popran 10 Rumbalara boulders 11 Point Clare 12 Tascott 13 Koolewong 14 Copacabana 15 Deliverance 16 Dark Forrest 17 Woy Woy 18 Wondabyne 19 The Bluffs 20 Joll's Bridge 21 Hawkesbury Bridge Cliff 22 Blackwall 23 Southern Cousin 24 The Tanks 25 Bouddi National Park 26 Umina 27 Warrah Trig 28 Brooklyn 29 Hominy 31 The Skillion 32 Chapman's Hill 33 Jilliby

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.219302, 151.135133

description

The area between the Hawkesbury River and Lake Macquarie.

history

Local climbers, especially the Wondabyne Climbing Club (active mid-70s to mid-80s), comprehensively explored the area's roped climbing potential by the early 1980s, but sadly not a lot of information survives from this period. What is known is that they did a lot of exploration by boat, so most of the cliffs visible from the water would have been explored by this group.

This group climbed quite a lot with Joe Friend, who is reported to have lived a semi-hermit-like existence on Long Island near Brooklyn for several months during this period. One story involves a very hungover ascent up the tall eastern cliff on Lion Island, which, given the apparent rock quality there, was probably a pretty terrifying outing. Another story involves Phil Stallard of the WCC aid climbing the major crack system at Eagle Rock on the Hawksbury, with his leg in a cast (they'd planned on attempting to free the route, but Phil broke his leg in the weeks prior so they went and aided it instead).

In the mid-90s the Monks brothers explored much of the 'Bouddi National Park' areas, and top-roped and bouldered throughout the park (in particular the Lobster Beach areas and 'Bullima'). At around this time, Paul Riviere and friends were developing Joll's Bridge, and over the subsequent decade development inched north and east.

Development in Bouddi National Park (especially at the Lobster Beach Cave) has been quite contentious with NPWS and local residents, especially as the park has also been illegally developed by mountain bikers during this same period. A new plan of management was drafted in 2019 which seeks to ban climbing from the entirety of the park.

1.5.1. Palmdale 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.315055, 151.351014

description

This area has an awesome boulder cave with potential for some rnice really hard lines on thin crimps. There is also a heap of bolted climbs on either side of the road. Some look quite hard. Mostly equiped with oversized glue in hex head bolts.

access issues

Turn off the F3 freeway at Ourimbah, turn at roundabout and head north parallel to freeway till you can turn left and go under freeway following signs to Palmdale. Follow this road for a few km's till you see a sign for the logging road up the dirt hill (Middle Ridge Rd). Follow this steep poorly maintained road till you come to the obvious rock cutting. The climbs are on either side of the road.

It may still be possible to access the location from the northern side along Yarramalong Rd via Red Hill Rd (turn at the Tree Tops turn-off). Follow this until you can turn left to continue along Middle Ridge Rd.

approach

Middle Ridge Rd is closed and blocked at the intersection of Palmdale Rd. You can park here or nearby and walk (uphill the whole way) approx. 25-30 minutes to the rock cuttings. Alternatively the road is still accessible by trail and mountain bikes.

1.5.2. The Entrance Baths 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.350656, 151.503834

summary

Seaside bouldering

description

Small 3-4m high headland immediately south of The Entrance Baths - opposite 98 Boondilla Rd. Being seaside, it is sandy and the rock is a bit soft in places, so expect breakages. It's not worth going out of your way to go here but if you're holidaying nearby you can still have a bit of fun.

approach

1 minute walk-in time if you're casual about it.

ethic

This is strictly a no bolting crag.

history

Have seen chalk on here many years ago but no known recorded efforts.

1.5.3. Berrys Head 30 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.392125, 151.359946

summary

Somehow only recently developed boulders scattered around a hillside. Potential for quite a few classic moderates.

description

A mixture of boulders and small caves scattered around the western side of Berrys Head. The northern end tends to be sunnier with better rock, the southern end more shady and the rock more sandy.

access issues

It might be a good idea for larger groups not to all park in the one spot.

approach

Can be approached from Berrys Head Rd, Kent St or Belina Av. Just walk straight up the hill to the top. It's much easier to walk across the open summit to get between areas rather than traverse around. Topo locations are approximate - can someone geo-locate these properly?

ethic

Clean up new stuff well, and use minimal chalk.

history

Found towards end of the 2021 lock down - how this area was not discovered and/or developed previously is a bit of a mystery. Still lots of potential for more lines, only the obvious ones done so far.

1.5.4. Mossy forest 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.391821, 151.364641

description

A great little crag tucked away in the mountains of Wyoming. Easy walking track in and only 15min walk from berrys head crag for a great little bouldering day out

access issues

We are climbing on darkinjung land. Make sure you are respectful and take your rubbish with you

approach

Park on Cottosloe Ave in Lisarow. Walk up the Cottosloe Ave access track for about 350m. Take a right onto Berry Head Ridge track. The boulders are either side of that trail. You can't miss them (5 minute walk)

OR

Park at the top of Belina ave in Wyoming. Take the Jane Young trail up, and you will pass 3 small bridges. On the 3rd bridge take the track to the left and up the hill. Once you reach the top take the track left that wraps around the summit and follow that track. The boulders are either side of that trail. You can't miss them. The boulders are not geo located so they are a very rough whereabouts. Please feel free to locate them.

1.5.5. Forresters Beach 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.405092, 151.477839

summary

Seaside bouldering.

description

The bouldering here is really good, would be better with more traffic to clean it up but other wise just be prepared to clean off The sand that gets.blown onto the rocks. A few more harder stella lines to be climbed with more classic font style bouldering in the v2-v4 to be had. Sun goes behind the cliff around 3:30pm in summer daylight saving time. Avoid the hot mornings and aim for low tide and low swell

approach

it takes 15 minutes from the carpark to the north end of the beach and then another 10 or so past the point where you can no longer walk on the sand.

1.5.6. Way Out West 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -33.412938, 151.317368

access issues

Park at top of access road (off Nells Rd, West Gosford) that runs up to the container storage site. There is a trail/path that leaves the N/W corner of the container site and runs uphill behind. At the 2nd large boulder head diagonally right, up the hill (roughly north). After about 200m you shoud strike a little cave that is the start for Into The Night. Climbs below are from left to right.

1.5.7. West Gosford 76 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.421223, 151.315201

summary

Mainly sport climbing with a few trad lines thrown in. Bring bolt plates

access issues

Access as given below no longer works. The House of Praise has gone elsewhere and an Office Furniture Warehouse now occupies the building and the path up the retaining wall and along the fence is blocked off. Will update new access when known.

Drive along Manns Rd, turn L into Carnarvon, and L into Tathra. Park on road at top gate at 'House of Praise', an evangelical church that looks like a factory (large SOM black sign on building). Walk up hill on uphill side of this building, up to wire fence on top of hill. Walk along wire fence till you get to a boulder and onto an old fire trail. Turn right here for House of Praise crag or left for other crag.

1.5.8. Apex boulders 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.424242, 151.335463

summary

Other blocs in the area are still being developed, be mindful of unfinished ascents

description

Plenty to climb at all levels, also home to one of the best coast classics.

