Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

6m R. The cool-looking overhanging mini-corner-seam. Very bouldery and difficulty might be a bit height dependent? 6 FH’s to anchor. A grade or 2 harder now after broken holds **

The line 10m R which blasts straight up the guts of the steepness. U-bolt, then 6 FH’s up the 45 degree overhung wall to an incredible finish with one of the best holds I’ve ever seen on the finishing ledge. Classic.

2m R. More steepness with some very big moves and a challenging and spectacular finale past the break. Was impressively onsighted in its original form but has since shed a major hold down low and is a bit harder. It has now shed a lot more holds and it will need some work before it is solid again

5m R. Scramble up to high first bolt on far right of the choss ledge. A few bolts lead up and R (slab) until it kicks back. A long move to a flake begins the steep climbing. A pronounced crux lunge (stopper bloc?) leaves you with the last victory move to finishing jug.

The two-legged dragon with barbed tail, often seen as a symbol of strength and endurance. 10m R. Starts roughly in the middle of the wall, under the steepest looking section up high. Stickclip the first bolt for the tricky start, then it backs off for quite some time. At the point it becomes overhanging and you’ll jug haul through to a welcome camp in a cave where you can take your shoes off and ponder the view (24 to here?). From here, it’s all business pulling through the lip and into the superb stone of the 45 degree, powerful overhanging finale where you’ll either have some arms left, or not. 19 FH’s (long draws) to lower-off. Lowering off the top requires 80m rope. When it comes to cleaning, do it in two halves (chain+biner in cave).

The giant tree. Tricky slab start, then onwards past lots of climbing and rests to get established in a rest below the punchy final overhang. Hard to read moves. Solid.

Closed. 5m R of Garm at black corner crack. The rippled top arete is amazing with a heartbreaker finale! Take a handful of 1m slings to reduce drag. At least 20 clips.

Up past a few bolts to perch beneath roof overlap. Inventive moves to get over this before stepping right to encounter balancy Frog Buttress-style face climbing to the top.

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.

Start in Back of cave, out through 5m roof to gain headwall and up.

The thin face and arete was a long-standing project. Fingery and technical. A long reach and a cold day may make it feel easier.

Start on obvious jug above the end of the large boulder. Thug your way past the steep, blank barrier to rejoin Thunder vision at it's crux.

Want to know what the moves on a 27 feel like? Well you can try just about all of the hard moves right of the big boulder! Starts as for Event Horizon but heads right over the boulder. Needs a few more bolts to get to the lip of the cave. Absolute sickness!

Start as for arty project, traverse right on hangers then up steep wall tending rightish. Don't forget to breath! The loss of a good hold high up has made this harder.

Start as for Pulmonary Vacuum but break right after first bulge continuing to the anchors on Isometrics via hard block.

The big roof at the left end of the crag is steep and powerful. Stick-clip the first bolt(s) then boulder up to the roof, out the flake, and round the lip. Up headwall more easily to chains. Classic!

A roof boulder problem down and right from the routes. Start near the wall and traverse out the rail to the jug.

The line of bolts left of Eat This G-Man. Steep And Powerfull

The right hand of the two bolted routes, about 12 m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Cam and 3 bolts.

Compression banger! Sit start with arete and slot, squeeze the juice up to the top.

The middle of the wall with the funky features. Start at the right side of the platform. Straight up the wall staying to the right finishing almost on the arete!

The corner in the middle of wall to thin face moves

Diagonally right through slight cave and straight up (crux) to the second set of lower offs. Rebolted & Extension added 2004 - Wilde/Jefferson

Climb 5/6 of Haasnoot been done, then go across left and up staying on good clean rock. Long quick draw length required around the corner and for the last bolt runner of Haasnoot been done.

Start in the back of the cave, out to rooflet and up via interesting holds to the sting in the tail and double bolt anchor.

