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Peña de Bernal

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Summary

In the town of Bernal, not far from the city of Queretaro in the state of Queretaro, lies the third largest monolith in the world: the Pena de Bernal and its surrounding metamorphic boulders.

Description

Located at the "Pueblo Magico" of Bernal. It is about 45 minutes from the city of Queretaro, and about 2.5 hours from Mexico City.

Originally known to rock climbers for its multipitch routes on the Pena, now it is more popular due to the great bouldering.

Climbing can be done year-round owing to its semi-desertic climate, although given the abundance of sunlight in all faces except the north face of the Pena, multipitching is best avoided in the months of May-September (overcast days are OK, though). Sport climbing can be done year round in the adjacent crags. Best conditions can be found in the winter months of December and January (also the driest), but even in the hottest months of April and May shade and wind can be found throughout the day in the boulders and sport climbs. June and July are the wettest months, although even then (July), it only rains around 12 mm.

The rock type is metamorphic: very solid, forming similar features to sandstone, but less rough. The style varies from slopey and overhanging to technical crimpy slabs.

Some boulders can be tall and the landings irregular, so bringing 2+ pads is advisable.

When multipitching (usually sport bolted), it is good to remember that the routes at the Pena are old school and are sparcely bolted, but the quality of the multipitches is supreme and the grades moderate.

Care must be taken not only not to damage the local flora and fauna, but also to beware of it. This is because much of the flora has thorns in it (e.g. prickly pears), and the fauna includes rattlesnakes, coralillos, and kissing bugs. Therefore, watch your step and in the hot season, always apply and carry insect repellent.

As for garbage and toilet issues when bouldering/sport climbing, always carry out what you carry in. Alternatively, there are toilets in the (very) nearby Rancho Chichi'Dho (see "Where to Stay"). Before going multipitching you can use the toilets at the base. Remember they usually charge a small fee, though!

Always bring plenty of water (especially when multipitching) or purchase it from town.

Plenty to do on rest days, ranging from doing a wine and cheese tour to visiting the beautiful adjacent townships, to just chilling in the Rancho Chichi'Dho.

For more information and topos, purchase the Bernal guidebook from Vertimania, Memento Climbing Gym, or Bloc-E Climbing Gym in Mexico City or the climbing gym in Queretaro.

Access issues

Note: as of 2024, climbing on the south wall (public-entry side) is entirely prohibited.

As such, the only climbing accessible at Peña de Bernal is via Rancho Chichi'dho, who charge 100p/person/day for access (if you aren't staying on their premises). To register, sign up the day before via their website and you will receive an access code to the locked gate.

Where to stay

The most popular choice for climbers is to stay/camp at the Rancho Chichi'Dho. To get to the Rancho Chichi'Dho, follow highway 100 out of Bernal towards San Pablo. About 3-5 minutes later you should see some small white arches on your left next to a sign that says "La Tortuga". Turn left there. Follow the road down until you reach a T-junction, and turn right there. After that, go along the dirt road following the signs that say "La Tortuga" and subsequently the ones that say "Chichi'Dho". GPS coordinates for the start of the dirt road : N 20.764748, -99.939389.

The cost to camp is 250 MXN per person, which includes access to the climbing area.

However, there are also a wealth of options for accomodation in the Bernal township.

Ethic

No chipping, erase tick marks after using them, bring out what you bring in, do not bring misbehaved dogs/pets, do not destroy local flora/fauna, do not play loud music, and be kind and respectful to the locals.

History

History timeline chart

Located in Otomi and Chichimeca territory, this feature has been sacred for thousands of years. Its original name is De'Hendo ("in between two").

The township was founded in 1642 and named Bernal (a word of Arabic origin meaning "large rock feature") or Concepcion de Bernal. It was originally a Spanish mining town with a convent. This convent was under constant Chichimeca attack until a batallion was brought to fortify the town, which subsequently grew and was re-named San Sebastian Bernal.

Now tourism is the main industry, although quartz is abundantly sold here.

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Tue 6 Jun
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