A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
benwiessner Gavin Anna Gre Nicola Clementel Kai Daniel Stoelzner Robert Buschlinger Barbara Zangerl Jiří Železný Philipp Geisler
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Cadarese
110 in Crag
- 1.1. Lower 24 in Sector
- 1.2. Central 12 in Sector
- 1.3. Upper 30 in Sector
- 1.4. Crack Party / Bimbiminkia / Trad 39 in Sector
- 1.5. Boulder 5 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Cadarese 110 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 46.291881, 8.366595
summary
Splitter granite cracks found in a beautiful mountain valley. Both bolted and clean climbs are in equal proportion.
description
Cadarese is one of the larger crack climbing venues in central Europe. More than 50 cracks can be found from 4a - 9a (including a contender for the worlds hardest trad climb). Many of the cracks here are bolted, allowing those without trad gear (or skills) to try routes which would normally always be climbed traditionally.
approach
Cadarese is accessed by car from northern Italy, following north from Domodossola. Get any supplies you need here as this is the closest supermarket. Once you pass Domodossola continue further North and enter the Val Formazza and up to the small town of Cadarese.
As you enter Cadarese, you will see the thermal baths, and across from this a bridge across the river. Parking for the crag is across the bridge in a small car park.
From the car park follow down the road to your right (looking at the crag) and follow an obvious path past a couple of old stone houses. The path up to the crag starts near the base of a large obvious boulder.
The path ascends steeply through the wood. It takes 5min to the lower sector and 10min to the central sector. Another 10min are needed for the upper sectors or the sector Crack Party.
For a detailed description on how to reach Cadarese by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.
where to stay
Accomodation can be found in Domodossola, or the larger cities further south. Wild camping, whilst officially illegal in all of Italy has been tolerated at some times near the crag in the picnic area. If camping make sure to be clean, quiet, pitch late and follow leave no trace ethics.
ethic
Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb.
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1.1. Lower 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 46.292859, 8.365438
description
The lower area comprises the first few cliffs you encounter as you walk up the path. Some easier trad lines are followed by a mixed sector accessed by a fixed rope.
approach
The first two sectors you will find as you go up the path.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Tribe
Grade is not confirmed! Dedicated to Peter Mair. As described by Jacopo Larcher: So, basically, there is a first section which is kind of vertical—way easier than the rest of the route, it’s probably 5.12- or something like that. But it’s quite precarious. It doesn’t take a lot of gear; only two pieces in the first 15 meters, one nut and one cam. These pieces are good, it’s just that the first one is quite high up. So this first part isn’t super hard, but just technical climbing where it’s easy to make a mistake that would be bad. Then you reach a no-hands rest below a roof, where the first crux is. You get some really good gear in a crack there, and from there on the route is quite safe. The first crux is after this roof and is’ compression climbing with a dynamic move to reach a slopey crack. The fall there is safe— if you don’t stick the last hard move, you fall with the rope behind your leg, but it’s still ok—I took this fall a few times. Next, in the slopey horizontal crack you place the last two pieces before the upper crux. At this point you are on the left of the arete and then you climb to the right to a small rest. Then there is the last hard boulder problem. You get this really bad right hand pinch, and you bring your foot super high onto this slopey foot hold. And from there you have to get this kind of two-finger pinch slot, before finally bumping to a good hold. After that you place a ball nut and then you just have one weird move to get to a ledge— another hands rest, you can lay down. Above that there is still a 10-meter 5.12 crack to the top, which is all normal crack climbing with good gear. At first I wanted to make the route end at the ledge, because a different line finished on that crack and there were bolts on the crack. But the guy who had opened that climb chopped the bolts so that I could finish my line to the top. Set: Jacopo Larcher, 2013 FFA: Jacopo Larcher, 21 Mar 2019 | 9a | 25m | |||||
2 | Scorpion | 7b | 20m | |||||
3 | Beta block super | 7c | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Lo smidollato
Name written at bottom. Starting under a small roof, traverse right to start the route proper. Follow this up and a bit left on the obvious line of bolts and finish direct through small ledges. | 6a | 20m | |||||
5 | ★ Lo smidollato Trad | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
6 | ★ Cannibal | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
7 | ★★★ Hannibal | 7a | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Sangue e magnesite
The obvious hand sized corner crack. A beautiful line, after which you finish up to the left. A delicate move above the final ledge guards the end, be careful here. | 6c | 20m | |||||
9 | ★★ Big Jim | 6c | 20m | |||||
10 | E chi la castiga | 7c | 20m | |||||
11 |
★ Green rat
the finger crack in the centre of the wall. | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
12 | Mariposa | 7a | 20m | |||||
13 | Mariposa variation | 6c | 20m | |||||
14 | ★ Barulussa | 7a | 20m | |||||
15 | Gli spalloni | |||||||
16 | Occhi di Giada | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
17 |
★ Corner Glove
FA: R. Vigiani | 5b | ||||||
18 |
★★ Purosangue
FA: R. Vigiani | 5b | ||||||
19 |
★★ No Name
Slabby finger crack left from the chimney/crack | 6a | 20m | |||||
20 |
★★★ No Name II
Crack/chimney | 5c | 20m | |||||
21 |
★★ No Name III
Crack with a lot of jams | 6a | 20m | |||||
22 |
★★★ No Name IV
Crack with laybacks. Starts with „No Name III“, then go right | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
23 | ★★ Indiana Jones | 5b | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Besentanz / Ballo Della Scopa
Follow the ledge of the sector until the very end to access the route. It's a long access to the 7a but it's an incredible line really worth a go! Take a standard (double) rack Cam #0.1-#2 with focus on the small cams and a few small nuts.