An endurance resistance monster! Climb "Pull ya Plonka" then continue along the massive overhang to finish 5m left of the black leg anchors. Take long draws and about 4x 600mm slings

Legless miner, continuing into COH

Prob the longest route in the cave. Sent in classic Jase style with about 25 knee bars, maybe a few less for regular folks! Start by climbing Flesh Gording, then keep traversing left past anchors of Long Wall Mining and Sugar Monster, going all the way out to the lip (day light) of the whole cave. Be careful, there is a lot of bird guano and dust up towards the end and some lose rock.

Climb Trotter's Trifecta 2 to anchors, then keep traversing out right pinching and kneebar to anchors at lip of cave.

Climb the hanging prow to finish on Pinching Pigeons. Batman to first ring then head out on the pockets to a big dyno.

Start below burnt out stump, up the thin steep wall past 5 fixed hangers.

Thin climbing to finish right of the large stag horn. Some interesting small and slopey holds.

Start as for One Crow on jugs and traverse left as for DND. Where Dontolleo goes up, keep going left towards arete. Burly move guards link to arete. Climb up arete a little to big jug. Down climb over left to get off

Proudest line of the crag! Sit start deep in centre of cave, on reddish coloured rock. Follow rail of jugs out to good sloper at lip, on the bottom of the small vertical face. Gain the horizontal break, reach up to obvious sidepull, then blast your way out the final roof to an exciting topout. Hard final moves.

Sit start low and left on obvious jug, move up and right through features to pocket. Continue right into crimps in dish, big moves up and right then mantle. Probably done a while ago.

Climb the right arete.

As for FC then keep thrutching past the chockstone and up into daylight without stemming on the other side.

Okish crimps, meh footers, dyno to sloper lip

Stack a pad and sit start on the lowest point of the big rail, continue as per Vulcanology

Another 10m towards the creek on your right is a short boulder.

Start on the same juggy hold as for Bus Driver. Low traverse of smooth slopers and ledges to the right. When you hit the end jug or sloper (further right), head up through a micro-crimp/crystally top out.

Start as for Gymnastic and traverse left to the start hold of Thing and keep going left low and make long move left to seem then finish up on the big easy slopers. Probably been done before.

Nice and tall arete just east of catacomb roof 30m. Not sure of the name either. Grade should be close.

Start as for Spiderskin, but climb the obvious feature to the left where it ends. Then a very long reach to the left onto an slopey sidepull, then up to edge and then mantel finish.

Climb the tall overhanging arete from a sit start.

Water level needs to be fairly low. Fantastic juggy start then progressively harder through the face, a big dyno, then probably head left up the arete.

A power-endurance fest. Start: As for L.A. - clip first bolt from the block. Pump up to the jug on Trapeze then reverse this to the second bolt on R.G.M. Finish as for this route.

Directly below the left end of the Black Dog Wall.

Nice slightly overhanging boulder that faces the Black Dog Wall.

Sit start the crack with a high right foot and make your way powerfully to the lip and head right and mantel.

Start about 2m from the left end, just right of the wasps (which are not aggressive). Up through the horizontal breaks, then through the technical face past 2 hangers.

The outrageous roof crack so steep you climb downwards.

Start: Traverse in from the left or climb 'Foreplay' then reset anchor at the back of the roof.

Through offwidth crack which slowly tapers all the way down to nothing before opening up again and then up the headwall.

Start: The second line of bolts.

Up to the second bolt then break out left past more bolts to lower off seventh bolt over lip.

Excellent finger crack to DBB at top of cliff. Mostly finger-sized gear, but some big cams (#4+) are essential to protect the first hard moves. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kandk/4117216050/in/photostream/

5 bolts to twin rings. Stick clip first two and start in corner. Get a good belayer, you don't want loads of slack here. The bloc behind is out.

Technical climbing to a heart breaking crux finish. In summer, climb in the evening.

Sit down start then up arete

Overhung arête, awesome. Start with right hand on low crimp and left on blocky feature above.

Pull on as for Rasengan, matched on the sidepull. Go direct up through the vague scoop then on up poor slopers.

Hard first move, then follow rail to top out, has been done as a jump start problem

Perfect letterbox start to hard crimping

Do the Jeff's Traverse and Candy For Jeff.

Start on sidepull to the left of arete then up to finish on ramp

Sit start to Ace of Spades.

