A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Campbell Gome Paul Badenoch Budd68 Paul Frothy Thomson Ben Smith Kai Damian Vertical Pirate Mathias Woltery Mo
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Rive Gauche
478 in Cliff
-
1.1.
Les Cavaliers 49 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Triple Buse 2 in Crag
- 1.1.2. Om Nama Shiva 9 in Crag
- 1.1.3. Magnetic Boulevard 5 in Crag
- 1.1.4. Enantiomorphe 5 in Crag
- 1.1.5. Hozro 6 in Crag
- 1.1.6. L'Annee des 13 Lunes 9 in Crag
- 1.1.7. 9.81 metres/second/second 5 in Crag
- 1.1.8. Par Ici la Sortie 5 in Crag
- 1.1.9. Instant Fragile 3 in Crag
-
1.2.
Sallières 20 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Action de Grace 6 in Crag
- 1.2.2. Et Toc la Tete 10 in Crag
- 1.2.3. Faux Soleil 4 in Crag
-
1.3.
Bauchet 90 in Crag
- 1.3.1. Raison d'Hetre 7 in Crag
- 1.3.2. Le Reveur Debauche 12 in Crag
- 1.3.3. Madame Reve 7 in Crag
- 1.3.4. Aquarelle 10 in Crag
- 1.3.5. La Bonne Etoile 8 in Crag
- 1.3.6. Apiclimber 6 in Crag
- 1.3.7. Un Paradis d'Enfer 8 in Crag
- 1.3.8. La Catalyse 5 in Crag
- 1.3.9. Fatal Mambo 9 in Crag
- 1.3.10. Egosystem 8 in Crag
- 1.3.11. Outrages du Temps 10 in Crag
-
1.4.
Les Hauts Vernis 70 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Jeremifasol 4 in Crag
- 1.4.2. Qui Reva Verra 10 in Crag
- 1.4.3. Or i y a... 8 in Crag
- 1.4.4. Yayaourt 5 in Crag
- 1.4.5. Fromage et Dessert 4 in Crag
- 1.4.6. Chateau des Brumes 5 in Crag
- 1.4.7. Premier Point Final 9 in Crag
- 1.4.8. Nid d'Aigle 4 in Crag
- 1.4.9. Liaison Speciale 6 in Crag
- 1.4.10. Marc de Cafe 3 in Crag
- 1.4.11. Lucky Luke 12 in Crag
- 1.4.12. Sayonara 0 in Crag
- 1.5. Pantin du Néant 5 in Crag
- 1.6. Les Petites Pointes 4 in Crag
- 1.7. Pas de Gairou 5 in Crag
- 1.8. La Ramirole 71 in Cliff
-
1.9.
Col d'Illoire 16 in Sector
- 1.9.1. Fraluc 6 in Crag
- 1.9.2. Flamme Noire 10 in Crag
-
1.10.
Vallon d'Estay 45 in Crag
- 1.10.1. La Chaise Haute 8 in Crag
- 1.10.2. Gavade 6 in Crag
- 1.10.3. Classes Uniques 11 in Crag
- 1.10.4. Big Bosse 12 in Crag
- 1.10.5. Graine de Soleil 8 in Crag
-
1.11.
Point Sublime 93 in Crag
-
1.11.1.
Duc-Encastel 52 in Crag
- 1.11.1.1. Paroi Du Duc / Le Duc 7 in Cliff
- 1.11.1.2. Dièdre Samson 3 in Sector
- 1.11.1.3. Encastel 1 in Cliff
- 1.11.1.4. Hulk 35 in Sector
- 1.11.1.5. Graoubaou 6 in Crag
- 1.11.2. Baume aux Couillons 29 in Sector
- 1.11.3. Grotte du dragon 12 in Cliff
-
1.11.1.
Duc-Encastel 52 in Crag
- 1.12. Tom et Je Ris 2 in Sector
- 1.13. Estellié 6 in Area
- 1.14. Pillier Mague 2 in Sector
-
1.1.
Les Cavaliers 49 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Rive Gauche 478 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.766971, 6.312690
description
The climbs in the south side of the Verdon Gorge.
access issues
The gorges are the home of a few protected bird species. Some areas may be closed during nesting season.