Set: Markus Lipp, Sep 2022 FFA: David, 31 May 2023 | 7a | 55m, 2 | |||||
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1.2. Central 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.292862, 8.365824
description
A group of searing crack lines defines the central area.
approach
Another 5 min up the path from the lower sector, you cant miss it.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Rockwald | 7a | 25m | |||||
2 | ★ Lustra Rock | 6b+ | 30m | |||||
3 | ★★ Nuova Scommessa | 6b+ | 30m | |||||
4 |
Sandrix
Squeezed in between Nuova Scommessa and Classica. | 6b+ | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Classica
The difficulties at the initial rooflet can be solved a few ways... typically the more comfortable you are with getting in the crack/chimney, the easier it will go! | 6b | 30m | |||||
6 | ★★★ Edera | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
7 | ★★★ c'era una volta | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
8 | ★★ Grazie Ricky | 8a | 30m | |||||
9 | ★★ Beslan memorial | 7c+ | 30m | |||||
10 | Subsonica | 6c | 100m, 4 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | Arrivano I Loacker | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
12 | ★★★ Crack a gogo | 6c+ | 20m |
1.3. Upper 30 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.293315, 8.366259
description
The upper sector has another mix of great trad and sport cracks to explore.
approach
A further 5 min up from the obvious central sector.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Upper AlcovePast the main Upper sector is an alcove containing a small collection of routes. | ||||||||
2 | Orazio Furioso | 7b+ | 35m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★ Megera Crack
Start up the corner before gaining the hand crack on the right wall, then climb the blocky section above. Worth the walk, even though there is a little questionable rock, and it can be dirty due to runoff. Take cams up to #4. | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
4 | Muschio Selvaggio | 6c | ||||||
Main Wall Upper TierThis sector has a red rope to help with the exposed traverse along its base. | ||||||||
6 | Attenti al Buco | 6c | 25m | |||||
7 | ★ Attenti al Buco Trad | 6c | 25m | |||||
8 | Imbuto Crack | 7a | 20m | |||||
9 | ★★★ Imbuto Crack Trad | 7a | 20m | |||||
10 | ★★ Fessura Fallica | 7b | 35m, 2 | |||||
11 |
★★ Fessura Fallica Trad
first pitch | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
12 | Sdulferando | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
13 | ★★★ Sdulferando Trad | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 | ★★★ Foglie Cadenti | 7b+ | 35m, 2 | |||||
15 | ★★★ The Doors | 8a | 35m | |||||
16 | Senza Nome | 6a | ||||||
17 |
Falce e martello
L1 7c 25m; L2 7b 15m | 7c | ||||||
18 | ??? | 6a | 15m | |||||
19 |
Chimney
no protection | 4a | 15m | |||||
Main Wall Lower Tier | ||||||||
21 | ★★ Perturbata | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
22 | Corta ma facile | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
23 | Corta ma cattiva | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
24 | ★ Corta ma carina | 6b | 15m | |||||
25 | Soft Grit | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
26 | Porcini a gogo | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Terra di mezzoRoutes scattered on the approach up the hill towards the Upper Sector main wall. | ||||||||
28 | ★★ Black Dihedral | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
29 | ?? | 7b | 15m | |||||
30 | ★ Monster Spatz | 6a | 8m | |||||
31 | Gold Spatz | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
32 |
★★ Petit Prince
Warning Rock: Flake moving | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
33 | Spazzocamino | 6b | 25m | |||||
34 | Changing Corners | 8a |
1.4. Crack Party 39 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Crack party is a trad only area, accessed by ropes up from the right of the central area.
approach
Traverse right across the base of the Central Area (passing under the boulder from which 'Crack a gogo' starts).