Other blocs in the area are still being developed, be mindful of unfinished ascents

Boulders are a rough whereabouts and need to be properly located on the map

access issues

We are climbing on Darkinjung land. Please take your rubbish and treat the land with respect

approach

Park at the top of rotary apex Dr Gosford at the lookout, take the natural path on the right just past the park table, go down and left around the big gum so you should be just below the lookout, then follow it down as you come to a big rock on your left from there follow the track right and you will end up at the first bloc (apex)

1.5.9. Popran 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -33.422724, 151.169275

summary

A warm sunny crag with kindly bolted single pitch sport routes (and a couple of little mutlis) overlooking the creek. A good range of grades makes this a good choice for many.

description

This is a great crag situated on Mangrove Creek, a tributary of the Hawkesbury river. It is 3km north of the small town of Spencer. It is predominantly ring bolted sport climbs, with one or two mixed routes thrown in. it faces west and is uncomfortably hot on summer afternoons.

approach

Take the Somersby exit Off the M1 to Peats Ridge and continue to Central Mangrove. Follow the signs towards Wisemans Ferry on Wisemans Ferry Rd. Just before crossing Mangrove creek Popran Rd exits to the left. The road is unsealed and parallels the creek. Continue past a caravan park, Pure Valley, and Hominy Creek. Just past a sharp right hand turn there are two driveways off to the right and a boulder filled creek to the left, park here in a grass clearing on the right hand side of the road adjacent to a creek to park.

50m further south down the road from the parking a tall rock cairn sits on top of a boulder. The path goes directly up the hill from here. The cliff is apparent in about 200m and you arrive at the base of Green Slugs.

history

First explored by Phil Stallard and the Wondabyne Climbing Club in the late 1970s / early 1980s. Sadly no information survives from this period.

1.5.10. Rumbalara boulders 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.422325, 151.349611

description

A sweet central coast crag with quality low to moderate lines and the potential for more FA's of all levels of climbing

access issues

We are climbing on Darkinjung land. Please take your rubbish and treat the land with respect.

approach

park at the top of Jarrett Street, at the gate to the fire trail. Walk to the fork, take left for Bulbasaur boulder, for others Walk up the trail veering right towards the water tower. Make it past the tower about 100mtrs until you can see the prominent big roof cave (big mumas house) on your left up the mountain. Make your way directly up to the cave.

OR; Drive up Dolly Ave and all the way to the very end where the is a tower. Park where there is a little 'bay' of sorts. Walk to the end but going along the ironbark trail on your righht. There is a little sign on the right side. Go directly behind this sign and down the hill. Big Mumas House is to the right. Follow the track going right to Split Bloc and The Hide Out.

See approach for each individual block.

1.5.11. Point Clare 107 routes in Area

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.440745, 151.318991

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

1.5.12. Tascott 21 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.452154, 151.312843

1.5.13. Koolewong 125 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.470042, 151.315729

description

Koolewong is a suburb in the Central Coast region of New South Wales. Koolewong has a population of approximately 800 people.

approach

Koolewong is easily accessible by car via Brisbane Water Drive.

1.5.14. Copacabana 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.482138, 151.444033

summary

Seaside Bouldering

description

Seaside Bouldering north and south of Winnie Bay, Copacabana. Scattered blocks but some high quality routes.

approach

Park along the park on Del Monte Place (opposite house number 44) and walk down to the bottom of the park to find the path leading to Winnie Bay.

1.5.15. Deliverance 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -33.476792, 151.139634

description

Hawkesbury sandstone at it's best. 'Steep', water polished and long. Shame about the current problematic access through private property (permission required) - or a rather epic 4.5km walk along fire roads from above. Cliff faces north-east, and in summer gets into total shade by 2pm. The big plus is that the crag is very steep and has major corners which block much of the sun, so you can climb here all day in summer. The crag is famous for the tilted slopers which turn an easy looking route into total desperation!

© (nmonteith)

1.5.16. Dark Forrest 44 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.483044, 151.308406

description

Some beautiful blocs and caves scattered across a hillside with views of Woy Woy bay. Will be a fantastic area once developed, alot of potential for new problems.

© (dazzla)

approach

To access 'Dark Forrest' find Woy Woy Bay road, Phegans bay area. Follow Woy Woy Bay Road untill you reach the right hand hair pin that turns onto Phegans Bay road. Turn right here but park imediately on the left in a clearing at the top of the hill. Walk back across Woy Woy Bay road and past some crash barriers to find the obvious walking trail that leads off to your left. I you follow this trail for 5mins boulders will begin to appear on your left. The better ones are farther along near where the track winds close to the back of some houses. If you head up the hill to the bottom of the cliff line this is where the 'big dry cave' is located. The monkey cave is the small low cave to the left of the huge cave. The happy place is located high above the big dry cave on the upper cliff line and is quite tricky to find.

© (dazzla)

1.5.17. Woy Woy 282 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.485652, 151.303020

1.5.18. Wondabyne 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.497974, 151.252074

summary

Bolt-free bush cliffs

description

Wondabyne is a set of cliffs near the Wondabyne Train Station. Access to the cliffs is via train (Wondabyne Mainline and Wondabyne North) or boat (Wondabyne East).

approach

Train or boat

history

The cliffs in this areas were explored and developed in the late 70s by the prolific but long defunct Wondabyne Climbing Club.

1.5.19. The Bluffs 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -33.499914, 151.177874

1.5.20. Joll's Bridge 148 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.504773, 151.186622

description

Once "a crag of its time (90s) it was full of rusty carrots, mixed gear, choss and no lower offs" - until recently, (2010 onwards) when a big retro-bolting effort commenced. Spread out over a long broken cliff there are spectacular views over the Hawkesbury that almost make you forget the hum of the freeway. There are some good climbs hidden away. Online guides for this area are available through Sydney Rockies. The following descriptions are to update that information, as the area is slowly "modernised" by local climbers.

© (vlw)

approach

Heading north on the F3 you cross Jolls bridge and approx. 2.5km up the hill this there is an emergency bay (Emergency phone # 467) where you can reverse safely between two guard rails into a grassy area where there is room for 5 cars (As of April 2015 the parking area is in process of expansion).

From the parking an obvious path takes you 20m, crossing over a barbed wire fence to the cliff top with great view. From that lookout you can access the sectors.

Approach to separate sectors described in those sectors.

Alternatively park on the old Pacific 'Highway' as described in the SSS guide and walk under the bridge. Follow the guard rail until the stone cutting and this is the southern end of the crag.

© (vlw)

where to stay

No need to book into a motel or camp. Jolls is only a 40min drive north of Sydney

© (vlw)

ethic

There are a couple of mixed routes but the majority have been retrobolted to bring the crag into the 21st century. If it is still mixed gear, leave it like that!

© (vlw)

history

Initially discovered in 1990 by Wayne Anderson, he let the secret out to Paul Riviere. At the same time Andrew Powell and Phil Stallard (Wondabyne climbers Assoc) were scoping out the place. 10 years of development ensued through the 90's with many contributors putting up lines including Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey, John Wilde et al. The crag was largely forgotten in the first few years of the 21st cent, but has become once again since many routes have been retro-bolted with rings making it a good moderate sports crag.

