Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
7 | ★ Little Revolver Crack
Discontinuous cracks. Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'. | 20m | |||
Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | |||||
7 | ★ Trooper One
Crack to horizontal break, then go 2m right and up crack. Start: 1m left of small cave on the grey wall just left of the descent gully. FA: Peter Martin, 1981 | 10m | |||
7 | ★ Dead Ned
A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 10m | |||
7 | ★ Tullah's Tease
Layback for 5m then step right into crack. Start: Start 5m right of 'Cobb & Co'. FA: John Fisher, 1983 | 12m | |||
Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
7 | Marshmallow Sea
Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road. Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Taylor, 1975 | 14m | |||
7 | Taya
Good beginner's lead. Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'. FA: Taya Cross & Glenn Mostert, 1997 | 12m | |||
Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls | |||||
7 R | The Shaker
An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock. Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.
FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1966 | 66m, 3 | |||
Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall | |||||
7 | Prairie
Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it. Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner. Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge. FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1977 | 50m | |||
Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | |||||
7 | ★ Easy Lizard
Follow Lizard Procrastination to the ledge below the final overhang. Head up and right on juggy wall to ledge on right arete. Step back left and up steep juggy crack to top. | 50m | |||
Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus | |||||
7 | ★ Cauldron
Completely redundant by today's standards...but then again it was another era back then, even pre-metric. Start: Start just R of T. FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1965 | 60m | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||
7 | ★ Charity
Up the crack. Start: Start under the L crack on the main face. FA: Bruce & Keith Lockwood, 1968 | 14m | |||
7 | Chastity
Diagonal crack. Start: Start just R of P. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981 | 18m | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||
7 | Wool socks and galoshes
This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way. FA: Sarah Natali & Wendy Eden, 5 Dec 2016 | 25m | |||
Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Minor | |||||
7 | Mouse
Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot. Chimney out above the Keyhole towards Central Gully, then move around arete onto the south face of Bluff Minor, which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 45m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | |||||
7 | ★ Stairway to Heaven
A gentle ramble with spectacular views all the way. Sort of a companion route to Spiral Staircase. The name also derives from the fact that the first ascent team had a combined age of 269, and featured more than 200 years of climbing experience. Starts between West Coast Dogma and Sombrero, where there is an obvious ledge 2m above the ground.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Keith Royce, Bob Ryan (alt leads), Ray Lassman & Miss Given, 16 Apr 2015 | 90m, 3 | |||
7 | South Pacific
The "obvious" right-facing corner on the wall right of Sombrero, then the left of twin lines up the headwall. FA: Kurt Pitts & Keith Lockwood, 5 Apr 2015 | 35m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Duck Crag | |||||
7 | Back by Three
Take the clean orange slab above the southern edge of Duck Crag, finishing on the left side of the summit block. FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Sep 2018 | 15m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area | |||||
7 | ★ Heckle
The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab. FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968 | 15m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | |||||
7 | A Walk In The Park
Twin cracks 2 metres right of Barefoot In The Park. FA: Sally Bentley & Eddy Rawlins, 2000 | 10m | |||
Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area | |||||
7 | Spare Rib
Climb the front of the clean rib about 12m left of Wedding Tackle. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 3 Sep 2016 | 30m | |||
Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | |||||
7 | Senile
Crack 5 metres right of 'Tschumpel', 1 metre left of 'Bindi'. FA: Bruno Zeller & Anne McKenzie, 1969 | 40m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Mermaid Avenue | |||||
7 | ★ Mermaid Avenue
An old fashioned line, or is that lane, as in bus? Good. Start: Between Lou and 'Stone Age' there is an obvious large chimney in the middle of a sizeable wall. This line is 'Mermaid Avenue'. FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999 | 25m | |||
Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre | |||||
7 | ★ The Nude Balloon Dance
Not as good as first thought but not bad and shady for most of the day. Usually done in one pitch. Start below the right of two obvious weaknesses right of Acapulco Gold.