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lower Tier | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Quereinsteiger
From "21°" follow the ledge to the left until the end to a bolt. The big crack in the corner can be protected with Cam #5 Set: Markus Lipp, May 2023 | 5c | ||||||
3 |
★★ 21°
The right leaning finger crack on the slabby wall (it's leaning forward 21°) just before the staircase leading to "Lo sceriffo di cada". Follow the finger crack until the end and than change into the well protected dihedral. Set: Markus Lipp, 26 May 2023 | 6c | 4 | |||||
4 |
★★ Lo sceriffo di Cada
The path ascends via some steps cut into stone, then a staircase. 'Lo sceriffo di Cada' starts at the top of these stairs. | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
5 |
?
left of 'Mission Gin Lemon' | 25m | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Mission Gin Lemon | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
7 |
★★ Non Parlo Inglese
right of 'Mission Gin Lemon' - right leaning crack and same face finish as 'Senza Nome' | 6a+ | 22m | |||||
8 |
★ Senza Nome
right of 'Mission Gin Lemon' - dihedral and face | 5c | 20m | |||||
9 | ★★ Scarpadetennis / Scarpedetennis | 5c | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 | ★★★ Mustang | 8a | 20m | |||||
11 | ★★★ Un pomeriggio da leoni | 6c | 20m | |||||
12 | ★ Facile me larga | 6a | 20m | |||||
13 |
★★ Facile me larga
You need two Cams size 6 for the last part | 6a | 20m | |||||
14 | ★★★ Django | 7b+ | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 | ★★ Ciao | 5b | 10m | |||||
Upper Tier | ||||||||
17 | ★★ L`amours toujours | 6c | 25m | |||||
18 | Signorina Fettembourg | 7a | 20m | |||||
19 | Mirabelle | 6c | 25m | |||||
20 | XXL | 7a | 25m | |||||
21 |
★★★ Turkey Crack
A burly offwidth that cuts across a steep roof above the middle tier of Cadarese. FFA: Sean Villanueva, 2010 | 8a | 25m | |||||
22 | Camino vigiani | 5b+ | 25m | |||||
23 | Formiche | 6b | 25m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
24 |
★★★ Bookcake
FFA: Nico Favresse Set: Andrea Sommaruga | 7c+ | 25m | |||||
25 | ★★★ La Freccia | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
26 | Riscaldamente | 7a | 25m | |||||
27 |
★★★ Larco
Curving crack that links to the finish of 'La Freccia'. | 6b | 30m | |||||
28 | Stretta ma difficile | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
29 | Cerutti gino | 6a | 25m | |||||
30 | Bon ton | 6b | 25m | |||||
31 | Sgrufola | 5b | ||||||
32 | Pin Feggio | 7b | ||||||
33 | ★ Tazio Patio e Lepronino | 6a | ||||||
34 | ★★ Nn1 | 6a | 12m | |||||
35 |
★★ Nn2
Cam 1 and 2 are really useful | 5c | 12m | |||||
36 | Nn3 | 5b | ||||||
37 | ★★ Nn4 | 6a | ||||||
38 | ★★ Nn5 | 6a | 15m | |||||
39 |
★★ Nn6
After the slab, take best a Cam Nr. 0.3, 3 and 4 with you. There could also be used a sling around a jammed rock instead of the Nr. 4. | 6a+ | 15m, 3 | |||||
40 | Bimbominkia | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
41 |
Jeune et con
The route follows the striking arete about 100 meters to the right of "Bookcake". Not yet graded but rated RX! FFA: Jacopo Larcher, Apr 2022 |
1.5. Boulder 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 46.292007, 8.364993
summary
Lonely boulder before walking to the trad/sport area.
description
No information on this boulder so I made up the grades and lines, but it's definitely been done before.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | ★★ 1 | 4 | 2m | |||||
2 | ★★ 2 | 4+ | 3m | |||||
3 | ★★ 3 | 5 | 3m | |||||
4 | ★★ 4 | 5+ | 4m | |||||
5 | 5 | 6A+ | 4m |