Umina, Rock climbing

BLDV

Map

1 12 9 10 3 2 13 11 5 7

1 Kingsview 2 The Brown Room 3 The Attic 5 Mantlemania 7 The Cape 9 The Gold Fields 10 The Benz 11 Pearl Jam Caves 12 Lake View 13 Ettalong

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Description

A small but impressive little wall blessed with solid rock and a short stroll from the car. Generally the wall is vertical to slightly overhanging with the exception of the small roof below the 'Arete' in the centre. The wall is quite high in the centre with some of the problems having deceptively difficult top outs so a good spotter is recommended highly. A few projects remain to be done; however the wall to the right past the main wall has been left un climbed. All problems are top outs and are sure to get your pulse going.

Useful Info: Guide kindly provided by Dan da Silva.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Find Mt Ettalong Road 'Umina' and follow this towards Patonga. Drive 3.5km past the Pearl Beach turn off until you come to quite a sharp left hand bend with a rocky out-crop on the corner (if you start heading down the steep road into Patonga, you've gone too far). Park on the left of the road, just after a telegraph pole where there is a large clear area for several cars.

Walk back towards the corner and head right into the bush near the second telegraph pole (you should be able to see the cliff line up on your right). Keep heading right when you come to the small cave, there is one project to be done here on the overlapping roof. Follow the broken cliff line for a short distance until you come to the obvious main wall with the central Arête feature.