Ascents in Neukirchen

Scheißbeschissene Scheiße

Much dangle at first ring. Very aid. Some jumar in the middle part. Soaking wet finish. Good soup.

Another line I want to climb freely in better weather. Only the start was dry, through the roof via a ring bolt and three old bolts (probably old school expansion bolts hammered into tiny drilled holes). To reach the first Bühler bolt (the third bolt of the free line) is the hardest part when aiding the route, due to the longer distance, where you actually need to grab a good pocket, which was fortunately dry. I set up belay below the last overhang, where a book case used to be (I was really disappointed that it was gone, wonder what's happened to it?) to be safe from the rain, which was beginning to get stronger. The stormy wind fortunately didn't touch us. The "second pitch", then, was just a few meters of overhang along the crack (nicely aidable using nuts and cams) to the anchor of the sport route.

3rd go :-P Very hard start

2nd go

After setting my foot earlier, everything went fine.

Ok, quite short.

Nice dihedral, tricky start.

Tricky first moves, after that really pleasant to the top. #lastrouteoftheday

Maybe not the best #warmup Struggled standing up in the middle part and getting to a good hold and fell.

Footwork was better in my first go, but I managed to get through this time. Really nice and juggy roof!

Tricky to solve in the middle, then a rewarding rooflet with jugs.

Hard to read, but pretty cool after all.

Meh. Short and uneventful.

Really good route. I was still weak, and then I got some wrist pain from the side-pull in the crux, so I didn't try again. Should be fine though, will do it next time.

The dihedral was way to painful on my healing sprained ankle, had to abort.

tricky for the grade

2nd go. Short, but very nice.

2nd go

Almost onsighted it, but then I found out the crux is after the last bolt.