ethic
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. Les Cavaliers 49 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.737187, 6.347668
1.1.1. Triple Buse 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Triple Buse | 6c+ | ||||
2 | Triple Buse Variant Finish | 6c+ |
1.1.2. Om Nama Shiva 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | No Bramashari For Ever | 6a | ||||
2 | Le Pilier des Sorciers | 6c+ | ||||
3 | Par le Petit Bout de la Lorgnette | 6a | ||||
4 | Les Caves Allies | 7b | ||||
5 | Om Nama Shiva | 7a+ | ||||
6 | Mystical Adventure | 8a | ||||
7 | Incantation | 7b+ | ||||
8 | Fugazi | 7c | ||||
9 | Caverna Magica | 7c |
1.1.3. Magnetic Boulevard 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Homeostasie | 7c+ | ||||
2 | First and Last Always | 7c+ | ||||
3 | Abime Anonynme | 7c | ||||
4 | Magnetic Boulevard | 8a | ||||
5 | Obsession | 7b+ |
1.1.4. Enantiomorphe 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mygalomane | 5c+ | ||||
2 | Question d'Entropie | 6c | ||||
3 | May - Day | 7a | ||||
4 | Deuxieme Vie | 5b+ | ||||
5 | L'Enantiomorphe | 7a |
1.1.5. Hozro 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Matin Blea | 7a | ||||
2 | ★★★ Hozro | 5c | ||||
3 | Mais il y a un Mai... | 6c+ | ||||
4 | Tout Aout a Fait | 6c+ | ||||
5 | L'Essence en Eveil | 7a | ||||
6 | ★ Une Cerise sur le Gateau | 6b |
1.1.6. L'Annee des 13 Lunes 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Don d'Ubiquite | 6c+ | ||||
2 | L'Annee des 13 Lunes | 6c+ | ||||
3 | Eclosion | 7a | ||||
4 | Pena del Sol | 6c+ | ||||
5 | Poussiere de Lichen Variant | 7a+ | ||||
6 | Poussiere de Lichen | 7c | ||||
7 | Chic Show | 7b+ | ||||
8 | Desert en Devers | 7c | ||||
9 | Aube Minerale | 8a |
1.1.7. 9.81 metres/second/second 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Totally Bananas | 6a | ||||
2 | Evasion Rituelle | 5c | ||||
3 | ★ Alibi Sanguin | 5b+ | ||||
4 | 9.81 metres/second/second Variant | 6c | ||||
5 | 9.81 metres/second/second | 6c |
1.1.8. Par Ici la Sortie 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le Monde des Si Petits | 4b+ | ||||
2 | ★ Roberebobette | 5b+ | ||||
3 | Back Stadge | 5a | ||||
4 | Doryphore Spoken | 6a+ | ||||
5 | Vers l'Embrasure des Cieux | 5c |
1.1.9. Instant Fragile 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | J'y Crois, J'y Crois Pas... | 7a | ||||
2 | Le Diedre Neuf | 5c | ||||
3 | Instant Fragile | 7c+ |
1.2. Sallières 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.746068, 6.327643
1.2.1. Action de Grace 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Droit d'Hauteur | 5c | ||||
2 | Reproduction Interdite | 8a | ||||
3 | Monsieur Prope | 5c | ||||
4 | Est-ce Bien Raisonnable? | 6c | ||||
5 | Silicon Carne | 6a | 2 | |||
6 | Action de Grace | 7b+ |
1.2.2. Et Toc la Tete 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Reve Premonitoire | 6c | ||||
2 | Quand Je Serais Grand | 6c | ||||
3 | ★★ Et Toc la Tete | 6a | ||||
4 | Sur les Pas de Bouddha | 7b+ | ||||
5 | Lait de Coco | 7a | ||||
6 | Sortie de Nuit | 5c | ||||
7 | La Ballade des Echos | 5b | ||||
8 | Journee de Repos | 5b+ | ||||
9 | Voie de Roland | 5a | ||||
10 | En Cas de Secheresse | 6a+ |
1.2.3. Faux Soleil 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Yaniro Ni Pet | 6c | ||||
2 | Faux Soleil | 6c | ||||
3 | Legende d'Automne | 6c | ||||
4 | Pas Toutes les Memes... | 6a |
1.3. Bauchet 90 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.749664, 6.322081
- With Kids: The base of the wall is mostly flat with space to play and no risk of falling, but the approach is a steep via ferrata. Not recommended for kids.
