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Joya del Metate

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 23

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Description

Es una zona no muy grande pero con rutas muy buenas, poco desplomada con tufas.

Metate is a slightly overhanging limestone wall located just behind Jero’s house. The climbing here is on pockets, tufas, crimps, and pinches. This is a great place to go if you are looking for a crag close to the road with no sun. It stays cool all day and is a very peaceful area.

Approach

From the entrance to Guadalcázar, drive out of town towards the highway and follow the signs up to the town of El Realejo. The turn off is marked by a small red building (bus stop) with signs displaying the caves. Drive up this road as it winds up the mountain. Follow it straight until you reach a small town with a school on your right. Shortly after the road turns to dirt. Take the first right at the bottom of a small hill. You will drive past the site of Joya del Salitre. Follow this road staying on the main road until the road turns rocky and steep. Head right and follow it to a house on your left. Park here next to the house and walk along the stone fence along the edge of a small lake. Follow the edge until a trail branches left up a small hill. Walk up the small hill and Metate will be on your left. Walk along the edge until you find a small trail leading down into the hole.

Ethic inherited from Guadalcázar

Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times.

When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: W. Ramirez & Paco Peña

Vertical pocket climbing leads to steep climbing through pockets and jugs.

FA: W. Ramirez & Paco Peña

A dirty start leads to a technical head wall with a cool tufa that leads to nice ledge. A final crux through a crack leads to the anchors.

An easy start leads to a hard three move long boulder problem to a 5.12 finish. With two sit down rests, how hard could it be?

FA: Urs Moosmüller & christian ehlert

A great start on tufas leads to a boulder problem through a bulge then jugs lead to a ledge. From here power through the crux boulder problem to the anchors.

A steep technical arete leads to the finish on Amidamero. Really fun steep tufa climbing through the first part of the arete.

An easy start leads to steep crack climbing to a ledge. Finish with a final boulder problem on a smaller crack.

FA: W. Ramirez

Flakes and pockets lead up the natural weakness through the wall.

FA: Conero

A bouldery start leads to sustained climbing to the anchors.

FA: Conero

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Fri 2 Jun
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