description
The classic at the Cima alle coste! It follows a logical, perfect line of cracks and dihedrals. It seams to be the natural extension of the big dihedral between the east and south face but it is a variant of the old route 'Via Steinkotter'. Since the upper part of the 'Via Steinkotter' is not climbed any more, the lower part of this route became the logical and comfortable approach to the 'Martini'.
The lower part (big dihedral) is very well protected with bolts and can be climbed with a minimum of 4 pitches using a 60m rope. The upper part (Martini) is just protected with pitons but can be enhanced with friends and nuts.
Route history
| 1972 | Route setter: S. Martini, M. Tranquillin & M. Protoni |
|---|
Warnings
Location
- Lat/Lon: 45.97989, 10.91183
Grade citation
| 4,5+,4,4,3,1,4,1,5,6+,5+,5+,5+,4 | Assigned grade |
| 4,5+,4,4,3,1,4,1,5,6+,5+,5+,5+,4 | ★★★Kai |
Seasonality
Quality
Overall quality 70 from 5 ratings.
Difficulty - 6+
Based on 3 ratings.
Suggested Grade
Based on 3 ratings.
Tick Types
Comment keywords
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Cristian Dorigatti & Morris Fontanari
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9788855470797
Der erste Boulderführer für das gesamte Trentino, der nicht nur die bekanntesten Gebiete vorstellt, sondern auch viele kleine Paradiese, die der Masse der Kletterer noch unbekannt sind.
Author(s): Florian Kluckner
Date: 2020
Im Kletterführer Arco Plaisir stellt Florian Kluckner 105 lange Plaisirwege vor. Der Großteil der Routen verläuft im 5 Schwierigkeitsgrad - max. Schwierigkeit von 6b+.
Author(s): Graham Fletcher & John Smith
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9781852843809
A selective guidebook describing 77 Via Ferrata routes in the Southern Italian Dolomites, including Brenta and Lake Garda.
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Felix on ★★ Diedro Martini 6+ - Doppelseil-Aktion
Felix on ★★ Diedro Martini 6+ - Traverse
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