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Saddle Mountain

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 5

Seasonality

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Summary

Quartzite multi-pitch, just far enough from the car to keep crowds at bay

Description

The E/SE faces of Saddle Mountain are an outcropping of high-quality Gog Quartzite just a few kilometres from Lake Louise Upper Parking Lot. Excellent trad multi-pitch routes abound.

Access issues inherited from Lake Louise

It's a National park. Be a descent respectful person

Approach

Take the hiker’s trail to Saddleback Pass, and branch off the main trail a few hundred metres from the trail’s high-point. Step across a very small creek, proceed through a narrow stand of larches, and follow cairns to a midline ledge that circumnavigates the East face of Saddle Mountain (Buddha Buttress). A well-worn approach trail can be followed around to the base of the Southeast face (Toys in the Attic, MacTrump Route, Screams from the Balcony, ...).

Ethic inherited from Lake Louise

Trad cracks stay trad.

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Routes

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Grade Route

First route on the cliff

FA: Tim Auger & PA

Mostly a trad climb, with bolted anchors at the top of pitches 2-5, and 6 protection bolts on pitch 5. Phenomenal position on the final pitch.

FA: Andrew Langsford & Mike Verwey

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Fri 9 Jun
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