Heads right from start hold

Long sequence of technical moves to top (Not!)

Defiant Mantle

On the back side of boulder (uphill side) there is a steeper face. Stand start in the middle on lowest crimp rails and tough moves to gain big RH side pull then lip to mantle

In welsh means "sloping lands", and is the name of a local river. funnily enough originates from Gwynedd where i was last working. Basically, poorly protected first moves gets you to a piton, then the crux.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638935338/

Crouch start and up the arete on the right side.

Stand start on left pinch and right crimp. Desperately follow the seam up onto the slab. Grade unknown. Somewhere between V5 and V9.

Awesome problem on amazing holds. Sit start on jug and climb diagonally up and right via the series of crystal pockets and crazy body contortions. An easier V4 variant sit starts with left hand in first pocket and right on a low crimp.

Abseil down from tree with sling at top of dome down about 15m towards dead tree. Look for 2 bolt anchor with rings beside tree on small ledge. Abseil again from anchor 20m to slab.

Route takes the orange vertical face on thin crimps to a slight bulge with incipient seam through it. Once through bulge angle eases to anchor.

No bolts are in place yet, just the anchor.

Through break the up thin crimps to left dyno

Sit start low on the flake, follow flake to a tough final slope. A stand start variant can be done at V6.

Hard moves up steep ground on small holds,

Shared start with Write to me and escape but move out right after the drop down move, topping out in the middle of the face.

Bring lots of pads to cover the death pit below the topout.

Mauricio Chino Stephen Rawls

Stand start R/H on flat edge, L/H wide on high sidepull flake, bump R/H to arrow head pinch feature before tricky heel or toe to gain high R/H gaston, gain the jug break then out to lip and mantle

Climb 97% mitch free, but move left to the small cave on the steep wall. Head straight up from here to lower offs at very top!

Weird and wandery (with some interesting rope-management challenges) but tackles some nutty terrain on the best rock here.

Start as for Rehabilitation, but instead truck left for days to a cave-rest. Then switch gears and throw yourself at the power-endurance headwall, moving left at the last bolt to climb the arete on its right side to gain the anchors.

At the front left side of the cavelet, standing start with left hand in thin deep slot on the face and right hand undercling on tiny edge under lip. Move out right to good slopey edge then up to left crease. Move up from sloper on the buldge to good hold, gain the lip before sketchy mantle just right of the plant over arete.

Same matched start as Bec De Corbin but instead of moving right from the flake, move left and up to mantel just to the right of Ōdachi.

Sit start at the sandy slopers at the edge of the right hand side of the cave, move up and left through large pockets before dropping into an undercling and sloper on the lip. From here slap up to the top of the boulder to top out.

Sit start on the right hand side of the boulder with left hand on pocket under the arete and left hand on crimpy pinch. move up and left to top out as for Tàijí Quán.

Hard to grade, need a second opinion but somewhere between V6 and 8.

Sit start matched on large incut slopey sidepull. Pull up into large slot jug then straight up. Top out.

Low sit start, up the right side of the bikini feature to finish on the half way break. Topout still not linked?

Sit start on the bottom corner of he arete and follow slopes and shallow pockets on the right hand of the arete. Slam the top slopes and commit to the scary top out. Classic

Sit start on the lowest lip hold at the little cavelet before the arete. Bust up left to a crimp rail, and start trending up and right before a slabby/layback style top out. Keeping on the face of the boulder until the end. (Starting mega jugs of the arete problem are out)

Start as the ming Dynasty to the big jug, then drop down and traverse low to the good slopey rail on Jade emperor, match it then finish as for that problem. All the higher holds above the line of the good slopey rail are off

Climb “Rigor Mortis” into “The Golden Pinch” .

As for Dead bolt but from the feature on the face move left to the bad slopers under the block (avoids the good break farther right). Top out around the left side of the block.

Start: Sit start "matched" on the farthest left hand end of the big low rail

Start: Sit start as for 'dead bolt' and climb up into the pocket roof then move right across the buldge below the top ledge and into the next little cave to finish up hydraulic.