© (vlw)

1.5.21. Hawkesbury Bridge Cliff 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -33.541210, 151.197184

description

As you drive south on the F3 freeway this is the obvious wall with a small orange cave on the right level with the freeway on right.

access issues

Climbing west of the Hawkesbury river bridge is forbidden. It is part of the muogmarra nature reserve

1.5.22. Blackwall 89 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.506458, 151.335646

summary

This is a pleasant small South facing summer crag with a few moderately graded classic sporty routes with the bonus of a glorious view over Broken Bay.

approach

Park at the end of Mullbong Road, Orange Grove, and take the well-defined walking track (the old billycart track as known when we were kids) on the left just past the last house, not the gated track! Walk uphill for about 200 metres where you will pass a large boulder in the middle of the track. Continue up, veering L up a steep track to a blocky outcrop of sandstone. From the platform you reach you can access the top of the cliff to the right or descend the tight squeeze to the cliff’s base. Follow the base of the cliff for access to Kit Kit wall, Red Head wall, Offspring wall, and Underworld. Underworld is 70m further L of Offspring Wall. It is an marked by a collapsed roof after-which is a great little 5mt long horizontal bouldering roof. If you ferret around there is another mini area on the lower tier with three mini-sport routes

history

Most of the routes at this crag were developed in 1996 in a frenzy by Richard Jeffrey. Several large boulders perched above the crag offer some good bouldering which was popularised by Gary Hamilton who developed most of the problems around 2000 - 2001. In 2015 the area has received some newer lines and rebolting to rejuvenate some great little lines on superb rock, albeit a bit damp at times.

1.5.23. Southern Cousin 44 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.518376, 151.193851

summary

A 15 minute drive from Wahroonga this crag offers climbs of varying grades and heights including a few mini multi pitches to get some practice in.

description

A series of small western facing crags just south of Joll's Bridge. This land has an access road leading to a number of Energy Australia power poles which can be seen from the freeway. Some climbs have extra bolts in them to help avoid decking out on mid climb ledges.

access issues

New approach as of 12/03/2023. Please do not park on the freeway shoulder anymore as it has now been confirmed as illegal. A climber recently had his car towed whilst climbing.

This land is accessed by Energy Australia so please don't block the locked gate on the freeway. This shoulder is also frequently used by trucks as a rest stop. It is illegal to stop on freeways.

approach

New access details. Quicker and easier to get into the crag, and avoids illegally parking on the freeway and having your car towed!

Coming from Sydney, exit at Hawkesbury river and head north along the old Pacific Highway towards Mooney Mooney. Park approx 300m south of Jolls Bridge where the eastern side of the road widens, or approx 250m north in the shade on the right hand bend. Walk back to Jolls Bridge and enter 35m north of the wooden crucifix. Entering further south may lead to multiple wasp stings, trust me on this!

Hike up to the bridge and head to its southern end. Walk through the evident corridor cut into the lantana, past the ants nest, and towards the prominent gum tree to find white tape. Note the old 44 gallon drum below which is good to use as a landmark on your way out. Turn left and pass the old tyre.

Walk along the top of the low wall, then along the base of the short cliff that has the low honey combed cave. Walk through the grass trees, continuing for approx 15m. Head up the hill towards the freeway to find Promiscuity sector of the crag.

history

Stumbled upon by Phil Stallard while looking for a location to paint the Hawkesbury River in 2017. Developed by Brendon Flanagan, John Hollott, Marty Middlebrook and Chante Fisk in 2018. Site of one active and one inactive geocache.

1.5.24. The Tanks 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -33.528794, 151.249233

1.5.25. Bouddi National Park 272 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.520404, 151.385415

access issues

Climbing is permitted under the 2020 plan of management. It is imperative climbers adhere to a code of conduct. Groups of more than eight people need a permit from the NPWS. https://acansw.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/code-of-conduct-2019.pdf

approach

Park well away from residential areas.

1.5.26. Umina 213 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.535490, 151.296762

description

A small but impressive little wall blessed with solid rock and a short stroll from the car. Generally the wall is vertical to slightly overhanging with the exception of the small roof below the 'Arete' in the centre. The wall is quite high in the centre with some of the problems having deceptively difficult top outs so a good spotter is recommended highly. A few projects remain to be done; however the wall to the right past the main wall has been left un climbed. All problems are top outs and are sure to get your pulse going.

Useful Info: Guide kindly provided by Dan da Silva.

© (pete_w)

approach

Find Mt Ettalong Road 'Umina' and follow this towards Patonga. Drive 3.5km past the Pearl Beach turn off until you come to quite a sharp left hand bend with a rocky out-crop on the corner (if you start heading down the steep road into Patonga, you've gone too far). Park on the left of the road, just after a telegraph pole where there is a large clear area for several cars.

Walk back towards the corner and head right into the bush near the second telegraph pole (you should be able to see the cliff line up on your right). Keep heading right when you come to the small cave, there is one project to be done here on the overlapping roof. Follow the broken cliff line for a short distance until you come to the obvious main wall with the central Arête feature.

© (pete_w)

1.5.27. Warrah Trig 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -33.552770, 151.289030

1.5.28. Brooklyn 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.548384, 151.212628

description

Brooklyn is a town on the Central Coast of New South Wales with a population of approximately 750 people. It lies just 56 kilometres north of Sydney's CBD.

approach

Brooklyn is easily accessible by car via the Pacific Highway or Pacific Motorway.

where to stay

The Brooklyn Motel provides accommodation for travellers.

1.5.29. Hominy 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -33.420093, 151.166018

summary

Great beginner crag! Short walk in, well bolted and lots to choose from in the easier grade ranges. Ring bolts with ring bolt anchors.

description

A small crag with a series of easier sport rotues, all kindly bolted. A flat sunny aspect and short routes makes this a good place for beginning leaders.

approach

Approach Popran rd from the north. 100m after you pass the Homnay creek bridge on Popran road a fire trail appears on the left. Park here out of the way. Vague trails start from popran rd about 10m south of the fire trail. Head diagonally right up the hill, passing some rock cairns, through the bush. Once you hit the cliff line head right (looking at the cliff) and you will find the crag. Routes are listed left to right.

ethic

This is National Park so follow standard rules.

1.5.30. Joe Pike's 40 Acres 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing and Sport climbing

1.5.31. The Skillion 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.450926, 151.450114

description

Only a few climbs here but fun and easy to get to. Not accessible in strong swells or high tide.

approach

Take the trail south of the skillion to the rock platform. The main boulder is beside the overhanging cliff on the left. The traverse boulder is in the middle of the rock platform.

1.5.32. Chapman's Hill 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.275109, 151.420653

summary

Boulder field surrounding the summit on Chapmans Hill, Wyong.

description

Boulder field with super easy access surrounding the summit on Chapmans Hill, Wyong. Some great easier grades and good potential for harder lines and highballs.

access issues

The gate to the carpark closes 1 hour after sunset and opens 1 hour after sunrise. Park below the gate and walk up if you plan on climbing late.

approach

Once you're in Wyong, Follow Crystal Crescent to the top of Chapman's Hill. You will pass through a gate (closes 1hr after sunset) and go past a water tower. Park in the Cul-de-sac. Walk through the sandstone blocks and follow the trail the same direction as the approach road (not the stair to the left). The first boulders are visible from the carpark and continue to wrap around the summit. All boulders are accessible with minimal scrambling.

ethic

Minimize impact and trace. Good idea to take some rubbish with you.

history

No known history.

1.5.33. Jilliby 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.252173, 151.371866

summary

Small scattered cliffline at the base of Olney State Forest

description

Small scattered cliffline at the base of Olney State Forest. Sandstone/conglomerate. Quite a lot of choss in some spots but there are good lines scattered throughout the area, and potential for a couple of sport routes. Be careful of Funnel-webs. They're very common here.

approach

Park at the intersection of Watagan Forest Drive, Watagan Forest Road, and Brothers Road. Walk down Brothers Road for 300m, turn left where you can see a boulder about 20m in and tramp up to the cliffline. Avoid using any used mountain bike tracks as approach trails.

history

No known history although I did find a random single Petzl bolt plate fixed onto the top of the larger cliff there. Possibly from someone scoping the rock out or abseiling.

