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Theos Cave All Sport climbing 28 routes in sector

28
FR
6a6b6c7a7b7c8a

Seasonality

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A
M
J
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Description

Sun until 5.30PM when the shade of Theos Pillar comes in.

Approach

From Leonidio, take the main road towards the coast. After 2 km, park on the right side, opposite of a dirt road branching off left with signs to the various sectors (37.1683, 22.8863).

Walk up the dirt road. Before the house, turn left and hike up the steep creek bed along the fence. At the end of the fence, step out and turn right, following the trail along the upper side of the fence. On the next corner of the fence, the trail splits. Take the lower branch towards Theos. After passing some old stone walls, walk up around the corner, passing Theos Pillar on your left. Continue on the steep trail for another 3min, then scramble up some boulders on your left to the belay ledge below the cave.

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Guidebooks

Routes

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1
6c+ ★★ Cyclops Pillar Sport 35m, 15

Set: Michel Piola, 2018

2
6c ★★ Geneve Cayenne Sport 30m, 13

Set: Michel Piola, 2018

3
6c ★★ The Place to Be Sport 30m, 12

Set: Michel Piola, 2018

4
6a+ ★ 21 Grammes Sport 20m, 8

Set: Michel Piola, 2018

5
6c ★★ 21 Grammes Ext Sport 30m, 15

Set: Michel Piola, 2018

6
6a+ ★ 25° Sport 19m, 7

A reachy move over the grey bulge at the start, then easier tufa climbing.

Set: Remy & partners, 2016

7
6a Sun Max Sport 18m, 7

Set: Remy & partners, 2016

8
6a - b ★ Nora Sport 18m, 10

8a.nu consensus 6a/b.

Set: Remy & partners, 2016

9
6a+ ★★ Partouza Sport 18m, 8

Short but very worthwhile route on excellent rock. Good holds and tufas all the way to the top.

Set: Remy & partners, 2016

10
7b Partouza Ext Sport 25m

Set: 2020

11
6c ★★ Dali Sport 23m, 10

A low crux on slopy holds leads up to pleasant climbing on good holds Land a small roof to finish things off. Stay on the right line of bolts before the roof.

Shares the roof and anchors with 'Rainmen'.

Set: Remy & partners, 2016

12
7b+ Dali'n da Roof Sport 35m

Extension of 'Dali'. Before moving right towards the anchors of 'Dali' and 'Rainmen', continue straight up through the mini-roof.

Set: 2020

13
7a ★★ Rainmen Sport 23m

Shares the final roof and anchors with 'Dali'.

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Fl. Friedrich, 10 Feb 2018

14
7a ★★★ Psili Makilopardali Sport 32m, 18

Set: Remy & partners, 2016

15
7b+ ★★★ Les Chevaliers du Fiel Sport 40m, 17

Set: Michel Piola, 2018

16
7c ★★★ Centepede Sport 35m, 13

Set: Micha Schreiber, 2018

17
7c+ ★★★ Mise en Place Sport 35m, 15

Set: Micha Schreiber, 2018

18
8a Xibalba Sport 35m

Mistakenly called 'Hlios' and confused with 'Sturmvogel' in the climbgreece guidebook.

Set: 2019

19
7b ★★★ Roky Erickson Sport 20m, 8

Great line on big but spaced holds. Powerful and steep.

Set: 2019

20
7c ★★★ Roky Erickson Ext Sport 35m

Set: 2019

21
6c+ ★★★ Zeus Sport 20m, 10

Set: Remy & partners, 2016

22
7b+ ★★ Zeus Ext Sport 30m, 18

Set: Remy & partners, 2016

23
7b+ ★★★ Leichen im Keller / Rien N'est Reservé Içi Sport 30m, 13

Stiff start on tufa pipes, easier middle section and a boulder problem with some long moves in the final overhang. Great varied line!

The actual name written on the wall is 'Leichen im Keller', though the climbgreece guidebook calls it 'Rien N'est Reservé Içi'. Originally graded 7c, downgraded in the latest guidebook (Panjika, 2021).

Set: 2019

24
7b ★★★ Copied from our Guidebook Sport 25m

Mistakenly called 'Tortoise' in the climbgreece guidebook.

Set: 2020

25
7c+ ★★★ Turtle Sport 20m, 10

Set: Michel Piola, 2018

26
7c+ Sonne im Herzen Sport 25m

Confused with 'Sturmvogel' in the climbgreece guidebook.

Set: 2019

27
7c+ ★ Stolperstein Sport 30m

Called 'Secret Pink Flamingos Soc.' (7c+) in the climbgreece guidebook.

Set: 2020

28
7b+ Sturmvogel Sport 25m

Mistakenly called 'Xibalba' in the climbgreece guidebook.

Set: 2019

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Leonidio Rock Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): Pánjika Cooperative

Date: 2023

Klettermekka auf den Peloponnes - Der Panjika Leonidio und Kyparissi Kletterführer geht in die Verlängerung mit einer upgedateten 2023er Version. Im neuen Kletterführer sind jetzt 2655 Einseillängen- und 40 Mehrseillängenwege verteilt auf 95 Sektoren beschrieben.

Buy
ⓘ
Leonidio and Kyparissi Sport Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): Aris Theodoropoulos and Katie Roussos

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9786180025026

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the sport climbing at Leonidio, Kyparissi, Agios Petros and Agios Andreas, covering over 2,000 routes

Buy
ⓘ

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6a+ ★★ Partouza
6c ★★ Dali
6c+ ★★★ Zeus
7a ★★★ Psili Makilopardali
7b ★★★ Roky Erickson
7b+ ★★★ Les Chevaliers du Fiel
7c ★★★ Centepede

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★★★ Turtle 7c+ - IMG_20191009_164225.jpg

on ★★★ Zeus 6c+ - PXL_20220105_095757536~2.jpg

on ★★★ Zeus 6c+ - theos_cave.jpg

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