description
1.3.1. Raison d'Hetre 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Deux Pipistrelles sous l'Ecaille | 7a+ | ||||
2 | ★★★ Rattlesnake | 7b | ||||
3 | 41, la Placette | 8b+ | ||||
4 | Ultimi Atome | 8b+ | ||||
5 | De l'Eau de La | 8a | ||||
6 | Raison d'Hetre | 7c | ||||
7 | ★★ Fly and the Tox | 8a |
1.3.2. Le Reveur Debauche 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Coeur Transi | 8a | ||||
2 | Coeur Transi Variant | 8a | ||||
3 | Malediction | 7a+ | ||||
4 | Gare au Loupi 1 | 7b | ||||
5 | ★★★ Jus de Fantaisie | 7b+ | ||||
6 | Objo Non Identifie | 7b | ||||
7 | Bille en Tete | 7b+ | ||||
8 | Le Reveur Debauche | 7a | ||||
9 | Le Reveur Debauche Variant | 7a | ||||
10 | ★★ Petite Folie | 7a+ | ||||
11 | Merci la Vie | 7c | ||||
12 | Un Bon Jour Pour Mourir | 7a |
1.3.3. Madame Reve 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Madame Reve | 6c | ||||
2 | Tout Ca Pour Ca | 7c+ | ||||
3 | Grande Illusion | 7b+ | ||||
4 | Madame Reve Variant | 6c | ||||
5 | Marchands de Poison | 7c+ | ||||
6 | Emotion Furtive | 7b | ||||
7 | Subtile Rancoeur | 6c+ |
1.3.4. Aquarelle 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Tribulacion de Gabachos | 7a | ||||
2 | ★★ Cruelles Esperances | 6c+ | ||||
3 | Derive Errante | 6c+ | ||||
4 | Ye n'en pe Plou! | 7a | ||||
5 | Le Voleur d'Innocence | 7c | ||||
6 | Vent de Panique | 7b+ | ||||
7 | Figure Imposee | 7c+ | ||||
8 | Aquarelle | 7b+ | ||||
9 | Petit Louis et l'Ile Merveilleuse | 7b | ||||
10 | Changement de Decors | 6c+ |
1.3.5. La Bonne Etoile 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Marionettiste | 6c+ | ||||
2 | ★★ Antares | 6b+ | ||||
3 | ★★ La Bonne Etoile | 6b+ | ||||
4 | ★★ La Question | 6c+ | ||||
5 | Les Aleas du Moindre Effort | 7a+ | ||||
6 | Vae Victis | 7b | ||||
7 | Danae | 6b | ||||
8 | Complicites Ephemeres | 7b+ |
1.3.6. Apiclimber 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Vanitas | 7b | ||||
2 | ★★ Comme les Destins Conduisent | 7c | ||||
3 | Apiclimber | 7a | ||||
4 | L'Avis des Rats | 6c | ||||
5 | Douleur Ebauchee | 7a | ||||
6 | Si Seulement... | 6c+ |
1.3.7. Un Paradis d'Enfer 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Un Paradis d'Enfer | 7a+ | ||||
2 | Pieces et Main d'Oeuvre | 7a+ | ||||
3 | Hakuna Matata | 6c | ||||
4 | Tais-Toi et Broute! | 6a | ||||
5 | Generation Pentium | 7a | ||||
6 | Back Door | 6b | ||||
7 | Obligation Morale | 7b+ | ||||
8 | La Loi de Murphy | 7a |
1.3.8. La Catalyse 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ La Catalyse | 5c+ | 25m, 9 | |||
2 | Les Mots Pour le Dire | 5a+ | 33m, 8 | |||
3 | Sacree Soiree | 6a | 17m, 6 | |||
4 | Mimi Siku | 5c | 33m, 9 | |||
5 | Partner Particulier | 5b | 27m, 8 |
1.3.9. Fatal Mambo 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Motie Ange, Motie Demon | 6b | 35m, 12 | |||
2 | Delices Feminins | 7b | 40m, 11 | |||
3 | Passansouci | 7c+ | 27m, 11 | |||
4 | L'Inattendue | 5b | 12m, 4 | |||
5 | Fatal Mambo | 8a | 10 | |||
6 | Clin d'Oeil | 6a | 11m, 4 | |||
7 | Georgette a Dit... | 7a+ | 20m, 7 | |||
8 | Illusion | 6c+ | 25m, 10 | |||
9 | Mad Season | 7c+ | 18m, 6 |
1.3.10. Egosystem 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Les Choses Commes Elles Viennent | 6c+ | ||||
2 | De l'Espace et du Temps | 7a+ | ||||
3 | Egosystem | 7a | ||||
4 | Bibouille | 6c+ | ||||
5 | Et le Temps Cessa d'Exister | 7a | ||||
6 | Tabloid | 7a+ | ||||
7 | L'Apprentissage du Choix | 7b | ||||
8 | L'Ere du Verseau | 7c+ |
1.3.11. Outrages du Temps 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le Chemin de Faire | 4a | ||||
2 | Papet Ze | 4a | ||||
3 | Alerte a Chabassole | 5a | ||||
4 | Article 9 | 5a | ||||
5 | Express | 4b | ||||
6 | Outrages du Temps | 6a+ | ||||
7 | Les Facadiers | 6b | ||||
8 | Le Pas Trimonio | 6a | ||||
9 | La Vengeance de la Mere Denis | 5c | ||||
10 | Un Pin ne fait pas un Cade! | 5b+ |
1.4. Les Hauts Vernis 70 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.792189, 6.251987
summary
Asome view...through treelines onto the lake...once reacing the top just killed my the beauty!!
description
Nice crag for beginners and medium good climbers....sadly smelling like a toilet on some parts....some climbers are idiots!
