Showing all 56 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Between Fear and Desire
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Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||
32 | ★ Pretty In Punk
An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local. This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete. Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994 | 20m, 4 | |||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym
The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it! Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber. Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32. Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top. FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985 | 30m, 7 | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Around the World Boulder Road Face | |||||
V10 | Millers Tale
Sit start at the back of the roof. Straight out to jug on lip and up. | 3m | |||
V10 | Andy's Problem
| 4m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||
32 | Gridlack
| 15m, 4 | |||
32 | ★★ Destroyer of the Rings
Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer FA: Lee Cossey, 2015 | 15m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall | |||||
32 | Project
| 12m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder | |||||
V10 | Iceberg Left
Start as for 'Drowning Dicaprio', make some hard moves to gain the large side-pull, then climb left and finish as for 'Overboard'. | ||||
V10 | ★ Iceberg
Start as for 'Iceberg Left' but continue straight up and top out onto the slab. Note: Broken crux hold as of 2021, yet to be re-climbed. Likely at least V11 now. | ||||
V10 | ★★ Umbra
Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'. | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Epsilon Wall Bouldering | |||||
V10 | ★★ Lullaby
Sit start on two angled slots and move up and left on crimps to finish on Epsilon Crack jug. | ||||
V10 | Lullaby Traverse
Steep face on pockets, slopers and edges Start: As for 'Down Under' FA: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Daves' Cave | |||||
V10 | ★★ Snow mike
Low start in cave. Big moves lead to finish jug above boulder. The extension is V7 on its own. | ||||
V10 | ★ Possum Overhang
Left line of slopers through roof to jugs. Traverse right, up to next level and back left to jug. | 8m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Butchers Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Butchers Choice
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Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
32 | ★★★ Orange Desire
Second Pitch to Mirage. Quentin approached from Seventh Pillar LHV via Snake in the Grass. More like 33 according to Alex Megos. FFA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
32 | ★★★ Snakes on a Train
A link up. From the anchors of Snake Flake, traverse left into the top half of Groove Train via one bolt. FA: Doug McConnell, 2012 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall | |||||
32 | ★★ Who's a Naughty Boy?
The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain. FA: Equipped (and Un-Equipped) by Gordon Poultney. First Free Ascent by Garth Miller & then re-established after Gordy's tantrum by Nathan Hoette., 1998 | 20m, 6 | |||
32 | Tyranny Into Lifestyling
The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000 | 17m, 6 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Wildsides | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Lazy Monnelli
A brilliant complex roof problem. Located 1 minute's walk downhill - left of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave. Sit-start right at the back of the cave, and climb out, down, and around to a cruxy finish out on the lip. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel | |||||
V10 | ★★ The Viking
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Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Cave Club | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Cave Club
Start as for 'Apfenschaukel', but head right through a big gaston move. 2nd ascent was quickly made by Toni Lamprecht in about 5 minutes! FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Rocks on Blocks Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Etch-a-Sketch
Start as for Mr Knox. Follow the obvious line of good holds out of the cave and head right via big moves to the arete. Continue up the right-hand arete to top out. | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Andersens Slabs | |||||
V10 | ★★ Mungo's Roof
Popular. Sit start on good flakes at the lowest part of the roof and climb the line of flakes, pinches and edges all the way out to cruxy moves at the lip. Finish at the big jug on the face or top out. FA: Mungo | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Bad Cliche Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★ When in Rome
Start back of cave with LH undercling jug and RH arete. Slap up arete and edges in roof. Give some beans to gain the arete and finish up glory jugs to top out. Stay tight to avoid dab. Recommend sweater over rock as crashpad. (Project #34 in guide). FA: James Campbell, 19 Nov 2022 | 4m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke The Meatlocker | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Keelhaul
Start at the bottom of the cave, climb the long roof crack and top out through the little hole. FA: Stephen, 2018 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke The Scab | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Daddy Chill
Start matched on the low hueco jug. Climb the steep orange/grey prow using the arete or directly up orange cove. Top out on jugs and slab. FA: Len Dalit, May 2022 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted) | |||||
