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Dreaming Stairs

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Summary

Under development.

Access issues inherited from Bingie Bingie

None known of.

Approach

From the Bingie Bingie parking area, take the right (south) track (keeping the Bingi Bingi infrmation sign on your left). Take the right fork after 50m (the left goes back to Bingie Point). After 200m you will reach a grassy clearing. Aim for the seat you see in the distance. The Bingie Dreaming Track joins the clearing on the right about 300m from the carpark. Just after the seat (about 500m from the carpark) follow the track sign left down the stairs to the beach. Snore Wall is to the right at the bottom of the stairs. Take your bearings from here.

Ethic inherited from Bingie Bingie

PLEASE WASH OFF CHALK MARKS! This is a culturally sensitive area. Leave no other trace (no bolting, carry out rubbish, don't brush off the lichen, etc).

History

History timeline chart

Developed by Adrian Ridgley starting April 2024. May have been climbed on before.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the slabby to vertical south facing wall at the bottom of the Dreaming Track stairs. The rock quality isn't as good as most of the Bingie Bingie area so take care. There is further potential on the lichenous wall left of Don't Worry See Pappy, but this would require brushing, which may not be compatable with the cultural heritage of the area. Problems are described right to left. Toppos are generally at hand level. Descend the arete on the right to protect the vegetation.

To the right hand end of Snore Wall there is a set of three weaknesses. This is the left of the three with a fragile flake at the top. Hard sit start then easily up.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

Half a metre left of One Sheep. Start with your hands in the horizontal. Straight up face avoiding the hollow flake at top.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

This is the twin shallow cracks just right of the boulder in the sand. Up the cracks to awesome jug handle top-out. Sit start is VB+.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

The deeper crack left of Three Sheep, above the boulder in sand. Sit start off boulder using the undercling knob.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

The bottomless crack between the boulders in the sand. Sit start.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

The face with crossed weaknesses 1m left of Fingering The Nose Flute. A powerful undercling sit start relents to an easier face.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

The right leaning weakness on the lichenous face left of CPAP Smear. Undercling sit start with hands following the weakness.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

South-west of Snore Wall there is a group of boulders with a massive chockstone sitting on top. This is Chock Rock. Problems are on the south side.

Start right hand side of chockstone. Sit start to hand jam. Reach over the bulging chockstone and walk feet up right ramp.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

Different.

Sit start left of the chockstone, up left face via a crimp ledge. Sit rest on chockstone, face outward and reverse mantle to top.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

To find Dr Dream Boulder, turn left at the base of the Dreaming Stairs and walk north around the coastline towards Bingie Point. Walk for about 200m, past the point with the cool, pink rock intrusion, to near the end of the boulder field.

Alternatively, from the Bingie Bingie carpark, follow the Dreaming Stairs access description to the grassy area. Before the seat you will see a gully to the left (east). Follow any track to the beach after the gully. Dr Dream Boulder is the tallest boulder at beach level. Problems listed right to left.

The face just right of Day By Day. Hands (and elbows) free. Toppo drawn at foot level.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 20 Apr

Start on the right of the north face. Undercling layback the aesthetic, left leaning line.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

The middle of North face between Day By Day and Night By Night. Sit start on finger jugs then pleasant smearing.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

The splitter finger crack on the left side of the north face. Sit start at lower flake.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Mar

The left arete of the north face. Start right of the arete with both hands on lowest ledge. Mantle to establish on wall before moving either hand to the second ledge then top-out.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr

Sit start to It Begins With A Blessing.

FA: 25 May

Open Project.

The perfect splitter finger crack through rooflet on the east side of Dr Dream Boulder.

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Tue 6 Jun
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