A local crag, 20 minute drive from the main city of Crete (Heraklion) with routes of all difficulties and where you can climb any time of the day.
A new and popular crag 14km from Heraklion. A massive circular sinkhole created by a cavern collapse (diameter 90m, depth 15-50m). Year round climbing, different directions so sun or shade all day to find.
A very nice limestone sport crag, Voulismeno Aloni is not too far a drive from Heraklion, has an easy approach (a few hundred meters), and no access fees. It is not crowded in the winter, but I imagine it is busy during spring through fall, given its accessibility and discussions with locals.
A nice variety of bolted routes on generally pleasant, highly featured limestone which is thankfully not as razor sharp as the stuff you might encounter right on the coast. Look out for loose stuff as you approach the rim. A couple of bolt types (ca 2019)... some "standard" 3/8" and some wave-style bolts, sometimes on the same route.
The area is a roughly circular karstic depression surrounded by cliff walls. It was created from the collapse of a large cave. The climbing is roughly divided into two areas - the "lower cliff" NW face and and the "upper cliff" SE face.
There are over 40 established routes. Based on our sampling a 70m rope and about 15 draws will probably get you up most of them, but keep an eye on your middle mark.
If you're traveling the closest place you can rent or buy gear is in Heraklion @ Goufas Mountain Club (Averof 21, Iraklio 712 01, Greece).
Featured in "Greece - Sport Climbing: The Best Of", Aris Theodoropoulos, 2nd edition 2017, ISBN 9789609456210.
Park inside the road bend (35.329449, 25.017143), from where you can already see the crag Voulismeno Aloni across the road (5 min walk).
(35.329549, 25.017312) brings you to a dirt/gravel parking area across the street from a narrow stone-paved driveway.
You can also pull your car into the driveway and park in a dirt pullout (trailhead) about 15m in. Park or walk here and you will see a trail on the right (due east) which brings you into the crag area. Walk east maybe 30 or 40 meters into the bowl. From there you head right for access to the upper cliff area climbs, and left/downhill for access to the lower cliff area climbs.
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Author(s): Bugada
Date: 2009
ISBN: 9782952637817
A selective guidebook describing 6 different rock climbing areas in Crete in the central part of the island, including the crag of Agiofarango, and covering over 250 routes.
Author(s): Bugada
Date: 2009
ISBN: 9782952637817
A selective guidebook describing 6 different rock climbing areas in Crete in the central part of the island, including the crag of Agiofarango, and covering over 250 routes.
6a | ★★★ Koinonia Miden | ||
6a+ | ★★ Working for the Club | ||
6b | ★★★ Golden Girl | ||
6b+ | ★★★ Rosa | ||
6c+ | ★★★ Frankenstein | ||
7b | ★★★ Kaipiraki |
Voulismeno Aloni - 20210929_145309.jpg
Upper Sector - 20210929_145309.jpg
Lower Sector - 20210927_152634.jpg
Voulismeno Aloni - 20210927_152634.jpg
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