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1 4c
2 5c
3 5b

description

Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum.

No belays are bolted.

P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor.

P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor.

P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m).

Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted

Route history

23 Oct 1986First ascent: Wilfried Colonna & G. Claye

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 29.57868, 35.41090

Grade citation

4c,5c,5b Assigned grade
Alix Buck
Ali Hasan
5+ Ashley Moore

ethic

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

inherited from Wadi Rum

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67 from 5 ratings.

Difficulty - 5c

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

5c

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 6
Tick 7

Comment keywords

great

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

This digital guidebook presents a selection of 26 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. Almost all of the routes presented are trad.  Of course, this style of climbing on trad gear requires us to be modest about route choices, but do not fear, the rock lends itself well to gear placements, especially along its beautiful, long crack systems. Other equally interesting routes, more in a mountaineering style, focus on route-finding rather than pure difficulty. These follow more or less along the lines of the famous Bedouin routes. These ‘extreme adventure treks’ discovered by the locals are the most aesthetic way, and undoubtedly the only true way, to explore the area. Some climbing routes included in this selection use Bedouin routes as descents, and two Bedouin routes that ascend to the summit of Jebel Rum are described in detail. Trad 6a/6b grade is required and a good crack climbing experience Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.

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Mon 12 Jun
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