access issues
easiest was trough camping place near the lake
approach
Best to check (https://www.openstreetmap.org/changeset/21857034#map=17/43.79415/6.24765&layers=D) could need some more days to add new track beause the path up the hill is a littlebit smaller so easier with a GPS once you found it you will never miss...
where to stay
Camping les galetas directly below the crag (1,8km) Caming de L'Aigle Aiguines (30 min walk to crack)
1.4.1. Jeremifasol 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Spider Kilian | 6c+ | ||||
2 | Anakatass | 7a+ | ||||
3 | Jeremifasol | 6a | ||||
4 | Sylvidee | 6a |
1.4.2. Qui Reva Verra 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Deraison d'Esperer | 5c+ | ||||
2 | Ludopic | 6b+ | ||||
3 | En Vers et Contre Tout | 5c | ||||
4 | Le Rock Fredheorique | 4b | ||||
5 | Pierres qui Mordent | 6a | ||||
6 | ★★ À Damien mes Amis | 6a | 28m | |||
7 | ★★ Qui âme endort, âme en dine... | 5a | 20m | |||
8 | Ces Lignes de nos Eleves... | 6b | ||||
9 | ★★ Qui Reva Verra | 6c | ||||
10 | ★ Orage au Desespoir | 6a | 30m |
1.4.3. Or i y a... 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ En Tonne y Soit (Qui Mal y Pense) | 5b+ | 20m, 8 | |||
2 | La Terreur en Estafilade | 6c+ | 25m, 9 | |||
3 | ★★ Or il y a... | 7b+ | 25m, 11 | |||
4 | ★★ L'IntelLeo | 6a | 30m, 14 | |||
5 | L'AspectLeo | 5a | 35m, 5 | |||
6 | Bon Plan! | 6b+ | 30m, 14 | |||
7 | Biaurelie | 6b | 30m, 8 | |||
8 | Chaussee Yoann | 5c+ | 30m, 12 |
1.4.4. Yayaourt 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Yayaourt | 5c+ | ||||
2 | Gossizdat | 5c | ||||
3 | Fleuer de Buis | 5b+ | ||||
4 | ★★ Curver | 4c | ||||
5 | Laurentisdat | 6b |
1.4.5. Fromage et Dessert 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fromage et Dessert | 6b+ | ||||
2 | Big Nose et 1900i | 6c | ||||
3 | Mamy ne Fume pas le Petard! | 6c+ | ||||
4 | Bela Lug's Life | 7b |
1.4.6. Chateau des Brumes 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Les Mollets de Manu | 6c+ | ||||
2 | Les Seins de Glace | 6c+ | ||||
3 | Au Dela des Ombres | 7b | ||||
4 | ★★ Chateau des Brumes | 7a+ | ||||
5 | Le Signe du Scorpion | 7b+ |
1.4.7. Premier Point Final 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fleurs de Meninges | 6c | ||||
2 | Les Nanas Vont Trop Loin! | 5c+ | ||||
3 | La Sans Trac | 6b+ | ||||
4 | Premier Point Final | 6b | ||||
5 | Acte Gante | 7a | ||||
6 | Pas Touche la Boubou | 6a+ | ||||
7 | Brin d'Herbe | 7b | ||||
8 | Manee | 7a | ||||
9 | Reblai | 6a |
1.4.8. Nid d'Aigle 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stop a Faire | 3c+ | ||||
2 | Tonnerre de Roc | 5c | ||||
3 | Les Fils la Boulange | 4b | ||||
4 | Crazy Jannu | 6a+ |
1.4.9. Liaison Speciale 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Assistance Volante | 5c+ | ||||
2 | Hors Temps | 7a | ||||
3 | Aspirante/Cafe | 6a+ | ||||
4 | La Tache Rapide | 5c | ||||
5 | Liaison Speciale | 4b | ||||
6 | Le Goupillon Magique | 6b+ |
1.4.10. Marc de Cafe 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | De la Volonte nait la Contrainte | 7a | ||||
2 | Marc de Cafe | 6a | ||||
3 | La Belle Helene | 5c+ |
1.4.11. Lucky Luke 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.789726, 6.251718
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Autour des Frijoles | 5a+ | ||||
2 | Ma Dalton | 4c | ||||
3 | Canyon Apache | 4a | ||||
4 | Amaot | 4a | ||||
5 | Jolly-Jumper | 3c | ||||
6 | O'Timmins | 4c+ | ||||
7 | ★ Jompa-Jompa | 4b | ||||
8 | ★★ O'Hara | 4c | ||||
9 | Awerell | 4b | ||||
10 | Joe | 3a | ||||
11 | Jack | 3b | ||||
12 | William | 3b+ |
1.4.12. Sayonara 0 routes in Crag