VB- - 10 | Unknown/Unticked - to delete
FA: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten Closed The Kindergarten (bouldering) | |||||
V10 | ★ Drop Bear
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V10 | ★★★ Gripmaster
Previously a long-standing open project prior to Klem's arrival. Originally graded 11, with some people thinking it's still not far off that. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V10 | The Kevin Rule
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Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | |||||
32 | ★★ Somoza
One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries! FA: Dave Jones, 1999 | 20m, 10 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Loopeys | |||||
V10 | Old Henry's Sit Start
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V10 | In Your Jesus Christ Pose
Crawl into the dark cave left of 'Passion' and sit-start on the right matching a big sloper. Traverse left via a massive iron-cross move (hence the name) and finish on the left. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Hollow Mountain Cave | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Annagramma
FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2000 | ||||
V10 | ★★ Extended World
Start on the furthest RH sloper right of 'Rave Heart' original start - then traverse left into 'Amniotic World' and finish up it. FA: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
V10 R | ★★ American Pie
Jump start, left of Body Eater, and dyno towards the lip and top out. FA: Alan Pryce, 2000 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Closed Rambla Wall | |||||
V10 | Julians Traverse
A big traverse starting to the right of Problem #3 and finishing as for Problem #1 FA: Julian Saunders, 2000 | ||||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Alchemy Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Alchemy
FA: Trent Searcy | ||||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Blockhead Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★ Blockhead
Doesn't look like much but packs in some hard technical climbing. From a desperate sit start off side pulls climb the boulders nose past increasingly sloping holds. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Stoplight Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Stoplight Arete
Sit start/crouched on slopey edges and up pinching up the arete. FA: Oliver Miller | 4m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Blackbeard's Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ London Gentleman
| 3m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Quickening Boulder | |||||
V9/10 | ★★★ The Gathering
Sit start on the arete, slap up and finish as for The Quickening. FA: Matthew Lu | ||||
V10/11 | ★★ The Thiccening
Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug. | ||||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★★ The Departed
Sit start left of the arete on a sloping break. Hard moves leading left before moving up to a high and commiting finish. FA: Simon Weill | 5m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | |||||
32 | ★★★ The Waddle Inn
A shameless linkup but worthy none the less! Start up middle path and continue as per the flying duck. Do the crux dyno of the duck and then immediately head left into a rest before finishing at the path of yin anchors. Set: Nathan Hoette, 2015 FA: Gerhard Deiter, 2015 | 15m, 8 | |||
32 | ★★ Long Arm White Spider
Starts as per PFOD then joins CL for a couple of bolts. Takes traverse line a few meters south of CL to same anchor FA: Nathan H, 2014 | 50m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Crag X | |||||
32 | ★★★ Orbital Drift
The line out the middle of the big red cave. Three sections with increasing difficulties separated by good rests. Rock quality is second to none at the top. Glory jugging up final corner to double U bolt belay. FA: Doug McConnell, 31 May 2018 | 30m, 10 | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Buandik Bouldering Made It Area | |||||
V10 | Italian Rest
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V10 | Cherry Tree
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Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Closed The Gallery | |||||
32 | ★★★ Nicotine
The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly. FA: Garth Miller, 1996 | 23m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Closed Millennium Caves | |||||
32 R | ★★ Fire in da Belly
A whole new route without a single extra bolt! Start as for Red Vinyl. Extends Red Vinyl to the lip. No more bolts, although it does now have it's own anchor. Make sure you clip the last bolt on Red Vinyl then drop back down right, up, then back left to the crux. You need an alert belayer once you're out near the lip. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000 | 25m | |||
32 R | ★ Dual Fuel
Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times. Start as for Nomads / Red Vinyl Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000 | 20m | |||
32 | What's an Aging Gigolo to Do
The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent. Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of Bwana. Up from the left to gain the faint arete then move R and up the steep grey face to the top. FA: Garth Miller, 2000 | 25m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap Mountain Lion Pride Rock | |||||
V10 | ★★ Low Land Direct
Start as for 'Low Land' and once hitting the jug head straight up via a big move on crimps FA: Aden, 13 Sep 2014 | 6m |
Showing all 56 routes.