1.6. Sydney Metropolitan 10,079 routes in Region

10 1 4 3 5 6 9 8 7 11 2 12

1 Hornsby and the North 2 Sutherland 3 North West 4 Northern Beaches 5 North Shore 6 Sydney CBD 7 Eastern Suburbs 8 Inner West 9 Western Suburbs 10 Colo River 11 South West 12 Royal National Park

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.803565, 151.103597

summary

Convenience, convenience, convenience!

description

What Sydney lacks in quality it makes up in quantity and convenience - very few large cities boast this much climbing and bouldering. And while the number of world class roped climbs is relatively low, many of the routes are well worth doing, and there is an abundance of high quality bouldering.

And with world-class destinations such as the Blue Mountains and Point Perpendicular close by, it's self evident that Sydney is one of the top climbing cities in the world.

1.6.1. Hornsby and the North 1,220 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.620101, 151.186843

1.6.2. Sutherland 1,542 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.025631, 151.086285

summary

The Shire has a long history of climbing. Accessible cliffs, routes you do not have to die for and a variety of locations keep the suburbanite climbers happy. Because of the not so steep nature of much of the sandstone in the area, a lot of routes are of a moderate grade making it a good place for new climbers to develop their craft.

description

Most of the climbing can be found on the rim of the hills, overlooking the Woronora River and Georges Rivers. The rock is the usual Sydney sandstone but the Cathedral has a a weird type of stone that is a refreshing change from the norm.

access issues

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

approach

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train.

history

Climbing has been going on since the 1960's in the Shire. Gossip has it that an old doctor used to play around the cliffs on the Woronora River in those early years. Joe Friend was also known to climb here back in the 1970's. You can find some old pitons, pin scars at odd locations such as the Heathcote Bridge, Menai area and at the Cathederal. It was common that Scouts and at times the Army regularly frequented places like Menai, Lucas Heights and Alfords Point.

The 1980's saw a steep rise in development with climbers from the Loftus Crew, Anthony Scharnbel,Damian Taylor and Bruce Stevens. A big influence in the 1980-1990's was David Barnes. Dave developed several new areas and put up scores of routes across the shire, including the classic routes at Rainbow Wall and Ruthless Babe and a handful of others at Heathcote. He has now moved onto Tassie. Mikl of course had flurries of activity at the Cathedral, Bonnett Bay and Heathcote when he was working with Homer Simpson at the Lucas Heights Nuclear facility. A Young Graham Fairburn made a good contribution to the Cathederal, before growing muscles at Nowra.

In the last ten years Jason Lammers has added new routes as well as re-bolting the old routes, lower offs and rings have been added to most shire crags now. What will you add? DB

1.6.3. North West 1,602 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.702487, 150.923131

1.6.4. Northern Beaches 1,349 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.700369, 151.281131

description

The Northern Beaches of Sydney include the suburbs of Manly, Pittwater and Wakehurst.

1.6.5. North Shore 2,091 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.775265, 151.355410

summary

Bouldering, lead and trad on good quality sandstone.

description

The North Shore has something on offer for all lovers of chalk and rock. There's the Old classic spots like the amazing highballs at Lindfield Rocks, Pumpy much loved problems of Sissy Crag and some brilliant trad at Brown's Road.

New to the Area is the Lindfield-like When Crags Collide, the diverse, unappreciated Blues Point and some Slab-tastic climbing at Harbour Side Slabs.

ethic

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

history

The North Shore has seen some amazing climbs and problems put up over time with a slump in its development during the early 2000s.

However that all changed with the turn of the decade seeing the start of the Great Bouldering Boom with the North Shore getting some much needed development attention by a group of enthusiastic lovers of rock.

The word on the street is that this attention will only increase as the years go by, making the North Shore a strong epicenter of climbing in Sydney

1.6.6. Sydney CBD 10 routes in Region

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.871885, 151.208830

1.6.7. Eastern Suburbs 785 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.921403, 151.235022

description

An amazing example of sea side crags opening up for people interested in all things rock. Top roping, lead climbing, trad, high lining and abseiling, the Eastern Suburbs has it all. During summer you and your friends will more than likely have mother nature put a show on for you with her wildlife. There's always a good chance of seeing whales, dolphins and other creatures. Clovelly is a prime location for this as well as Diamond Bay and Bondi. If you're interested in a little adrenalin rush then perhaps Rosa Gully is the place for you with several high line anchors in situ for those who dare!

Most crags have easy parking with only a short distance to walk, scramble or abseil into the crag.

1.6.8. Inner West 687 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.894303, 151.120027

description

Located close to Sydney CBD, offering an assortment of lead climbing, top roping and a plethora of bouldering.

Sydney's Inner West has a surprising amount of climbing for being so close to the city. Earlwood gets by far the most attention (and so it should) but new crags with good potential are being discovered every month.

This location offers everything from well protected and varied short routes in nice bush surroundings, to pumpy low caves and solid highballs with nasty landings by the water.

Being so close to Sydney, these areas are well worth a look in especially with Iron Cove offering several decent crags to boulder at.

Respect to the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the Inner West has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com

1.6.9. Western Suburbs 58 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -33.882194, 150.964272

1.6.10. Colo River 134 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.424283, 150.781707

description

A good collection of mixed crags with some nice sport areas and slab climbing. Provides a nice winter location close to Sydney.

Old school sport and Trad areas with a mix of carrots and fixed hangers. If developing make use of Trad placements where possible and if replacing bolts please respect the route as it is and replace bolt for bolt.

1.6.11. South West 489 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -33.933590, 150.789476

description

The neglected area of Sydney cragging, strange considering the quality of rock and recent finds like St helens Park bouldering, the big Junkyard Cave and the Hide Away.

In the 70's and 80's a bunch of routes were done at the Woolwash at the back of Airds near Campbelltown, short cracks and mossy slabs mostly done on top rope. A rough guide was done but it lacked details and descriptions.

In roughly 2011 and 2012 Byron Glover set to work on the quality rock and cave of the Wedderburn and St Helens Park bouldering areas finding some absolute gems in the process. Steep and pocketed on quality stone, V3 - V11, easy access, who wants more?

In 2012 Matt Brooks went looking for bouldering in the area after moving nearby and getting a copy of the then new Sydney climbing guide - south of the harbour.

He found the new sector to the Woolwash, the Junkyard Cave with its water polished sandstone and classy steep routes, some that would be quite at home in the Grampians (not in Suburban Sydney).

In early 2014 he also discovered the Hide Away another quality sandstone offering on the banks of the Georges River with a variety of sport routes from 12 - 28 and the 20m roof of the Ghetto Superstar.

With the amount of rock along the length of the Georges River there are sure to be more discoveries.

1.6.12. Royal National Park 112 routes in Field

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.129261, 151.064667

1.7. Illawarra and Shoalhaven 4,539 routes in Region

15 1 12 9 2 16 14 3 4 13 5 6 7 8 11 10

1 Appin 2 Wollongong 3 Bass Point 4 Kiama 5 Nowra 6 New Nowra - Braidwood Road 7 Point Perpendicular 8 Jervis Bay 9 Cataract Gorge 10 Crampton Island 11 The Castle 12 Bargo River 13 Kangaroo Valley River 14 Lee's Road 15 Maldon Bridge 16 Mac Pass Canyon

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.772557, 150.610345

summary

A major destination south of Sydney, centered mostly on the popular single pitch sport crags of Nowra and the epic sea cliffs of Point Perpendicular.

description

This is sandstone country. This is a large area with numerous crags. Up north you have the popular Mt Keira above Wollongong and the jungle adventures at Scarface and Coalcliff. Further south are the basalt quarrys at Bombo. The best climbing in the area however is around Nowra where sport climbing rules and convenience is key. Thousands of routes near shops, swimming and coffee. If you want to scare yourself then don't miss the world class sea cliffs of Point Perpendicular.

where to stay

Nowra and Wollongong have good caravan parks.

ethic

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

1.7.1. Appin 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.205569, 150.797798

1.7.2. Wollongong 872 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.373392, 150.853736

summary

Coastal mountain range sandstone climbing nestled in a wilderness area. Mostly single pitch with some longer multi-pitch adventures with spectacular exposure. Grades from beginners to expert.

description

The Wollongong area encompasses the Illawarra coastal region from Helensburgh down to Lake Illawarra. The region, which has a population of over 300,000, is a popular getaway from Sydney with excellent beaches and a range of outdoor activities including rock-climbing.

