Routes in North West for selected grade

Great beginner's route.

Start as for 'Sickle' and go up this a little way then step left to short ramp then up shallow corner. Climbing it direct is around grade 8, but has no protection.

Crack 2m R of the L edge of the wall.

The middle chimney, starting 2m right of Dylan.

On the black/grey slab, in the gully right of Dog Wall are the next 3 routes. You pass under them descending from Hard Ears. Up following juggy left edge of slab.

Up the juggy wall on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to Denim Wall. Bad pro and rock but if that doesn't put you off at this grade then it's a nice summit to bag.

Start on the Back Wall of Pharos, 4m down and left of “The North East Ridge of the Pharos”. Offers the easiest access to the “Tennis Court”.

1. 10m (3) Start at the foot of a chimney. Up and then traverse left to gain the northern face of the Pharos.

2. 25m (4) Take the line of least resistance up easy series of steps until you gain a ledge that is at same height as Spiral Staircase’s first belay.

3. 8m (2) Walk to Spiral Staircase’s first belay.

Even shorter corner L of SN, then follow front of buttress to the top. Great route for kids.

Left edge of left wall of alcove.

Fun.

Start: Start: Right of 'Mermaid Avenue' and before the arete of 'Manatee Fair' there is a crack line up the wall.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Melville's Moby Dick Ooh Er'.

Climbs pitch one of Guiding Light to ledge, then through gully to exit.

1. Climb first pitch of Guiding Light to large ledge. Belay at left end of ledge near the base of wide chimney.

2. Climb the juggy left face in chimney to join the finish of the original route.

Sounds gorgeous. Easy line 6m R of 'Rungwalk'.

Up the face 1.5 L of the arete.

Start: STart a few m R of EMP, 1.5m L of the arete.

Apparently this navigates similar territory as ZM, but at 16 grades less...

Start: Start 2m L of ZM.

Start at the orange and grey rock just L of Sunstroke at the 'cheating stones'. Head diagonally L finishing as for Coccyx Corner.

Initialled 2m right of A, 6m left of gully

Follow tracks from Halls Gap; following the Venus Baths track. Just before Venus Baths, the track goes up stairs to left on the way to Splitters Falls. Follow track until near river - then over rocks to the other side. Theres a boulder feild over this: up right and around to top to the base of route.

1. 50m/3 - Starts low across river going up wall and weaving left before tending back right. Belay at boulders.

2. 50m/2 - Up over boulders up high past deep channels and belay on top of boulders up right.

3. 50m/2 - Follow major ridge tending right and up to before break

4. 50m/3 - Off to right from belay and up to large ledge.

5. 40m/2 - Up steep wall onto easy terrain - belay at large block

6. 60m/1 - Weaves on scrambles up low slabs to corner crack.

7. 35m/4 - Interesting corner and good gear. Up and over the left of this to bollard belays.

8. Over deep chasms and up far wall to left side of summit of Mackeys Peak.

Descent via scrambling back down towards pitch 7 but then left and down to right; following down slot to walking track. Track leads back to Halls Gap

Named due to the crevasse like features on the slabs, the wandering nature of the route and the atrocious conditions it was climbed in - wet and mossy.

Approach: From Halls gap take the wonderland track to the spotlight boulder. At the spotlight boulder bash through and up towards a prominent wall (potential for a direct start) and then head climbers right until you open up onto the slabs. From here break through the first overlap and the route begins.

From here pick your own adventure, going climbers left as you hit the 'crevasses' until you are near the north ridge itself. From here charge up the immaculate rock, jumping and stepping over where necessary. Near the top there is rounded en cheval section and then straight forward scrambling to the top.

A rope and a light rack may be necessary if wet, from the slabs starting it would be about 6 pitchs never harder than grade 4.

From the left most of the two descent gullies walk left through the slot against the cliff to the chimney 15m left of its left end (i.e. the second chimney). Climb the chimney for 2m then the left arête

A climb of quality. Take the major corner. Move right when below the roof and continue up the wall.

Easy chimney 3 metres left of "Trial Balance".

Don't bother.

Start about 5 metres right of Tourist Party.

Up slabby rib to overhang. Go left and up the corner for a few metres then back right to finish up the rib.

Probably a repeat of Hussite... yet a grade easier? This route starts from the base of the cliff, directly below Hussite. 1) 14m Straight up to the terrace. 2) 25m Straight up Hussite’s crack.

Slab 3 metres left of "Hussite", 2 metres right of left arete.

Start on whitish left corner of main slab moving left and up the redish slab.

Up via the large flake ramp.