1.5. Pantin du Néant 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.735399, 6.356324
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le Jugement Dernier | 8a | ||||
2 | Pantin du Neant | 8a | ||||
3 | Le Soleil, le Vent | 7b | ||||
4 | Reve d'Enfant | 7b+ | ||||
5 | Grave | 6a |
1.6. Les Petites Pointes 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.745161, 6.330461
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stainless | 7b | ||||
2 | Enivrance d'un Soir | 7b+ | ||||
3 | Hubble | 7a+ | ||||
4 | Meta | 5c |
1.7. Pas de Gairou 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.799121, 6.254633
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Diedro Ketchup | 6b+ | ||||
2 | Fingers Paradise | 8a | ||||
3 | Sensuelle et sans Suite | 7b | ||||
4 | Mickey Maousse | 7a | ||||
5 | Le Poinconneur des Lilas | 7c+ |
1.8. La Ramirole 71 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.734702, 6.360033
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | L’antidote | 7c+ | 6 | |||
2 | ? | 7c | ||||
3 | La voie du Dom | 6c | ||||
4 | Débilis | 7b+ | ||||
5 | ★★ Les salades de l’apocalypse | 7a | 2 | |||
6 | Panda dub | 6c+ | 2 | |||
7 | L’esthète de lard | 8a | ||||
8 |
★★★ Ultime démence
P3-P4 : onsighted by Charlotte Durif in 2009. | 8a | 6 | |||
9 | Les mollets immolés | 8b | 2 | |||
10 | La pas si sage femme | 8c | ||||
11 |
★★★ Pajarito / Parejito
Set: Antonin Rhodes FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 30 Jul 2014 | 9a | 40m, 2 | |||
12 | Et Dieu créa la flamme... | 8a+ | ||||
13 | ★★★ Mister Benjoin | 8b | ||||
14 | ★★★ Twin Power | 8b+ | ||||
15 | Patxi chulo | 8b+ | ||||
16 |
Basse Température
Onsighted by Charlotte Durif (2009). | 8b | ||||
17 | ★★★ Papy ké devers | 7c+ | 4 | |||
18 | United Colors of Verdon | 8b | ||||
19 | Les cavaliers de la peau pas lisse | 9a | ||||
20 | La Fistinière | 7b+ | ||||
21 | Emisphère nord | 7b+ | ||||
22 | Le Chris orgasmique | 7b | ||||
23 | Wind orgasmique | 7b+ | ||||
24 | Wind guru | 7c | ||||
25 | La tête de morve | 7c | ||||
26 | ★★ Le clocheton du chicon | 7a+ | ||||
27 | Rhodes et l’eau | 8a+ | ||||
28 | Louis Attaque | 8a | ||||
29 |
★★★ La Ramirole
Set: Bruno Clément | 8b | 150m, 5 | |||
30 |
Épique pocket
Louis Attaque (P1) + La Ramirole (P2) | 8a+ | 2 | |||
31 | La Première Dame | 8c+ | ||||
32 | ★★ Pequeña | 7c+ | ||||
33 |
L’homme demain
This route is made of two parts:
Seb has said that this was harder than "Thor's Hammer" which is why he is suggesting 9a+. Set: Antonin Rhodes FA: Sébastien Bouin, 27 Aug 2016 | 9a/a+ | 50m | |||
34 |
A muerte Bilou
Set: Antonin Rhodes FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 29 Aug 2015 | 9a | 50m, 2 | |||
35 | Dialogue de lourd | 8c+ | ||||
36 |
★★★ Promotion canne à pêche
Set: Antonin Rhodes FA: Sébastien Bouin, 2011 | 9a | 50m | |||
37 |
Spanish Caravane
Start as Bohemian symphony and finish as Promotion canne à pêche. Set: Antonin Rhodes FA: Carole Palmier, 9 Aug 2015 | 8c | 50m | |||
38 |
La Rage d’Adam / Adam's Rage
An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta). The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b . It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route. Set: Antonin Rhodes FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 5 Sep 2019 | 9b/b+ | ||||
39 | Bohemian Symphony | 8b | ||||
40 |
Bohemian Symphony Extension
FA: Sébastien Bouin, 27 Jul 2020 | 8c | ||||
41 | If you want | 8a+ | ||||
42 | L’esthète dans le fion | 8c | ||||
43 | Le feu occulte | 8b+ | ||||
44 | L’enculeur de moches | 8c | ||||
45 | La flûte en chantier | 8c+ | ||||