The majority of the rock-climbing is along the Illawarra escarpment mountain range, with spectacular views up and down the coast. The rock is all sandstone and varies in quality but the popular climbing areas are generally of a high quality. Sport, Trad, and Bouldering are all popular and accounted for, as well there are two indoor rock climbing gyms – the venerable Hangdog Climbing Gym and the newer Dynomite Bouldering.

Visitors to the area will find any number of routes to their taste, from the easy and super accessible 'Mount Keira West face'[12070333] single pitches to the more adventurous hard multi-pitch challenges off the spectacular escarpment cliffs.

access issues

Many of the Wollongong crags are located in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA). This region has had a chequered history in recent times, with large swathes of popular crags having to be closed after it was missed that a new NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) Plan of Management (PoM - 2018) had incidentally banned climbing along most of the escarpment. After a lobbying effort and a stroke of coincidental good luck an amended plan of management has been published (2023), modifying the plan to allow rock-climbing “… on the west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira and on cliffs north of Bulli Pass."

Access comes with caveats and all climbers should be aware that that “… new bolts or anchors may only be installed with NPWS consent, and park infrastructure such as safety railing may not be used as anchor points as they have not been designed for this purpose. NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points. Participants in these activities are solely responsible for their own safety.”

Given the pressures many rock-climbing areas have been under around Australia and the plethora of access issues that have followed it is imperative that climbers respect and heed the access requirements. Access granted can easily be access taken, noting from the PoM: “Locations where rock climbing and abseiling are allowed may be reviewed and altered to address safety issues, risks to visitors or impacts on cultural values or environmental values. Temporary closures of rock climbing and abseiling locations may be applied to limit impacts. Permanent closure of sites may also be necessary. NPWS will consult with representatives of the local climbing community before implementing any permanent closures.”

Please refer to the ‘Ethic” section for more notes on how to be a good steward for the climbing community.

approach

Wollongong is located on the East Coast about an hour South of Sydney, or 2.5 hours from Canberra. Road access around town and to most crags is good, although some areas require an amount of hiking to get in. Refer to sub-areas for details.

ethic

The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.

The following is a short summary for the area:

• The Wollongong area has a historical mix of sport, trad, and bouldering, with fully bolted sport routes emerging as the dominant form in the last decade
• Do not bolt or rebolt existing trad or bouldering routes
• No chipping of the rock to alter the difficulty of a route or create new routes. Loose or dangerous rock may be removed with careful discretion
• Top rope and lower-off through your own gear. Fixed anchor protection to be used for final lower off only to minimise wear
• Minimise excessive chalk usage and make brushing of holds a regular routine. Consider using alternative chalk colours to minimise visual impact
• Do not bush-bash new access trails, stick to existing marked trails where possible
• Do not remove vegetation, both from around cliff bases and on the cliff. Brushing down built-up lichen, dirt and chalk off existing routes is acceptable maintenance
• Do not leave rubbish or gear at the crag. Gear left may be confiscated by NPWS
• Respect any announced closures of tracks, cliffs and areas in the region
• Don’t play loud music at the crag, consider the amenity of nearby climbs and non-climbers alike
• Speak up against anti-social behaviour, unsafe behaviour, or other activities that threaten access – contact your local advocacy association - ACANSW
• Rebolting shall only be carried out by suitably competent and trained persons. The minimum standard is 316 stainless U-bolt or ring eye-bolts with pure epoxy glue. Refer to http://www.safercliffs.org
• Remember you are responsible for your own safety, and the safety of your friends!

Learn more at https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

1.7.3. Bass Point 13 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.599848, 150.896444

summary

Easy to moderate bouldering in a picturesque coastal location.

description

A small headland reserve south east of Shellharbour, home to popular swimming area Bushrangers Bay.

access issues

Bass Point is accessed via Bass Point Tourist Road, past the marina at Shell Cove. The road in beyond the gate is unsealed, but easily accessible for 2wd vehicles (with a little pothole dodging). The reserve is reportedly closed between 8pm and 6:30am daily.

Specific climbing access in the reserve is unknown, as there appears to be no info or reference made to any climbing development online, however it's safe to assume that climbing within the Bushrangers Bay Aquatic Reserve boundaries is not permitted. A map of the Bushrangers Bay Aquatic Reserve can be found here: https://trade.maps.arcgis.com/apps/instant/basic/index.html?appid=33cadd2706734397b31e4f4db466cf58

approach

Park in the carpark at the end of Bass Point Tourist Road, as for Bushrangers Bay. Instead of taking the stairs up to Bushrangers Bay, follow the track at the Southern end of the carpark, which tends right before leading down some concrete steps onto a large rock shelf. Turn right and make your way along the rocks to find the boulders.

ethic

Bass Point is a popular fishing, swimming and general recreational location. Be wary and respectful of other people in the area whilst climbing. Coastal headlands make up part of a fragile coastal ecosystem. It goes without saying but brush holds, ensure no litter is left at the crag, and try to minimise your impact on the rock and surroundings.

1.7.4. Kiama 141 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.663500, 150.859088

description

Volcanic sea cliffs surrounding the 'famous' tourist town of Kiama, south of Wollongong.

1.7.5. Nowra 1,464 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.885200, 150.543882

summary

The best sport climbing in the state. Sometimes ugly, but great climbing, with a huge variety of styles. Also home to some of the state's hardest bouldering.

description

Nowra is a fantastic sport climbing area, in quite a beautiful urban setting, with many of the crags sitting in valleys carved out by the Shoalhaven River. It is not unusual to park your car outside someone's house, then disappear into the bush, and 3 minutes later be at the crag. The climbing is characterised by being steep and powerful, there are not many pure endurance routes. While the climbing is not as visually inspiring as other areas in Australia, once you're on it's very good.

Nowra is a very comfortable place to climb, most crags require a five minute approach at the most. All routes are bolted with easy lower offs and the rock is generally very good. While Nowra doesn’t offer the casual café style that the Blue Mountains has, it is a good location for rest days, with reasonable surf only a short drive away. Nowra itself has all the amenities you would expect from a reasonably sized city.

For the beginner climber Nowra doesn't have a lot to offer, all the easier type climbs do tend to be the chossier ones, and there is very little below grade 18. For the intermediate to advanced climber however there is a lot of very good routes to do, especially if you climb 20+. The best crag in the area is Thompson's Point, it offers more climbing in a greater range of grades than any other Nowra crag. This is probably the best crag to visit if you are an intermediate climber. In the 18 to 24 range there is a plethora of really good routes, all well protected and ideal for pushing your grades on.

For the advanced climber there is loads of stuff to do. There are a lot of other crags apart from Thompson's, they are not quite so large and varied. The intermediate climber has to wander about a bit, but there are some real gems to be found. For the harder climber Nowra is a paradise of projects to do.

