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Eycharme

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 12

Seasonality

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D

Access issues inherited from Les Gorges du Verdon

The gorges are the home of a few protected bird species. Some areas may be closed during nesting season.

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: c. Remy & Y. Remy, 1985

FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1982

FA: Robert Milesi & Jean Pierre Hermitte, 2016

1 5b+
2 5a
3 5b+
4 5b

Nice easy four pitch multi that wanders around with predominantly slab climbing with some crack features and traverses involved.

When rappelling in, a single 60m rope will get you to the anchors at top of pitch two, however a short swing to the right will likely be required. If you rappel to the large tree on the ledge you've missed the pitch two anchors.

Look for two single bolts with hangers and a whiteish worn section of rock. Leaving an anchor setup here is ideal if rappelling again from this anchor to the ground. The route starts at ground to the left with a single B scratched into the rock. If linking pitches take lots of extenders, in particular if linking 3 and 4 rope drag can be horrendous.

12 quickdraws if linking pitches, plus anchor gear required, as all anchors are simply two bolted hangers with no connecting hardware.

The route gets full afternoon shade.

FA: O. Dobel-Ober & J.-J. Lombardi, 1994

1 5b+
2 5a
3 5b+
4 6b

Variant finish to Bwana Maline for pitch four. Go direct up from the pitch three anchors.

FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1978

FA: Pascal Faudou, 2007

FA: G. Abert & J. Fabre, 1974

1 5a
2 6a+
3 6c
4 6b
5 6b
6 6a+
7 4

FA: F. Guillot & J.M. Picard-Deyme, 1974

FA: B. Gaschignard & F. Guiliot, 1973

Majeur, puissant, à doigts en bon dévers.

1 6b+
2 6b+
3 6c+
4 7a+
5 6b+
6 7a
7 6b+
8 7a

https://www.escalade-grandesvoies-verdon.com/topo-malice

Set: Alain Jamin & Grégoire Sauget, 2014

FA: Grégoire Sauget, 2003

Classe. L1 colos, L2 trous. Gros dévers.

Classe. L1 colos, L2 trous. Gros dévers.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Adlinger, Olivier Dobel-Ober & Pascal Faudou

Date: 2023

Ce topo est la version numérique, mise à jour et augmentée du guide de référence 52 ans et 520 voies au Verdon de 2017. Il présente une sélection élargie de voies dans les Gorges du Verdon et les parois alentours ainsi que plusieurs falaises sportives de proximité. Vous y trouverez aussi de nombreuses grandes voies récentes et bien équipées dans des niveaux très abordables (<6a). Certaines sont déjà des classiques. Au total le topo présente plus de 400 grandes voies et 20 secteurs de couennes*. Chaque voie est tracée avec précision sur photo et sont précisés le style d’escalade, l’engagement, le matériel à prendre etc… . Les approches sont décrites avec rigueur et s’appuient sur des photos panoramique et/ou des plans. Bref, Escalade au Verdon 2023 est un outil très complet et sûr pour grimper dans les Gorges !

Ce topo est réalisé bénévolement par Simon Adlinger, Olivier Dobel-Ober et Pascal Faudou. Il est édité par le CD FFME Alpes de Hautes Provence.

Author(s): Philippe Légier

Date: 2022

Author(s): Bruno Clément

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9782957691906

A comprehensive guidebook describing all of the rock climbing in the Verdon Valley, covering both single pitch and multi-pitch routes

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 6 Jun
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