46 | ★★★ Les suceurs de médailles | 8a | ||||
47 | Émie serre la pince | 8a+ | ||||
48 | La guerre des paires | 8a | ||||
49 | Brouillon de culture | 7b+ | ||||
50 | Depeche Rhodes | 7c+ | 2 | |||
51 | ★ Lait chaud de la mamie molle | 7b | ||||
52 | Freyzer Söze | 8b+ | ||||
53 | L’Arnoldisable | 8b+ | 2 | |||
54 |
Une chatte brûlante sous un toit
Depeche Rhodes + Freyzer Söze + L’Arnoldisable | 8b+ | 4 | |||
55 | Tout travail mérite sa bière | 8b | ||||
56 | Pain killer | 7c+ | ||||
57 | Le dos thaïlandais | 7c | 2 | |||
58 |
La côte d’usure
A 60m "king line" on an overhanging prow above 150m of air. Seb bolted the route in 2009, in a bottom up effort that took him three days to complete. Over the following years, Seb regularly came back to try the route but it soon became obvious that its difficulty was out of reach. He finally sent his project in 2008, grading it 9a+ (solid). History video Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2009 FA: Sébastien Bouin, 23 Sep 2018 | 9a+ | 60m | |||
59 | Kiss Kiss Gang Bang | 8b+ | 6 | |||
60 | Kiss Kiss Bang Bang | 8b | ||||
61 |
Hosanna
One of the hardest multi-pitch lines in France. Set: Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, 2012 FA: Cédric Lachat, 20 Oct 2016 | 8c | 160m, 5 | |||
62 | Little Girl Blue | 8a+ | ||||
63 | La coccinelle trompe l’œil | 8b | ||||
64 | Burne Out | 8b+ | ||||
65 | Red flag | 8a | 2 | |||
66 |
Red tag
Set: Christophe Louis & Elie Morieux FA: Sébastien Bouin | 8b | 3 | |||
67 | Arme de destruction massive | 8a+ | ||||
68 | Arme de création massive | 8a | ||||
69 | Red tag total | 8b+ | 3 | |||
70 |
La traînée rousse
Set: Antonin Rhodes FA: Sébastien Bouin, 5 Aug 2020 | 8c/c+ | ||||
71 |
DNA
Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2019 FA: Sébastien Bouin, 29 Apr 2022 | 9c |
1.9. Col d'Illoire 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.774582, 6.254912
approach
Park at:
43.774033,6.256313 Cross the Street and go to
43.774255,6.256047 Than go to
43.774580,6.255024 (Col d'Illoire) Or go to
43.774571,6.256044 (Fraluc)
1.9.1. Fraluc 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.774597, 6.255472
approach
Park at:
43.774033,6.256313 Cross the Street and go to
43.774255,6.256047 Than go to
43.774580,6.255024 (Col d'Illoire) Or go to
43.774571,6.256044 (Fraluc)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Fraluc | 5a+ | ||||
2 | Le Roi des Chevres | 5a | ||||
3 | ★ Delire a Deux | 6a | ||||
4 | ★★ Tintinabul'art | 6a | ||||
5 | ★★★ Toa | 6a+ | ||||
6 | ★★ Une Paire de Trois | 5b |
1.9.2. Flamme Noire 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
description
Fun and easy crag for beginners, with a north-east and north-west wall, so lots of shade.
approach
Navigating to the parking Col d'Illoire, going a little further up the road, you can park on the outside of a wide, spacious corner. From there, find your way down through a fairly steep descent. On your left is the north-east wall, on your right the north-west one.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Alaska | 4a | ||||
2 | ★ Casserolles | 5a | ||||
3 | ★★ Flamme Noire | 4c | ||||
4 | ★ Le Guepard | 5a+ | ||||
5 | Souffler n'est pas Jouer | 5a+ | ||||
6 | Cousin Gris | 4c | ||||
7 | Paillette | 5a+ | ||||
8 | L'Hyene | 5c | ||||
9 | Perdrix | 5c | ||||
10 | ★★ Afrique | 5c |
1.10. Vallon d'Estay 45 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.757712, 6.234175
1.10.1. La Chaise Haute 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | On Niva | 5a | ||||
2 | La Chaise Haute | 4a | ||||
3 | N'oublie pas mes Petits Souliers... | 5a+ | ||||