FA: Unknown, 2000 | 30m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Mitre Rock Deacon Area | |||||
7 | ★ The Deviant
Not a bad lead with enough gear in horizontal breaks (take cams) and interesting moves in between. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 10m | |||
Arapiles Western Side Possum Rocks | |||||
7 | Faggot
Wide corner crack right of 'Myles'. FA: Iain Sedgman & Francine Gilfedder, 1975 | 18m | |||
7 | Central Corner
The right-facing corner to large blocks at the top. Start: Start about 35 metres up the gully above 'Cuscus'. FA: Iain Sedgman & Lesley Roberts, 2004 | 11m | |||
7 | Dame Edna
The series of lines to the roof, step right and up. Start: Start several metres left of "Pygmy Possum". FA: Iain Sedgman & Lesley Roberts, 2004 | 15m | |||
Arapiles Western Side Western Creek Valley | |||||
7 | Bonsai
The left-hand of two corners facing the valley. FA: Keith Lockwood & Iain Sedgman, 1979 | 13m | |||
7 | Sunday School
Up the corner 7 metres right of 'E Pluribus Unum' and finish right. FA: Noel Whiteside, Iain Sedgman & Leigh Penna, 1999 | 11m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Doddery Rock | |||||
7 | Ulcerations
Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007 | 6m | |||
7 | Walking Frame
Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007 | 10m | |||
7 | Granpa's Y-Fronts
2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007 | 8m | |||
7 | Pension Days
Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron barrett, 2007 | 8m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mt Emu | |||||
7 | Noddy Gets His Phil
| 25m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Mt Zero roadside Crag | |||||
7 | Easy Face
Between Big Chimney Corner and Volksgrenadier is a well trodden expanse of easy rock. Up anywhere. FA Unknown | 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Bellerophon Wall | |||||
7 | P Of P
I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks. FA: Bedford, Windridge & Thorn., 2000 | 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Grey and Green Walls The Green Wall | |||||
7 | Gunigalg Gully
A chasm. The chimney/gully between 'The Green Wall' and 'Taipan Wall'. Lots of scrambling and some roped climbing. The initial chimney often flows with water for long periods after rain. FA: Recorded by John Petheram, 2000 | 100m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
7 | Tartarus
| 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Tartarus Area | |||||
7 | Tartarus
The crack, followed by a juggy wall. Start: The L-most and widest of three cracks in the wall. FA: Charles Gunst, Mark Carlton & Margaret Brookes, 1974 | 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Back Wall | |||||
7 | Meeni
| 10m | |||
7 | ★ Chrisglen
| 9m | |||
7 | ★ Eat More Parsley
Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top. Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666. FA: Heather Phillips +1, 1985 | 22m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Noah's Ark | |||||
7 | Slip Sliding
| 12m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Wall of Fools | |||||
7 | ★ Handles
Long and sustained at the grade. Amazingly neglected considering the hordes which swamp the much smaller 'Back Wall' only 20m away. Start: Start 3-4m L of SiS beneath the deep black corner/crack up high. FA: G Brennan & Michael Wust, 1983 | 27m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Flying Blind Area | |||||
7 R | Take Your Pick
Has some loose rock. FA: Bruce Somerfield & Phil Benson, 1988 | 22m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Barc Cliff | |||||
7 | ★ Two Fern
4m right of Boots And All. There may be two ferns in a crack here. Up to small roof and over this. | 19m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted) | |||||
VB- - 10 | Unknown/Unticked - to delete
FA: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
7 | Piracy Direct Finish
Makes a pleasant little climb. From below the overhang move right and continue to the top. FA: Dick Semenow (?????), 1972 | 25m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Western Crags Flower Power Block | |||||
7 | Continuar Sonriendo
On the grey face near where the boulders form a cave. Go up the short obvious corner, then walk up the easy slab and onto the right hand edge of the face by which you gain the summit. FA: 1989 | 22m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Western Crags Main West Face | |||||
7 | Election Promise
“Guarantees not to tax you, but it‘s a bit suss". Back on the main cliff, the large flake / chimney about one third of the way along the wall. FA: 1985 | 44m | |||
7 | Sparklet
Starts from the RH end of the long overlap - scramble up slab to a ledge to start. Move L above the overlap and climb the corner until it breaks up. Move L above roof, and up. FA: 1985 | 23m | |||