Apart from climbing there is also a lot of bouldering, a lot of hard stuff has been done at areas like Lot 33 and Cheesedale, with much more being developed.

All up Nowra is a great place to climb, what it lacks in presence, it makes up for in fun.

access issues

This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues.

approach

Three hours south of Sydney. It’s easy to get public transport to Nowra, once you are there many of the crags are in walking distance of each other. If you're staying at one of the parks opposite Thompson's Point it may be wise to hire a canoe to get across, which saves a long walk.

where to stay

It is possible to bush camp for free, but you want to have found a very secluded spot- climbers' cars have been broken into. The best option is to pay for camping at one of the parks opposite Thompson's Point.

ethic

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

1.7.6. New Nowra - Braidwood Road 984 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.013771, 150.413379

summary

Wilderness sport climbing at crowd free crags.

description

The climbing is mostly vertical sports climbing varying from 15 to 40+ meters high. Rock quality is 1st class Shoalhaven water carved sandstone, very similar to Thompsons Point.

history

Early development by Bullen and Hill in the 90s, but the majority of routes were established by local legand Rick Phillips and friends in the 2010s.

1.7.7. Point Perpendicular 778 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -35.040913, 150.805996

summary

Point Perpendicular is a beautiful seaside climbing area with a fantastic atmosphere and often incredible exposure.

description

Known as Bundarwa by Aboriginal people, the Beecroft Weapons Range Manages public access ( see below). The climbing guide has been re-structured to more closely align with the most recent (2011) guidebook by Robert Dun. The main difference being that the Upper and Lower cliff lines are grouped into common areas.

access issues

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range and is closed on most weekdays for live fire exercises. It is generally open only on weekends and during NSW school holidays, but even at these times access can be restricted due to crowding and the limited amount of car parking within the range. In peak season the entrance gates can therefore be closed for hours at a time until the range empties out again; at these times consider starting early to beat the rush. At all times of the year, it is best to ring the rangers to check accessibility before you go (02 4448 3411), to avoid the risk of being turned away.

If the range is closed you can always go to the Town Cliffs, accessed from Currarong.

approach

Very easy drive, bitumen to the entrance station at Currarong, then 10km of dirt to the Lighthouse. Then a very easy walk, only 2-5 minutes walk for the main sectors.

where to stay

There is car camping at Honeymoon Bay with toilets but no water. This is inside the navy weapons range and signposted on the drive-in track. It's only open Friday and Saturday nights, plus Sunday nights during NSW long weekends and all week during NSW school holidays. During school holidays it can be full with family holidaymakers; you'll need to book a long way in advance.

You can also stay at a caravan park at Currarong or Callala.

ethic

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and some routes require you to bring up to a dozen keyhole hangers.

1.7.8. Jervis Bay 126 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.121889, 150.711373

description

Southern head of Jervis Bay. Sea side bouldering. Some of the crags are in Booderee National Park.

1.7.9. Cataract Gorge 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -34.245231, 150.778359

1.7.10. Crampton Island 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.444599, 150.413980

summary

Bouldering on the sea washed boulders of Crampton Island near Lake Tabourie.

description

A spot for the desperate pebble wrestler on their Summer holidays on the crag starved coast south of Nowra. Crampton Island is a tidal island accessible by a short walk from the township of Lake Tabourie.

access issues

Crampton island itself is part of the relatively new Meroo National Park however according to the map of the park in the Plan of Management the northern rock shelf is excluded from the park bringing it under the control of Shoalhaven City Council. This is the area which is currently being explored and developed however there is potential further around the island so hopefully climbing is included in the next update of the plan of management making climbing permissable on all parts of the island.

From a practical side of things as stated this is a tidal island which means that a bit of planning needs to go in to deciding when you head out there. It would suck to get there at High tide and not be able to get out to the island... It would suck more to get out there and then get stuck until the next low tide... It would suck even more if the next low tide isn't until some time after midnight.

approach

From the carpark at the end of Beach Rd Lake Tabourie follow the beach access track and boardwalk beside the lake to its end from the beach walk on the sand out to the obvious island. Pay attention to the tides to make sure you can get out there and don't get stuck. Head north around the island to the obvious rock shelf and scattered boulders.

where to stay

Camping in nearby National Parks and State Forests. Multiple holiday rentals in Lake Tabourie itself. Holiday Haven Lake Tabourie Caravan Park.

ethic

On the north side bouldering is the only option. All other sea cliffs on the island are currently within the zone of a National Park that does not include climbing in its plan of management.

history

The original developers only holiday at Lake Tabourie biannually so unless others do some exploring it's likely additional routes won't be added until January 2025.

1.7.11. The Castle 0 routes in Crag

description

Boulder fields on the middle plateau of The Castle.

access issues

Morton National Park

1.7.12. Bargo River 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.239120, 150.607622

summary

Enormous number of boulders along Mermaid Pool / Tahmoor Gorge walking track. Go for a walk, see what tickles your fancy.

approach

Follow your nose.

1.7.13. Kangaroo Valley River 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -34.727308, 150.521180

summary

Small Riverside DWS Crag

description

A short wall right in Kangaroo Valley town with a bunch of options on the wall beyond the one line listed. Great spot for a dry warm day in summer.

approach

Park in town and make your way down to the park on the eastern side of the Hampden Bridge by the water.

Either swim or paddle across the river, get dropped on the base of the wall and send!

where to stay

There's a caravan park 150m down the river from the wall, and some other hotels around in town

1.7.14. Lee's Road 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Rock climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: -34.597675, 150.676655

description

Raw, untamed climbing on the beautiful Illawarra Escarpment.

approach

Head East from Robertson down Lee's Road. After 1.3km on Lee's Road you will enter a section of the Budderoo National Park and there is a track turnout left to a small fenced lookout. Walk approximately 100m left along the cliff line to reach an abseil area.

descent notes

100m left from the lookout there is evidence of an old rappel area (2 studs). Suggest using one of the two large trees for a rappel down (60m).

Whilst climbing out of the cliff is possible a trad rack is required and rock quality, especially on the descent route, is mixed. If unsure, leave your rappel line fixed and be prepared to ascend it.

history

Rod & Sue Young approx 1989

1.7.15. Maldon Bridge 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -34.201952, 150.632578

summary

Plenty of rock on both sides of the river near the old abandoned Maldon Bridge.

description

Climbing on both sides of the river. North side: A cutting on the now abandoned north side of Maldon Bridge Rd. Its a small crag (approx 8m in height) with super easy access & 5 min walk down to the Nepean River for a quick cool off in summer. Maldon weir (spillway slide) is also located just 250m upstream. South side: scattered boulders.

approach

Park at locked gate at end of Wilton Park Rd. Walk down road towards old bridge.

The Weir Boulders can be accessed from a scramble down the hillside off the road (when the weir comes into view).

The Main Cave and Environs can be accessed heading down the road to the bridge where there is a footpath (rightside). Head down this then find path of least resistance heading off right (easterly direction) towards the river. The cave is where the river bends towards the south.

There is plenty of rock on the north side of the river (including the cutting), which can be accessed by crossing the river. Potential access from Maldon Bridge Rd depending on activity of the quarry?

1.7.16. Mac Pass Canyon 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -34.571958, 150.664995

summary

Some bouldering in the the Mac Pass canyon. Stand out climb is the deep water solo.

access issues

The track from the bottom of Mac Pass is currently closed

approach

Two options. If open, the regular track from Mac pass gets you there. Otherwise there's a track slightly down the road from Clover Hill Rd. Normally used when exiting the Mac Pass canyon so likely tricky to find.

