Routes in Trentino-Alto Adige for selected grade

Via "plaisir" con spit lungo i tiri e qualche posibilità di integrare che raggiunge la prima grande cengia Castelletto Inferiore

Si percorrono i primi tre tiri della Via normale e poi si devia sulla cengia vestro Est. Superati i tetti si sale verso dei gradoni che tornano verso ovest. Un chiodo visibile alla partenza. Descrizione dei tiri:

1. Traversare verso sinistra alzandosi fino a raggiungere un terrazzino in prossimità dello spigolo, sotto dei tetti gialli. Un chiodo, un nut incastrato. 30m, II

2. In verticale dalla sosta verso lo strapiombino, chiodi visibili. Traversare verso sinistra, delicato. Proseguire in alto fino alla sosta su spuntone. 15m, V+

3. Proseguire in verticale sopra la sosta tenendosi lungo lo spigolo fino alla sosta su terrazzino. 3 chiodi un po' nascosti. 35m, IV+

4. Dalla sosta ancora in verticale verso un diedro fino a una cengia dove si sosta in prossimità dello spigolo. 2 chiodi. 20m, IV

5. Salire lo strapiombino in direzione di una fessura, chiodo visibile. Continuare fino alla cima con arrampicata più facile. Sosta con due fix a terra. 25m, VI-

Via moderna con soste e protezioni a spit, portare qualche nut e friend per integrare. Continua

Via dedicata a Davide Pinamonti, caduto scalando la parete Nord di Punta Massari nel giugno del 2011. Quasi tutte le soste con un chiodo e uno spit, un passaggio in A0 con quattro spit e cordone. Può essere utile una staffa.

Via storica che sale direttamente la parete nord est del Crozzon di Brenta. Rientro lungo e complesso per la via Normale al Crozzon di Brenta e della Cima Tosa

Leftmost route on the upper ledge. Has intermediate anchor.

Bolts and rock tunnels, some frineds and slings are recommended two sequences with VI option to add another pitch with two versions (right: nice groove, left: hard and very alpine bolted groove, but nice climb! Mind the rope drag, use super long slings) http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/linda.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton).

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint.

a mix of bolts and rock tunnels and a few pegs for protection at moderate distances. bring only quickdraws. the last long pitch can be split by building an anchor at a solid tree in case you don't want to deal with too much rope drag.

This is a newer variant of Via Argo. It climbs cleaner and with less vegetation.

Friends necessary

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/spigolo-maxentia-due-laghi/

This route can be perfectly combined with "Variante, Via del Gufetto, Superiore" A set of friends and nuts is highly recommended. Topos can be found here: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-del-gufetto-parete-dell-ir/ (German) or https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-del-gufetto.html (Italian)

https://verticalage.blogspot.com/2018/01/val-di-ledro-nuova-via-alla-regina-del.html?m=1

Utile qualche kevlar e frend per integrare http://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=1586&id_tipologia=38

Another TOPO at https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/der-koenig-des-sees-il-re-del-lago/

Starts left of Via Caino e Abele and crosses this route after the first pitch. Relatively "green&brown" route but the rock parts are still nice to climb. The difficult parts are very well protected with bolts.

classic chimney with old bolts

Parte a destra del secondo tiro della via l’Anno del ragno, con la quale condivide l’ultimo tiro. Attrezzatura da verificare.

https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/alpinklettern/suedtirols-sueden/sarner-scharte-zur-erinnerung-an-ochar-sepp-aka-scoiattolo-/37819502/#dmdtab=oax-tab1

An old, little-known alpine quest up Gantkofel/Macaion, potentially unrepeated since 1989.

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sassdaputia1/sassdaputia1.htm https://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/VIE_FUTURE/ODLE/relazione_spigolo_nord_putia.html

In data 10/09/23 migliorate soste soste integrato protezioni

9 SL 435m + 2 SL 150m zum Gipfel

https://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=303&id_tipologia=38

http://quartogrado.com/volume2_1/relazioni/LAGAZUOI_Maurizio%20Speciale.htm

https://www.casa-alfredino.co.uk/alpine-climbing/m-speciale-piccolo-lagozuoi-vi/

5 obl.