Grampians North Grampians The Rockwall Area The Rockwall | |||||
7 | ★ Treachery
| 36m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Wildebeest Creek Cliff Lower | |||||
7 | Right Hand Twin Chimney
Up the RH branch of the main central chimney. FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 11 Nov 2014 | 13m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Cherub Wall | |||||
7 | ★ Name Drain
| 15m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Brim Springs Main Crag | |||||
7 | Grabben Gullen Pie
| 30m | |||
Grampians Central Grampians Boreang Campsite Area Closed Paddys Castle | |||||
7 | Blarney Stone
Arete R of Dungeon to roof, step R, up. FA: Glen Donohue & Iain Sedgman, 1988 | 15m | |||
7 | My Back Verandah
Left edge of back wall. Crack to roof, then step right and through roof. FA: Marthijs Heuperman & others, 1995 | 11m | |||
Grampians Central Grampians Bundaleer Area Bundaleer | |||||
7 | The Proverbial
On top of main cliff. When looking from Car Park (feature on top of cliff) to-wards summit a block with a corner-crack is visible. From stance at top of corner, climb groove. FA: John Moore, Chris Baxter & Phillip Stranger, 1965 | 13m | |||
Grampians Central Grampians Bundaleer Area Tower Hill | |||||
7 | Flying Low
| 18m | |||
7 | Itim
| 19m | |||
Grampians Central Grampians Mt Rosea Giant's Staircase | |||||
7 | Easter Wall
Worthless. Start: Supposed to start at initials 100 metres up the Giants Staircase. Not located yet.
FA: Geoff Shaw & Jack O'Halloran, 1961 | 39m, 2 | |||
Grampians Central Grampians Eastern Wall Cliffs The Peking Face | |||||
7 | ★ Hu Flung Dung
| 45m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Pinnacle Track Boulder | |||||
VB | Spotting the kids
Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right. | 2m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range The Tower of Paine | |||||
7 | Ages Ago
| 20m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Crock Wall | |||||
7 | Ponsonby's Crack
2m R of Yin and Yang. Up over the boulder into the chimney that takes a direct line to the top. FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983 | 27m | |||
7 | Gelati Crumble
The thin crack 2m R of Dodgem Delight. Continue up veering R to move up the crack between Dodgem Delight and Yang and follow R side of buttress to top. FA: John Fisher solo, 1983 | 27m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range The Grand Canyon West Wall | |||||
7 | Light of Day
| 15m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Pomonal Area Blazed Rock Main Face | |||||
7 | Rain, Hail or Shine
Up face left of cave, follow chimney crack, up and under large balancing rock, round left and up to finish. Vertical cam crack on right above climb for belay. FA: Matt White & Caillan Sainsbury, 1 Nov 2014 | 20m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Town Cliffs Canberra Rocks | |||||
7 | Charny Carny
The deep right hand line. Start from the lower tier. FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Alex Bamber, 7 Aug 2016 | 11m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Town Cliffs Backside Bouldering | |||||
7 | In The Black | 6m | |||
Grampians Halls Gap Area Town Cliffs Boronia Peak Boronia Bouldering Wall | |||||
7 | ★ Redgum
Simple and easiest line up middle wall. | 6m | |||
Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Seven Dials Area The First Dial | |||||
7 | Sandman
| 38m | |||
Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Redmans Bluff Middle Cliff | |||||
7 | Little Horn
Probably the vegetated gully system right of 'Trilogy' | 55m | |||
Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt William Lower Cliff | |||||
7 | Acaconda
Originally desribed as an impressive corner chimney line. Sounds pretty awful. Start: The SE 'Grampians' Guide says 300m L of Lactic Buildup and 20m L of a boulder choke at the foot of the cliff. The original description said 250 yards [230m] L of the descent gully. Look for a massive corner/chimney up high. Supposedly initialled.
FA: Rob Taylor & Jerry Grandage [alt], 1966 | 63m, 3 | |||
Grampians South-Eastern Grampians North-West Serra Range Eldorado Lower Cliffs | |||||
7 | New Chum Hill
Front of buttress left of Pommy Granite. FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Birkett, Susie Massie & Liz Webb, 1991 | 20m | |||
Grampians South-Eastern Grampians North-West Serra Range Dreamtime Wall | |||||
7 | ★ Prince Albert
Fun but short. Start: About 15m west of "Mookie" is a 15m high pillar that's hard to miss. This route climbs the south (easiest) side. Appears to be a direct version of 'Moomba'. FA: Josef Goding, Ambia Scott & Dianne C, 2009 | 12m, 3 | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area The Lost World | |||||
7 | The Go-Between
Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.