4 | Du Mou pour le Chat | 5b | ||||
5 | Djett' Djett' Djett' | 5c+ | ||||
6 | ★ Lotantique | 5c | ||||
7 | ★★ Terre de Mousson | 6b | ||||
8 | Asia | 6a+ |
1.10.2. Gavade 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Les Metres du Temps | 6c | ||||
2 | Toit et Moi | 6c | ||||
3 | Bas les Masques | 6b+ | ||||
4 | C100 Traces | 6c | ||||
5 | ★ Gavade | 5c+ | ||||
6 | ★ Entre Toy ...Emoi | 5b+ |
1.10.3. Classes Uniques 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Docteur Es-Taille | 6a | ||||
2 | Les Mille Pattes | 5c+ | ||||
3 | Sangsue Prise | 5c | ||||
4 | Scaphoide a l'Envers | 5c+ | ||||
5 | Vertikinverss' | 5c | ||||
6 | M.Bidouillage | 5b+ | ||||
7 | La Terre Aime le Soleil | 5b | ||||
8 | Couleur Lilas | 5a+ | ||||
9 | Dindon Dina Dit-On... | 5a | ||||
10 | Coeur de Roche | 4c+ | ||||
11 | Classes Uniques | 5a |
1.10.4. Big Bosse 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Zoulou Man | 4a+ | ||||
2 | Tip Top 50 | 4a | ||||
3 | ABC... | 3c | ||||
4 | Force 4 | 3c | ||||
5 | Big Bosse | 5b | ||||
6 | Mademoiselle Columbo | 4a+ | ||||
7 | Bernarre Mattiouze | 4a | ||||
8 | Mini-Mome | 4c+ | ||||
9 | Siry-Lockette | 3b | ||||
10 | Maxi-Mome | 4c+ | ||||
11 | Jeromino | 3c | ||||
12 | Evador | 3c |
1.10.5. Graine de Soleil 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Une Histoire a Dormir Debout... | 3c+ | ||||
2 | Graine de Soleil | 4a | ||||
3 | Tulipes Timides | 5a | ||||
4 | Ca Ralentit | 3c | ||||
5 | Un Poireau Autour du Cou | 3c+ | ||||
6 | On Surveille les Glands | 4a | ||||
7 | Jurassic PACA | 3b+ | ||||
8 | Ha Foif la Meuh! | 3a |
1.11. Point Sublime 93 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.788009, 6.394033
1.11.1. Duc-Encastel 52 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.785510, 6.395559
1.11.1.1. Paroi Du Duc 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.785745, 6.395764
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ I'Ange Rafael, Entre Ombre et Lumiere
Starts after P1 from 'Une Valse pur Manon' to the left | 6a+ | 5 | |||
2 | ★★ Valse Pour Manon | 6c+ | 200m, 6 | |||
3 |
★★ Les enragés
First Verdon route !!! | 6b+ A2 | 300m, 2 | |||
4 |
★★★ Ayahuasca
FA: Pierre Boissier & David Perrier, 2012 | 7c | 300m, 9 | |||
5 |
★★★ Alix, punk de Vergons
FA: L. Catsoyannis. & P. Pezzini, 2004 | 7b | 300m, 10 | |||
6 | ★★★ Une Jolie Fleur dans une Peau de Vache | 8b | 300m, 7 | |||
7 |
★★★ Série Limitée
L6 Des gouttes, encore des gouttes. L7 Grande longeur. L8 Gardez-en ! FA: L. Catsoyannis & P. Pezzini., 2001 | 6c - 7a | 320m, 8 |
1.11.1.2. Dièdre Samson 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
description
The right side of Le Duc.
approach
As for Paroi Du Duc, but head up the fixed ropes up the steep scramble on the right halfway up the approach hill.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Serie Limitèe
6c Obl. Descend by heading up to the summit and over the top. Follow well-worn path and cairns down backside of summit, trending rightwards, and back down spur (opposite the final pitches of Serie Limitèe) to new rap anchors. 5-7 raps (depending on what you link). | 7a | 300m, 8 | |||
2 |
★★ L'Ange Raphaël
6a Obl. FA: 2010 | 6a+ | 180m, 6 | |||
3 | Arbragifle | 6c | 200m, 6 |
1.11.1.3. Encastel 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | L'Encastête | 7b | 200m, 6 |
1.11.1.4. Hulk 35 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.785193, 6.394924
1.11.1.5. Graoubaou 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
summary
A few 2 pitch climbs from a 6a to 8a+ Can be seen from the Point Sublime car park, climbing with an audience!