1.7.17. Gorge Of Eden 98 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

ethic

All the boulders on this crag finish by topping out.

No random arbitrary finishes halfway up the wall.

1.8. South Coast 407 routes in Field

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 9 23 11 12 13 15 14 16 17 18 19 25 20 24 21 22

1 North Durras Caves 2 Emily Miller Beach 3 Guerilla Bay 4 Bimbimbie 5 Moruya South Head 6 Bingie 7 Whale Beach 8 Bodalla 9 Tuross gorge 10 Tuross Gorge Access Road 11 Gulaga East Face 12 Tilba 13 Animal Docks 14 Birthday Bluffs 15 Brogo Dam 16 Biamanga Pools 17 Mimosa Rocks National Park 18 Tathra 19 Wallagoot Gap 20 Tura Head 21 Beowa National Park 22 Nadgee 23 Narooma Fitness Centre 24 Wog Supercrag 25 Cookie Cliffs

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.416379, 149.988860

summary

Climbing a long way from anywhere.

© (nmonteith)

description

A variety of climbing styles can be found throughout the south coast of NSW. With it's abundance of small towns and amazing beaches and a variety of other outdoor activities within the region it's a holiday paradise, but with plenty of routes and problems still yet to be discovered too!

Beowa National Park at the southern end of the NSW coast offers the main route (trad) climbing area, which is on quality sandstone. This NP also hosts the Light to Light multi-day walk.

A number of bouldering options are available, with these mainly located on rocky headlands along the coast where they are easily seen and accessed. Rock type and quality varies significantly from location to location and even within metres, so have a keen eye and nose if you are hunting for fresh boulders.

This area was ravaged by the 2019 Bushfires, so come with no supplies and spend up in the small towns where they really need it.

© (nmonteith)

access issues

A lot of rock, a lot of private land, and a lot of bush.

© (nmonteith)

approach

4 - 6 hours south of Sydney, or about 6 hours from Melbourne. Easily accessible from Canberra within a few hours.

© (nmonteith)

where to stay

Any of the small towns offer Airbnb's, camping and other various accommodation types, most of them by the beach. Avoid staying at the crags as most are on private land or in a position to upset locals.

© (nmonteith)

history

Crags were first found in the region and began development in the early 1990's with a slow but consistent rate of discovery by many different people throughout the years.

© (nmonteith)

1.8.1. North Durras Caves 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.634404, 150.313764

description

Sandstone cliffs around the caves on the Durras North beach. Be careful when climbing as the sandstone is really crumbly.

approach

Can be approached from the beach access or from along the beach. For beach access; When Driving along the Durras road, just after Depot beach turn off there is two car parks on the left hand side of the road. At the second car park there is a path that leads to a set of stairs, when you get to the bottom of the stairs, turn right and follow the edge of the beach until you get to the cave. For beach access; follow the beach towards Point Upright until you get to the cave.

history

Climbing started here in early 2019 by a family who didn't want to go to Nowra and drove to their local beach and found a slab of rock to climb.

1.8.2. Emily Miller Beach 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.673496, 150.301879

summary

Amazing beachside climbing

description

Pretty beachside climbing on a quiet beach with a selection of good problems with more that could be created by linking a few together

access issues

Located within National Park so due care needs to be taken in regards to this. No marking of climbs, be friendly to rangers, clean up any area you go to etc.

approach

Drive to Murramarang Beachfront Nature Resort and then go through the bush track on the right (you can drive or walk this bit.) You then follow the signs to Emily Miller Beach (don't get this confused with Emily Miller Point.) Once there go down to the beach and depending on the boulder it may be on the next beach.

where to stay

You can stay at Murramarang resort (camping or in a Villa) or you could stay anywhere in Batemans Bay or areas nearby.

ethic

Some of the rocks are thin and may snap off, be cautious when climbing to minimise this.

1.8.3. Guerilla Bay 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -35.824960, 150.226986

summary

Small beachside bouldering on a unique little islet.

description

Large outcrop of rock just a short walk off the beach. Has a few boulder problems scattered across it and could be setup for top-roping with natural pro anchors.

A lot of the rock slopes pointing to the east at the top, so anything steeper is on the east face, but often means you'll end up getting wet if you fall which can be straight into the churning ocean.

access issues

Unable to find information on the outcrop itself, would not recommend placing any bolts (nor would it be necessary). Locals were around when first visited and didn't seem to care about people on the rocks.

approach

Turn off George Bass Road into Burri Point Rd following it down and taking the left onto Beach Parade Rd, you'll see an old wooden sign on the left hand side of the road pointing down a short road to the beach. Make sure not to park in front of the turn around point.

Instantly seen from the carpark, walk across the 20m spit connecting to the islet.

May not be accessible during high tide. Wade through thigh deep water to get to it on fairly flat ground and over some rocks.

where to stay

No camping here, but options not far away in caravan parks, airbnb etc

history

Nick Murphy decided to check it out in early 2020, though very likely others have looked here before

1.8.4. Bimbimbie 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.825620, 150.079190

summary

Bimbimbie is located in the Mogo State Forest.

description

Scattered, short granite boulders (3-8 metres high).

approach

Turn off Princess Highway at Milsons Road. Follow to junction of Bimbimbie and Cpt187/1 Road. 2 wheel drive okay to this point. Probably need a 4x4 beyond this point. GPS coordinates for Phoenix Crag/Princess Leah -35.8259558,150.0829297

ethic

Trad and bouldering only. No bolts.

history

Local Congo legends led the way on this one.

1.8.5. Moruya South Head 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.908657, 150.161416

description

A small bouldering spot on the South Headland.

Can be affected by high tides so be careful. Also be careful with pad placements as there's a ledge at the base of the majority of the climbs that can make falls difficult

approach

Head east at the roundabout in South Moruya on South Head Road. Follow all the way to the end and take a left onto Charles Moffitt Drive. Follow this around and turn left up the hill onto Coronation Drive and then go right onto Elizabeth St and go immediately right out towards the headland and park at the lookout point/cemetary.

Go left of the fence (you can look down onto the bouldering wall from the lookout) and follow the fishermans track down to the cliff line below. You'll see the area over to the right down a small scramble. 2 min walk in, be careful on the steep track down.

Not really accessible by public transport or walking from town.

history

Developed in January 2015 by Nick Murphy. Only several problems sent with potential for more

1.8.6. Bingie 98 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.005852, 150.160176

1.8.7. Whale Beach 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.051490, 150.141348

description

A very small crag right on the water in Tuross Heads.

approach

Park near 27 Tuross Blvd and walk down to the obvious high boulders just south of the main beach. 1 min walk in.

history

Developed in Dec 2014 by Nick Murphy. Could've had previous ascents simply because of it's prominence but nothing marked or recorded.

1.8.8. Bodalla 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.131257, 150.087707

description

A few boulders just off the highway, that may have some potential

1.8.9. Tuross gorge 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.215561, 149.555400

description

See the Tuross Falls Climbing guide hosted by Canberra Climbing Association

access issues

Seems to be in the National park, rather than Wadbilliga State Forest, apparently the rangers are/have been friendly

1.8.10. Tuross Gorge Access Road 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.197233, 149.516737

summary

High quality granite boulders across various locations along the Tuross Gorge access road. Lots of development to go on and flakes to pull off. Be careful.

description

High quality granite boulders across various locations along the Tuross Gorge access road. Lots of development to go on and flakes to pull off. Be careful.

access issues

Nil

approach

Short walk-ins to various locations along the road.

ethic

No chipping of holds. Trad gear to be used on longer routes where possible.

