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The Balkans

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Description

The Balkans is partly located in the Sydney suburb of Baulkham Hills so it's no wonder that its location was initially mistaken for "Balkan Hills", and the name has stuck. 'The Balkans' is unique in Sydney bouldering in that there is truly something for everyone, from total beginners, to pumpers and power mutants. Very few of the problems are eliminates and they all top out!

Useful Info: 'Excelsior' Park is a popular bush walking area. So far the friendly rangers, bush walkers and local residents seem happy to share it with us.

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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

The Balkans is located in Bidjigal Reserve, on either side of the Darling Mills Creek in North Western Sydney about 20km from the Sydney CBD. The areas on the western side of the valley (Trenches and Caves) are in the suburb of Baulkham Hills and those on the eastern side of the valley (Frontline and Swampland) are in North Rocks. See Map.

Park in Larra Cr, North Rocks for the Frontline, or Mill Dr, North Rocks for the Swampland, or Ted Horwood Reserve, Baulkham Hills for the Trenches and the Caves.

From the east / city etc … take the M2 west from the CBD and exit at Windsor Rd. Head north on Windsor Rd for about 100m and make a right into Cook St at the second set of lights.

From the west … take the M4 east from Penrith (because you can't turn off the M2 at Windsor Rd) and exit at the Cumberland Hwy. Follow it north until you get to the Old Windsor Rd T-intersection where you make a right onto Briens Rd. Follow Briens Rd for about 1km and turn left onto Windsor Rd at the big intersection. Follow Windsor Rd north for a couple of km until you cross over the M2 and make a right into Cook St at the second set of lights.

Having turned onto Cook St by either of the above methods, after about 500m turn right into Park Rd and then past the left turn taken by Park Rd, and continue on Renown Rd. About 100m along on the left is the carpark for the Trenches and the Caves or continue down the "Big Dipper" and up the other side to Mill Dr and Larra Cres on the left for the Frontline and the Swampland.

By train / bus

From the east / city etc … catch any of the 600 series Westbuses (the yellow, red and black ones) heading for 'Castle Hill' from Central Stn (at Railway Square on George St), Wynyard Stn (on Clarence St), North Sydney Stn (on Blue St) or the Macquarie Centre (near Macquarie Uni). Make sure the bus stops at Barclay Rd because this is where you get off.

From the west … catch any of the 600 series Westbuses (the yellow, red and black ones) heading for the Macquarie Centre or City (via the M2) from Blacktown Stn. Make sure the bus stops at Barclay Rd because this is where you get off.

Having arrived at Barclay Rd bus stop by either of the above methods, walk up the ramps and head west (downhill) along Barclay Rd for about 100m and turn right into Mill Dr and Larra Cres on the left for the Frontline or continue down the "Big Dipper" for the Swampland or up the other side and turn right into the carpark for the Ted Horwood Reserve for the Trenches and the Caves.

© (aca_admin)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
269
20.3k
4m
70
The Backline sector
13
28
3m
The Lip sector
12
179
3m
5
The Trenches sector
134
1,950
4m
47
Pony Cave area
14
7
4m
7
The Sewer crag
16
13
4m
6
Macedonia sector
3
4
2m

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 9 Jun
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