approach
Walk down the Blank - Martel path. Immediately after the bridge a reasonably hidden path on the right heads up towards the crag. Alternatively and equally hidden path to the crag is located 20m after the bridge on the right. The paths don't seem to get too much traffic and are quite overgrown. You exit via a path from the top of the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Londre d'un DOute
A few dodgy holds at the top. FA: B. Clement, 2014 | 8a | 50m, 2 | |||
2 |
le Bon Gout du Blanc
FA: B. Clement, 2007 | 8a | 50m, 2 | |||
3 |
Qui Mange trop d'Amis Chie Potes
FA: B. Clement, 2007 | 8a+ | 60m | |||
4 |
les Beaux Lots de Jose
FA: 2007 | 6a | 60m | |||
5 |
★★ Mystere et Crotte de Bique
Thought provoking 2nd pitch. Don't stop at the anchor on pitch 1 - continue up onto the ledge there are 2 bolts for an anchor. FA: B. Clement, 2007 | 6a | 60m, 2 | |||
6 |
Ta Meme en Short / Papy pn Short
FA: B.Clement & Zippy, 2007 | 7b | 60m, 2 |
1.11.2. Baume aux Couillons 29 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Relatively new crag, Topo was released in Grimper magazine June 2019
approach
Parking at the couloir samson carpark. Go through the first part of the tunnel and take down the way via ferrata or rappel through the window. Take the zipwire to the other side and climb your way further to the landside (few small jumps necessary) or balance yourself over a big tree; then continue a path up.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Allo pium ici joint | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
2 | Allo Merta ici lence | 8c | 65m, 2 | |||||
3 | Allo nue ici rye | 6b | ||||||
4 | Allo raison ici Steron | 7c+ | ||||||
5 | Allo Péra ici Néma | 6c | ||||||
6 | Allo Stralie ici Dney | 6b+ | ||||||
7 | Allo range ici tron | 6b | ||||||
8 | Allo ween ici trouille | 8a+ | ||||||
9 | Allo pital ici metière | 7c | ||||||
10 | Allo de vie ici rose | 5c | ||||||
11 | Allo rang outan ici miesque | 5c+ | ||||||
12 | ★ Allo de là ici gît | 5b | 10m | |||||
13 | Allo céan ici rène | 7c | ||||||
14 | Allo rizon ici déral | 7a+ | ||||||
15 | ★★ Allo rgeat ici rot | 6c | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Allo bépine ici norhodon | 6a | 18m | |||||
17 | Allo scar ici néma | 6a+ | ||||||
18 | Allo rage ici clone | 6a | ||||||
19 |
★ Unnamed
The easiest route here, starts from the very bottom up a leaning slope | 3c | ||||||
20 | Allo to ici mca1000 | 4c | 12m | |||||
21 | Allo rent ici mone | 5c | 30m | |||||
22 | ★★★ Allo rence ici mon | 5c | ||||||
23 | Allo r rible ici nitre | 6a | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Allo rdure ici vom | 6b | ||||||
Secteur du haut | ||||||||
26 | Pouffe en stock | 9a | ||||||
27 | Allo rgasme ici mutation | 8b | ||||||
28 | Allo paque ici terme | 8a+ | ||||||
29 | Allo ctave ici bémol | 9a | 80m, 2 | |||||
30 | Voyage au coeur du monstre | 8c | 80m, 4 |
1.11.3. Grotte du dragon 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | De kneebars en nichons | 8b | 2 | |||
2 | Progression à tétons | 8b | ||||
3 | Swimming pig | 7c+ | 2 | |||
4 | Vivons cachés, vivons heureux | 7c | ||||
5 | Lustre ucru | 7c+ | ||||
6 | Le flying pig | 8b | ||||
7 | Wolfang Amadeus Mozarella | 8c | ||||
8 | Le piège à prouts | 6a | 12m | |||
9 | L'anti soleil | 5c | 8m | |||
10 | ★★ L'anti UV | 7b | ||||
11 | L'anti nains | 7c | ||||
12 | L'anti grands | 7c+ |
1.12. Tom et Je Ris 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.779347, 6.394915
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Je vous salue Bari | 7c | 130m, 6 | |||
2 |
★★★ Tom et Je Ris
Information on finding the rappel: new and correct gps coordinates should be (43.7803176, 6.3951031). As of spring 2021, follow big hip-height cairns at the end when searching for the rappel chain. There are other possible rappel bolts that are misleading. | 8b+ | 60m |
1.13. Estellié 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 43.742948, 6.338769
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pilier gauche du fauteuil | 6b+ | 250m, 5 | |||
2 | Dièdre de l'oursinade | 6c | 250m | |||
3 | ★★★ Tandem pour une évidence | 6c+ | 250m | |||
4 |
★★★ Petra Aliena
Unterhaltsame, mittelschwere Kletterei, die für den Hochsommer optimal nordseitig ausgerichtet. Set: Pascal Faudou, 2014 | 6b+ | 170m, 6 | |||
5 |
★★★ Arbre magique de rêve / Traumzauberbaum
Very divers climbing. Slabby at the begin and at the end and steep in the middl. The single pitches are: 7a+, 7b+, 7c, 8a, 8a+, 7a Shade almost all day. More information and pictures at: http://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2022/06/verdon-arbre-magique-de-reve.html?m=1 FA: 14 May 2022 | 8a+ | 210m, 6, 70 | |||
6 |
Enigma
Set: Pascal Faudou, 2006 | 7a | 260m, 6 |
1.14. Pillier Mague 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Golden Shower
Set: Stefan Glowacz | 8b+ | 4 | |||
2 |
★★★ Le rateau d'argent
https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/le-verdon/lestellie/le-rateau-dargent/ FA: Ysabelle Pirioux, Alexandre Pierre & Vertical Pirate, 4 Jun 2020 | 7a | 250m, 10, 3 |