1.8.11. Gulaga East Face 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: -36.286697, 150.037372

summary

An area on the east side of Gulaga (Mt Dromedary).

description

High in the hillside are a number of prominent but well hidden cliffs, boulders and waterfalls that all look promising. An excellent granite cliff/ waterfall sits at the entrance to a cultish farm called 'Never Never'.

access issues

Gulaga and some of its rock formations are sacred to the indigenous community of the area. The rock tors at the top of Gulaga are NOT to be climbed. Permission should be sought for areas where one is unsure of its cultural status.

Although most of Gulaga lies in national park, a large amount of the forest is private property. Best to keep that in mind when searching for new crags.

approach

Follow google maps onto Mount Dromedary Trail. Drive up the trail across two (shallow and concreted) river crossings and up the side of the mountain until the road forks into three. The left option is towards a gated residence called 'Never Never', the right is also gated.

Park your car on the grassy patch on the left side, next to the big gate. Walk up the middle road (Mt Dromedary Trail) for approx 50 metres or less until the road bends to the left and you see a faint walking trail off to the right.

Follow this walking trail up and to the right and you will arrive at the top of the granite crag. There will be a small dam to your left and some water pipes.

Access to the bottom of the crag is via a 35m rappel from the water pipes.

where to stay

Tilba is a cute village and the pub is lovely.

ethic

This area not only is full of lovely finger cracks and off widths, but has one of the nicest top rope set ups you'll find, with a huge metal water pipe running directly above the cliff. As such, no bolting is allowed.

Additionally, due to the area's situation within an area of great cultural significance to the aboriginal community, damaging the rock in any way is not tolerated.

history

Mark Shorter and Mike Masters scouted and first climbed this area in 2020.

1.8.12. Tilba 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.317865, 150.072772

summary

Two yet to be climbed near roadside crags near Central Tilba

description

Visible from the Princes Highway on both the eastern and western side are two granite looking outcrops of rock with good height and a variety of aspects and profiles that could present a small wonderland of route potential to those who make the journey there.

access issues

Both locations require crossing private land so owners must be contacted to seek permission before entering.

approach

Potential 1; Najanuga (Little Dromedary Mountain). See track notes at link; hikingtheworld.blog/2016/01/16/little-dromedary-najanuga/

Potential 2; Access is still being confirmed as it will be necessary to pass through private land.

where to stay

Central Tilba has a variety of options, as well as nearby beach stays are available.

1.8.13. Animal Docks 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.377081, 150.080623

summary

Seaside bouldering and a few routes near some iconic and well photographed rocks

description

Climbing right near the heavily photographed Horse Head Rock and Camel Rock. A few free standing boulders on the beach as well as some of the cliffs surrounding them offering a lot of potential on decent schist rock.

access issues

Not recommended to climb on either of the prominent tourist attractions here as that would likely just be bad press, as well they don't have the rock quality the others do and both are surrounded by water at most times.

approach

Park at the Camel Rock Beach Carpark, walk down onto the sand and head north and you'll immediately see Camel Rock and other boulders about.

Continue north past Camel Rock and you'll eventually come to Horse Head Rock which is about the limit of the climbing here. May require some scrambling to get to Horse Head depending on the tides. Anything further north is complete choss.

where to stay

3 Caravan parks very nearby, the nearest has a brewery attached, the Camel Rock Brewery and Restaurant

ethic

No Bolting (as this will attract unwanted attention) Don't chip or modify holds, brush off your chalk and tick marks, be polite to tourists, don't climb on Horse Head Rock or Camel Rock, take any rubbish of yours or you find out with you.

history

Nick Murphy was probably not the first to come by here and climb anything, though haven't been able to find anything elsewhere talking about this area.

1.8.14. Birthday Bluffs 0 routes in Crag

description

On the west side of Mumbulla mountain, visible from the highway are several prominent bluffs that look promising.

access issues

Located within Biamanga National Park

approach

Likely by driving to the end of Stevensons Lane is the best way to access the crags. May require crossing private property so seek permission first.

where to stay

Very near to the large town of Bega which has plenty of options

history

I've heard rumors that these were called Birthday Bluffs, and had been climbed at some point prior to the 80s, but have found no further information

1.8.15. Brogo Dam 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -36.488743, 149.723181

summary

Along the shores of Brogo Dam are a number of potential DWS routes, including a known boulder called 'Indian Head'. Further above the dam are some potential short (~10-15m) sport routes.

description

Rhyolite cliffs and boulders

access issues

Access to the routes is most likely via canoe along the Brogo Dam. Access to some areas may be possible via 4wd tracks, particularly Brogo Firetrail. Canoes can be hired at Brogo Wilderness Canoes and launched from the boat ramp.

approach

Paddle about 1km along the left side of the Brogo Dam until you come to the second major inlet on the left (Nelson Creek). Boulder and cliffs to the left above the shoreline.

ethic

The area is located within National Park, and permission to bolt routes has not been sought as yet. Until discussions with NSW Parks takes place, bolting should not be undertaken. No chipping. Additionally, try to brush off chalk once you are done climbing, as this area is a popular sightseeing location.

history

Many people have thought about climbing this area, and it's highly likely that someone has done so in the past. Tim Hall attempted the first (unsuccessful) attempt of the DWS boulder on Boxing Day 2020.

1.8.16. Biamanga Pools 0 routes in Area

description

https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/picnic-areas/biamanga-cultural-area

access issues

Located within Biamanga National Park.

The Aboriginal custodians request that visitors, through respect, do not swim in the Mumbulla Falls area - a site that is sacred to the Yuin People.

1.8.17. Mimosa Rocks National Park 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.582363, 150.041784

description

Coastal boulders and short cliffs. Rock quality is variable

1.8.18. Tathra 21 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.731423, 149.988071

summary

A number of small boulders and cliffs on the rocks next to the ocean in Tathra.

description

Easy access climbing on solid rock.

approach

All parking is on Bega St in Tathra. Areas are 5-10 minutes walk.

1.8.19. Wallagoot Gap 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -36.787256, 149.962569

summary

A good little Deepwater Solo spot in a beautiful location.

description

An 8 metre tall DWS cliff over a small inlet. It probably is safest on the higher tides, but is definitely deep enough anyways.

approach

Drive to Wallagoot Gap car park, and then follow the well defined track 200 metres to Wallagoot Gap (well signposted).

All the climbing is on the right side (very obvious).

where to stay

Bournda National Park has a few good campsites.

ethic

Try not to chalk up the cliffs as it's a fairly popular tourist location.

history

The history of this crag stretches back to the Mesozoic era, when triceratops used to use it as a training crag during the hot summers.

1.8.20. Tura Head 58 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.854280, 149.947438

summary

Sea cliff climbing and bouldering on hard volcanic rock.

description

Easy to access crag with a variety of styles, bouldering, trad lines and sport routes, with plenty still to be developed.

access issues

Unknown currently, looks to be on public land as there's a walking track here with a lookout and natural rock pool at the end of the headland.

approach

Park in the carpark just off Headland Dr and then follow the walking track heading east from here. Follow the main track without taking any of the side tracks and you'll reach the end of the headland.

where to stay

Plenty of options within Merimbula, Tura Head or Tathra. Don't camp at the crag!

history

Jaime Mesias had found pre-existing bolts from someone in 2019. Few routes added by Nick Murphy on an exploratory look in 2020.