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The Top Cave

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 87

Seasonality

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Description

The collection of 4 large boulders pretty much at the top of the hill, above 'Psycho Ant Wall'.

© (pete_w)

Access issues inherited from Wagstaffe - Bouldering

If you are heading out to this area please respect the privacy of the local residents. This area is within Bouddi National Park. Rangers have threatened to confiscate climbing gear from those using Lobster Cave and it best to keep a low profile.

©

Ethic inherited from Wagstaffe - Bouldering

If using ropes, please protect trees and rock. Only clean what you intend to climb

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Traverse the obvious ledge rightwards and out through the roof to a long move to gain the ledge where it runs out towards the lip of the cave. Finish matched on the sloping ledge just around the corner.

Start: Sit start at the far left of cave on farthest jug.

FA: Dan da Silva, 2000

Start as top shelf and climb into broken boy soldier

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

Traverse the back wall as for 'Universal solider' but instead of taking the hard exit up and around the head wall continue out below the lip to do the easier finish of one of the V4's. Super Pumper

Start: As for Top shelf

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

From the starting crimps, climb directly backwards. L/H to gaston, R/H to poor undercling, match, then a weird move gains the 'interloper' pocket on the inside of the lip. Finish up 'Interloper'. The entire top shelf ledge is off limits. A shoulder destroyer! I know

Start: Sit start in about the center of the right hand cave on two fairly incut crimps.

FA: Daniel da Silva

Slap the big sloper then punch directly back out and around the lip to a bad pocket then back rightish via various bad crimps and edges to finish at the break above. The big slot to the left is off for hands. Classic hardy

Start: Sit start below sloper under lip

FA: Dan, 2000

Slap up to the big sloper, then climb out around the lip heading leftward to gain the good slot out on the face. Punch directly up from here to finish on the slopey ledge as for 'Top Shelf'. The holds underneath the lip as used for 'Interloper' are off.

Start: Sit start below the big sloper under the lip.

FA: Dan da Silva, 2000

A funky problem that climbs the inside lip of the cave. From the sloper make your way through pockets under the lip to gain the good jug on the prow below the finish of 'Top Shelf' Punch a big move for the ledge to finish as for that problem. Rad

Start: As for 4 & 5

FA: Dan, 2007

From a sit start move up the face via some side pulls to finish at the high break. Traverse off right or jump off

Start: Sit start just outside the cave on the right hand face near the block on the ground.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

'Dans Newy'

FA: Dan da Silva, 2000

Link Firing squad into broken boy solider exit. Once in double underclings of firing squad, make a hard move right to join the sloper rail of broken boy soldier and finish as per this problem. The whole Top Shelf (v3) ledge is off as are the Interloper (V4) slots/jugs under the roof.

Start: Sit as for Firing Squad.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2009

Starting on the top break at the end of Broken Soldier Boy, follow the fine line of solid holds through the sea of choss topping out the boulder walking off left before the mini overhang.

WARNING. Be very carefully especially higher up where a lot of the solid looking holds are quite loose and will break off quite easily

Link the start of 'Top Shelf' into 'Bullet and a Target' into and topping out with 'High Calibre'.

Start matched on undercling on the far right of cave moving up and right to finish matched at the obvious break.

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Wed 7 Jun
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