Old trad route left of The Wall. Through the crack between the towers (?). Through a crack (5) and a chimney (4,5) and further to the top (4+).

https://www.albertodegiuli.com/home/alberee/public_html/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/TheWall_Falzarego.pdf

https://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/VIE_FUTURE/FANIS/tracciato_piccola_falzarego_comici.html

https://www.esercito.difesa.it/comunicazione/pagine/falzarego_140708.aspx

A good, honest "sport route" in the dolomites. Fun climbing at the grade, very consistent 5a/b climbing with occasional tricky moves. Pretty runout at times, bolts are more "anti-death" than "anti-falling". Can be supplemented with .5-3 cams and some nuts.

Be careful on the white rock! Plenty of crumble struggling to free itself and try out gravity for style.

-more info to come-

8.

Descent: from the final belay, abseil 10m to the ridgeline. Scramble across (belay recommended) to the col of the pollice, and descend via the "Via Normale della Pollice".

Alternative descent: abseiling the route is possible, 2x 60m ropes recommended. To cross traverse pitch (p4), abseil from the top of p7 to make pendulum easier. Just go down

After passing the Lokomotiv, go along the southwest wall of the First Tower until you reach a recess, with pillars on the right and left. The route runs along the evident dihedral slightly inclined to the right.

1. Scramble up slightly loose rock to the base of the prominent Trenker Crack. Anchor on pitons, to the left of the crack immediately after the small vertical section. (30m, III)

2. Climb the slightly right-trending crack. Before the crack becomes vertical, traverse 2-3 to the right to a small ledge with the anchor (1 big glue-in bolt). (35 m, IV-)

3. Climb over the easy overhang above the belay, then slightly left to the dihedral. Follow the dihedral, past a steeper polished section protected by a bolt, until you reach a good belay on a ledge. (1 bent glue-in bolt + 2 pitons). (35m, V+)

4. Follow the dihedral up, to the right of the small column, following the slightly polished crack. Continue until the next belay (1 glue-in bolt). (35m, III+) 1 piton.

5. 2 options for this pitch:

a) Head up a couple of metres before leaving the crack and traversing diagonally right up an easy slab to a large ledge. Anchor on two glue-in bolts in the middle of the ledge.

b) Continue up the crack to the top before stepping out right on the ledge, belay on two pitons, OR belay on the right of this directly under the chimney of the final pitch (2 glue-in bolts). (25m, IV-)

1. Traverse another 2-3 meters to the right on the ledge, then follow the yellowish rocks up the chimney to the top. From here, via easy rocks, exit onto the wide ridge that leads to the top of the tower and the anchor (1 glue-in bolt). (30m, IV-) 2 pitons

2. Optional to reach summit: Follow the path to the left to reach the summit of the 1st Sella Tower. (40m, I)

Descent:

a) Abseil from summit: To the right of the saddle between 1st/2nd towers, follow the ridge ~30m to an abseil (40m).

OR

b) Descent by the "Via Normale" From the summit, follow the obvious path that leads to the saddle between the First and Second Sella Towers, then continue around the 2nd Tower, following the rock piles/cairns.

At a crossroads, take the path that turns right down the steep gully towards the valley. There are points where downhill climbing is required, never higher than II.

Here, the abseil and the Via Normale join up again. Shortly before the base of the wall, the trail separates to the left and right. To the right, there are two abseil anchors (top 35m, bottom 25m). To the left there is a downclimb (grade II).

Once at the base, follow the path to the right to return to the parking lot.

Beautiful climb in sound rock, some pitons in the route. It starts in the center of the north face.

https://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/TORRI_SELLA/VIA_MESSNER/schizzovia_messner.html

Takes a line up the centre of the 3rd Tower with a steep crack leading to the crux overhang above the big ledge at 2/3 height.

6-,5,5,6-,5,4+,5,4-