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Settore F

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 160
  • Aka: Il Pueblo

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Valle del Sarca

Many crags in the area of Arco are located on private land and the huge popularity of climbing and the resulting crowds brought it with it, that issues with land owners popped up in the past and continue to pop up from time to time. Please be sensitive to regional closures and limitations to access. Stay informed and stick to local regulations.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts on the right side of the cave, enters it and exits in the center.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP9ZOuJB7X0

Depending on the climber the grading varies between 8c+ and 9a. It was initially graded 8c+ by Manfred Stuffer, but in 2000, Yuji Hirayama suggested 8c+/9a. In 2002, Tomas Mrazek and Christian Bindhammer suggested 9a. Alex Megos suggested a downgrade in 2020 after he flashed it back to 8c+ or 8c+/9a.

Set: Gerhard Hörhager

FA: Manfred Stuffer, 1998

FFA: Yuji Hirayama, 2000

Pure Dreaming with start on Underground.

FFA: Adam Ondra, 24 Feb 2018

Underground combined with Armagedon.

Without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it).

FFA: Adam Ondra, 4 Sep 2020

Variant of "Reini's Vibos".

FA: Adam Ondra, 25 Feb 2018

Reini's Vibes combined with La Pietra Murata.

Starts on "Reini's Vibes", climbs through "Pietramurata", downclimb boulder with hard heel hook and finger lock.

FA: Eric Albertini

FA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 12 Dec 2016

Underground combined with Thunder Ribes

FA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 19 Dec 2016

Underground combined with Reini's Vibes.

FA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 8 Mar 2015

FA: Eric Albertini, Oct 2018

Same start as Shaved Beaver but branches out right.

Same start as Twingo and Katha Martina but goes up straight.

Same start as Flytrap and Katha Martina but first variant up right.

Same start as Twingo and Flytrap but goes up on the far right.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Cristian Dorigatti & Morris Fontanari

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9788855470797

A comprehensive guidebook describing a wide range of bouldering from the Sarca valley to the heart of the Dolomites, covering 1,000’s of boulder problems at 45 crags in 8 main areas

Author(s): Florian Kluckner

Date: 2020

Author(s): Graham Fletcher & John Smith

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9781852843809

A selective guidebook describing 77 Via Ferrata routes in the Southern Italian Dolomites, including Brenta and Lake Garda.

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Wed 17 May
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