FA: Chris O'Brien & Chris Baxter (alt), 1975 | 79m, 2 | |||
Grampians Victoria Range The Fortress Area The Fortress Black Knight Buttress | |||||
7 | ★★ Black Knight
A great climb up a huge corner leads to a fragile finish. Start: Start below the huge corner marking the right side of an impressive blank wall.
FA: Geoff Gledhill, Alan Gledhill (alt) & Ben Sandilands, 1971 | 90m, 2 | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Graham's Creek Diseased Wall | |||||
7 | ★ Laryngitis
Left the first ascentists speechless. The left hand line.
FA: Ian & Neil Barr, 1980 | 80m, 2 | |||
7 | Bronchitis
The better of the easy routes. Climb the right hand line with a choice of belay spots. FA: Peter Darby & Graham Sanders, 1980 | 90m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Ruined Castle | |||||
7 | Unknown
Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack! FA: Pete Donald & Jackie Colhan, 2006 | 10m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Number 1 Creek Valley The Great Slab | |||||
7 | Free And Easy
A rather irrelevant climb taking the centre of the smoothest part of the slab just right of the big corner. The bulges are avoided by diverging into the corner at those points. FA: Peter Watling & Alan Hope, 1982 | 110m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Renaissance Walls Back Buttress | |||||
7 | Orlando
| 15m | |||
7 | Crescent Footpad
| 15m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Renaissance Walls The Lower Cliff | |||||
7 | In Praise Of Folly
| 25m | |||
7 | Diet Of Worms
| 21m | |||
7 | Nobody Loves Me
| 21m | |||
7 | Everybody Hates Me
| 17m | |||
7 | Vatican Rag
| 18m | |||
7 | Escher
| 14m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Boot Hill No Laughing Matter Buttress | |||||
7 | Afterglow
| 47m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Boot Hill Paul Kelly Wall | |||||
7 | ★ Dumb Things
| 24m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap Mountain Lion | |||||
7 | Elsa
May be a repeat of "A Soft Furry Thing". As you walk past the southern face of the 'Mountain Lion' there is a slab with a broken corner with two cracks. FA: John Handley & Dale Wakefield, 1994 | 10m | |||
7 | The Lion's Den
Start 7 metres left of "Not Christians For Dinner Again" at crack separating the detached block from the main face. Follow the main crack until it gets too narrow then continue up right side of buttress. FA: Darren Lynch & Andrew Lynch, 1992 | 20m | |||
VB | Choss Boss
Crouch start on lowest part of lip near cliffline. Rising traverse on lip all the way to the highest point meeting with J.S Memorial Choss FA: Jimmy Stephens, 2014 | 2m | |||
7 | Zsa-Zsa's Crack
Pleasant bridging up the wide chimney at the left end of the overhanging wall. FA: Simon Todman & Peter Watling, 1991 | 30m | |||
7 | ★ The Eye Of The Tiger
Not to be confused with the route of the same name at Muline. Take the right-hand chimney then up the orange corner above to pull through the "eye" (a gap in the small roof). FA: Campbell Mercer & Peter Seidel, 1991 | 20m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap Mountain Lion Vanya Wall | |||||
7 | Watch Gonna Call It
This and next micro-route are behind the Lion's Head itself. From the top of Decapitating Tweety Birds walk back to the juggy wall immediately behind the back wall of the Lion's Head. On the right arete is a narrow strip of rock in an airy position. Climb the narrow band of smooth rock on the arete. FA: Jill Pearce, Jo Whitelaw, Michael Mulcairn & Peter Watling, 1993 | 10m | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap The Chimney Pots | |||||
7 | The Tower Of Babel
Start: Start in broken corner-cum-gully 90 metres right of where the track hits the cliff. This is directly below the step in the huge roofs high up and a forked gumtree 40 metres up.
FA: Bob Jones & Steve Craddock (alt), 1961 | 210m, 6 | |||
Grampians Victoria Range Geerak Track Swamp Wall | |||||
7 | Picaninny
Climb the left line to the roof and exit left. FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978 | 10m |